(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide

By vid1900

8 years ago


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    #751 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lovef2k:

    I'm getting close to D day, decals that is. For painting the cab edges, is Rustoleum okay to use for this. Or should I use something acrylic?
    The cab side are sanded to bare wood but I have a few spots of bondo, can the decal be placed directly over or do they need to be sealed as well? I'm trying to keep the surface as flat as possible. I also have rapid prep and rapid tack on hand.

    You have to completely primer the cabinet to hide the bondo spots.

    They will show thru.

    Everything shows with decals.

    Kilz originsl oil based primer, either sprayed or rolled/brushed on.

    They also have it in rattle can.

    2 coats sanded between, works good enough.

    After primer and final sanding.

    Then paint the edges and holes and rear of the backbox and lower cabinet black or whatever color you are using.

    Sand diwn any paint to primer transitions.

    Rustoleum is a good paint just takes a while to dry hard.

    Use tack rags a lot before decals.

    Lightly sand any imperfections and break any paint lines.

    #752 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    You have to completely primer the cabinet to hide the bondo spots.
    They will show thru.
    Everything shows with decals.
    Kilz originsl oil based primer, either sprayed or rolled/brushed on.
    They also have it in rattle can.
    2 coats sanded between, works good enough.
    After primer and final sanding.
    Then paint the edges and holes and rear of the backbox and lower cabinet black or whatever color you are using.
    Sand diwn any paint to primer transitions.
    Rustoleum is a good paint just takes a while to dry hard.
    Use tack rags a lot before decals.
    Lightly sand any imperfections and break any paint lines.

    Got it thanks! I forgot all about the kilz. The good thing is that I have minimal Bondo. I just had to fix some small chipped edges. The cab was in great shape to start with. Removal of the decals from the head was more harsh. I pulled up some of the flake board when I should have used a heat gun or simply sanded them off. This was my first decal removal job, so live and learn.

    #753 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lovef2k:

    The cab side are sanded to bare wood but I have a few spots of bondo, can the decal be placed directly over or do they need to be sealed as well? I'm trying to keep the surface as flat as possible. I also have rapid prep and rapid tack on hand.

    I prime and paint the whole surface where the decals go but that is my routine. I have also done the decals dry since my first decal failure using rapitac 15 years ago on Addams Family. 2 decals just had bubbles appear. I’m sure it was my fault and many swear by the wet method but Bryan Kelly used to have a video I think that convinced me to try it and I’ve done it ever since. If you line up and go slow it is virtually like putting on stencils or a hardtop.i use a kitty litter box to hold them in place after I triple check the alignment.

    Good luck either way

    #754 2 years ago
    Quoted from KJL:

    I prime and paint the whole surface where the decals go but that is my routine. I have also done the decals dry since my first decal failure using rapitac 15 years ago on Addams Family. 2 decals just had bubbles appear. I’m sure it was my fault and many swear by the wet method but Bryan Kelly used to have a video I think that convinced me to try it and I’ve done it ever since. If you line up and go slow it is virtually like putting on stencils or a hardtop.i use a kitty litter box to hold them in place after I triple check the alignment.
    Good luck either way

    Thanks, I'll probably do the dry method. And I think you're right, like laying stencils. Once you have them set and weighted, the rest is just patients.

    #755 2 years ago

    To add to my previous post, the other night I stepped into the house literally for 2 minutes and it started to drizzle and in this very brief moment the wood started to raise where it got wet. If this were a plywood cab I would feel more comfortable using the wet method.

    #756 2 years ago
    Quoted from KJL:

    I prime and paint the whole surface where the decals go but that is my routine. I have also done the decals dry since my first decal failure using rapitac 15 years ago on Addams Family. 2 decals just had bubbles appear. I’m sure it was my fault and many swear by the wet method but Bryan Kelly used to have a video I think that convinced me to try it and I’ve done it ever since. If you line up and go slow it is virtually like putting on stencils or a hardtop.i use a kitty litter box to hold them in place after I triple check the alignment.
    Good luck either way

    This is one of the best "dry method" videos out there.


    Wally

    #757 2 years ago

    What's the safest way to remove glue stringers from decals? The material is Orafol.

    #758 2 years ago

    I was able to remove glue from edges by rubbing with fingers. I may try some some mineral spirits to get the stubborn stuff. The decals were old, I had them lying flat for over 5 years, so I guess that's why the glue did this.

    The decals are done finally. All in all I'm happy with the results. The backbox was the hardest. Trimming w razors wasn't fun and proved to be more difficult than I expected. Guys on YouTube make it look so easy!

    On the last decal left side of backbox I was getting tired and didn't want to trim with a blade. This game has rounded corners. But since it uses T molding I wasn't too worried about the edged lifting.

    I grew a set and took the sanding block w 220 grit paper and tried the HEP way and dammit if didn't it work! It was kind of fun once I got the hang of it. I had ordered the Sharpie oil pens ahead of time and going over the white areas was easier to do than expected.

    Pics coming later. Agent GK is heading to Pinfest tomorrow!

    #759 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lovef2k:

    The decals are done finally. All in all I'm happy with the results. The backbox was the hardest. Trimming w razors wasn't fun and proved to be more difficult than I expected. Guys on YouTube make it look so easy!

    I wonder if this is the decal material or the edge on that cabinet is not smooth. I have never done this era of game with t molding. But on IPB, Phoenix Arcade and this new 2nd gen decals with a utility knife you can usually trim the decal like butter.

    I have also done this a ton with arcade CPOs and it works with that much heavier material. There is always a place in the edge that the wood has a burr in the wood but reversing direction usually takes care of that or some careful trimming.

    Its better to take the decal off the edge a /16 on an inch with a metal straight edge and use a paint pen than to let something grab the decal and pulli it off during your pin party.

    Post some pictures, always love to see this what people are doing

    #760 2 years ago

    I have been working my ass off trying to get this game ready for Pinfest. Set up is today, show Fri and Sat.

    The T molding edges were very difficult to trim against. But you on the other edge I left a 16th or less reveal since decals are black. The front of the cab had a thick piece of vinyl which I had peeled off since I had a custom made piece for the front. Since it was a "one off" it was very time consuming to make sure I centered the sides as as the Spy Hunter logo under coin door trim and edge of cab bottom. The game is back together finally and seems to be working 100%.

    I had to fudge with some lamp sockets after adding LED's all working for now

    Sorry some pics are blurry but I took some w/o flash to show true color of the powder coat. Legs and lockdown are the same color. I'm really liking my choice of color. It started with the T molding and I took a sample to the powder guy to match. I think we did well.

    P7280046 (resized).JPGP7280046 (resized).JPGP7290047 (resized).JPGP7290047 (resized).JPGP7290048 (resized).JPGP7290048 (resized).JPGP7290049 (resized).JPGP7290049 (resized).JPGP7290050 (resized).JPGP7290050 (resized).JPGP7290051 (resized).JPGP7290051 (resized).JPGP7290052 (resized).JPGP7290052 (resized).JPGP7290053 (resized).JPGP7290053 (resized).JPG
    #761 2 years ago

    Is rustoleum 2x acrylic enamel good paint to use on the cabinet?

    #762 2 years ago
    Quoted from borna:

    Is rustoleum 2x acrylic enamel good paint to use on the cabinet?

    Yes

    #763 2 years ago

    I’m restoring a Medusa cabinet. I decided to start with the head to work out any mistakes before the main event.

    Well, the red is too red, so back to the drawing board. Question: do I sand down to the wood, or to the primer? Is it possible to shoot the new color over the red without looking terrible?

    Here’s what I’ve done so far: two coats of Rustoleum primer, wet sanded, then 24 hours later, two coats of Rustoleum red, no sanding yet.

    image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
    #764 2 years ago

    I would just give it a light sand and repaint with new colour. Just stick to same brand of paint to be safe.

    #765 2 years ago
    Quoted from Stretch7:

    I would just give it a light sand and repaint with new colour. Just stick to same brand of paint to be safe.

    Thanks, that was kind of my thought process. The full nuclear option was acetone, but I’d rather not do that. I was thinking a 200 grit scuff to clear most of the red and spray with a deeper Rustoleum red.

    #766 2 years ago

    Been working on a Funhouse for 4? Years??

    Anyway, anyone stupid enough to do what I just did?

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    #767 2 years ago
    Quoted from JoeJet:

    Been working on a Funhouse for 4? Years??
    Anyway, anyone stupid enough to do what I just did?
    [quoted image]

    I would just put black painted carriage bolts in the holes and call it good.

    Unless you want to re-decal the front and fill them. Its not too bad of a repair job, just time consuming.

    In the long run it wont matter.

    Any mistakes made will be up to next restorer to solve.

    #768 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    I would just put black painted carriage bolts in the holes and call it good.

    Yup, that's exactly what I am doing. This game isn't going anywhere. It's just so frustrating! As soon as I poked my exacto knife into the second hole I just froze...lol

    The game had the carrage bolts there originally to replace the security lock and I mentally made a note to fill them 4 years ago. Lesson learned - make written notes!!!

    #769 2 years ago

    Can I remove this staining through sanding alone, or am I better off just painting everything?

    image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
    #770 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    Can I remove this staining through sanding alone, or am I better off just painting everything? [quoted image]

    I've sanded it to at least smooth it out, but ultimately the stains were covered by the first and/or second primer coat before laying down any paint.

    Here's an example I did last year (Bally Black Jack).

    000a (resized).jpg000a (resized).jpg000b (resized).jpg000b (resized).jpg
    #771 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mathazar:

    I've sanded it to at least smooth it out, but ultimately the stains were covered by the first and/or second primer coat before laying down any paint.
    Here's an example I did last year (Bally Black Jack).[quoted image][quoted image]

    Thanks. I was kind of hoping to keep the floor bare, but 40 years of beer stains likely won’t buff out.

    I’ll sand, prime and paint.

    #772 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    I’m restoring a Medusa cabinet. I decided to start with the head to work out any mistakes before the main event.
    Well, the red is too red, so back to the drawing board. Question: do I sand down to the wood, or to the primer? Is it possible to shoot the new color over the red without looking terrible?
    Here’s what I’ve done so far: two coats of Rustoleum primer, wet sanded, then 24 hours later, two coats of Rustoleum red, no sanding yet. [quoted image]

    May I ask what kind of rustoleum paint you used and what shine?

    #773 2 years ago
    Quoted from borna:

    May I ask what kind of rustoleum paint you used and what shine?

    The original was satin red enamel as a 12 oz spray can. It was like a bright, fire engine red. No bueno.

    7188kKX7HEL._AC_SL1500_ (resized).jpg7188kKX7HEL._AC_SL1500_ (resized).jpg

    I'm repainting with gloss regal red which is darker and closer to the original. Live and learn.

    81wkI-puTPL._SL1500_ (resized).jpg81wkI-puTPL._SL1500_ (resized).jpg

    #774 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    The original was satin red enamel as a 12 oz spray can. It was like a bright, fire engine red. No bueno.
    [quoted image]
    I'm repainting with gloss regal red which is darker and closer to the original. Live and learn.
    [quoted image]

    Thanks for the info. I am about to paint my Bally Wizard cabinet and deciding between the kind you used and Rustoleum 2X.
    I know the enamel takes a long time to dry vs rustoleum 2x which is acrylic enamel which dries my faster.
    I wish someone could tell me the advantages and disadvantages of each?

    #775 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    Can I remove this staining through sanding

    Ya she’s pretty dirty not sure if that would come out looking nice. I would prime with a stain blocker like kilz first.
    Other option replace the bottom if you like the natural colour.

    #776 2 years ago

    As a person with some experience in furniture restoration, I would like to suggest that if you were looking to replicate the original color of the Medusa, you could take the cabinet to your local Sherwin Williams paint store. They have the ability to do a computer scan of the paint and come up with the exact formula for the color. I realize it is a tremendous amount of work to get the cabinet to the store location but it looks like you have all the heavy work done. I would also like to suggest that you post the paint formula here so that we can all benefit from your labor.

    #777 2 years ago
    Quoted from rozi550:

    As a person with some experience in furniture restoration, I would like to suggest that if you were looking to replicate the original color of the Medusa, you could take the cabinet to your local Sherwin Williams paint store. They have the ability to do a computer scan of the paint and come up with the exact formula for the color. I realize it is a tremendous amount of work to get the cabinet to the store location but it looks like you have all the heavy work done. I would also like to suggest that you post the paint formula here so that we can all benefit from your labor.

    I think that is a very good idea. However I have a question, by doing this we are moving away from the conveniences of spray cans.
    With that said, what kind of paint do you recommend and best approach to applying it? Will it be roller, brush, or spray gun?

    #778 2 years ago
    Quoted from rozi550:

    As a person with some experience in furniture restoration, I would like to suggest that if you were looking to replicate the original color of the Medusa, you could take the cabinet to your local Sherwin Williams paint store. They have the ability to do a computer scan of the paint and come up with the exact formula for the color. I realize it is a tremendous amount of work to get the cabinet to the store location but it looks like you have all the heavy work done. I would also like to suggest that you post the paint formula here so that we can all benefit from your labor.

    No trouble at all in my opinion, done it many times.

    20201206_175330 (resized).jpg20201206_175330 (resized).jpg

    #779 2 years ago

    For anyone using the Rustoleum paints, you can use almost any of them for the base coats prior to stenciling. Just follow the label to the letter for wait times between coats or before moving on to stenciling. For stenciling, my experience has been that the more the paint brags about short dry time, the harder it is to use with a stencil. The paint pulls up stringy tendrils as the stencil comes up unless you spray and pull of the stencil immediately or wait much longer to pull the stencil. Both have their drawbacks. I prefer a longer setting paint, Rustoleum makes an oil based spray paint that smells like old-school paint from when I was a kid. Had much more luck with it.

    When I pull off a stencil I have Q-Tips and a small container of Naptha handy to touch any bad looking edges, you can rework the paint in real time this way. A raised edge from a stencil can be pushed back down, a stringy piece can be removed.

    #780 2 years ago
    Quoted from rozi550:

    As a person with some experience in furniture restoration, I would like to suggest that if you were looking to replicate the original color of the Medusa, you could take the cabinet to your local Sherwin Williams paint store. They have the ability to do a computer scan of the paint and come up with the exact formula for the color. I realize it is a tremendous amount of work to get the cabinet to the store location but it looks like you have all the heavy work done. I would also like to suggest that you post the paint formula here so that we can all benefit from your labor.

    I’m in the ‘good enough’ camp, and far from a professional restorer. While a paint match and spray gun system would likely yield better results, the trade-off in time and money isn’t a good fit for me.

    Here’s the head awaiting new paint. I wet sanded from 150 to 800, and I’m hopeful the deeper red will look closer to the original. Some trial and error on my part, but the convenience of rattle cans works for my situation.

    image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
    #781 2 years ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    No trouble at all in my opinion, done it many times.
    [quoted image]

    I have had good results with paint chips and matching by eye. Ebd being one of the hardest to match came out well w sw and bm paints. Some stores will even sell or let you borrow their fan book with hundreds of colors.

    #782 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    I’m in the ‘good enough’ camp, and far from a professional restorer. While a paint match and spray gun system would likely yield better results, the trade-off in time and money isn’t a good fit for me.
    Here’s the head awaiting new paint. I wet sanded from 150 to 800, and I’m hopeful the deeper red will look closer to the original. Some trial and error on my part, but the convenience of rattle cans works for my situation. [quoted image]

    Aside from doing pf touchups I think the cab repaint is the hardest part of a pin restore. My best advice is to stay clear from lacquer paints. Jeff from pinball pimp told be to stay away from Krylon when using his stencils. I'm not sure why.

    My issue w Rustoleum is that I get uneven coverage because of the narrow spraying tips. Even though Rustoleum says it's for wood, I see that it covers much nicer when spraying metal as opposed to wood. The base primer is also important. Using a primer plus sealer will yield the best result, especially when laying dark colors. Another good thing to do is practice on some scrap plywood. Sanded birch would be the best.

    #783 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lovef2k:

    Aside from doing pf touchups I think the cab repaint is the hardest part of a pin restore. My best advice is to stay clear from lacquer paints. Jeff from pinball pimp told be to stay away from Krylon when using his stencils. I'm not sure why.
    My issue w Rustoleum is that I get uneven coverage because of the narrow spraying tips. Even though Rustoleum says it's for wood, I see that it covers much nicer when spraying metal as opposed to wood. The base primer is also important. Using a primer plus sealer will yield the best result, especially when laying dark colors. Another good thing to do is practice on some scrap plywood. Sanded birch would be the best.

    Thanks for the tips. BTW, this is the head I bought from you!

    #784 2 years ago
    Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

    For anyone using the Rustoleum paints, you can use almost any of them for the base coats prior to stenciling. Just follow the label to the letter for wait times between coats or before moving on to stenciling. For stenciling, my experience has been that the more the paint brags about short dry time, the harder it is to use with a stencil. The paint pulls up stringy tendrils as the stencil comes up unless you spray and pull of the stencil immediately or wait much longer to pull the stencil. Both have their drawbacks. I prefer a longer setting paint, Rustoleum makes an oil based spray paint that smells like old-school paint from when I was a kid. Had much more luck with it.
    When I pull off a stencil I have Q-Tips and a small container of Naptha handy to touch any bad looking edges, you can rework the paint in real time this way. A raised edge from a stencil can be pushed back down, a stringy piece can be removed.

    Agreed on Rustoleum paints... but I'd go for a few bucks more per can for the stencil paints, and move up to Molotow low pressure cans; you can spray 2 to 4 light coats to cover... 3 to 5 minutes between coats, and peel immediately after 5 minutes is up on the last coat... done 4 cabs with it and some very elaborate ones to boot. No pulls, great coverage, dries smooth and hard, never a pull-up... why use anything else? I buy mine from Bombing Science... a bit cheaper than Dick Blick or others.

    #785 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    Thanks for the tips. BTW, this is the head I bought from you!

    I figured. Hope it turns out well.

    #786 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lovef2k:

    Aside from doing pf touchups I think the cab repaint is the hardest part of a pin restore. My best advice is to stay clear from lacquer paints. Jeff from pinball pimp told be to stay away from Krylon when using his stencils. I'm not sure why.
    My issue w Rustoleum is that I get uneven coverage because of the narrow spraying tips. Even though Rustoleum says it's for wood, I see that it covers much nicer when spraying metal as opposed to wood. The base primer is also important. Using a primer plus sealer will yield the best result, especially when laying dark colors. Another good thing to do is practice on some scrap plywood. Sanded birch would be the best.

    I don't remember saying stay away from Krylon. It works fine, you just need to peel as soon as you are done spraying because the paint tends to dry quicker and you don't want the paint drying along the edge of the stencil or it can tear. Same with the Rusto 2X. The original white can Rusto stays tacky longer and gives you a superior peel because it's more of an oil-based enamel over the Krylon and 2X. DO NOT USE LACQUER based paints as it can seep into the stencil and turn it soft and gummy.

    #787 2 years ago

    Primed this cabinet with oil-based primer, sprayed it with HVLP and gloss oil-based paint.
    This corner got sprayed too thick so after it dried I sanded it down and touched it up with the airbrush.
    For both airbrush and HVLP I thinned the paint with some naptha.
    It passes the 6 foot test but if you look at it at the right angle you can see where it was repainted, looks glossier than the rest.
    Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it?

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    #788 2 years ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Primed this cabinet with oil-based primer, sprayed it with HVLP and gloss oil-based paint.
    This corner got sprayed too thick so after it dried I sanded it down and touched it up with the airbrush.
    For both airbrush and HVLP I thinned the paint with some naptha.
    It passes the 6 foot test but if you look at it at the right angle you can see where it was repainted, looks glossier than the rest.
    Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it?
    [quoted image]

    Your surface prep looks a bit rough.

    #789 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    Your surface prep looks a bit rough.

    The cabinet was pretty rough. I filled in any major gaps with bondo. Sanded 80/120/150/220. Primed then sanded, tack cloth and sprayed.

    #790 2 years ago

    In a lot cases people use a guide coat, just a very sparse spray of a contrasting colour and then as you sand you can see contours and features that are otherwise hidden. Looks like your coarse sanding was not complete.

    #791 2 years ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Primed this cabinet with oil-based primer, sprayed it with HVLP and gloss oil-based paint.
    This corner got sprayed too thick so after it dried I sanded it down and touched it up with the airbrush.
    For both airbrush and HVLP I thinned the paint with some naptha.
    It passes the 6 foot test but if you look at it at the right angle you can see where it was repainted, looks glossier than the rest.
    Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it?
    [quoted image]

    A non-gloss finish will be a bit more forgiving, in my experience.

    #792 2 years ago
    Quoted from PinballPimp:

    I don't remember saying stay away from Krylon. It works fine, you just need to peel as soon as you are done spraying because the paint tends to dry quicker and you don't want the paint drying along the edge of the stencil or it can tear. Same with the Rusto 2X. The original white can Rusto stays tacky longer and gives you a superior peel because it's more of an oil-based enamel over the Krylon and 2X. DO NOT USE LACQUER based paints as it can seep into the stencil and turn it soft and gummy.

    I do remember you saying something maybe not Krylon. My mistake.

    I learned the hard way about the lacquer and stencils.

    I think I speak for all of us when I say thanks for your stencils and your contribution to the hobby!

    1 week later
    #793 2 years ago

    I used automotive paints on PinballPimp stencils, my first time using them, and it came out amazing.

    My problem was just my lack of experience...There was that um... panic? ...over the dry time, because you really have to move quick to get the stencils off. While the final product looks good, I'll never use fast-dry paint again for the poison issue alone (yes vid1900 I had a proper respirator...don't you start!).

    I don't know how people like Chris Hutchins and others do this so easily.

    #794 2 years ago

    Automotive paints work incredibly well. I did my High Speed with PinballPimp stencils and automotive paints as well. The cabinet came out amazing!

    Working with these paints takes a lot of know how and experience to do correctly. It is not necessarily difficult but requires learned techniques.

    Chris has a dedicated paint booth and uses all the right tools to make the job go smoothly. That makes a huge difference. Every piece of equipment he has is top notch. The compressor for example is $7000+

    There are so many variables involved with these automotive paints.

    His years of experience is a huge advantage.

    I have learned a lot just from his thread.

    #795 2 years ago

    I just finished a Meteor playfield swap to a new CPR and now my attention has turned to the cabinet.

    While structurally sound and surprisingly with very little dings or gouges, both sides and the cabinet front suffer from some pretty decent planking. The ridges are fairly deep and rough to the touch. The ridges are present only below where the side rails went....the wood under the side rails is nice and smooth. This pin must've been in a garage or some other non-climate controlled area for a while (all the playfield mechs were oxidized, too).

    I'm experimenting with one of the sides to see how I'm going to approach the rest of the cabinet. I took the first layer of paint off with acetone and then used an orbital sander to see how the cabinet side would smooth out. While visually it still looks like there are ridges, the side is now totally smooth to the touch.

    If I proceed to the primer/paint stages, will this ridge/planking problem re-emerge at some point? Or possible show thru the new paint and primer? I was thinking of putting down a thin layer of bondo but I hate working with bondo and would like to avoid that if at all possible.

    IMG_0439a (resized).jpgIMG_0439a (resized).jpgIMG_0440a (resized).jpgIMG_0440a (resized).jpgIMG_0441a (resized).jpgIMG_0441a (resized).jpg
    #796 2 years ago

    Yes the ridges/planking will still come through. If you don't want that look then you will have to skim coat everything with bondo.
    Keep in mind if that wood/planking is loose then you risk it coming back up and may have to take a different approach

    #797 2 years ago
    Quoted from Stretch7:

    Yes the ridges/planking will still come through. If you don't want that look then you will have to skim coat everything with bondo.
    Keep in mind if that wood/planking is loose then you risk it coming back up and may have to take a different approach

    Fortunately, the planking is not loose save for two small pieces on the bottom edge that looks more like it came loose from banging into something sometime over the years.

    I hate working with bondo, but it has been affective for me in repairing cabinets in the past with far worse damage. Another pinsider recommended to me "Durham's Rock Hard" (https://www.amazon.com/Donald-Durhams-076694000046-4-Pound-Rockhard/dp/B009YNYPAU) which I'd never heard of before, but apparently this water based wood putty has been around for decades. Supposedly easier to work with vs bondo (too thin/watery? Add more powder. Too thick/pasty? Add more water). I'm going to practice with it on some scrap plywood ($2/can at my Home Depot) and if it seems good, I'll put a thin coat on the sides and the front of my Meteor cabinet.

    #798 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mathazar:

    Fortunately, the planking is not loose save for two small pieces on the bottom edge that looks more like it came loose from banging into something sometime over the years.
    I hate working with bondo, but it has been affective for me in repairing cabinets in the past with far worse damage. Another pinsider recommended to me "Durham's Rock Hard" (amazon.com link ») which I'd never heard of before, but apparently this water based wood putty has been around for decades. Supposedly easier to work with vs bondo (too thin/watery? Add more powder. Too thick/pasty? Add more water). I'm going to practice with it on some scrap plywood ($2/can at my Home Depot) and if it seems good, I'll put a thin coat on the sides and the front of my Meteor cabinet.

    I've used Durham's on some of my restores (including Flash Gordon & Quicksilver). It is much easier to work with than bondo. It takes a little practice to get the consistency correct for applying it. And the fact that it is waterbased always made me wonder. But the cabinets I used it on still looks good.

    For something like your application, I suggest Dolphin putty. It's kind of like bondo, in that it's two component, but I've had much better luck with it. Also, Dolphin glaze is great for the next step. You may be able to skip the putty and just go to the glaze. Its more liquid-y, and spreads & sands easily. it works great for smoothing over smaller scratches.

    #799 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mathazar:

    Fortunately, the planking is not loose save for two small pieces on the bottom edge that looks more like it came loose from banging into something sometime over the years.
    I hate working with bondo, but it has been affective for me in repairing cabinets in the past with far worse damage. Another pinsider recommended to me "Durham's Rock Hard" (amazon.com link ») which I'd never heard of before, but apparently this water based wood putty has been around for decades. Supposedly easier to work with vs bondo (too thin/watery? Add more powder. Too thick/pasty? Add more water). I'm going to practice with it on some scrap plywood ($2/can at my Home Depot) and if it seems good, I'll put a thin coat on the sides and the front of my Meteor cabinet.

    Fix it all.

    Coat the whole cabinet.

    It cheap and you can make it putty like or thinner like a glaze.

    Ive used it on tons of stuff.

    It sands great, finish with bondo or halftime.

    Dries hard.

    Downside, it takes awhile to dry being water based if its super thick.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-Fix-It-All-25-lb-Patching-Compound-DPFXL25/100213070

    #800 2 years ago

    I’d be afraid to put anything water-based on it, would worry sanding would open the grain and make it want to move around again when wet. My space station cab was planked like that but I just built a new one.

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