Cave Creek, AZ
Very Nice
(Topic ID: 132130)
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5 months later
I am not sure what R-O is but the product sheet should give dry times or instructions on the can.
320 grit would be the lowest I would go depending on what type base coat you are using. Rattle cans paint hides more (goes on thicker) than automotive base coats.
Base coats are made to be cleared over so you can sand the base coat as well before the clear is applied.
1 month later
Quoted from PinballBillinFL:I'm curious as to what others are doing with the metal backbox doors on old EM machines that you are restoring. Mine is serviceable; it's got a couple of wrinkles in the sides as though somebody tried to pry it out, and a bit of corrosion here and there. Nothing major wrong though. I've given thought to a few scenarios: Clean it up and keep it as is; clean it up and paint it to match the cabinet base color; replace it with a plywood panel painted to match, or perhaps a mix - stiffen the existing panel with some plywood and paint (or not). These last two are not high on my list, I should say, but are possibilities.
Thoughts?
You can have one made as well at any welding or fabricating shop.
9 months later
Automotive paints work incredibly well. I did my High Speed with PinballPimp stencils and automotive paints as well. The cabinet came out amazing!
Working with these paints takes a lot of know how and experience to do correctly. It is not necessarily difficult but requires learned techniques.
Chris has a dedicated paint booth and uses all the right tools to make the job go smoothly. That makes a huge difference. Every piece of equipment he has is top notch. The compressor for example is $7000+
There are so many variables involved with these automotive paints.
His years of experience is a huge advantage.
I have learned a lot just from his thread.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Is there a benefit to using parallel coils?
The reason to switch is so your EOS (End Of Stroke) switches last longer. Here is a link to a thread that talks about doing it. There are lots of discussions on the subject.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Ah ya threw me off, different thread but I got ya. If I hadn't of bought the flipper coils already, I would go for it. I was reading through the HS manual on the flipper page about how to correctly gap the EOS and lane change switches. I think if I follow this, the EOS should last a while. Well I hope anyway. Is there a specific parallel coil for HS in case I ever do upgrade?
Another thing I noticed, is the EOS mounting brackets on my game are short and there's no space to zip tie the caps in place.
The coils for HS are FL-11630 Here is a thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-flipper-coils#post-6048325
You will need new base plates as well. It is a big upgrade but worth it.
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