(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide

By vid1900

8 years ago


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    #701 2 years ago
    Quoted from flynnibus:

    But even if you do a dry install, you should be able to position the decal FIRST, secure it, then lift some of it back, remove the backing, install that section, and then remove your securing stuff and work the rest of decal on by working up from your initial spot. Lookup any vinyl install video where they talk about placing, then removing about 1/4 of the backing to start your initial placement. you then remove your securing points and work the rest of the way back.

    This is good info and close to what I did. I did my decaling myself, each decal in two sections.

    PXL_20210326_020339832 (resized).jpgPXL_20210326_020339832 (resized).jpg

    Lay out your decals to flatten them, overnight at least!

    PXL_20210326_213507703.NIGHT (resized).jpgPXL_20210326_213507703.NIGHT (resized).jpg

    Lightly weigh down one side to avoid large shifts of the decal when moving it. Measure the sides (and do a little math) to make sure you have consistent edges and a good amount of border to remove.

    PXL_20210327_031629593 (resized).jpgPXL_20210327_031629593 (resized).jpg

    Then add a LOT more weight to that side in order to lock in that side.

    PXL_20210327_042848854 (resized).jpgPXL_20210327_042848854 (resized).jpg

    Lay the unsecured side of the decal over the weighted side, peel back half the backing and cut that half of the backing in a single stroke. TAKE YOUR TACK RAG AND CLEAN THE EXPOSED HALF OF THE CABINET THIS IS THE LAST CHANCE YOU WILL HAVE TO CLEAN ANY TRASH. Also eyeball your exposed decal for any obvious hair or dirt it may have picked up while being exposed. Then pull the sticky side of the decal *tightly* down over the exposed side and gently squeegee out the bubbles out to the sides. I got a 4 in foam covered squeegee to prevent scratches. Keep doing this until the bubbles are eliminated.

    PXL_20210327_042805604 (resized).jpgPXL_20210327_042805604 (resized).jpg

    Transfer your weighted objects to the other side and repeat the process! You won't have to cut the backing on the second pass of course, but it is worth putting the weight down to avoid pulling up the decal you laid down.

    A great tip I picked up from High_End_Pins is to SAND OFF THE EDGES instead of cutting them. You'll be terrified of that but it works. It works! Take about a 220 flat sanding block and sand your decaled edges (you DO have sharp edges on your corners, right) at about a 30 degree angle. This trims and seals the decal against the cabinet and gives a clean edge that matches factory. Fill the exposed front and back edges with oil-based pen.

    All of this is better said by Chris:

    As an aside, the most difficult decal to do was the front of the cabinet. The rest were easy(er). Lining up the start button along with measuring eight different locations to ensure uniformity was very difficult. I found you do not have to put a backer in the coin door hole if you pull your decal TIGHT.

    #702 2 years ago
    Quoted from alexmogil:

    A great tip I picked up from High_End_Pins is to SAND OFF THE EDGES instead of cutting them. You'll be terrified of that but it works. It works! Take about a 220 flat sanding block and sand your decaled edges (you DO have sharp edges on your corners, right) at about a 30 degree angle. This trims and seals the decal against the cabinet and gives a clean edge that matches factory. Fill the exposed front and back edges with oil-based pen.

    This looks terrifying but man the results are amazing1 I'm about to do cabinet decals on a Sega Godzilla restore and will try this. Thanks for the tip!

    #703 2 years ago
    Quoted from alexmogil:

    This is good info and close to what I did. I did my decaling myself, each decal in two sections.
    [quoted image]
    Lay out your decals to flatten them, overnight at least!
    [quoted image]
    Lightly weigh down one side to avoid large shifts of the decal when moving it. Measure the sides (and do a little math) to make sure you have consistent edges and a good amount of border to remove.
    [quoted image]
    Then add a LOT more weight to that side in order to lock in that side.
    [quoted image]
    Lay the unsecured side of the decal over the weighted side, peel back half the backing and cut that half of the backing in a single stroke. TAKE YOUR TACK RAG AND CLEAN THE EXPOSED HALF OF THE CABINET THIS IS THE LAST CHANCE YOU WILL HAVE TO CLEAN ANY TRASH. Also eyeball your exposed decal for any obvious hair or dirt it may have picked up while being exposed. Then pull the sticky side of the decal *tightly* down over the exposed side and gently squeegee out the bubbles out to the sides. I got a 4 in foam covered squeegee to prevent scratches. Keep doing this until the bubbles are eliminated.
    [quoted image]
    Transfer your weighted objects to the other side and repeat the process! You won't have to cut the backing on the second pass of course, but it is worth putting the weight down to avoid pulling up the decal you laid down.
    A great tip I picked up from High_End_Pins is to SAND OFF THE EDGES instead of cutting them. You'll be terrified of that but it works. It works! Take about a 220 flat sanding block and sand your decaled edges (you DO have sharp edges on your corners, right) at about a 30 degree angle. This trims and seals the decal against the cabinet and gives a clean edge that matches factory. Fill the exposed front and back edges with oil-based pen.
    All of this is better said by Chris:
    As an aside, the most difficult decal to do was the front of the cabinet. The rest were easy(er). Lining up the start button along with measuring eight different locations to ensure uniformity was very difficult. I found you do not have to put a backer in the coin door hole if you pull your decal TIGHT.

    I use a cell phone flashlight, flat across the wood from behind to help me see where the start button hole is.

    It works pretty good.

    A regular flashlight can give false shadows.

    #704 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    I use a cell phone flashlight, flat across the wood from behind to help me see where the start button hole is.
    It works pretty good.
    A regular flashlight can give false shadows.

    Man I tried EVERYTHING. I used a cell phone light, a stick light, an LED light... I mean it all worked but then I was working in the dark and bumped the decal and ok start over and line it up and is that a shadow and I hate my parents and oh god I am useless start over...

    That took like 90 minutes.

    #705 2 years ago
    Quoted from alexmogil:

    Man I tried EVERYTHING. I used a cell phone light, a stick light, an LED light... I mean it all worked but then I was working in the dark and bumped the decal and ok start over and line it up and is that a shadow and I hate my parents and oh god I am useless start over...
    That took like 90 minutes.

    I hear you! Decals and be either super easy or a true terror.

    A lot of people like the dry method as its very fast and requires no dry time.

    I use the wet method using rapid-tac. My window decal installer, who does my window graphics, turned me onto it.

    He will never install a $2500 decal without it. He says its just to risky, especially when installing a big decal on a window, outside in the wind.

    I have actually squeegeed down an entire side piece and had to remove it and reapply it.

    Fortunately, rapid-tac allows for a 30 min work time. It actually enhances the adhesive's ability to hold even though its a wet application.

    Windex and dish soap mixtures will never do that.

    I was able to remove the piece and stick it back down with no adhesive loss.

    I love rapid-tac.

    However, you do have to let it dry out for a few hours to make sure its really dried out before setting the edges down.

    Im generally not in too much of a hurry.

    #706 2 years ago
    Quoted from alexmogil:

    This is good info and close to what I did. I did my decaling myself, each decal in two sections.
    [quoted image]
    Lay out your decals to flatten them, overnight at least!
    [quoted image]
    Lightly weigh down one side to avoid large shifts of the decal when moving it. Measure the sides (and do a little math) to make sure you have consistent edges and a good amount of border to remove.
    [quoted image]
    Then add a LOT more weight to that side in order to lock in that side.
    [quoted image]
    Lay the unsecured side of the decal over the weighted side, peel back half the backing and cut that half of the backing in a single stroke. TAKE YOUR TACK RAG AND CLEAN THE EXPOSED HALF OF THE CABINET THIS IS THE LAST CHANCE YOU WILL HAVE TO CLEAN ANY TRASH. Also eyeball your exposed decal for any obvious hair or dirt it may have picked up while being exposed. Then pull the sticky side of the decal *tightly* down over the exposed side and gently squeegee out the bubbles out to the sides. I got a 4 in foam covered squeegee to prevent scratches. Keep doing this until the bubbles are eliminated.
    [quoted image]
    Transfer your weighted objects to the other side and repeat the process! You won't have to cut the backing on the second pass of course, but it is worth putting the weight down to avoid pulling up the decal you laid down.
    A great tip I picked up from High_End_Pins is to SAND OFF THE EDGES instead of cutting them. You'll be terrified of that but it works. It works! Take about a 220 flat sanding block and sand your decaled edges (you DO have sharp edges on your corners, right) at about a 30 degree angle. This trims and seals the decal against the cabinet and gives a clean edge that matches factory. Fill the exposed front and back edges with oil-based pen.
    All of this is better said by Chris:
    As an aside, the most difficult decal to do was the front of the cabinet. The rest were easy(er). Lining up the start button along with measuring eight different locations to ensure uniformity was very difficult. I found you do not have to put a backer in the coin door hole if you pull your decal TIGHT.

    Thank you for posting this vid. I never knew Chris made vids.

    I'm confused about the sanding of the left over material on the corners. He started with a black painted cab but the corners look white after he sanded. Do you have to come back and touch up w paint pen?

    My game has T molding on the front of the main can and head. Should I sand as Chris did? Since there is T molding I don't want to create a bevel on those edges. But I do want to seal the edges to make the decals secure. And what grit would be best for this?

    #707 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lovef2k:

    Thank you for posting this vid. I never knew Chris made vids.
    I'm confused about the sanding of the left over material on the corners. He started with a black painted cab but the corners look white after he sanded. Do you have to come back and touch up w paint pen?
    My game has T molding on the front of the main can and head. Should I sand as Chris did? Since there is T molding I don't want to create a bevel on those edges. But I do want to seal the edges to make the decals secure. And what grit would be best for this?

    I am by no means an expert these are my experiences:

    Yes, he used an oil based pin to fill the light gaps on the sides, but not the bottom - I didn't believe him but the games in my collection with a decal are indeed sanded bare. The sides and everything else is filled with an *oil* based pen.

    Sharpie makes some pretty good oil based pens - they are *not* sharpie ink, but oil based ink. They don't lighten up on bare wood like acrylic (Molotow for example) or regular Sharpie ink.

    PXL_20210327_063839883 (resized).jpgPXL_20210327_063839883 (resized).jpg

    I used a 220 grit on a block to get those edges. As for the t-molding on the edges, yes I did edge them, but perhaps not as harshly as the front corners. T-molding is a little forgiving though in covering those bevels.

    #708 2 years ago
    Quoted from alexmogil:

    I am by no means an expert these are my experiences:
    Yes, he used an oil based pin to fill the light gaps on the sides, but not the bottom - I didn't believe him but the games in my collection with a decal are indeed sanded bare. The sides and everything else is filled with an *oil* based pen.
    Sharpie makes some pretty good oil based pens - they are *not* sharpie ink, but oil based ink. They don't lighten up on bare wood like acrylic (Molotow for example) or regular Sharpie ink.
    [quoted image]
    I used a 220 grit on a block to get those edges. As for the t-molding on the edges, yes I did edge them, but perhaps not as harshly as the front corners. T-molding is a little forgiving though in covering those bevels.

    She look sweet! I bought rapid prep by mistake. Just ordered rapid tac. Will I need the prep anyway?

    #709 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lovef2k:

    She look sweet! I bought rapid prep by mistake. Just ordered rapid tac. Will I need the prep anyway?

    I use rapid-prep all the time to clean before any paint including clearcoat is applied.

    I heavily apply rapid-tac application fluid to the surface and the decal before application.

    Mask the bottom of the cabinet to keep the fluid from staining or discoloring the particle board surface for best results.

    I also use the application fluid to help set mylar on the playfield. It really helps to get mylars located properly without losing adhesive.

    1 week later
    #710 2 years ago

    edit -- wrong thread!

    1 week later
    #711 2 years ago

    How would you guys approach fixing the rear of this Bally SS backbox? Starting to disassemble the pin now and planning to re-paint in the spring. I've done a couple of cab repaints before, using wood epoxy and bondo to fix scratches, gouges, carvings, and the occasional missing plywood layer and damaged corner. But the back of the backbox looks a little gnarly and has evidence of previous fixes. The part that has me concerned is that the plywood layer around the vents is lifting, and in some vent areas there's missing wood under the top layer. I think the paint that is left there is all that's holding it on...I'm sure that area is going to come all apart once I start to sand.

    Let that vent area all come apart in sanding, fashion something to temporarily fill in the vent holes, and then bondo back up to the level of the rest of the backbox and sand?

    IMG_9277 (resized).JPGIMG_9277 (resized).JPGIMG_9276 (resized).JPGIMG_9276 (resized).JPGIMG_9280 (resized).JPGIMG_9280 (resized).JPGIMG_9281 (resized).JPGIMG_9281 (resized).JPG
    #712 2 years ago

    It looks like too much ply has lifted to just glue back down.

    You could peel off the delamination, then Bondo.

    But if it was mine, I would just replace the back with a new piece of plywood.

    Copy the vents to the new piece with a router pattern bit.

    #713 2 years ago

    I'm gearing up to start my Spy Hunter decal replacement. I noticed some decal peeling from the rear edge and decided to pull it up. The grayish white area left behind seems to be the finish of the cab before the decals were applied, or am I seeing something else here? It's smooth with no sticky residue. If I can remove the entire decal cleanly, can I leave this finish or sand it off?

    On the cab front, i also peeling back some decal and found bare wood, but this cab has MDF sides and plywood on the front and back. Also no residue or glue here.

    P4220015 (resized).JPGP4220015 (resized).JPGP4220016 (resized).JPGP4220016 (resized).JPG
    #714 2 years ago

    HEP mentioned it before, they put dome Vinyl down on the cab wood to avoid having to do any prime/paint prepping before decals. Most people usually sand them down, if you pull them off you are likely to take quite a bit of small pieces of wood with it, making a lot of filling repair to get it nice and smooth again

    #715 2 years ago

    Yep, and some cabs were plywood, but with a thin MDF overlay (like Whitewater). That gave a pre-primed, no sanding needed, surface that was ready to screen.

    You never know what you'll get....

    #716 2 years ago

    Started the teardown of a Bally SS cabinet this weekend with repair and repaint in the near future. Just about done gutting the bottom cab - how would recommend these bits be removed? Don't want to paint over them tho I've seen some bad repaint jobs where people have done just that. I thought about taping over them during the repaint but they're dull and scuffed up and I want to run them in my tumblers and get them nice and shiny. But they're on there really, really good...afraid that if I get something behind there to pry them up a bit enough to get my nail puller tool underneath the fastener heads that I'll gouge out the cabinet wood. Or maybe that's what I'm supposed to do....and then wood epoxy repair whatever damage I do? I've got a ton of wood epoxy and bondo work to do on this cabinet anyway.

    IMG_9331a (resized).jpgIMG_9331a (resized).jpg
    #717 2 years ago

    Just had that same dilemma when I repainted my Dolly Parton. I did end up prying them, bent the bracket and ended up having to repair the wood. I’d recommend drilling them out. I can’t imagine a way to get them out and have those hellish nails be reusable anyway. I replaced them with truss head screws.

    #718 2 years ago
    Quoted from play_pinball:

    Just had that same dilemma when I repainted my Dolly Parton. I did end up prying them, bent the bracket and ended up having to repair the wood. I’d recommend drilling them out. I can’t imagine a way to get them out and have those hellish nails be reusable anyway. I replaced them with truss head screws.

    Got 'em out, little to no damage. Used a metal putty knife to pry the top part just a bit, then got my nail puller to pull out the top finishing nail. Then the used the bracket itself to pry up just a bit the bottom nail, then removed. Rinsed and repeated on the second one. No bends in the bracket, and the nails are straight and good enough to polish and re-use tho I do like your idea of truss head screws and may go that route. Minor dent in one side, good for wood epoxy. No damage to other side. Fairly pleased....now time to strip the old paint and crap off!

    #719 2 years ago

    I usually just tape them off for painting but did remove them once on a FG. I ended up re-using the original nails. I don't think you would want to use screws as the upper PF trim may get caught when lifting.

    #720 2 years ago

    Nice. The nails on my Dolly were the toughest SOBs I’ve ever encountered. The heads actually popped off 2 or 3 of them instead of the nails themselves coming out.

    #721 2 years ago
    Quoted from play_pinball:

    Nice. The nails on my Dolly were the toughest SOBs I’ve ever encountered. The heads actually popped off 2 or 3 of them instead of the nails themselves coming out.

    I have been there. These are ring shanked nails that are not meant to be removed. It's the same nail used on the front of the cab for the coin door stop. I have yet to find a suitable replacement for it.

    #722 2 years ago

    Bally SS cabinet mostly stripped of paint - will be doing some wood epoxy, glue, and bondo repairs this weekend. Question: does anyone have a source for the x4 metal "bumpers" that go on the rear of the lower cab? Mine are in good shape physically and I can likely reuse them, and I'm going to run them thru my tumblers for a few days and see if they can brighten up a bit. If I can't get them good looking again, I'd like to source new ones if there is such a thing.

    IMG_9373 (resized).JPGIMG_9373 (resized).JPGIMG_9374 (resized).JPGIMG_9374 (resized).JPG
    #723 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mathazar:

    Bally SS cabinet mostly stripped of paint - will be doing some wood epoxy, glue, and bondo repairs this weekend. Question: does anyone have a source for the x4 metal "bumpers" that go on the rear of the lower cab? Mine are in good shape physically and I can likely reuse them, and I'm going to run them thru my tumblers for a few days and see if they can brighten up a bit. If I can't get them good looking again, I'd like to source new ones if there is such a thing.[quoted image][quoted image]

    I have a box of new ones. i can send you some.

    #724 2 years ago
    Quoted from psd4me:

    I have a box of new ones. i can send you some.

    PM sent...

    #725 2 years ago

    Question... working on a GTB Fast Draw... one of the cabinet sides has a warp that has pulled away from the bottom supports about a half inch... any tips on reducing or reversing the warp? Was thinking a hot wet towel on the inside of the cab wall and pull in with a half dozen pipe clamps overnight or a few days? The warp runs about 2 feet and really shows at the bottom of cab, and less at the top.

    Any problems with this idea, or other tips?

    Thanks!

    #726 2 years ago
    Quoted from Dono:

    Question... working on a GTB Fast Draw... one of the cabinet sides has a warp that has pulled away from the bottom supports about a half inch... any tips on reducing or reversing the warp? Was thinking a hot wet towel on the inside of the cab wall and pull in with a half dozen pipe clamps overnight or a few days? The warp runs about 2 feet and really shows at the bottom of cab, and less at the top.
    Any problems with this idea, or other tips?
    Thanks!

    You'll probably need to bolt a 1/4" angle iron down the length

    #727 2 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    You'll probably need to bolt a 1/4" angle iron down the length

    Vid, would you suggest bolting onto both the struts and side?

    #728 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mathazar:

    Acetone soaked in paper towels. I haven't tried this method yet, but it looks affective and I plan to on my Black Knight cabinet after I get some good re-painting weather. Pinball Pimp's quick video of the process: https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=585900965354094
    Of course this removes ALL paint, including any underlying original.

    Well, for some advice from someone who has actually tried it, don't bother. It is just a big mess and you will still end up sanding. Just get a good sander, one with a vacuum is best, and get it done quicker than messing with Acetone.

    #729 2 years ago
    Quoted from Dono:

    Vid, would you suggest bolting onto both the struts and side?

    Probably just the side.

    But if you can bolt it to the struts without splitting them, that certainly couldn't hurt to do that too

    #730 2 years ago

    Does anyone here have any pictures/video of the cabinet making shops from 60's-90's. I would like to see what tooling they used back then as well as the painting/stencil/decal application.

    #731 2 years ago
    Quoted from Sheprd:

    Well, for some advice from someone who has actually tried it, don't bother. It is just a big mess and you will still end up sanding. Just get a good sander, one with a vacuum is best, and get it done quicker than messing with Acetone.

    Already did it last week and it was a breeze. Totally stripped the cabinet clean down (all sides) to bare wood in less than 45 minutes. Used an N95 mask just to be safe and I went thru a few pairs of rubber gloves. Will definitely use this method going forward.

    The only hassle is, of course, caring for the Acetone soaked rags afterwards....you can't just throw them in the trash (at least not if you're a good citizen). And don't leave them laying around in the garage - that invites the possibility of spontaneous combustion. I laid them flat in the driveway and allowed the sun to dry them out, then sealed them in a bag, and then dropped them off at my local hazardous waste disposal depot a couple miles from my house.

    This weekend is light sanding to contour the wood epoxy repairs and prep for the primer coat. Maybe will get to stencil paint next weekend if the weather cooperates.

    #732 2 years ago

    Slowly getting there. Baseball stencil I made was a pain. Oh well the original wasn't perfect either. Other side has issues and am trying to fix. Stars will be easy. Huge job making new cabinet. Thanks for all advice and info here.

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    #733 2 years ago

    Question for the smart people:

    Typical Bally water damage here. I’m going to replace the back of the head, but can the back of the cabinet body be saved? It’s that gross particle board and it seems like it’s separating.

    Worth saving, or replace?

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    #734 2 years ago

    Acetone all the way!

    #735 2 years ago

    I'm far from expert, but if your legs are sturdy I would leave it. The sides could be stapled to it and it might already have been fixed once before,, then your going to have a huge project. It's the backside, hidden anyway, unless you stand it on it's back for storage,, but I understand the need to have it look nice. Will be interesting to see what vid says. Bondo it and paint it since you already will have paint from head.

    #736 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    Question for the smart people:
    Typical Bally water damage here. I’m going to replace the back of the head, but can the back of the cabinet body be saved? It’s that gross particle board and it seems like it’s separating.
    Worth saving, or replace?[quoted image][quoted image]

    If you have a table saw, way quicker to replace it with more durable plywood

    #737 2 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    If you have a table saw, way quicker to replace it with more durable plywood

    I figured. Is the best way to knock that out with a mallet and a few beers?

    #738 2 years ago

    I usually cut straight down the center, with my circ saw set for 3/4" depth.

    Then use the leverage and hammer to wiggle the rotten particle board out.

    Clean out any broken cleats with Sharp chisel, but not your expensive ones, as sometimes there are hidden nails

    4 weeks later
    #739 2 years ago

    Thank you for this amazing guide vid1900 !! Restoring an Atlantis and this thread has been my bible as I re-learn woodworking which I haven't touched since HS. Would really appreciate your (and/or all the experienced people out there) insight on the following, haven't been able to find much info on neck repair/replacement online.

    The cab has moisture issues and is in pretty rough shape all around. The part I'm struggling with today is the neck with two main issues. First, it appears damaged right around where the hinges/bolts attach, is this something that needs to be/can be fixed, if so how?

    Second, one side of the neck tore a nasty gash out of the (unfortunately MDF based) cabinet side, is this fixable and if so how? I've been considering gluing the piece back in or using fiberglass resin in its place. I'm concerned both the neck itself with all the brad holes and the damaged cab side won't hold with new brads and glue. Also, if I do repair it should I fill in the brad nail holes in the neck as part of the repair?

    Apologies for all the questions, just trying to get this structurally important piece done properly. Thanks!!

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    #740 2 years ago
    Quoted from minifrizzle:

    Second, one side of the neck tore a nasty gash out of the (unfortunately MDF based) cabinet side, is this fixable and if so how?

    Fiberglass and Resin would fix it, but if it were mine, I'd cut a new back from plywood.

    Quoted from minifrizzle:

    The part I'm struggling with today is the neck with two main issues. First, it appears damaged right around where the hinges/bolts attach, is this something that needs to be/can be fixed, if so how?

    All the material seems to be there.

    Inject some wood glue, and clamp overnight

    #741 2 years ago
    Quoted from rushfan:

    Acetone all the way!

    Just to be clear, it's a viable option but it's still a nasty process... especially when you're dealing with areas of the backbox that are thicker in paint and tougher to cover with the paper towels... I went through 3/4 of a gallon of acetone and an entire roll of PTs for a 4 player Gottlieb cabinet... not knocking the process because it is a huge time saver, but just be aware that it's an unpleaseant job that you should do an a well ventilated area with some decent chemical-resistant gloves at the bare minimum.

    Bottom line is that this is a nice alternative but not for everyone.

    #742 2 years ago
    Quoted from Dono:

    Bottom line is that this is a nice alternative but not for everyone.

    Agreed, but consider me a convert. Just stripped the paint off a Mata Hari cabinet and backbox in less than half the time and effort than sanding. And no 1970's lead-laced paint dust flying about. If you have Facebook, here's a quick 13-second demonstration from The Pinball Pimp.

    https://fb.watch/5XKQvtkdTh/

    Forget well-ventilated area...do the acetone stripping outdoors in the open. Chemical-rated reusable gloves are $9 at Home Depot, and they go up your forearms as well. Goggles and decent mask recommended, but you should be using those when sanding lead-paint from the 70's anyway so this shouldn't be considered as "extra" stuff needed to do the acetone strip.

    The only hassle for me with the acetone method as disposing of the used towels. I dry mine out in the sun till they're all hard and devoid of moisture, then ziplock bag them and drop them off at the hazardous waste disposal depot a few miles from my house.

    #743 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mathazar:

    Agreed, but consider me a convert. Just stripped the paint off a Mata Hari cabinet and backbox in less than half the time and effort than sanding. And no 1970's lead-laced paint dust flying about. If you have Facebook, here's a quick 13-second demonstration from The Pinball Pimp.
    https://fb.watch/5XKQvtkdTh/
    Forget well-ventilated area...do the acetone stripping outdoors in the open. Chemical-rated reusable gloves are $9 at Home Depot, and they go up your forearms as well. Goggles and decent mask recommended, but you should be using those when sanding lead-paint from the 70's anyway so this shouldn't be considered as "extra" stuff needed to do the acetone strip.
    The only hassle for me with the acetone method as disposing of the used towels. I dry mine out in the sun till they're all hard and devoid of moisture, then ziplock bag them and drop them off at the hazardous waste disposal depot a few miles from my house.

    Good grief! It's a wonder I'm not riddled with cancer. I have sanded many Bally and stern cab with no mask. Inhale all kinds of stuff while restoring pins LOL!

    #744 2 years ago

    I'm finally getting around to the Spy Hunter cab. I don't think too many restos have been done on the god awful Bally/Midway cabs. Mostly I think because decals are not readily available?

    So I saw some lifting on some edges as I posted earlier. It seams that the decal material is different from head to base cab. I start with base cab, pulling the decals off and it only took minutes. No chemicals or sanding. Left behind is a whitish looking layer on the MDF that is free of glue or residue and very smooth except where there is damage to the wood.

    The head decals were much thicker and harder to remove but was still able to peel it away, again no chemicals, sanding nor heat gun needed. But no nice finish left behind. Just plain MDF, some glue, not too much. Some of the MDF fibers were pulled away with the decals so I will need to fill that back in. Time elapsed between last 2 pics was 6 minutes.

    Any suggestions as to what to use to fill in the rough MDF? Bondo goes on thick and I don't want to spend hours sanding it.

    P6120021 (resized).JPGP6120021 (resized).JPGP6120022 (resized).JPGP6120022 (resized).JPGP6120023 (resized).JPGP6120023 (resized).JPGP6120024 (resized).JPGP6120024 (resized).JPG
    #745 2 years ago

    I am going to start this guy next week. Given the damage it seems fiberglass resin is the way to go. I do have a question about filling the lock down bar holes with resin. Should I toss a dowel in there first? Do I just pour the resin in? If so how should I seal the bottom? Thanks in advance.

    0-6 (resized).jpeg0-6 (resized).jpeg
    #746 2 years ago
    Quoted from nerdygrrl:

    I am going to start this guy next week. Given the damage it seems fiberglass resin is the way to go. I do have a question about filling the lock down bar holes with resin. Should I toss a dowel in there first? Do I just pour the resin in? If so how should I seal the bottom? Thanks in advance.[quoted image]

    Nice!

    Yes, you can put a dowel slice in the RH hole and a chunk of wood or fiberglass cloth in the other.

    Seal the back with a sheet of wax paper and plywood clamped firmly in place

    #747 2 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Nice!
    Yes, you can put a dowel slice in the RH hole and a chunk of wood or fiberglass cloth in the other.
    Seal the back with a sheet of wax paper and plywood clamped firmly in place

    Thank you so much.

    4 weeks later
    #748 2 years ago
    Quoted from nerdygrrl:

    I am going to start this guy next week. Given the damage it seems fiberglass resin is the way to go. I do have a question about filling the lock down bar holes with resin. Should I toss a dowel in there first? Do I just pour the resin in? If so how should I seal the bottom? Thanks in advance.[quoted image]

    A couple of imperfections on the bottom, but I think that will be ok. Sanding feels good, nothing catching with my fingernail, but I won't know until I get that first coat of primer on. Weather willing next week.

    Thanks everyone for the help. It is much appreciated.

    218123130_10159236563326271_2114711348810197151_n (resized).jpg218123130_10159236563326271_2114711348810197151_n (resized).jpg
    1 week later
    #749 2 years ago
    Quoted from xeneize:

    Just for the sake of sharing my resolution...it was indeed overspray.
    I took a medium grit compound and followed up with a low grit compound on an orbital buffer. Then followed with a polish, and finally wax. Sadly, I saw very little improvement.
    Decided to try something else as I really did not want to have to pull the clear out again and shoot some more. Purchased this:
    amazon.com link »
    After about ten minutes of elbow grease I saw a significant improvement. After 15 minutes (we're just talking the front panel, here) the difference between the sides (slick) and the front (where I suffered from overspray) was hardly detectable.
    I highly recommend trying the clay solution in cases like this. It's cheap, easy, non toxic, and best of all effective!

    Did you wet sand it before trying the compound?

    #750 2 years ago

    I'm getting close to D day, decals that is. For painting the cab edges, is Rustoleum okay to use for this. Or should I use something acrylic?

    The cab side are sanded to bare wood but I have a few spots of bondo, can the decal be placed directly over or do they need to be sealed as well? I'm trying to keep the surface as flat as possible. I also have rapid prep and rapid tack on hand.

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