Getting ready to restore my first cabinet (Paragon) and have no prior experience.
I read through most of the thread but still have a few questions:

Since it's lead paint that I'm removing I was thinking about using Citristrip for the majority of the paint (never worked with it before) but I have heard mixed reviews. Most of the stuff that is recommended seems to be very caustic and fumy. Anybody worked with Citristrip before?
I figure I'll have to neutralize and clean it afterwards as well, but getting water onto a stripped cabinet seems not like a bright idea to me. Any insight into that?
Sorry for the stupid questions, but I have zero experience and aside from the Garage I don't have really a workspace, so I don't want to contaminate it too much with lead if I can avoid it. It's getting into the freezing temps here too, that's gonna be a problem as well I imagine.

I was afraid you would say that, but it is what it is then and I'll have to wait for temps to raise and do it outside.

I got a Paragon that's in players condition and I found another one that's from a usability standpoint just a cabinet, mechs and playfield wiring harness. The majority of the rest is missing or in so bad condition its pretty much useless. So, I was hoping I could start restoring this while still being able to play on the other one.
I already got a new board set from Alltek and got on the list for a CPR playfield. This machine will be bolted down to the floor once its finished and with the spare parts i may be able to create another players condition machine for someone else to enjoy. Gonna buy legs, flipper rebuild kits and whatever else may missing or broken. Looking also into one of those ultrasonic cleaners for that.

Since I'm a total noob and don't have any equipment whatsoever I was thinking to purchase this sprayer: Fuji Semi Pro 2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D4NPMJE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_9CVJ5Z73SKQ8S3YX9ZBN

Rustoleum in the colors that I would need seem to be sold out everywhere so I was thinking Sherwin Williams ProClassic Waterborne Interior Acrylic Enamel because I can tint that to what I need and it should dry quicker than oil based, but am not sure how well that would spray with the above mentioned device and how much to thin it and what tip size is needed. I figure the Killz I will have to roll/brush and let sit for 30 days no matter what.

The only other option from what I have seen in the thread if I don't want to spend a lot on a huge compressor is to parallel connect two 6 Gallon Pancake compressors and hope thats enough for the HF Spray gun that Vid mentioned...

Any insight there is welcome as well and thank you for your advise, appreciate it!

Someone suggested Rustoleum Painters Touch 2x Marigold, Apple Red and some color of blue that within a 100 mile radius I can find like almost no stock anywhere or via Amazon $150 for 6 cans (which seems ridiculous).

That's why I started looking at the HVLP stuff, but the initial cost is pretty high...

Found some of those rattle cans an hour away, how many do you need per layer of the base color coat?
I have absolutely no idea.
4 for outside, 2 for head and 2 for the top half of the inside maybe after 2 layers of kilz?

Another dumb question:

When I use shop towels drenched in acetone to solve the paint and scrape it off, i was thinking to throw the waste into a 5 gallon home Depot bucket.
Now the question is, will the acetone drenched paper towels and paint slurry dissolve the bucket.
Not planning to reuse the bucket but can i safely put a lid on and throw it away after i leave it standing outside for a day, or what is the proper process there?

I know i will need rubber or neoprene gloves because acetone will attack nitrile ones and a respirator.

Got the Fuji Semi Pro2 as a Christmas present from my best friend, so I'm going to use that out now. Am really excited!

I'll be ordering the stencil from you as soon as I have the cabinet prepped, may be a little though due to temps.

None in a 150 mile radius when I was looking. May have restocked since.