(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide


By vid1900

5 years ago



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  • 637 posts
  • 145 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by Lido
  • Topic is favorited by 491 Pinsiders

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    There are 637 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 13.
    #601 5 months ago

    Had some issues where an operator cut a hole in the cabinet for a slide in coin drawer. Couldn't find a donor replacement so had to come up with my a fix. It actually came out better than expected.

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    #602 5 months ago
    Quoted from TheLaw:

    Wow that looks awesome. Never done a repaint yet.

    I did my first repaint last year (Bally Black Jack) with practically zero experience. Last time I did anything like this was woodshop in high school 35 years ago. Using Pinball Pimp's stencils was a breeze, and the support and reference material on Pinside was awesome for a few cabinet repairs I had to do prior to painting. I've got some tune up maintenance to do on a few pins before I start my next project - putting in a hardtop in my EBD and doing a cabinet repaint.

    BJ Before and After (resized).jpg
    #603 5 months ago

    Impressive!

    #605 5 months ago

    radfordian3505 and marksf123. What paint did y'all use???

    #606 5 months ago

    Bit of a newb question:
    What is the best way to spot sand this flat and not scratch up the surrounding paint?
    Tape then try to feather it?

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    #607 5 months ago
    Quoted from KenM:

    Bit of a newb question:
    What is the best way to spot sand this flat and not scratch up the surrounding paint?
    Tape then try to feather it?[quoted image]

    Yep

    #608 5 months ago
    Quoted from marksf123:

    Had some issues where an operator cut a hole in the cabinet for a slide in coin drawer. Couldn't find a donor replacement so had to come up with my a fix. It actually came out better than expected.

    LOL
    I have a cab with a locking drawer cut into it as well

    #609 5 months ago
    Quoted from LEE:

    LOL
    I have a cab with a locking drawer cut into it as well

    They really must of hated opening the coin door to take a saw to the cabinet like that and think it is a good idea.

    #610 5 months ago
    Quoted from feveredpinhead:

    radfordian3505 and marksf123. What paint did y'all use???

    My game was a BSD decal.

    #611 5 months ago
    Quoted from marksf123:

    They really must of hated opening the coin door to take a saw to the cabinet like that and think it is a good idea.

    Like WTH were they thinking??????

    I plan to do what you did,,,,,, someday

    2 weeks later
    #612 4 months ago

    Thanks to everyone for all the great info! I’m new to woodworking but with all these great tips I’m getting confident enough to start tackling some restoration of my Gottlieb Big Hit cabinet. I’m starting with replacing the back box’s badly damaged plywood face. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the original was not glued but just stapled on. Now I have to rethink my original plan to glue the replacement on. Other than it wasn’t done that way originally, are there any cons to using some glue for a tighter fit?

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    #613 4 months ago
    Quoted from Larrymc:

    Thanks to everyone for all the great info! I’m new to woodworking but with all these great tips I’m getting confident enough to start tackling some restoration of my Gottlieb Big Hit cabinet. I’m starting with replacing the back box’s badly damaged plywood face. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the original was not glued but just stapled on. Now I have to rethink my original plan to glue the replacement on. Other than it wasn’t done that way originally, are there any cons to using some glue for a tighter fit?[quoted image]

    Glue, staple it, fill tiny staple holes with a filler.

    #614 4 months ago
    Quoted from feveredpinhead:

    radfordian3505 and marksf123. What paint did y'all use???

    Rustoleum 2x and it worked perfectly

    1 week later
    #615 4 months ago

    Vid - I have ordered a new DE leg bracket from Pinball Life for my Star Wars. How important is it that I fix this issue before putting it on? FYI the corner is not separating or anything and that triangle piece is pretty solid on top. They just tore up the wood using washers and nuts.

    Do I ...
    a) replace the whole triangle piece?
    b) cut out just the bottom (damaged) section and replace with new triangle piece?
    c) put the bracket on it and let it go because not worth causing instability?

    I have a tool to do flush cuts. I think I could remove and replace the piece and replace. But not sure how you would glue and staple it back on to be as good as the original.

    Any guidance is appreciated.

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    #616 4 months ago

    Hi all,

    I just picked up a Gottlieb Dimension. Without going into too much into the awful job that a previous owner did (probably a vendor), I had to remove the bottom board. The cabinet needs lots of squaring, gluing and filling.

    I have a few questions to start with.

    1. It looks like someone took a ball peen to the side. I'm wondering if you think bondo will work, or would there be a better way to go to fill the divets.

    2. What's do you feel is the best way to replace the bottom board, it's a 1971 Gottlieb wedge head cab, so originally there was a groove cut into the side boards to hold bottom board. Would it be best to slide 1/4" ply into the existing groove, or to route the top of the groove away, place a new sheet of ply on the lip and add trim to the top, where the old routed wood was?

    Thoughts?

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    #617 4 months ago

    sdm0

    Quoted from SDM0:

    But not sure how you would glue and staple it back on to be as good as the original.[quoted image]

    Good glue alone is as good or better than nails or screws. If you can cut that piece out, I would replace with a glued piece and you should be good as new.

    1 week later
    #618 4 months ago

    For my Monte Carlo, someone had drilled a hole in the cabinet for a credit switch that I plan to fill.

    I would need to touch up the patch as well as some other light dings and scratches. What type of paint would be good? Initially I was thinking acrylic but wasn’t sure that would hold up so well - so perhaps an enamel would be better?

    I don’t have an airbrush so this would be applied with a brush. Thanks!

    #619 4 months ago
    Quoted from pincity:

    For my Monte Carlo, someone had drilled a hole in the cabinet for a credit switch that I plan to fill.
    I would need to touch up the patch as well as some other light dings and scratches. What type of paint would be good? Initially I was thinking acrylic but wasn’t sure that would hold up so well - so perhaps an enamel would be better?
    I don’t have an airbrush so this would be applied with a brush. Thanks!

    Krylon rattle can is very close to the cheap paint they used originally.

    #620 4 months ago

    Thanks for the tip! The patch area has some green in addition to the black, and I read Krylon is an enamel, so I presume I would need another enamel type paint for the green, maybe testors?

    In my research I also saw acrylic enamels and wondered if anyone had tried those on a cabinet?

    #621 4 months ago
    Quoted from pincity:

    Thanks for the tip! The patch area has some green in addition to the black, and I read Krylon is an enamel, so I presume I would need another enamel type paint for the green, maybe testors?
    In my research I also saw acrylic enamels and wondered if anyone had tried those on a cabinet?

    Any acrylic enamel will work

    Take a sample to lowes and have mixed

    #622 4 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Prop the game up on some milk crates and pull the front legs off.
    Open up the corner joints with a flat screwdriver and and fill the gap with Titebond III glue.
    [quoted image]

    Replace old, crappy leg brackets, with newer style:
    [quoted image]
    http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144
    Put some leg bolts through the cab and into the leg brackets - before you put the bracket wood screws in - you don't want the bracket misaligned, believe me.
    I'll post some pictures of the process soon.

    Did anyone ever do the leg bracket switch out on an older bally cabinet? I have a Playboy I'm restoring, and getting ready to do leg brackets. I was going to put the old ones it, but I have a set of the newer brackets as well. Do they just screw in the sides? which way do they orient? Any tips?

    #623 4 months ago
    Quoted from Clnilsen:

    Did anyone ever do the leg bracket switch out on an older bally cabinet? I have a Playboy I'm restoring, and getting ready to do leg brackets. I was going to put the old ones it, but I have a set of the newer brackets as well. Do they just screw in the sides? which way do they orient? Any tips?

    Just align the leg bolts.
    Add washers or spacers if needed.

    1 week later
    #624 3 months ago

    For those who have upgraded the leg bolt brackets in there early bally SS machine, does it matter the orientation of the leg brackets? This is how I have them currently (They're just test fit in currently, not actually attached to the cabinet), but I think they are "upside down"? If I flip them 180 degrees, the bottom part is too long (aka hits the bottom of the cabinet) causing the threads to be too high relative to the leg bolt holes in the corner of the cabinet by about 1/4". Does it matter If I install them this way? I don't really have a way to cut these brackets.

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    #625 3 months ago

    Three of my last restorations...

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    #626 3 months ago
    Quoted from Clnilsen:

    For those who have upgraded the leg bolt brackets in there early bally SS machine, does it matter the orientation of the leg brackets? This is how I have them currently (They're just test fit in currently, not actually attached to the cabinet), but I think they are "upside down"? If I flip them 180 degrees, the bottom part is too long (aka hits the bottom of the cabinet) causing the threads to be too high relative to the leg bolt holes in the corner of the cabinet by about 1/4". Does it matter If I install them this way? I don't really have a way to cut these brackets.

    I cannot imagine it really matters which way it's flipped... you're adding so much more area, to disperse the load with the newer bracket vs the original little strips, it's gonna be way better by default.
    However... regardless of which way you end up.... just make sure you clean the backside of any paint in the area where the ground braid will contact the bracket. Otherwise, you defeat the purpose of grounding the legs/bolts for what it's worth.
    (I do like the magenta brackets!)

    #627 3 months ago
    Quoted from Timerider:

    I cannot imagine it really matters which way it's flipped... you're adding so much more area, to disperse the load with the newer bracket vs the original little strips, it's gonna be way better by default.
    However... regardless of which way you end up.... just make sure you clean the backside of any paint in the area where the ground braid will contact the bracket. Otherwise, you defeat the purpose of grounding the legs/bolts for what it's worth.
    (I do like the magenta brackets!)

    Thanks! I appreciate the insight on the paint removal too. I'm getting a bit HEP-py with this project

    3 months later
    #628 14 days ago

    I am restoring a solid state cabinet, and I want to get a nice smooth texture on my primer before putting the base paint and stencil.

    using R-O flat gray primer spray paint, I wanted to sand between the primer coat but I am not sure how long i should wait before sanding and then putting the next coat? 220 or 320 grit for the sand paper?

    #629 14 days ago

    I am not sure what R-O is but the product sheet should give dry times or instructions on the can.

    320 grit would be the lowest I would go depending on what type base coat you are using. Rattle cans paint hides more (goes on thicker) than automotive base coats.

    Base coats are made to be cleared over so you can sand the base coat as well before the clear is applied.

    #630 13 days ago
    Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

    I am not sure what R-O is but the product sheet should give dry times or instructions on the can.

    320 grit would be the lowest I would go depending on what type base coat you are using. Rattle cans paint hides more (goes on thicker) than automotive base coats.

    Base coats are made to be cleared over so you can sand the base coat as well before the clear is applied.

    Rust Oleum flat gray primer spray can is what i use, the instruction actually do not provide any direction on drying time between coat for sanding so i was curious...?

    I have no access to automotive clear coat so I was just thinking of doing gray primer with gray base color and stencil in black over. All with rattle cans.

    #631 13 days ago

    One way to tell is when sanding the primer if it balls up on the sand paper it is still wet and needs more cure time.

    #632 13 days ago
    Quoted from hisokajp:

    Rust Oleum flat gray primer spray can is what i use, the instruction actually do not provide any direction on drying time between coat for sanding so i was curious...?
    I have no access to automotive clear coat so I was just thinking of doing gray primer with gray base color and stencil in black over. All with rattle cans.

    I hate that primer. Its terrible.

    It takes days to dry on wood.

    Its ok on metal.

    Kilz original is way better and dries faster.

    1 week later
    #633 5 days ago

    This is on the back of a rifle game. The rest of the ply looks good but a lot is missing here. The veneer is also lifting.
    I'm thinking clean out loose material, glue and strap veneer, when glue is dry, fill in with resin and put a damn on the edge.
    Sound good?

    pasted_image (resized).png
    #634 5 days ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    This is on the back of a rifle game. The rest of the ply looks good but a lot is missing here. The veneer is also lifting.
    I'm thinking clean out loose material, glue and strap veneer, when glue is dry, fill in with resin and put a damn on the edge.
    Sound good?
    [quoted image]

    depending on how big the damage is, it may be easier to cut out that chunk and glue in a replacement square of good wood.

    #635 17 hours ago

    I wish I'd thought to do the slightest bit of reading before doing this quick and dirty re-glue on my Fish Tales today. Hope it holds, but I really hope I didn't make the cabinet worse so I can't do it properly when time allows.

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    #636 10 hours ago
    Quoted from Lido:

    I wish I'd thought to do the slightest bit of reading before doing this quick and dirty re-glue on my Fish Tales today. Hope it holds, but I really hope I didn't make the cabinet worse so I can't do it properly when time allows.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Thats pretty much it.

    Glue, clamp and square up the cab. Fire in 2" brads where needed.

    You can't beat the pony clamps and pipe from harbor freight.

    Way better than straps.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18-Volt-ONE-Cordless-AirStrike-18-Gauge-Brad-Nailer-Tool-Only-with-Sample-Nails-P320/203810823

    https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-3-4-quarter-inch-heavy-duty-cast-iron-pipe-clamp-31255.html

    #637 6 hours ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    Thats pretty much it.
    Glue, clamp and square up the cab. Fire in 2" brads where needed.
    You can't beat the pony clamps and pipe from harbor freight.
    Way better than straps.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18-Volt-ONE-Cordless-AirStrike-18-Gauge-Brad-Nailer-Tool-Only-with-Sample-Nails-P320/203810823
    https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-3-4-quarter-inch-heavy-duty-cast-iron-pipe-clamp-31255.html

    Thanks. That nailer looks like something I'd hurt myself with.

    Definitely need to pick up some of thoes clamps that can go the length of the cabinet.

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