Quoted from flynnibus:But even if you do a dry install, you should be able to position the decal FIRST, secure it, then lift some of it back, remove the backing, install that section, and then remove your securing stuff and work the rest of decal on by working up from your initial spot. Lookup any vinyl install video where they talk about placing, then removing about 1/4 of the backing to start your initial placement. you then remove your securing points and work the rest of the way back.
This is good info and close to what I did. I did my decaling myself, each decal in two sections.
PXL_20210326_020339832 (resized).jpg
Lay out your decals to flatten them, overnight at least!
PXL_20210326_213507703.NIGHT (resized).jpg
Lightly weigh down one side to avoid large shifts of the decal when moving it. Measure the sides (and do a little math) to make sure you have consistent edges and a good amount of border to remove.
PXL_20210327_031629593 (resized).jpg
Then add a LOT more weight to that side in order to lock in that side.
PXL_20210327_042848854 (resized).jpg
Lay the unsecured side of the decal over the weighted side, peel back half the backing and cut that half of the backing in a single stroke. TAKE YOUR TACK RAG AND CLEAN THE EXPOSED HALF OF THE CABINET THIS IS THE LAST CHANCE YOU WILL HAVE TO CLEAN ANY TRASH. Also eyeball your exposed decal for any obvious hair or dirt it may have picked up while being exposed. Then pull the sticky side of the decal *tightly* down over the exposed side and gently squeegee out the bubbles out to the sides. I got a 4 in foam covered squeegee to prevent scratches. Keep doing this until the bubbles are eliminated.
PXL_20210327_042805604 (resized).jpg
Transfer your weighted objects to the other side and repeat the process! You won't have to cut the backing on the second pass of course, but it is worth putting the weight down to avoid pulling up the decal you laid down.
A great tip I picked up from High_End_Pins is to SAND OFF THE EDGES instead of cutting them. You'll be terrified of that but it works. It works! Take about a 220 flat sanding block and sand your decaled edges (you DO have sharp edges on your corners, right) at about a 30 degree angle. This trims and seals the decal against the cabinet and gives a clean edge that matches factory. Fill the exposed front and back edges with oil-based pen.
All of this is better said by Chris:
As an aside, the most difficult decal to do was the front of the cabinet. The rest were easy(er). Lining up the start button along with measuring eight different locations to ensure uniformity was very difficult. I found you do not have to put a backer in the coin door hole if you pull your decal TIGHT.