(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide

By vid1900

8 years ago


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    There are 959 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 20.
    #901 1 year ago
    Quoted from reconsider59:

    My thought is that I can sand down the messed up layers of spraypaint on there, do one quick coat of automotive primer for a new base, then proceed normally.

    I had two instances of needing to fix paint issues after stenciling....one being an accident in the garage where a shelf fell and damaged the cabinet (after the stenciling was done!) and the other I still don't know exactly what happened, but some base paint came up pulling off the stencil despite a week's cure time before stenciling.

    Both repairs came out "ok" and look fine in a nominally lit room. But if you shine a flashlight on it from the right angle, you can see the slight difference in paint shade. If I run into a situation like this again, I think I'd bite the bullet, strip everything off, and re-do the whole side.

    Cabinet
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1980-black-knight-player-s-condition-to-something-better/page/2#post-7052623

    Backbox:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1980-black-knight-player-s-condition-to-something-better/page/2#post-7159202

    #902 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mathazar:

    I had two instances of needing to fix paint issues after stenciling....one being an accident in the garage where a shelf fell and damaged the cabinet (after the stenciling was done!) and the other I still don't know exactly what happened, but some base paint came up pulling off the stencil despite a week's cure time before stenciling.
    Both repairs came out "ok" and look fine in a nominally lit room. But if you shine a flashlight on it from the right angle, you can see the slight difference in paint shade. If I run into a situation like this again, I think I'd bite the bullet, strip everything off, and re-do the whole side.
    Cabinet
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1980-black-knight-player-s-condition-to-something-better/page/2#post-7052623
    Backbox:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1980-black-knight-player-s-condition-to-something-better/page/2#post-7159202

    Yeah, I'm definitely going to re-do the whole thing. I tried some fixes, but there was bleed, and the difference was really obvious to my eye. I'm not super-picky on cabinets, but it's a scratch-build and my first attempt at doing any sort of painting/cabinetry, so I'm of the mind that if I'm going to do it, I really need to do it right.

    Once more unto the breach!

    1 week later
    #903 1 year ago

    None of my stencils pulled up paint, not even a speck. I started with the backbox, and pulled them fairly soon after painting. Got some bleed when I did that. As we progressed through each stencil, I started leaving them on longer after painting. By the end of the process, ten stencils altogether, I was leaving them on for several hours after painting. For me, it cut down on the bleed over. For some reason, I had the most problems with yellow. Don't know why, that's just how it worked out.

    As Stretch7 said, depends on how bad the area is, and also how much area it covers. Use frisket, or whatever you prefer, mask it off really good, prep it and re-touch. It's tedious, but unless it's really messed up, might be overkill to redo the whole thing, not to mention the cost of a new set of stencils.

    #904 1 year ago

    How to fix screw holes in decals ?

    Hi Pinside, seeking your collective wisdom on this.

    My STTNG arrived. It is mostly in better condition that I thought, and is cleaning up quite nicely.

    I was going to redo the cabinet with new decals, but no longer will, as they are mostly in great condition, and being original, are screen printed.

    Below are photos, left side - mostly excellent, right side has some minor issues with screw holes (see enlarged sun photo as example).

    Right Side headbox decal destroyed, so that will get replaced.

    The advice I am looking for;
    1 - how would you repair the screw holes so they fade away ?
    2 - do I leave the engraved serial # as part of its heritage ? see 4th photo

    Appreciate your thoughts.

    As an fyi, I sourced new legs.

    Thanks,
    Steve

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    #905 1 year ago

    If it was my machine, I would leave the serial numbers. Even with our repainting of Fireball recently, I didn't repair the wood, for instance, some really worn out spots on the front of the backbox below the back glass. They just got worn down from fifty years of use. Cleaned em up as best I could, and repainted. We kind of like the used look, character marks over a long life I guess

    Now, wood rot, or severe wood damage, that's a different story.

    But that's just our/my preference. Mileage definitely will vary.

    #906 1 year ago

    For any of this thread's reference to Titebond III glue, is there a reason to use this glue rather than some type of 'Liquid Nails'? Isn't Liquid Nails stronger?

    #907 1 year ago

    If your not going too do decals I would just leave it over the years trying to fix that most times u just make it worst then what it is now

    #908 1 year ago
    Quoted from Steve100:

    How to fix screw holes in decals ?
    Hi Pinside, seeking your collective wisdom on this.
    My STTNG arrived. It is mostly in better condition that I thought, and is cleaning up quite nicely.
    I was going to redo the cabinet with new decals, but no longer will, as they are mostly in great condition, and being original, are screen printed.
    Below are photos, left side - mostly excellent, right side has some minor issues with screw holes (see enlarged sun photo as example).
    Right Side headbox decal destroyed, so that will get replaced.
    The advice I am looking for;
    1 - how would you repair the screw holes so they fade away ?
    2 - do I leave the engraved serial # as part of its heritage ? see 4th photo
    Appreciate your thoughts.
    As an fyi, I sourced new legs.
    Thanks,
    Steve
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Put a screw in each hole, paint the heads black.

    No one will notice them and it will look factory.

    #909 1 year ago

    I agree with leaving the serial number alone but for the hole, it should be a pretty easy fix. I would carefully sand/deburr it, plug with epoxy putty and the man sand smooth. The paint repair can be done with a very fine point brush just laying down dots to replicate the silkscreen. I did this on my AFM as a total newbie and it turned out ok. I bought a little set of water based oil paints that mixed very easily and I was able to match the colour pretty well. If you look closely you can see the difference but if you don’t know it’s there, it blends right in. My colour match wasn’t perfect but for a first attempt I was happy. With the size of repair you are doing it will be invisible.
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    #910 1 year ago
    Quoted from reconsider59:

    My thought is that I can sand down the messed up layers of spraypaint on there, do one quick coat of automotive primer for a new base, then proceed normally.

    If you’re able to safely shoot automotive primer, automotive paints are a pleasure to work with. Dries instantly, and they bite into the layer under them, so you can remove stencils immediately with no paint tearing. Semigloss clearcoat on top and you have a very professional end product.

    #911 1 year ago
    Quoted from bayoubilly70:

    is there a reason to use this glue rather than some type of 'Liquid Nails'? Isn't Liquid Nails stronger?

    Totally depends what you are doing.

    If you are repairing wood - such as, say, a splintered off piece of plywood that you want to glue back on - PVA glue (any of the Titebond ones) will work very, very well, provided you can get the pieces set cleanly and without voids.

    Liquid Nails is great for things like glueing back a little corner block to the bottom panel of the cabinet (which you want to also pop a new staple or two into) or running a bead of glue around the bottom panel where it sits in the dado of the cabinet body. It’ll bond different things (like solid wood and fiber board) and will fill small gaps nicely.

    “Kitty Hair” is a really useful filler when you need a bit of structure in a damaged area but don’t need to build back as much mass as Vid shows in his example of restoring a broken off corner. It’s a fiberglass resin which is thick, not syrupy, and has shredded fiberglass mixed in. It’s a nice thing to use to toughen up the exposed bottom edges of the cabinet plywood.

    #912 1 year ago
    Quoted from Deleenhe:

    If you look closely you can see the difference but if you don’t know it’s there, it blends right in. My colour match wasn’t perfect but for a first attempt I was happy.

    Very nicely done!

    #913 1 year ago

    is there a write up on replacing the back and lower panels on the lower cab of 80s bally/sterns? got a few games local that could use some replacements, never really done cabinet repair so any help would be appreciated.

    #914 1 year ago

    @deleenhe, how did you avoid brush strokes. I would rather brush paint when I can, especially small areas, but I have never been able to get that smooth look. I know it's possible, but I do believe that technique was not included in my talent pool

    #915 1 year ago

    When I'm doing repairs on badly damaged cabinets, I use 2 part epoxy. No polyester resins. Learned this when building boats years ago.
    It's a bit more expensive and harder to work with, but it bonds so much better. I just use tape to overfill the area, then and it down to a crisp corner. Works great. I use wood flour or other fillers sometimes, but it's usually straight epoxy.

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    #916 1 year ago
    Quoted from jlbintn:

    Deleenhe, how did you avoid brush strokes. I would rather brush paint when I can, especially small areas, but I have never been able to get that smooth look. I know it's possible, but I do believe that technique was not included in my talent pool

    With that paint I found it went on pretty smooth with no visible brush strokes and once you add the dots on top anything underneath just blends in.

    #917 1 year ago
    Quoted from ThatOneDude:

    When I'm doing repairs on badly damaged cabinets, I use 2 part epoxy. No polyester resins. Learned this when building boats years ago.
    It's a bit more expensive and harder to work with, but it bonds so much better. I just use tape to overfill the area, then and it down to a crisp corner. Works great. I use wood flour or other fillers sometimes, but it's usually straight epoxy.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Similar to the casting resin solution that Vid posted.

    #918 1 year ago
    Quoted from jlbintn:

    If it was my machine, I would leave the serial numbers. Even with our repainting of Fireball recently, I didn't repair the wood, for instance, some really worn out spots on the front of the backbox below the back glass. They just got worn down from fifty years of use. Cleaned em up as best I could, and repainted. We kind of like the used look, character marks over a long life I guess
    Now, wood rot, or severe wood damage, that's a different story.
    But that's just our/my preference. Mileage definitely will vary.

    Thank you. Serial number will stay. No rot or wood damage, so all good there.

    Cheers

    #919 1 year ago
    Quoted from Williampinball:

    If your not going too do decals I would just leave it over the years trying to fix that most times u just make it worst then what it is now

    Thank you. I will trial once hole 1st and see how I go. Cheers

    #920 1 year ago

    I agree with leaving the serial number alone but for the hole, it should be a pretty easy fix. I would carefully sand/deburr it, plug with epoxy putty and the man sand smooth. The paint repair can be done with a very fine point brush just laying down dots to replicate the silkscreen. I did this on my AFM as a total newbie and it turned out ok. I bought a little set of water based oil paints that mixed very easily and I was able to match the colour pretty well. If you look closely you can see the difference but if you don’t know it’s there, it blends right in. My colour match wasn’t perfect but for a first attempt I was happy. With the size of repair you are doing it will be invisible.

    Some excellent advice thank you. You did an excellent job on AFM repairs. Hope my paint matching skills can be as good. I guess I should be good on the black….

    Whilst a do want a beautiful looking pin, there is a lot to be said for keeping it as original as possible.

    Cheers

    #921 1 year ago
    Quoted from Deleenhe:I agree with leaving the serial number alone but for the hole, it should be a pretty easy fix. I would carefully sand/deburr it, plug with epoxy putty and the man sand smooth. The paint repair can be done with a very fine point brush just laying down dots to replicate the silkscreen. I did this on my AFM as a total newbie and it turned out ok. I bought a little set of water based oil paints that mixed very easily and I was able to match the colour pretty well. If you look closely you can see the difference but if you don’t know it’s there, it blends right in. My colour match wasn’t perfect but for a first attempt I was happy. With the size of repair you are doing it will be invisible.
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]

    Some excellent advice thank you. You did an excellent job on AFM repairs. Hope my paint matching skills can be as good. I guess I should be good on the black….

    Whilst a do want a beautiful looking pin, there is a lot to be said for keeping it as original as possible.

    Cheers

    #922 1 year ago

    Folks - I have looked for about 30 min (so limited search) for any reference to what black cabinet base coat to use. I have an Addams Family cabinet that has a lot of worn areas (just needs some paint) and 2 large chunks on the top cabinet (will need to be filled and sanded) that I need to repair and am looking for something I can spray with an compressor airbrush. Any thoughts for a single stage option that is readily avail?

    1 week later
    #923 1 year ago

    Anyone have a tip on getting the collar off a Bally Harlem Globetrotters? I pulled the 6 long nails that I thought were holding it on but it still won't come off. Is it glued on as well? If so I will just put some screws back in instead of the nails and try to sand it and paint as best I can with the collar on.

    1 month later
    #924 1 year ago

    Hi everyone, I scoured this thread and I can’t seem to find an answer to this but I’m testing my paints on a piece of spare wood before applying to my freshly primed cabinet. I’ve laid down a gloss enamel (white) with my HVLP, let that dry for a few days then sprayed a few different colour patches over the white. Left that to dry for 12 hours then took a scotchbrite pad to it (lightly!) just to scuff it up before I put down a 2 pac auto clear. Problem is: the colours have run into the white base coat while scuffing it. This is obviously not what I want to happen. Any suggestions ? I’m not sure if it’s because I didn’t leave the colours to dry long enough before using the scotchbrite. Appreciate your input and suggestions

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    #925 1 year ago

    Clean it up with tack cloths, that’s totally normal and acceptable.

    1 month later
    #926 1 year ago

    Could use some suggestions on repairing the lower lip of the head for a Mr and Mrs Pacman pinball machine. The wood is missing. Probably a long shot to find someone parting out a water logged machine with trash cabinet that I could salvage this piece off of. If I'm not mistaken it is probably the same as Centaur II, Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition, and Rapid Fire. It is a shame that this part is missing since the rest of the cabinet and game should clean up.

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    #927 1 year ago
    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    Could use some suggestions on repairing the lower lip of the head for a Mr and Mrs Pacman pinball machine. The wood is missing. Probably a long shot to find someone parting out a water logged machine with trash cabinet that I could salvage this piece off of. If I'm not mistaken it is probably the same as Centaur II, Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition, and Rapid Fire. It is a shame that this part is missing since the rest of the cabinet and game should clean up.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    That should be pretty easy to replace - just measure and cut to fit w/ a table saw. Glue and finishing nails to set it, sink the nails below the wood with setters and cover edge gaps with wood filler you can sand smooth like you would with door or floor trim. Wood filler/bondo for any gaps. Honestly, it's easier to replace a big piece like that than to make solid corners imo. Least the corners are still there!

    #928 1 year ago
    Quoted from Ollulanus:

    That should be pretty easy to replace - just measure and cut to fit w/ a table saw. Glue and finishing nails to set it, sink the nails below the wood with setters and cover edge gaps with wood filler you can sand smooth like you would with door or floor trim. Wood filler/bondo for any gaps. Honestly, it's easier to replace a big piece like that than to make solid corners imo. Least the corners are still there!

    I hope so! Have a friend stopping by this evening that does a lot of wood work and has most of the tools needed. After this I just need to get a set of legs, new drop targets, and a ring kit. Tracked down the rest of the parts I needed and looking forward to getting this to run and play again.

    1 week later
    #929 1 year ago

    Hi all,

    After making A LOT of mistakes, I ended up getting a decent finish on my cabinets with a 2 pac auto white (ratio 2 to 1 paint to hardener). I have some pinball pimp stencils and I’m wondering if I’m able to paint directly over the 2 pac white with the colours (also auto paint) I’ll be using for the stencils? My other option and what I’ve seen others do, is put down a layer of clear over the base then sand that with 800 grit before laying down the next colour

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    #930 1 year ago
    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    Could use some suggestions on repairing the lower lip of the head for a Mr and Mrs Pacman pinball machine. The wood is missing. Probably a long shot to find someone parting out a water logged machine with trash cabinet that I could salvage this piece off of. If I'm not mistaken it is probably the same as Centaur II, Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition, and Rapid Fire. It is a shame that this part is missing since the rest of the cabinet and game should clean up.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Pity, I have a mint head I could have brought to Allentown.

    #931 1 year ago

    Does anyone have a copy of the Pinball Pimp instructions handy, Im prepping a cab now and just want to make sure Im understanding everything before I get too deep into priming and the colors.

    #932 1 year ago
    Quoted from ibis:

    Does anyone have a copy of the Pinball Pimp instructions handy, Im prepping a cab now and just want to make sure Im understanding everything before I get too deep into priming and the colors.

    Hey Ibis - I emailed you the PDF (the version from 2020....I don't think they've changed since then).

    #933 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mathazar:

    Hey Ibis - I emailed you the PDF (the version from 2020....I don't think they've changed since then).

    Got it, thanks!!

    2 months later
    #934 9 months ago

    I've just finished a pretty good, but not 100% restore on an Addams. Now I'm ready to go full goofball. I have a basket case Taxi and I've spent this weekend disassembling the backbox so I can do repairs.

    There is damage where the clasp bracket attaches at the bottom of the box. What's the best strategy here? Should I cut a rectangular area away, insert some dowels or something, and go full resin? Or is there a way to repair damage like this and retain strength?

    The delaminated corners I assume require resin, and I also assume I should peel away bits that are delaminated but holding on?

    I have one corner with gap, but I'm pretty sure it's factory. Might still fill it.

    Pictures incoming shortly - it's easier to type stuff on the computer than on the phone.

    #935 9 months ago
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    1 week later
    #936 9 months ago

    The clasp area is a tough call, I'd probably pry open up that break a little, squeeze a bunch of Titebond3 in there and clamp it.

    For the corners I'd excavate the loose stuff, drill some holes and also sink small wood screws (to give something for the epoxy to hold on to), then epoxy fill.

    Edit: the epoxy repair option is if you don't want to replace that side entirely.

    #937 9 months ago

    Looking for opinions:

    Working on a Solids N Stripes and the cabinet back particle board bottom edge was destroyed. I rebuilt it with epoxy thinking the rough edge of the particle board would give the epoxy something good to hold on to.

    Not sure about the longevity of the repair though because that area gets abused when standing it up.

    Good or should I be looking to cut out and replace the lower edge?

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    #938 9 months ago
    Quoted from EvanDickson:

    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    I'd probably just build a new head because I think it would be quicker. But, if I were repairing this, I would replace the back and then glue everything up nice and tight, finish according to instructions in this thread (resin bad corners, etc).

    #939 9 months ago
    Quoted from radium:

    I'd probably just build a new head because I think it would be quicker. But, if I were repairing this, I would replace the back and then glue everything up nice and tight, finish according to instructions in this thread (resin bad corners, etc).

    If I had anywhere to make a woodworking shop, I'd definitely do this.

    I posed the question on the facebook group and the best consensus I had was to use Bondo fiberglass resin, which I'm part way through doing. I was going to route out the damaged bit in the back, repair roughly with wood and use fiberglass as a leveller, but I did some experimentation and find that the fiberglass can hold a screw great as long as a pilot hole is drilled, so I'll probably route out the area in an upside down triangle and fill. Will post pics when done.

    #940 9 months ago

    I have replaced a particle board back on my Gay 90's (with baltic birch plywood) so it is doable. Not the simplest job but it can be done.

    #941 9 months ago
    Quoted from Barr993:

    Looking for opinions:
    Working on a Solids N Stripes and the cabinet back particle board bottom edge was destroyed. I rebuilt it with epoxy thinking the rough edge of the particle board would give the epoxy something good to hold on to.
    Not sure about the longevity of the repair though because that area gets abused when standing it up.
    Good or should I be looking to cut out and replace the lower edge?
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    That lower edge is the most likely one to break a repair as you say when standing it up. My repair for that particle board is to harden the edge with wood hardener (basically thin CA glue poured into the "grain" and when cured it is much stronger). The sink some raised screws into the edge and pour epoxy on to build it up again. But in that location where the machine might be sitting on that edge I could see doing a partial panel replacement, take out the bottom 4 inches of panel, put in a much stronger plywood panel and do a join using angled screws along the mated edge. But at that point you could just pull out the whole panel.

    #942 9 months ago

    Thought about replacing the whole back and gave it a bunch of good whacks with a big hammer but it didn't separate anywhere so it would be some work to get out.

    I'll cut out the bottom and replace, using either dowels or biscuits. Curious to see how the <3/4 plywood is going to match up with the >3/4 particle board.

    2 months later
    #943 7 months ago

    I would like some advice on what to do with this one please? The rest of the cabinet is in very good shape. Looks like it has been stored (and dragged around) on its back for a while. Thankfully the back box is hinged, so it is also in decent shape.

    The last photo shows a nail. There is one each side. I am assuming that they do not belong there.

    Thanks

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    #944 7 months ago

    Personally, I would remove the loose bits, make some dams from tape and plastic and fill these with epoxy. That's how I fix issues like this.

    1 week later
    #945 6 months ago

    It's unfortunate to hear about the paint issues you've encountered during your stenciling projects. Sometimes, unexpected accidents can happen, and it's good to hear that your repairs turned out 'ok' and look fine in most lighting conditions. If you ever face a similar situation in the future and want to ensure a seamless finish, you might consider using a high-quality primer like dapco 1-100 primer. This can provide a solid base and help with paint adhesion, potentially reducing the chances of issues like paint shade differences. Ultimately, the decision to strip and redo a whole side would depend on your preference and the extent of the imperfections. It's great to have options available to achieve the finish you desire.

    2 weeks later
    #946 6 months ago

    G'day guys,

    I'd be super grateful if someone could share their process for building a cabinet base and trim. The trim in particular has me stumped (get it??). I went to Bunnings and got a piece of MDF cut to size for the base but the rest is a mystery. Here are some pictures of my cabinet. Any guidance would be appreciated. And before you ask, I have considered getting one built but seeing I am going to do more restorations in the future, I figure it would be a handy skill to possess. I have a circular saw, drill and jigsaw, however I dont have a router ... yet.

    Thank you!

    PB CAB 1 (resized).jpgPB CAB 1 (resized).jpgPB CAB 2 (resized).jpgPB CAB 2 (resized).jpgPB CAB 3 (resized).jpgPB CAB 3 (resized).jpgPB CAB 4 (resized).jpgPB CAB 4 (resized).jpg
    #947 6 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    I've been waiting for a warped bottom to come in so I could take some pics.
    Rout off 2 of the bottom lips from the cab, then just stand on the bottom, so it drops out.
    Use the old bottom for a template, and cut a new one from 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood (Menards).
    Use 2 pieces of wood "Window Screen Molding" to replace the lost lips.

    Need to tackle this to remove some of the rotten wood bottom. This is a stinky Meteor cabinet.

    What size/type of router bit to use? Any more detail or pics available?

    Also, can just the front portion with the damage (by the coin door up to the cross piece) be replaced? Seems to be a double layer there (particle board and plywood). Need to replace with a double layer?

    IMG_1133 (resized).jpegIMG_1133 (resized).jpegIMG_1135 (resized).jpegIMG_1135 (resized).jpeg
    #948 6 months ago
    Quoted from joshmc:

    G'day guys,
    I'd be super grateful if someone could share their process for building a cabinet base and trim. The trim in particular has me stumped (get it??). I went to Bunnings and got a piece of MDF cut to size for the base but the rest is a mystery. Here are some pictures of my cabinet. Any guidance would be appreciated. And before you ask, I have considered getting one built but seeing I am going to do more restorations in the future, I figure it would be a handy skill to possess. I have a circular saw, drill and jigsaw, however I dont have a router ... yet.
    Thank you!
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Josh,
    I'm thinking, that you are thinking, that the base has a piece of trim around the bottom holding it in place.

    That is not the case. The bottom of the cabinet is assembled into a groove that is cut in the side, front and back of the cabinet.

    The part you have in the first photo is just the plywood below the groove cut in the front of the cab.

    At this point you need to clean away what remains (below the bottom) of the sides/back/front and cut some strips to glue/nail into place. you need to clean away these plywood remnants so you will have a good surface to glue the strips to. you can do this with a router , or with a sanding block.

    I usually glue the bottom in and focus on making sure the cabinet stays square. Then after the bottom dries you can focus on installing the Strips.

    Before you put in the new bottom, you want to transfer all the holes/slots form the old bottom to the new bottom. also transfer the block for the speaker and the switch.

    MAking the strips is best done with a table saw. Do you have friend that has one? let him do them for you. Table saw can be dangerous for the newbie.

    If your new to the router that can be tricky for the newbie also.

    Attached is a drawing of side of a Williams cabinet. the bally cab you have has a similar groove towards the bottom.

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    #949 6 months ago

    The reason i leave the strips for last is that when you glue the bottom in you need to make sure the cabinet stays square and also that the sides stay straight, Don't bow inward/outward.

    When you get that together, if you have time try and remove excess glue from the area you will later install the strips. It is easier with a damp cloth than with a sanding block.

    #950 6 months ago
    Quoted from BobLangelius:

    Josh,
    I'm thinking, that you are thinking, that the base has a piece of trim around the bottom holding it in place.
    That is not the case. The bottom of the cabinet is assembled into a groove that is cut in the side, front and back of the cabinet.
    The part you have in the first photo is just the plywood below the groove cut in the front of the cab.
    At this point you need to clean away what remains (below the bottom) of the sides/back/front and cut some strips to glue/nail into place. you need to clean away these plywood remnants so you will have a good surface to glue the strips to. you can do this with a router , or with a sanding block.
    I usually glue the bottom in and focus on making sure the cabinet stays square. Then after the bottom dries you can focus on installing the Strips.
    Before you put in the new bottom, you want to transfer all the holes/slots form the old bottom to the new bottom. also transfer the block for the speaker and the switch.
    MAking the strips is best done with a table saw. Do you have friend that has one? let him do them for you. Table saw can be dangerous for the newbie.
    If your new to the router that can be tricky for the newbie also.
    Attached is a drawing of side of a Williams cabinet. the bally cab you have has a similar groove towards the bottom.
    [quoted image]

    Thanks Bob. Appreciate your advice here. In terms of ensuring the cabinet is square once the base has been installed, I'm assuming you do that with a level? What type of wood do you recommend for the base and the strips?

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