Nice thread!
(Topic ID: 132130)
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider KornFreak28.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
8 months later
Quoted from vid1900:From here, it looks like the bolt will thread in no problem.
If not, then take the 3/8" bolt, thread it 1/2 way in and tap it with a hammer.
The T-nut will pop off the back and can be reinstalled.
We tried threading the bolt several times but it needs just a bit more of clearance. So I would knock the T-nut out to install the bolt and then install the T-nut once the bolt is in? The problem is the bolt does not go in half way, not even 1/4 of the way. The wood is in the way....
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Just don't thread it in then but still use it as a push rod. Should work to the same result.
I guess you are correct on that one. I just wanted to know if there is a way to maybe slightly move the backbox to line up the holes. I guess I could also try making the top hole a tad bigger to get the clearance I need? What would be the reason why these holes don't line up?
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Perhaps the 3/8 bolt was never installed in that hole to begin with?
He tells me he's only used the back box bracket to secure the back box. I don't particularly like that idea.... I would really like to secure it with the bolts. I just wonder why they don't line up in the first place...
Quoted from Atari_Daze:So that sounds like the back box hole and the cab hole don't line up... while not the "proper" fix, you could just drill the head hole one size larger, perhaps that would allow the bolt to be inserted into the cab hole and then the t nut. The washer should make up for the extra gap in the head hole.
That is one good option. I just wonder why there are like this
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Deformation of the back box hinges perhaps causing the mis-alignment.
Nice suggestion! How about sanding the inside of the hole with a dremel tool to get the clearance needed?
Quoted from vid1900:I'd just chuck a 1/2" bit in a drill and ream out the backbox hole
If you want to pull out the T-nut, thread it in from the bottom and wiggle it free.
I will do just that. Vid, do you think just the backbox bracket is enough to secure the backbox? So do you also think bad hinges are causing this issue? Thanks!
Quoted from vid1900:Nope.
Always get a bolt in there, or you will be sorry when it falls.No.
Just sloppy **craftsmanship** .
These things were built like crap, because you would throw them away after 2-3 years.
Over the years all this kind of stuff usually gets fixed along the way, but when they were NIB, they were crap.
Great info Like always Vid! Thanks!!!
Can anyone please tell me What are the correct measurements for the base of a rotisserie? I would like to build one but don't want to make it too long or too short. I honestly don't know if all playfields are the same lenght. Thanks!
3 weeks later
Vid,
I know there are a lot better methods for painting the inside of the cabinet, but, Would it be OK to paint the inside of a cabinet with a paint brush or roller? I would like to freshen up the look inside but would rather not remove the playfield and I don't have tools needed to do it the most efficient way possible (spray gun)
I just need to know if going the roller or paint brush route is something not totally crazy and would like to know if good results can be achieved? If so, What brand of paint do you use? Gloss or Semi? I already sanded the bottom and would like to paint the sides. Thanks Vid!
Quoted from vid1900:It would be better to just leave it alone than painting the insides with a brush or roller.
The value of your game will take a BIG hit when you try and sell it.
I will take your advise and just leave it alone. Thanks a lot Vid! 
Quoted from vid1900:A serious collector can tell even if it's spray painted.
There is a look to 40 year old painted wood, and new paint tends to look way too new.
Every collector wants a real, silkscreened AFM cabinet. No one wants a cab covered with crappy stickers that you have to worry about them peeling, wrinkling or the ink wearing off.
So the less it looks like you did to the cab, the more valuable it is.
Great point Vid! I'll just stick to sanding clean the bottom of the cab.
Hey Vid,
Do you think it's possible for you to do a section about removing old decals, installing new decals, cutting the edges and everything in between? I know you are probably busy but I think that would be very helpful info. Thanks!
2 months later
Vid,
I'm getting ready to paint the inside of the cabinet (after lots of sanding of course) Do I need a primer? If so, What is the recommended primer to use for the inside of the cabinet? Latex? Oil-based? Any particluar brand? Thanks!
Quoted from vid1900:Oil based Killz will stop any stains in the bottom from leaching back through to the paint.
Bottom has been sanded and will not be painted. Only painting the walls. Still go with Oil based?
Quoted from vid1900:Oil Killz is bad assed stuff.
The only thing better is 2-part high fill primer.
Sounds great Vid! Thanks so much
Vid,
When priming and painting the inside of the cabinet, Do you sand between each application of primer and paint? How long do you wait? What sand paper (grit) should be used? Thanks Vid!
Quoted from vid1900:Most primers you don't have to sand, check the label.
400grit is good, use 200 if you need to feather out deep gouges (or fill them with Bondo).
How about for the paint? Is it better to sand between each coat or apply all coats (plan on doing 3 coats) withing a few minutes from each other?
Quoted from vid1900:Depends on the paint.
Some 2K paints, you can recoat 20 minutes apart without sanding.
See what the label says about recoat times before you shoot that 2nd coat.
Using rust-oleum semi-gloss black. I'll check that label...Thanks Vid, you rock
4 months later
Vid,
What's the best way to remove the glue left behind by the cabinet decals? Sand or scrape? Thanks!
Quoted from vid1900:Each brand of decal has it's own glue formula, so try a few common solvents and see what kills it.
Acetone, Mineral Spirits, Lacquer Thinner, MEK
If it's still sticky, believe it or not WD40 actually makes many decal adhesives roll up into balls.
Thanks for the tip! I got the cabinet stripped and will start making repairs to it. Amazingly, the cabinet is in very good shape. There is no cabinet separation or big chunks of wood missing. I only have a few minor areas that need repairs. Is bondo difficult to sand?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:If it's regular Bondo, it's not too bad - similar to wood epoxy ("wood weld"), but if its the Bondo Fiberglass which you use on corners... it can be a bastard to get sanded down perfectly!
I was thinking of using car bondo....
4 months later
Vid,
I got my IJ cabinet primed and sanded and ready to install the decals. My plan is to paint all corners and edges black where the decals will be trimmed off. My question is: Will the primed, unpainted surface on the rest of the cabinet show through the decals? Do I really have to paint the whole cabinet? I used Kilz primer (White color) and I got good quality decals from Mr. Pinball. Thanks!
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider KornFreak28.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
