Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide

(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide


By vid1900

3 years ago



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  • 535 posts
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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Lamprey
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    There are 535 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 11.
    #401 1 year ago

    Awesome thanks for sharing ... I was trying to visualize how the connections were but I would like seeing the backside as well

    #402 1 year ago
    Quoted from Stretch7:

    Has anyone here built a rotisserie for cabinets?

    Yes, I built mine based on budwin 's modifications - works beautifully!

    #403 1 year ago
    Quoted from packie1:

    Show the back on that thing! Need to see what you are referring to.
    Mike

    I guess that would help.

    Bud

    StandOffs (resized).JPG

    #404 1 year ago

    Leg Off (resized).JPGJust a modification on the idea of cabinet corner protectors to protect the machine when moving and in storage.

    I installed these: amazon.com link »

    on my current project in hopes of saving the next guy that restores this (in 20 years) from some of the corner repairs I had to do.

    These are covered up by the legs so really no down side I could see. ($1.35 each corner)

    I spent way more than that on that damn epoxy and sand paper.

    Bud

    Quoted from Budwin:

    Spent a lot of time repairing corners.
    Anyone used trunk/speaker box corner protectors on the head?
    Seems like a way to avoid corner damage in the future.
    Comments - Ideas?
    Bud

    Front Leg (resized).JPG

    Under Leg (resized).JPG

    Side Leg (resized).JPG

    #405 1 year ago
    Quoted from Budwin:

    Just a modification on the idea of cabinet corner protectors to protect the machine when moving and in storage.
    I installed these: amazon.com link »
    on my current project in hopes of saving the next guy that restores this (in 20 years) from some of the corner repairs I had to do.
    These are covered up by the legs so really no down side I could see. ($1.35 each corner)
    I spent way more than that on that damn epoxy and sand paper.
    Bud

    I can see no reason this Shouldn’t be standard practice! Maybe it’s a little questionable on the back box but ... man we should have been doing this for years

    #406 1 year ago
    Quoted from Budwin:

    Just a modification on the idea of cabinet corner protectors to protect the machine when moving and in storage.
    I installed these: amazon.com link »
    on my current project in hopes of saving the next guy that restores this (in 20 years) from some of the corner repairs I had to do.
    These are covered up by the legs so really no down side I could see. ($1.35 each corner)
    I spent way more than that on that damn epoxy and sand paper.
    Bud

    Great idea!
    Will be using those on my beater project pins to hide bunged up corners.

    #407 1 year ago
    Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

    I can see no reason this Shouldn’t be standard practice! Maybe it’s a little questionable on the back box but ... man we should have been doing this for years

    I wish Stern, JJP, Spooky, Dutch, Riot and all other manufacturers would integrate this inexpensive feature to their designs.
    If we never moved these machines around we would not need these corners protected, but we do move them a lot.........
    Too much investment in these pins not to take simple measures to keep them nice.
    If you protect corners on steamer trunks, amps, and speakers why not pins?

    #408 1 year ago
    Quoted from Budwin:

    I wish Stern, JJP, Spooky, Dutch, Riot and all other manufacturers would integrate this inexpensive feature to their designs.
    If we never moved these machines around we would not need these corners protected, but we do move them a lot.........
    Too much investment in these pins not to take simple measures to keep them nice.
    If you protect corners on steamer trunks, amps, and speakers why not pins?

    Exactly! And those of us with tight turns or steps in our houses can never be too careful...

    Man, I don’t see that town often - im a former resident of Westerville, Hackberry rd if I recall correctly.

    #409 1 year ago

    What is the best way to clean inside glass guides on each side of cabinet? (Pic of Gottlieb C37)

    image (resized).jpeg

    #410 1 year ago
    Quoted from spinal:

    What is the best way to clean inside glass guides on each side of cabinet? (Pic of Gottlieb C37)

    A straight sided, standard screwdriver (sometimes called a "gunsmith" screwdriver), scrapes all that dried beer and blood right out.

    Follow with a damp rag on the screwdriver, and you have a nice, non gritty slide.

    xl_354008001_2 (resized).jpg

    #411 1 year ago

    I'm at the "tail end" of my 1978 Playboy cabinet restore. It's my first pin and read many threads before starting. Reading these posts has been so helpful. I picked up the Playboy locally in August for what I thought was a pretty fair price considering the condition it was in. IMG_0295 (resized).JPG IMG_0304 (resized).JPGSaved the bottom but had to build a new backbox. I was lucky enough to find a stencil kit as I found out they are hard to come by due to licensing issues. I'm attaching a few before and after photos. I got the new legs and side rails in the other day and couldn't wait to see how it looked! I used most of Vid's recommendations on primer, base coat and rattle cans for the colors. It's not perfect I think I could do better with some experience but happy with the results so far.

    I have a few questions on clear coating the cabinet. I'm not really set up for the automotive clear and have been reading about the 2k products. Wanted to ask opinions on the 2k products and sheen. Being my first pin, the cabinet has some minor spots I missed so I'm thinking a satin finish to help hide some stuff I missed during sanding. I don't think a high gloss would be wise in this case but looking for advice?

    Second, should I use a high grit wet sand before applying the clear? I've read it can knock down the edges from the stencil and give the paint some tooth but don't want to goof up the stencil job or paint. Any advice or should I just do it and trust the process? Any harm in not wet sanding and just shooting the clear?

    Here is a photo of the almost finished cabinet. I'm moving it between the garage and the house slowing easing my wife into the idea we're gunna have a pin inside soon!IMG_2384 (resized).JPG

    #412 1 year ago
    Quoted from tflick:

    Second, should I use a high grit wet sand before applying the clear?

    Of course.

    You need to knock off the edges from the stencil and give the clear some tooth to stick to.

    3 weeks later
    #413 1 year ago

    Does anyone use Sealcoat after the initial paint stripping/sanding? It may be a superfluous extra step but it does make the wood feel awfully nice and smooth afterward...

    sealcoat (resized).png

    #414 1 year ago
    Quoted from NicoVolta:

    Does anyone use Sealcoat after the initial paint stripping/sanding? It may be a superfluous extra step but it does make the wood feel awfully nice and smooth afterward...

    i have used a sanding sealer for many years now.

    #415 1 year ago
    Quoted from NicoVolta:

    Does anyone use Sealcoat after the initial paint stripping/sanding? It may be a superfluous extra step but it does make the wood feel awfully nice and smooth afterward...

    I've used exactly that when building MDF speaker enclosures. A few coats just soak into the MDF, then do the sanding and primer/finishing. For cabinet work, it's not a bad idea. I wouldn't think the primer would react poorly to it or anything.

    1 week later
    #416 1 year ago

    vid1900, I've perused this thread for ages and it's been very helpful.

    I also am about to jump into a cabinet restore for a late 70's Bally and plan to paint with a Pinball Pimp stencil kit. I'm leaning towards two part automotive paints and clears, more because I want to learn how to use them and also because of color choice/drying time.

    I've read from other restoration threads about spraying clear over each layer of stencil. Hit base, clear, layer 1, clear, layer 2, clear, final matte clear, or something to that effect. The argument (if i can piece together everyone's motivations) is that you can sand the edges down a bit easier without worrying about sanding through the stenciled paint. This contradicts the idea of high-grit sanding prior to the clear to give it tooth, etc.

    It sounds like a lot of work, and I'm not sure I like the idea of spraying clear without a high grit sanding first (as you mention in your post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide/page/9#post-4132395).

    I get it if I'm doing micro fixes, color adjustments, etc., between stencil layers. However, if everything goes well, is this overkill? My sense is that I could do primer, base, gold flecks, 800 grit. layer 1, 800 grit. layer 2, 800 grit. matte clear.

    Any thoughts on this? Any reason to insert more clear in there? Thanks.

    #417 1 year ago

    You don't need the clear between each layer.

    Fresh paints of the same brand usually stick to each other pretty good for a week or so.

    If you use 800-1000 to ease your edges, you will not sand through. Just take it easy.

    #418 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    You don't need the clear between each layer.
    Fresh paints of the same brand usually stick to each other pretty good for a week or so.
    If you use 800-1000 to ease your edges, you will not sand through. Just take it easy.

    Just to confirm, you still recommend sanding the entire surface with 800-1000 between layers though, correct? Or did you mean about the paint sticking that other than knocking down the edges, not necessary?

    #419 1 year ago

    It will say on the data sheet now many days you have to add more coats without sanding.

    1 month later
    #420 11 months ago

    This Skateball suffered water damage from an apparent roof leak. The backbox rear panel is completely ruined and swollen but the surrounding wood seems to still be solid. I could've sworn that rear panel on old Bally SS pins was plywood but in this case it looks like particle board.

    Can I cut a new piece of plywood and replace it? I realize I will need to cut vent holes in the new panel. The lower cabinet rear panel, which I know is definitely particle board, appears not to be damaged at all.

    I don't plan to repaint the cabinet, but I'd like to fix it well enough to be solid.

    20180226_183507 (resized).jpg

    20180226_182215 (resized).jpg

    20180226_183534 (resized).jpg

    #421 11 months ago

    Pretty sure it's been mentioned before, but gonna show off the joint you get using a lock miter router bit for cabinet corners.
    Picked the bit up from Rockler, along with the matching plastic setting/measurement tool.

    20180223_230153 (resized).jpg

    20180223_230243 (resized).jpg

    #422 11 months ago
    Quoted from Hardsuit:

    Pretty sure it's been mentioned before, but gonna show off the joint you get using a lock miter router bit for cabinet corners.
    Picked the bit up from Rockler, along with the matching plastic setting/measurement tool.

    That is a beautiful thing. Curious how the routing process works, as I have one but have little experience using it. Is there some kind of jig that keeps it all going in the right direction?

    #423 11 months ago

    Check out this handy guide on Lee Valley's site...

    http://www.leevalley.com/en/html/16j7508ie.pdf

    #424 11 months ago

    Anyone build cabinets close to Georgia? My whirlwind has a huge chunk out of the front under the coin door. Would love to buy a new cabinet and redo it.

    #425 11 months ago

    Anyone come across the dialed in sandpaper grit for removing the glue from cabinet after heat gun removing the artwork? Doing a FT right now

    Thx!!

    #426 11 months ago
    Quoted from northerndude:

    Anyone come across the dialed in sandpaper grit for removing the glue from cabinet after heat gun removing the artwork? Doing a FT right now
    Thx!!

    I did it with 120, but I cleaned my sandpaper frequently. I've been told that stripper or some other chemicals works best (but is super toxic).

    #427 11 months ago
    Quoted from jsa:

    I did it with 120, but I cleaned my sandpaper frequently. I've been told that stripper or some other chemicals works best (but is super toxic).

    I start with 80 grit and even with that, I'll go through a number of sheets.

    #428 11 months ago

    Hello All,
    Working on a Funhouse back box restoration. I have run into some unusual rot on the sides of the backbox (where decals will go). Any advice on how to best handle this? It seems to be just below the surface as initially the wood seemed nice and hard. But as I bondo'ed and filled scratches, I sand down the bondo and get to a lower level of this very soft wood. I have scraped a good bit of it out, but it is frustrating as I just keep finding more. Even after I bondo.

    Any advice on how to tackle this?

    Recommended filler for the big gaps I am creating? The bondo is difficult to use in these bigger "cavities"

    backbix3 (resized).JPG
    backbox1 (resized).JPG
    backbox0 (resized).JPG
    boxbox2 (resized).JPG

    #429 11 months ago
    Quoted from Elicash:

    Hello All,
    Working on a Funhouse back box restoration. I have run into some unusual rot on the sides of the backbox (where decals will go). Any advice on how to best handle this? It seems to be just below the surface as initially the wood seemed nice and hard. But as I bondo'ed and filled scratches, I sand down the bondo and get to a lower level of this very soft wood. I have scraped a good bit of it out, but it is frustrating as I just keep finding more. Even after I bondo.
    Any advice on how to tackle this?
    Recommended filler for the big gaps I am creating? The bondo is difficult to use in these bigger "cavities"

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide#post-2546324

    #430 11 months ago

    thanks. I am going to go pick up some fiber glass resin.

    Anyone have ideas on the rot? Do I need to get all of it out of there? my fear is that as I sand I keep finding more below a harder top layer of wood.

    #431 11 months ago

    Get some wood hardener.

    #432 11 months ago

    Anyone know where i can get dimensions for a data east tales from the crypt cabinet or a 90s data east cabinet dimensions i can .modify

    #433 11 months ago
    Quoted from Budwin:

    I wish Stern, JJP, Spooky, Dutch, Riot and all other manufacturers would integrate this inexpensive feature to their designs.
    If we never moved these machines around we would not need these corners protected, but we do move them a lot.........
    Too much investment in these pins not to take simple measures to keep them nice.
    If you protect corners on steamer trunks, amps, and speakers why not pins?

    I want to get those same leg protectors with the two screw holes. Where did you get them?

    #434 11 months ago

    I bought mine on eBay, but there is an Amazon link at post #404
    Bud

    #435 11 months ago
    Quoted from Budwin:

    I bought mine on eBay, but there is an Amazon link at post #404
    Bud

    I did order those, thanks, I was referring to the pinball leg protectors, specifically the ones you used in combination with the metal cabinet corners.

    Michael

    #436 11 months ago

    Oh, I pulled those plastic ones off a new Stern.

    You can get the metal equivalent from Pinball Life.

    https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711

    Bud

    #437 11 months ago
    Quoted from Budwin:

    Oh, I pulled those plastic ones off a new Stern.
    You can get the metal equivalent from Pinball Life.
    https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711
    Bud

    Ya! I bought those to upgrade my games as well

    #438 11 months ago
    Quoted from RoyGBev:

    Can I cut a new piece of plywood and replace it? I realize I will need to cut vent holes in the new panel. The lower cabinet rear panel, which I know is definitely particle board, appears not to be damaged at all.

    You can use the old particle board back as a router template to cut the vents in the new plywood back.

    You want a Pattern Bit for your router.

    405377.0 (resized).jpg

    #439 11 months ago
    Quoted from Elicash:

    Anyone have ideas on the rot? Do I need to get all of it out of there? my fear is that as I sand I keep finding more below a harder top layer of wood.

    Like Dasvis said, some Wood Hardener will soak into the soft wood and toughen him up.

    It may take a few coats, don't worry.

    401443 (resized).jpg

    #440 11 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Like Dasvis said, some Wood Hardener will soak into the soft wood and toughen him up.
    It may take a few coats, don't worry.

    Weird..... my wife tried to get me to use that too....

    #441 11 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Like Dasvis said, some Wood Hardener will soak into the soft wood and toughen him up.
    It may take a few coats, don't worry.

    It does work pretty good.

    #442 11 months ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    I start with 80 grit and even with that, I'll go through a number of sheets.

    and lots of beer

    1 week later
    #443 11 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    LEAD RATED RESPIRATOR

    Long topic to look through but will this respirator also protect you against chemicals, spray paint etc or just lead paint? What would you use for chemicals/spraying paint?

    #444 11 months ago
    Quoted from PinballFever:

    Long topic to look through but will this respirator also protect you against chemicals, spray paint etc or just lead paint? What would you use for chemicals/spraying paint?

    This one will do both.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Large-Paint-Project-Respirator-Mask-6311PA1-A/100195886

    #445 11 months ago

    This thread (and the other guides!) never fail to disappoint -

    I've got a WPC cabinet with scratches/gouges in the side art; what is the best way to level these down and fill prior to repainting? The scratching does not extend to the wood, it is just the art and vinyl underlayment.

    #447 11 months ago
    Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

    This thread (and the other guides!) never fail to disappoint -
    I've got a WPC cabinet with scratches/gouges in the side art; what is the best way to level these down and fill prior to repainting? The scratching does not extend to the wood, it is just the art and vinyl underlayment.

    Wouldn't you be removing all the previous art and vinyl as it is?

    #448 11 months ago

    Vid,

    I got my IJ cabinet primed and sanded and ready to install the decals. My plan is to paint all corners and edges black where the decals will be trimmed off. My question is: Will the primed, unpainted surface on the rest of the cabinet show through the decals? Do I really have to paint the whole cabinet? I used Kilz primer (White color) and I got good quality decals from Mr. Pinball. Thanks!

    #449 11 months ago
    Quoted from northerndude:

    Wouldn't you be removing all the previous art and vinyl as it is?

    No way - just finished a complete restore job on another game, and I just don’t have enough space to do cabinets, as I found out .. lol

    #450 11 months ago
    Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

    This thread (and the other guides!) never fail to disappoint -
    I've got a WPC cabinet with scratches/gouges in the side art; what is the best way to level these down and fill prior to repainting? The scratching does not extend to the wood, it is just the art and vinyl underlayment.

    You can fill them any number of ways. Bondo, drip in 2PAC, or whatever can you have open.

    If you have nothing, they buying the Bondo is probably the cheapest.

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