Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide

(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide


By vid1900

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 535 posts
  • 111 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Lamprey
  • Topic is favorited by 391 Pinsiders

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    Topic index (key posts)

    6 key posts have been marked in this topic

    Post #1 Wear a respirator when sanding old paint Posted by vid1900 (3 years ago)

    Post #2 Repairing large missing wood chunks with fiberglass resin Posted by vid1900 (3 years ago)

    Post #24 Primer and Paint commentary Posted by vid1900 (3 years ago)

    Post #103 Repairing separated corners Posted by vid1900 (2 years ago)

    Post #145 Wood selection Posted by vid1900 (2 years ago)

    Post #273 Steps to replace a cabinet bottom Posted by vid1900 (1 year ago)


    Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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    #279 1 year ago

    Vid,

    How would you repair this mech panel/mounting board? Slip some wood glue between both boards where they separated and clamp them together? Would you remove the peeling paint on front of it and repaint it or just seal what's left of it?

    Thanks,
    Bruce

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    #281 1 year ago

    What would you scrape it off with, a wire brush? I can dispose of the brush after doing this.

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    #283 1 year ago

    Is this what you're talking about? http://www.homedepot.com/p/KILZ-13-oz-White-Oil-Based-Interior-Primer-Sealer-and-Stain-Blocker-Aerosol-10044/100371323

    I'm planning to leave the old bulbs in when I remove the loose stuff so it doesn't get in the sockets but should I mask off some of it when I spray the Kilz? Cover the mechanics/wiring in the back with plastic? Leave the old bulbs in to keep the Kilz from getting in the sockets?

    Thanks again,
    Bruce

    4 weeks later
    #305 1 year ago

    Vid,

    Two questions about this backbox.

    1. I've already vacuumed the inside of the backbox. Is there a clear spray I can use to spray and lock down the inside walls of the backbox?
    (Would you use Sprayway Crazy Clean to clean the inside walls of the backbox and cabinet? This isn't a restore and it's inside where no one can see it. I don't have a respirator so I don't want to do any sanding or repainting)

    2. Is the mechanical panel supposed to come out the front or back?
    (this is a 1953 Williams and we got it out through the front because we had difficulty getting it out the back)

    Btw, someone replaced the triangular brace with a piece of rectangular wood. I'm going to make a new one for that corner and possibly move the corner brace on the other side to the middle which is where the top corner braces are.

    Thanks
    Bruce

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    #308 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    If you spray clear, it will look 2x as dirty, believe me.

    Not clear, I was thinking of a spray like you use for charcoal drawings. Still advise to leave it as is?

    Thanks again,
    Bruce

    #309 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballFever:

    Not clear, I was thinking of a spray like you use for charcoal drawings. Still advise to leave it as is?

    I get what you mean. It would make the dirty parts look worse. Will leave it as is original condition.

    Thanks and Happy Labor day
    Bruce

    #315 1 year ago

    Vid,

    What would you use to fill in the cracks in the shadowbox part of the light board before I spray with the Kilz? Bondo?

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    Shadow box (resized).png

    #316 1 year ago

    Btw, I've clamped and glued it with Titebond3 already (above photo is before gluing) and it's nice and strong but there are still cracks that won't close. I'd rather fill in those cracks then spray with Kilz than tighten the clamps further and risk the wood breaking up.

    Bruce

    #321 1 year ago

    There seem to be many different "Bondo" wood fillers. Will any of them work or do I need a specific one? How about this one at Home Depot?

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bondo-12-fl-oz-Wood-Filler-30081/206680651

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    3 weeks later
    #326 1 year ago

    Does the Kilz spray take longer to dry in your experience if the weather is cold or rainy? I read the instructions and googled it. Seems it's not a good idea or you need to heat the space first.

    I need to spray the backbox light panel in an unheated shed and the weather in my area is getting a low of 38 degrees with about 57 to 73 high.

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    #327 1 year ago

    Also what do you guys use to cover the light sockets when spraying with Kilz? I don't want to use old bulbs and don't want the spray getting on the sockets.

    I tried to find rubber tubing the right size that I can cut into short pieces for slipping over but none of them were the right size. Are there any "caps" the right size I can slip over the sockets before spraying?

    Bruce

    #329 1 year ago
    Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

    I use those foam ear plugs, squeeze roll them, let them expand in place.

    Insert them inside the sockets? I'd rather not have the outside of the sockets painted if possible and I'm trying to find something that will fit over the sockets covering the hole they're in so the primer won't leak through the board to the back getting on the mechanics.

    There are about 38 of them to cover too. I could use painter's tape but it would be a pain to try to get them in the small areas.

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    #332 1 year ago

    I'll try that. Which foam ear plugs do you guys use? How do you guys insert the plug into the wood hole if the socket is in the way?

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    #334 1 year ago

    Ah ok. You can see from the photo that the sockets are sticking through the holes in the board. I'm trying to think of a way to cover them and plug the wood holes.

    Bruce

    #341 1 year ago
    Quoted from terryb:

    You can buy hole plugs that are hollow in the middle at your local hardware store (Ace or Do It Best will have the biggest selection). There are several different types and maybe one will work. Depends on how much the socket sticks out and how much room around the socket.

    I'll try that. Thanks.

    Quoted from vid1900:

    The FIBERGLASS RESIN by Bondo is what you use to fill large areas that need strength - like missing corners and gaps between panels.
    The BODY FILLER by Bondo is weak, easy to sand stuff you use to patch small holes and deep scratches in the cab.

    Yes I read about the fiberglass resin at the beginning of your topic here. I bought the body filler one from Home Depot.

    Quoted from vid1900:

    Everything takes longer to cure in cooler temperatures.

    Yeah I googled it and it says Kilz takes 30 minutes to an hour so that should be enough time for me to bring it out to the shed in the afternoon when it's warmer and spray it then bring it back inside after a couple hours.

    I'm still trying to find something to put over the light sockets and plug the wood holes before spraying the Kilz. Will try what terryb suggests unless you have a better suggestion.

    Btw thanks for responding, Vid
    Bruce

    4 weeks later
    #367 1 year ago

    Vid,

    You can see the corner brace is missing on the left. I'm making a replacement to match the one on the right. Would you just nail the replacement brace in or titebond3 or both? The backbox is still pretty sturdy for it's age.

    Also, would you do anything with the top of the backbox in second photo? The rest of the backbox/cabinet paint is still good. I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to improve the top part but keep it as original as possible?

    Thanks,
    Bruce

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    #368 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Yes, I'd reglue it with Tightbond3.

    Quoted from vid1900:

    Large cracks you can fill with Wood Epoxy log:

    Cracks under 3mm you can just fill with Bondo.

    Quoted from vid1900:

    You don't have to get too crazy, just remove the loose stuff so it does not flake off inside the house.
    Wire brush, flexible drywall scraper, sandpaper.....just don't breath the dust, or let it blow into your garden.
    Spray some Kilz to lock down the remainder and you are miles ahead of where you were a few minutes before.

    Done, I'm very pleased with the result (and relieved too). Thanks for the advice, Vid.

    Bruce

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    #370 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    In cabinetry, nails are just to pin a piece in place until the glue dries.

    I used to be a professional picture framer and know what you mean.

    Quoted from vid1900:

    Is this a finish question or structure question?

    This is a finish question. I don't think the structure is a problem. Should I leave it as is or is there something I can do to improve it? I'd like to keep the original patina as much as I can to match the rest of the game and eventually put some kind of thin light lacquer finish over the cabinet paint to seal/protect it.

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    #372 1 year ago

    OK, I'll leave that part alone.

    Thanks again for your sage advice.

    Bruce

    2 weeks later
    #386 1 year ago

    Structure question to be sure before I glue in the new wood braces for good.

    The backbox seems strong enough for it's age when I wiggle and test it even if it's a little warped on the bottom from drinks being spilled over the years.

    Anything else I should do other than gluing the wood braces in and calling it a day?

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    IMG_20171120_191159014 (resized).jpg

    #388 1 year ago

    Will do. Should I unbolt and remove the head before doing this?

    The new braces are going in the middle bottom corners where they're supposed to go. The top braces are already in the correct middle position and will be left alone.

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    #390 1 year ago

    I don't have a table saw or equipment like that. I can use angles to be sure it's square when I glue the bottom braces in unless you suggest a different solution.

    Would you recommend 400 or 600 grit wood sandpaper for sanding where the braces will be glued?

    Bruce

    #392 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    That will work, just make sure it's square before the glue sets.

    I'll check and make sure the box is square and get back to you on what to do if it isn't.

    Quoted from vid1900:

    You can use a brace as a sanding block and get both sides at once.

    You mean wrap one of the new wood corner braces with sandpaper and use it to sand that area? I'm thinking that it would sand too wide an area to cover with the new wood brace unless I misunderstand you.

    Bruce

    #393 1 year ago

    I wanted to clarify that I was planning to leave the two top braces alone unless you recommend I also replace or re-glue them. The original plan was to reposition the bottom right brace and put in a new brace where the missing brace should be on the left bottom.

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    Top backbox braces (resized).jpg

    1 week later
    #395 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    You can use a brace as a sanding block and get both sides at once.

    Quoted from PinballFever:

    You mean wrap one of the new wood corner braces with sandpaper and use it to sand that area? I'm thinking that it would sand too wide an area to cover with the new wood brace unless I misunderstand you.

    Nm, I get the "both sides at once" reference. I'll use a shorter brace to do this.

    I used a square and confirmed the box is perfectly square. Will proceed with sanding and gluing the braces in.

    I'm also planning to do a light sanding of the backbox bottom with 400 grit sandpaper to clean up some of the crud from drinks spilled over the years.

    Thanks again, I don't know what we'd do without your guides and help. (probably end up putting off or never doing what we should be doing with our games due to lack of knowledge/experience)
    Bruce

    3 months later
    #443 11 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    LEAD RATED RESPIRATOR

    Long topic to look through but will this respirator also protect you against chemicals, spray paint etc or just lead paint? What would you use for chemicals/spraying paint?

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