(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide


By vid1900

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 561 posts
  • 120 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 66 days ago by durgee7
  • Topic is favorited by 427 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    There have been 221 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    20190713_170750 (resized).jpg
    20190713_170742 (resized).jpg
    20190713_170755 (resized).jpg
    20190713_170759 (resized).jpg
    15601769254683182011078943131977 (resized).jpg
    P5032558 (resized).JPG
    P5032476 (resized).JPG
    P5032475 (resized).JPG
    P5032480 (resized).JPG
    P5032562 (resized).JPG
    P5032559 (resized).JPG
    P5032479 (resized).JPG
    20190427_203233 (resized).jpg
    20190428_231857 (resized).jpg
    20190306_203230 (resized).jpg
    cp (resized).jpg

    Topic index (key posts)

    8 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

    There are 561 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 12.
    #351 1 year ago
    Quoted from jwilson:

    You can see the plys in your photo. It's plywood.

    OK how do I fix it?

    #352 1 year ago

    You’re certain that same crack from the outside is all the way through to the inside? We’re asking the questions because it determines how to repair the problem. My guess is the veneer is split but the plys are intact. I could be wrong though.

    #353 1 year ago

    If you were going to build a new cab from scratch, what would be the best type of plywood to use? Domestic baltic birch, MDO plywood, bamboo ply, etc?

    #354 1 year ago

    These are the same two cracks, but from inside the cabinet.

    IMG_0262 (resized).JPG

    #355 1 year ago
    Quoted from Hardsuit:

    If you were going to build a new cab from scratch, what would be the best type of plywood to use? Domestic baltic birch, MDO plywood, bamboo ply, etc?

    MDO plywood is the best.

    Ready to paint, no sanding or priming or filling grain - yet still lightweight because it's plywood.

    #356 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    It's probably just overspray.
    Or it could be dieback where the clear shrinks a few days after spraying.
    Either way, block-sand it flat, and then polish to the amount of sheen you desire.

    Just for the sake of sharing my resolution...it was indeed overspray.

    I took a medium grit compound and followed up with a low grit compound on an orbital buffer. Then followed with a polish, and finally wax. Sadly, I saw very little improvement.

    Decided to try something else as I really did not want to have to pull the clear out again and shoot some more. Purchased this:

    amazon.com link »

    After about ten minutes of elbow grease I saw a significant improvement. After 15 minutes (we're just talking the front panel, here) the difference between the sides (slick) and the front (where I suffered from overspray) was hardly detectable.

    I highly recommend trying the clay solution in cases like this. It's cheap, easy, non toxic, and best of all effective!

    #357 1 year ago
    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    I used 1/4" plywood to replace the bottom of an older 80s bally....is that what I should use on a WPC Fish Tales cab as well?

    No. WPC games had 1/2" bottoms.

    #358 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    No. WPC games had 1/2" bottoms.

    Yes, I found out the old fashioned way...I stuck my head under my WH20 and looked.

    #359 1 year ago
    Quoted from Silverstreak02:

    Vid I'm restoring a 1966 Crosstown and have run into a problem with the cabinet. I sanded off the old paint, bonded all the dents, then did primer and white paint. I was happy with the results and decided to let it sit in the house for a few months before I painted the stripes. I should mention this game was on someone's carport when I bought it and then spent a couple of months in my garage during the paint process. It is hot and humid here. After a few weeks in the house I noticed a crack that went all the way through the wood. I attributed it to the wood drying out and decided to let it sit. It's been a couple of months now and the original crack has gotten bigger and another crack has developed. What can I do to fix the cracks and prevent them from getting bigger?

    Does anyone have a solution for this?

    IMG_0261 (resized).JPG

    IMG_0262 (resized).JPG

    #360 1 year ago
    Quoted from Silverstreak02:

    Does anyone have a solution for this?

    I would fill it with bondo and move on.

    #361 1 year ago

    Yeah, if a layer of wood is loose and can be lifted, glue it down and clamp.

    Then just Bondo the crack.

    #362 1 year ago

    Vid, great blog!
    I have a simple (I hope) question. What's the best way to remove the top metal trim from the long side of the cab? What are they fastened down with? Can you reuse the fasteners(nails?), or must they be replaced? If replaced, who has them?
    Any tricks in reattaching them?
    Jim

    #363 1 year ago
    Quoted from mojonitro:

    Vid, great blog!
    I have a simple (I hope) question. What's the best way to remove the top metal trim from the long side of the cab? What are they fastened down with? Can you reuse the fasteners(nails?), or must they be replaced? If replaced, who has them?
    Any tricks in reattaching them?
    Jim

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-side-rails-vids-guide

    #364 1 year ago

    Thanks vid....I almost got it, just need a tad bit of adjustment and it should be perfect...
    some scrap testing...you can see where it comes together on the inside is still a bit off, another slight fence adjustment and I should be good.

    Resized_20171022_142240 (resized).jpeg

    #365 1 year ago
    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    Thanks vid....I almost got it, just need a tad bit of adjustment and it should be perfect...
    some scrap testing...you can see where it comes together on the inside is still a bit off, another slight fence adjustment and I should be good.

    Looking good!

    Once you get it perfect, save 2 perfect scraps from each side, and those become your set up gauges in the future.

    Saves about 15 minutes of BS every time.

    #366 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Looking good!
    Once you get it perfect, save 2 perfect scraps from each side, and those become your set up gauges in the future.
    Saves about 15 minutes of BS every time.

    THIS! Oh, *so* much this! Biggest PITA is getting the fence and depth settings dialed in, and having gauges or previously cut pieces makes your life SO much easier... (Still gonna take a bit, but damn it reduces the pain quotient.)

    1 week later
    #367 1 year ago

    Vid,

    You can see the corner brace is missing on the left. I'm making a replacement to match the one on the right. Would you just nail the replacement brace in or titebond3 or both? The backbox is still pretty sturdy for it's age.

    Also, would you do anything with the top of the backbox in second photo? The rest of the backbox/cabinet paint is still good. I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to improve the top part but keep it as original as possible?

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    IMG_20171103_215907723 (resized).jpg
    IMG_20171103_215932015 (resized).jpg

    #368 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Yes, I'd reglue it with Tightbond3.

    Quoted from vid1900:

    Large cracks you can fill with Wood Epoxy log:

    Cracks under 3mm you can just fill with Bondo.

    Quoted from vid1900:

    You don't have to get too crazy, just remove the loose stuff so it does not flake off inside the house.
    Wire brush, flexible drywall scraper, sandpaper.....just don't breath the dust, or let it blow into your garden.
    Spray some Kilz to lock down the remainder and you are miles ahead of where you were a few minutes before.

    Done, I'm very pleased with the result (and relieved too). Thanks for the advice, Vid.

    Bruce

    IMG_20171103_231806917 (resized).jpg

    #369 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballFever:

    You can see the corner brace is missing on the left. I'm making a replacement to match the one on the right. Would you just nail the replacement brace in or titebond3 or both? The backbox is still pretty sturdy for it's age.

    In cabinetry, nails are just to pin a piece in place until the glue dries. Tightbond3 for sure, followed by an airnail/airstaple or two.

    If you don't have an air stapler or nailer, clamp until the glue is dry.

    Quoted from PinballFever:

    Also, would you do anything with the top of the backbox in second photo? The rest of the backbox/cabinet paint is still good. I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to improve the top part but keep it as original as possible?

    Is this a finish question or structure question?

    #370 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    In cabinetry, nails are just to pin a piece in place until the glue dries.

    I used to be a professional picture framer and know what you mean.

    Quoted from vid1900:

    Is this a finish question or structure question?

    This is a finish question. I don't think the structure is a problem. Should I leave it as is or is there something I can do to improve it? I'd like to keep the original patina as much as I can to match the rest of the game and eventually put some kind of thin light lacquer finish over the cabinet paint to seal/protect it.

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    #371 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballFever:

    Should I leave it as is or is there something I can do to improve it? I'd like to keep the original patina as much as I can to match the rest of the game and eventually put some kind of thin light lacquer finish over the cabinet paint to seal/protect it.

    I'd leave it alone.

    If you keep it in a climate controlled environment from now on, it won't get any worse.

    #372 1 year ago

    OK, I'll leave that part alone.

    Thanks again for your sage advice.

    Bruce

    #373 1 year ago

    I picked up an old Gottlieb Domino that I wanted to use as a first try at cabinet restoration. I got my cabinet sanded and prepped OK. I planned on spraying some Kilz original with an HPVL sprayer. The gun has a 1.7mm needle and I have a 30 gal. compressor with decent flow. The last time I used a sprayer I had sprayed auto primer on a car about ten years ago and figured that heavy auto primer I used then would be comparable to the Kilz. Unfortunately, I didn't get much of a start because I couldn't get the Kilz to spray very well. It kind splattered and didn't come out very well. Paint thinner didn't help much. Any suggestions for thinning Kilz or changing my set up for spraying it. Are most people spraying or rolling this out. Fortunately, I just at the primer stage so mistakes can be sanded away!

    #374 1 year ago
    Quoted from FlipWilson:

    I picked up an old Gottlieb Domino that I wanted to use as a first try at cabinet restoration. I got my cabinet sanded and prepped OK. I planned on spraying some Kilz original with an HPVL sprayer. The gun has a 1.7mm needle and I have a 30 gal. compressor with decent flow. The last time I used a sprayer I had sprayed auto primer on a car about ten years ago and figured that heavy auto primer I used then would be comparable to the Kilz. Unfortunately, I didn't get much of a start because I couldn't get the Kilz to spray very well. It kind splattered and didn't come out very well. Paint thinner didn't help much. Any suggestions for thinning Kilz or changing my set up for spraying it. Are most people spraying or rolling this out. Fortunately, I just at the primer stage so mistakes can be sanded away!

    I sprayed Kilz original through a Harbor freight purple hvlp gun. Just used whatever tip came with it (1.6 maybe) but had to thin the primer quite a bit. I used paint thinner and I think about 40 psi at the gun. It sprayed ok (no splatters or anything) but still didn't seem to flow all that great. Well compared to what I've seen in youtube videos. Nothing else to compare lol.

    #375 1 year ago

    Take the Kilz up to the hardware store and have them put it on the shaker for 10 minutes.

    It should spray out of a HVLP no problem at all, no thinning required.

    #376 1 year ago

    Thanks Feveredpinhead and Vid for your responses. Before I got Vid's response I made an attempt with more thinner and was able to get my cabinet sprayed. I guess I was too conservative on the thinner the first time. However, next time around I'll try the shaker! Thanks again Vid for all the tips on this forum!

    #377 1 year ago

    Spent a lot of time repairing corners.
    Anyone used trunk/speaker box corner protectors on the head?

    Seems like a way to avoid corner damage in the future.

    Comments - Ideas?
    Bud

    Corners (resized).JPG

    #378 1 year ago
    Quoted from Budwin:

    Spent a lot of time repairing corners.
    Anyone used trunk/speaker box corner protectors on the head?
    Seems like a way to avoid corner damage in the future.
    Comments - Ideas?
    Bud

    They'd look cool on some custom wood piece you were making but I'd never put them on a pinball machine.

    #379 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    They'd look cool on some custom wood piece you were making but I'd never put them on a pinball machine.

    Boy I sure wish they’d thought of that back in the day!

    #380 1 year ago

    Vid,

    What's the best way to remove the glue left behind by the cabinet decals? Sand or scrape? Thanks!

    #381 1 year ago
    Quoted from KornFreak28:

    Vid,
    What's the best way to remove the glue left behind by the cabinet decals? Sand or scrape? Thanks!

    Each brand of decal has it's own glue formula, so try a few common solvents and see what kills it.

    Acetone, Mineral Spirits, Lacquer Thinner, MEK

    If it's still sticky, believe it or not WD40 actually makes many decal adhesives roll up into balls.

    #382 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Each brand of decal has it's own glue formula, so try a few common solvents and see what kills it.
    Acetone, Mineral Spirits, Lacquer Thinner, MEK
    If it's still sticky, believe it or not WD40 actually makes many decal adhesives roll up into balls.

    Thanks for the tip! I got the cabinet stripped and will start making repairs to it. Amazingly, the cabinet is in very good shape. There is no cabinet separation or big chunks of wood missing. I only have a few minor areas that need repairs. Is bondo difficult to sand?

    #383 1 year ago
    Quoted from KornFreak28:

    Thanks for the tip! I got the cabinet stripped and will start making repairs to it. Amazingly, the cabinet is in very good shape. There is no cabinet separation or big chunks of wood missing. I only have a few minor areas that need repairs. Is bondo difficult to sand?

    If it's regular Bondo, it's not too bad - similar to wood epoxy ("wood weld"), but if its the Bondo Fiberglass which you use on corners... it can be a bastard to get sanded down perfectly!

    #384 1 year ago
    Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

    If it's regular Bondo, it's not too bad - similar to wood epoxy ("wood weld"), but if its the Bondo Fiberglass which you use on corners... it can be a bastard to get sanded down perfectly!

    I was thinking of using car bondo....

    #385 1 year ago

    Car bondo is easy to sand.

    #386 1 year ago

    Structure question to be sure before I glue in the new wood braces for good.

    The backbox seems strong enough for it's age when I wiggle and test it even if it's a little warped on the bottom from drinks being spilled over the years.

    Anything else I should do other than gluing the wood braces in and calling it a day?

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    IMG_20171120_191159014 (resized).jpg

    #387 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballFever:

    Structure question to be sure before I glue in the new wood braces for good.
    The backbox seems strong enough for it's age when I wiggle and test it even if it's a little warped on the bottom from drinks being spilled over the years.
    Anything else I should do other than gluing the wood braces in and calling it a day?

    Sand slightly under the braces so you can open up the wood fibers for gluing.

    Make sure you keep the box square as the glue dries - very important.

    #388 1 year ago

    Will do. Should I unbolt and remove the head before doing this?

    The new braces are going in the middle bottom corners where they're supposed to go. The top braces are already in the correct middle position and will be left alone.

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    #389 1 year ago

    If you use your table saw as a gluing base, you will be certain that you have a SQUARE set up.

    #390 1 year ago

    I don't have a table saw or equipment like that. I can use angles to be sure it's square when I glue the bottom braces in unless you suggest a different solution.

    Would you recommend 400 or 600 grit wood sandpaper for sanding where the braces will be glued?

    Bruce

    #391 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballFever:

    I don't have a table saw or equipment like that. I can use angles to be sure it's square when I glue the bottom braces in unless you suggest a different solution.

    That will work, just make sure it's square before the glue sets.

    Quoted from PinballFever:

    Would you recommend 400 or 600 grit wood sandpaper for sanding where the braces will be glued?

    120 or 220 grit, you need to open those ancient wood pores to let the glue in.

    Just sand under the joint, so it does not look like you worked on it when dry.

    You can use a brace as a sanding block and get both sides at once.

    #392 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    That will work, just make sure it's square before the glue sets.

    I'll check and make sure the box is square and get back to you on what to do if it isn't.

    Quoted from vid1900:

    You can use a brace as a sanding block and get both sides at once.

    You mean wrap one of the new wood corner braces with sandpaper and use it to sand that area? I'm thinking that it would sand too wide an area to cover with the new wood brace unless I misunderstand you.

    Bruce

    #393 1 year ago

    I wanted to clarify that I was planning to leave the two top braces alone unless you recommend I also replace or re-glue them. The original plan was to reposition the bottom right brace and put in a new brace where the missing brace should be on the left bottom.

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    Top backbox braces (resized).jpg

    #394 1 year ago

    vid1900 Is there a secret to spraying a "perfect" coat of PPG 2PAC?

    Every time I do a cabinet, I end up with a few runs on a panel or two which result in more sanding and reclearing. It's time consuming and expensive.

    I feel like it is incredibly hard to get a smooth surface and find the balance between not enough coverage and ending up with runs. Putting the cabinet on a rotisserie helps... as the sides are flat, although one can still have issues with the front of the cab (particularly if the rotisserie leg blocks art that goes all around the coin door) and the sides of the back box.

    I have plenty of lighting, but with eye protection and the mist from spraying it can be hard to really gauge with your eyes the "thickness" of your coat while you work.

    Any insight or tips you can share are appreciated!

    Yours truly,

    "Enemy or Orange Peel and Hater of Runs".

    #395 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    You can use a brace as a sanding block and get both sides at once.

    Quoted from PinballFever:

    You mean wrap one of the new wood corner braces with sandpaper and use it to sand that area? I'm thinking that it would sand too wide an area to cover with the new wood brace unless I misunderstand you.

    Nm, I get the "both sides at once" reference. I'll use a shorter brace to do this.

    I used a square and confirmed the box is perfectly square. Will proceed with sanding and gluing the braces in.

    I'm also planning to do a light sanding of the backbox bottom with 400 grit sandpaper to clean up some of the crud from drinks spilled over the years.

    Thanks again, I don't know what we'd do without your guides and help. (probably end up putting off or never doing what we should be doing with our games due to lack of knowledge/experience)
    Bruce

    #396 1 year ago
    Quoted from xeneize:

    vid1900 Is there a secret to spraying a "perfect" coat of PPG 2PAC?

    Every time I do a cabinet, I end up with a few runs on a panel or two which result in more sanding and reclearing. It's time consuming and expensive.

    Any time you get a run, it tells you that you have sprayed on too much clear, too fast.

    2PAC dries so fast, spray two thin coats 20 minutes apart, rather than flood coating and running.

    Or if you really want to lay down heavy coats, do only one panel at a time, face up. 20 minutes latter, turn the rotisserie 180* and do the other side.

    #397 1 year ago

    Has anyone here built a rotisserie for cabinets?....would love to see some ideas for this as it seems like a great way to lay/paint stencils and clear.

    #398 1 year ago

    Regular playfield rotisserie is easily adapted to cab use, or guitar finishing, or.....

    If you think about it, the "black pipe rotisserie" plans came from a cabinet refinishing book in the 1990s.

    #399 1 year ago
    Quoted from Stretch7:

    Has anyone here built a rotisserie for cabinets?....would love to see some ideas for this as it seems like a great way to lay/paint stencils and clear.

    Like this, plate on front and metal stand offs on back side to separate the stand from the work piece.

    Bud

    PimpedCab (resized).JPG

    #400 1 year ago
    Quoted from Budwin:

    Like this, plate on front and metal stand offs on back side to separate the stand from the work piece.

    Bud

    Show the back on that thing! Need to see what you are referring to.
    Mike

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 209.99
    $ 9.95
    Apparel - Unisex
    Pinball Wheezer
    $ 35.00
    Cabinet - Decals
    Pinball Haus
    $ 10.95
    $ 5,999.00
    Pinball Machine
    Nitro Pinball Shop
    $ 200.00
    Lighting - Interactive
    Professor Pinball
    $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 119.95
    Boards
    Allteksystems
    From: $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 60.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Docquest Pinball Mods
    $ 200.00
    Lighting - Interactive
    Professor Pinball
    $ 44.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    PinWorlds
    From: $ 5,799.00
    Pinball Machine
    Flip N Out Pinball
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 5,799.00
    Pinball Machine
    Operation Pinball
    $ 10.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 129.00
    Displays
    Pappy's Pinball Palace
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 55.00
    Gameroom - Decorations
    Pinball Photos
    $ 90.00
    Lighting - Under Cabinet
    Rock Custom Pinball
    $ 100.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lermods
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    From: $ 220.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    CzTV Mods
    There are 561 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 12.

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside