(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide

By vid1900

8 years ago


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  • 954 posts
  • 203 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by emsrph
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    Topic index (key posts)

    8 key posts have been marked in this topic

    Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

    Post #1 Wear a respirator when sanding old paint Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #2 Repairing large missing wood chunks with fiberglass resin Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #24 Primer and Paint commentary Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)

    Post #103 Repairing separated corners Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #145 Wood selection Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #273 Steps to replace a cabinet bottom Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #344 Proper Router Bit for Creating Corner Joints on Cabinets. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #489 Separated Corners on Cabinets and How to Repair Them. Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)


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    #115 7 years ago

    For the Createx 2X I had a bad experience with it skinning over and pulling up with the stencil. I spent a lot of time experimenting with dry time and paint brands using scrap stencil pieces. I recommend against a super fast drying paint for that reason. I went with an oil based rust paint also by Rustoleum (Tremclad brand in Canada but sold as something else in the US). It worked extremely well. It also mimics most the old school paint the factory used.

    I use the 2X stuff quite a bit for other things and it is great for a base coat and really does cover well. If using it with a stencil though, I finish spraying, put down the can, and immediately start peeling up the stencil. I keep Q-tips and Naptha nearby to touch of the inevitable little strings that can form.

    2 months later
    #189 7 years ago

    I find spraying a single side at a time requires masking of the other sides. No matter what some spray gets on adjacent sides. It will still turn out well but over spray onto an already completed face requires wet sanding and buffing to correct rather than spraying everything while it is all still wet.

    6 months later
    #204 7 years ago

    Run a tap through it.

    6 months later
    #324 6 years ago

    I think you are getting overspray on the side you are not painting. Pretty common thing. When those 'around-the-corner' surfaces are wet, that spray just merges into the surface. Afterwards, the tiny particles just attach to the surface and stick proud giving the rough feeling. I would mask them off.

    Spray a mist of anything at a corner and watch the vortex rotate around the corner.

    #328 6 years ago
    Quoted from PinballFever:

    Also what do you guys use to cover the light sockets when spraying with Kilz? I don't want to use old bulbs and don't want the spray getting on the sockets.
    I tried to find rubber tubing the right size that I can cut into short pieces for slipping over but none of them were the right size. Are there any "caps" the right size I can slip over the sockets before spraying?
    Bruce

    I use those foam ear plugs, squeeze roll them, let them expand in place.

    Quoted from xeneize:

    bjm-maxx I was afraid that this might be the answer...
    If this is indeed the case is there a way to smooth/level without shooting another layer of clear on the "rough" sides?

    I would normally wet sand and polish to avoid repainting. You can wet sand with 800 or 1000.

    #330 6 years ago
    Quoted from PinballFever:

    Insert them inside the sockets? I'd rather not have the outside of the sockets painted if possible and I'm trying to find something that will fit over the sockets covering the hole they're in so the primer won't leak through the board to the back getting on the mechanics.
    There are about 38 of them to cover too. I could use painter's tape but it would be a pain to try to get them in the small areas.
    Thanks,
    Bruce

    I insert the plug into the hole stopping at the end of the socket. The plug fills the wood hole, not the socket.

    #333 6 years ago

    You want the plugs that are little cylinders, not the ones shaped like your ear canal. On any thing I have done the sockets were below the surface of the board.

    #336 6 years ago

    There are so many choices with polishing, if it is 2pac any automotive polish product will work, if you wet sand up to 1500, swirl remover would do it. Start fine and go coarse only if needed.

    1 year later
    #515 5 years ago
    Quoted from djblouw:

    Two questions:
    How do you properly remove the metal security plate from a classic Bally?
    How do you quickly remove the panel? (since there isn't a need for these in home use)
    [quoted image]

    I just got one out by removing the T headed nails, then lifted it up enough to grab it with vice grips. I tapped the vice grips towards the back of the cabinet. Once it cracked free I pried up and out, the plate was fine. I trimmed the corners at the front a little and was able reinstall it.

    1 year later
    #571 4 years ago
    Quoted from BeachPickle:

    I just moved my pins and when I went to reassemble, I noticed the head was loose/ wobbly on my Dolly Parton. The neck area has broken free from the back of the cab. In the photo I am pulling up on the neck so you can see the crack better. I read through the whole thread and didn’t see any similar issues, so I am tempted to just try to squirt some glue in there and screw some ugly L and T brackets in, but the machine is really nice otherwise, so figured I’d ask here and see if Vid or anyone could suggest a less half-assed fix?[quoted image]

    That is a pretty common problem on those cabinets. I usually drill down from the top of the neck flange down into the cabinet back. I use Kreg cabinet screws these days but have had success with long deck screws. I counter bore down a bit so the head of the screw is well below the surface. The Kreg supplied bit does it all in one go. I test fit the screws then put some wood glue down the hole and secure it one last time. Doing it this way there is nothing exposed. It looks like your cabinet has the MDF back so using a good coarse thread on the screw is important.

    1 year later
    #779 2 years ago

    For anyone using the Rustoleum paints, you can use almost any of them for the base coats prior to stenciling. Just follow the label to the letter for wait times between coats or before moving on to stenciling. For stenciling, my experience has been that the more the paint brags about short dry time, the harder it is to use with a stencil. The paint pulls up stringy tendrils as the stencil comes up unless you spray and pull of the stencil immediately or wait much longer to pull the stencil. Both have their drawbacks. I prefer a longer setting paint, Rustoleum makes an oil based spray paint that smells like old-school paint from when I was a kid. Had much more luck with it.

    When I pull off a stencil I have Q-Tips and a small container of Naptha handy to touch any bad looking edges, you can rework the paint in real time this way. A raised edge from a stencil can be pushed back down, a stringy piece can be removed.

    #790 2 years ago

    In a lot cases people use a guide coat, just a very sparse spray of a contrasting colour and then as you sand you can see contours and features that are otherwise hidden. Looks like your coarse sanding was not complete.

    1 year later
    #894 1 year ago

    I have repaired that damage before, it looks really scary but is actually pretty easy to fix. Rip off the remaining crumbling chunks. Make a solid piece of wood the approximate size to replace it. Glue and clamp it in place. Then sand level to match the cabinet bottom. If the ripped off original has some remnants and makes an uneven surface to glue to I will drop fiberglass resin into the open bits and sand it all at the end.

    8 months later
    #941 7 months ago
    Quoted from Barr993:

    Looking for opinions:
    Working on a Solids N Stripes and the cabinet back particle board bottom edge was destroyed. I rebuilt it with epoxy thinking the rough edge of the particle board would give the epoxy something good to hold on to.
    Not sure about the longevity of the repair though because that area gets abused when standing it up.
    Good or should I be looking to cut out and replace the lower edge?
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    That lower edge is the most likely one to break a repair as you say when standing it up. My repair for that particle board is to harden the edge with wood hardener (basically thin CA glue poured into the "grain" and when cured it is much stronger). The sink some raised screws into the edge and pour epoxy on to build it up again. But in that location where the machine might be sitting on that edge I could see doing a partial panel replacement, take out the bottom 4 inches of panel, put in a much stronger plywood panel and do a join using angled screws along the mated edge. But at that point you could just pull out the whole panel.

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