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(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide

By vid1900

8 years ago


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    Topic index (key posts)

    8 key posts have been marked in this topic

    Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

    Post #1 Wear a respirator when sanding old paint Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #2 Repairing large missing wood chunks with fiberglass resin Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #24 Primer and Paint commentary Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #103 Repairing separated corners Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #145 Wood selection Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #273 Steps to replace a cabinet bottom Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #344 Proper Router Bit for Creating Corner Joints on Cabinets. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #489 Separated Corners on Cabinets and How to Repair Them. Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)

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    #570 4 years ago
     
    ???

    BeachPickle

    Pinside+ Frequent

    5y 63,550 536

    I just moved my pins and when I went to reassemble, I noticed the head was loose/ wobbly on my Dolly Parton. The neck area has broken free from the back of the cab. In the photo I am pulling up on the neck so you can see the crack better. I read through the whole thread and didn’t see any similar issues, so I am tempted to just try to squirt some glue in there and screw some ugly L and T brackets in, but the machine is really nice otherwise, so figured I’d ask here and see if Vid or anyone could suggest a less half-assed fix?

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    #572 4 years ago
     
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    BeachPickle

    Pinside+ Frequent

    5y 63,550 536

    Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

    That is a pretty common problem on those cabinets. I usually drill down from the top of the neck flange down into the cabinet back. I use Kreg cabinet screws these days but have had success with long deck screws. I counter bore down a bit so the head of the screw is well below the surface. The Kreg supplied bit does it all in one go. I test fit the screws then put some wood glue down the hole and secure it one last time. Doing it this way there is nothing exposed. It looks like your cabinet has the MDF back so using a good coarse thread on the screw is important.

    Thanks for the advice. I was worried the MDF wouldn’t bite the vertically driven screws enough, since the break is being pulled from that same direction. I’ll give it a go.

    Added over 4 years ago:

    Update - Four countersunk deck screws worked great. Nice and solid now.

    Post last edited 4 years ago.

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