(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide

By vid1900

8 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 954 posts
  • 203 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by emsrph
  • Topic is favorited by 623 Pinsiders

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    Topic index (key posts)

    8 key posts have been marked in this topic

    Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

    Post #1 Wear a respirator when sanding old paint Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #2 Repairing large missing wood chunks with fiberglass resin Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #24 Primer and Paint commentary Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #103 Repairing separated corners Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #145 Wood selection Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #273 Steps to replace a cabinet bottom Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #344 Proper Router Bit for Creating Corner Joints on Cabinets. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #489 Separated Corners on Cabinets and How to Repair Them. Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)


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    #357 6 years ago
    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    I used 1/4" plywood to replace the bottom of an older 80s bally....is that what I should use on a WPC Fish Tales cab as well?

    No. WPC games had 1/2" bottoms.

    4 weeks later
    #378 6 years ago
    Quoted from Budwin:

    Spent a lot of time repairing corners.
    Anyone used trunk/speaker box corner protectors on the head?
    Seems like a way to avoid corner damage in the future.
    Comments - Ideas?
    Bud

    They'd look cool on some custom wood piece you were making but I'd never put them on a pinball machine.

    3 months later
    #427 6 years ago
    Quoted from jsa:

    I did it with 120, but I cleaned my sandpaper frequently. I've been told that stripper or some other chemicals works best (but is super toxic).

    I start with 80 grit and even with that, I'll go through a number of sheets.

    4 weeks later
    #464 6 years ago
    Quoted from flynnibus:

    I used foam roller and oil based kilz (no thinning). Oil as a base is always more forgiving in what you use on top vs latex.. and probably sands better too.
    The finish was smooth to the touch, but not really and I was pushing for better. Example of the pitting that wouldn't sand out easily..

    Those look like the type of imperfections I would normally fill with Bondo.

    5 months later
    #486 5 years ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Figured: strip, sand 60-80-100, patch, sand patched areas, prime, sand 60-80-100-120, then paint? Then clear?

    WOW! I would go 80, patch, 80, 120, 220, prime, 320 then paint. Even 220 after priming can leave sanding marks.

    2 years later
    #688 3 years ago
    Quoted from Lovef2k:

    I'm getting ready to do my first cab decal replacement. Machine is a 1984 Spy Hunter. My worry is that the cab is not plywood, I'm guessing MDF or some cheap flake board. My main concern is not letting the wood swell or become bumpy since my new decals are glossy. Which chemicals can I get away with for removing the decal glue? Naptha, Acetone, Goof Off to avoid selling?

    You shouldn't be dealing with any glue. You should just have screened ink on wood.

    I never used any kind of liquid. I just sanded everything off. Start with 80 grit and end with 220.

    #690 3 years ago
    Quoted from Lovef2k:

    Screened ink on wood? This cab has decals.

    I would never have thought they did that back in 84.

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