(Topic ID: 132130)
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Westerville, OH
Built mine from pipe described here:
http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/how-to-build-your-own-playfield-rotisserie.161/
One tip, get pipe without the greasy coating.
Bud 
8 months later
3 weeks later
Quoted from Stretch7:Has anyone here built a rotisserie for cabinets?....would love to see some ideas for this as it seems like a great way to lay/paint stencils and clear.
Like this, plate on front and metal stand offs on back side to separate the stand from the work piece.
Bud
Quoted from packie1:Show the back on that thing! Need to see what you are referring to.
Mike
I guess that would help. 
Bud
Leg Off (resized).JPGJust a modification on the idea of cabinet corner protectors to protect the machine when moving and in storage.
I installed these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6KTPSW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1
on my current project in hopes of saving the next guy that restores this (in 20 years) from some of the corner repairs I had to do.
These are covered up by the legs so really no down side I could see. ($1.35 each corner)
I spent way more than that on that damn epoxy and sand paper.
Bud
Quoted from Budwin:Spent a lot of time repairing corners.
Anyone used trunk/speaker box corner protectors on the head?
Seems like a way to avoid corner damage in the future.
Comments - Ideas?
Bud
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I can see no reason this Shouldn’t be standard practice! Maybe it’s a little questionable on the back box but ... man we should have been doing this for years
I wish Stern, JJP, Spooky, Dutch, Riot and all other manufacturers would integrate this inexpensive feature to their designs.
If we never moved these machines around we would not need these corners protected, but we do move them a lot.........
Too much investment in these pins not to take simple measures to keep them nice.
If you protect corners on steamer trunks, amps, and speakers why not pins?
2 months later
Oh, I pulled those plastic ones off a new Stern.
You can get the metal equivalent from Pinball Life.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711
Bud
1 month later
Quoted from manples:Cabinet clear coat advice please Just painted my Bally Space Time (1972). Very happy with the result.
The thing is I'd like to clear it but I've read many different things and can't decide what to use: 2k semi-gloss, oil-based satin clear varnish, JC661 High Gloss Multi-Panel Clear with an additive, I've also been told Minwax Polycrylic, etc.
The main goal is to protect the paint job from scratches and UV yellowing with a good authentic look.
What do the pros recommend?
Here is a picture of a 1972 Jungle where I used the same type spray as you used, then I brushed on two coats of Minwax Polycrylic.
I liked the semi-gloss look on that one, not sure how authentic the look is since I was just 10 back then. 
Bud
11 months later
Not an expert, but my cab had the same particle board rot there.
I scraped out all the weakened material and built a form fronted with wax paper. (as Vid has already described)
Then I filled that up with Bondo fiber reinforced filler. (it took about 2/3 of a can to fill it)
Bondo Fiber (resized).JPG
That stuff is green while wet, but drys dark brown.
It looks and sands like wood when dry. (really a lot stronger than the particle board)
Don't forget to drive in some long wood screws down into the healthy fiber board before you poor in Bondo to hold it together.
(Vid has described that already)
BTW, only do all that work if the cab is really worth saving.
Mine came out fine and the repair is not noticeable.
2 years later
Quoted from Lovef2k:My Spy decals were printed on Ore-Jet. These were done by the guy in the UK, unauthorized of course. I'm totally green when it comes to this. I have only done restenciling of so far. Can anyone tell me how this stuff is as far as adhesion goes? He only left about a 1/2 inch of play on the ends of the cab sides, 1/4 inch per side. I have to be a 100% spot on before I lay these down, I know that much.
Is there a sticky primer needed to make sure these stay put? I'm thinking of something used when hanging wall paper. Or is the clean wood sufficient?
This cab has T molding on the front, should I fold the extra material over and cover with the T molding or cut it flush to the cab front? I don't want the edges of the decal showing any white. I'm not sure if this material is black all the way through or just printed black.
I definitely did not fold over anything around the T-molding, I always left a 1/16" cut back on the head and cabinet edges all around. (I used the same decals on Ore-Jet without any white showing)
One thing to watch out for in my experience is wrinkling wherever metal touches the decal. (side rails, legs, and hinges)
Avoid that at all costs. 
Good Luck
1 year later
Getting ready to paint, another good use of Vids rotisserie.
I used two 2FT rods (3/8" threaded rods) and nuts/washers to secure the backbox.
There are two small holes to fill when done, but for me the convenience of rotating the box for better painting is worth it.
My smaller rotisserie is on wheels for even more convenience for moving around.
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