(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide

By vid1900

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 747 posts
  • 161 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by nerdygrrl
  • Topic is favorited by 526 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    View topic image gallery

    0-6 (resized).jpeg
    P6120024 (resized).JPG
    P6120021 (resized).JPG
    P6120022 (resized).JPG
    P6120023 (resized).JPG
    20210602_165024 (resized).jpg
    20210602_165628 (resized).jpg
    20210602_165639 (resized).jpg
    20210602_165251 (resized).jpg
    20210602_165258 (resized).jpg
    93440631-2063-4A4F-98A8-59145A69FA6F (resized).jpeg
    646D2D70-9FBD-4F28-8221-CF721D5444C9 (resized).jpeg
    20210419_164207 (resized).jpg
    20210503_182128 (resized).jpg
    IMG_9374 (resized).JPG
    IMG_9373 (resized).JPG

    Topic index (key posts)

    8 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

    There are 747 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 15.
    #601 1 year ago

    Had some issues where an operator cut a hole in the cabinet for a slide in coin drawer. Couldn't find a donor replacement so had to come up with my a fix. It actually came out better than expected.

    IMG_4855 (resized).JPGIMG_5107 (resized).JPG
    10
    #602 1 year ago
    Quoted from TheLaw:

    Wow that looks awesome. Never done a repaint yet.

    I did my first repaint last year (Bally Black Jack) with practically zero experience. Last time I did anything like this was woodshop in high school 35 years ago. Using Pinball Pimp's stencils was a breeze, and the support and reference material on Pinside was awesome for a few cabinet repairs I had to do prior to painting. I've got some tune up maintenance to do on a few pins before I start my next project - putting in a hardtop in my EBD and doing a cabinet repaint.

    BJ Before and After (resized).jpg
    #603 1 year ago

    Impressive!

    #605 1 year ago

    radfordian3505 and marksf123. What paint did y'all use???

    #606 1 year ago

    Bit of a newb question:
    What is the best way to spot sand this flat and not scratch up the surrounding paint?
    Tape then try to feather it?

    IMG_20200331_204745701 (resized).jpg
    #607 1 year ago
    Quoted from KenM:

    Bit of a newb question:
    What is the best way to spot sand this flat and not scratch up the surrounding paint?
    Tape then try to feather it?[quoted image]

    Yep

    #608 1 year ago
    Quoted from marksf123:

    Had some issues where an operator cut a hole in the cabinet for a slide in coin drawer. Couldn't find a donor replacement so had to come up with my a fix. It actually came out better than expected.

    LOL
    I have a cab with a locking drawer cut into it as well

    #609 1 year ago
    Quoted from LEE:

    LOL
    I have a cab with a locking drawer cut into it as well

    They really must of hated opening the coin door to take a saw to the cabinet like that and think it is a good idea.

    #610 1 year ago
    Quoted from feveredpinhead:

    radfordian3505 and marksf123. What paint did y'all use???

    My game was a BSD decal.

    #611 1 year ago
    Quoted from marksf123:

    They really must of hated opening the coin door to take a saw to the cabinet like that and think it is a good idea.

    Like WTH were they thinking??????

    I plan to do what you did,,,,,, someday

    2 weeks later
    #612 1 year ago

    Thanks to everyone for all the great info! I’m new to woodworking but with all these great tips I’m getting confident enough to start tackling some restoration of my Gottlieb Big Hit cabinet. I’m starting with replacing the back box’s badly damaged plywood face. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the original was not glued but just stapled on. Now I have to rethink my original plan to glue the replacement on. Other than it wasn’t done that way originally, are there any cons to using some glue for a tighter fit?

    FC446DB5-E1E4-4B40-8090-535855F0D188 (resized).jpeg
    #613 1 year ago
    Quoted from Larrymc:

    Thanks to everyone for all the great info! I’m new to woodworking but with all these great tips I’m getting confident enough to start tackling some restoration of my Gottlieb Big Hit cabinet. I’m starting with replacing the back box’s badly damaged plywood face. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the original was not glued but just stapled on. Now I have to rethink my original plan to glue the replacement on. Other than it wasn’t done that way originally, are there any cons to using some glue for a tighter fit?[quoted image]

    Glue, staple it, fill tiny staple holes with a filler.

    #614 1 year ago
    Quoted from feveredpinhead:

    radfordian3505 and marksf123. What paint did y'all use???

    Rustoleum 2x and it worked perfectly

    1 week later
    #615 1 year ago

    Vid - I have ordered a new DE leg bracket from Pinball Life for my Star Wars. How important is it that I fix this issue before putting it on? FYI the corner is not separating or anything and that triangle piece is pretty solid on top. They just tore up the wood using washers and nuts.

    Do I ...
    a) replace the whole triangle piece?
    b) cut out just the bottom (damaged) section and replace with new triangle piece?
    c) put the bracket on it and let it go because not worth causing instability?

    I have a tool to do flush cuts. I think I could remove and replace the piece and replace. But not sure how you would glue and staple it back on to be as good as the original.

    Any guidance is appreciated.

    swcorner (resized).jpg

    #616 1 year ago

    Hi all,

    I just picked up a Gottlieb Dimension. Without going into too much into the awful job that a previous owner did (probably a vendor), I had to remove the bottom board. The cabinet needs lots of squaring, gluing and filling.

    I have a few questions to start with.

    1. It looks like someone took a ball peen to the side. I'm wondering if you think bondo will work, or would there be a better way to go to fill the divets.

    2. What's do you feel is the best way to replace the bottom board, it's a 1971 Gottlieb wedge head cab, so originally there was a groove cut into the side boards to hold bottom board. Would it be best to slide 1/4" ply into the existing groove, or to route the top of the groove away, place a new sheet of ply on the lip and add trim to the top, where the old routed wood was?

    Thoughts?

    IMG_6759 (resized).jpgIMG_2163 (resized).jpgIMG_9644 (resized).jpg
    #617 1 year ago

    SDM0

    Quoted from SDM0:

    But not sure how you would glue and staple it back on to be as good as the original.[quoted image]

    Good glue alone is as good or better than nails or screws. If you can cut that piece out, I would replace with a glued piece and you should be good as new.

    1 week later
    #618 1 year ago

    For my Monte Carlo, someone had drilled a hole in the cabinet for a credit switch that I plan to fill.

    I would need to touch up the patch as well as some other light dings and scratches. What type of paint would be good? Initially I was thinking acrylic but wasn’t sure that would hold up so well - so perhaps an enamel would be better?

    I don’t have an airbrush so this would be applied with a brush. Thanks!

    #619 1 year ago
    Quoted from pincity:

    For my Monte Carlo, someone had drilled a hole in the cabinet for a credit switch that I plan to fill.
    I would need to touch up the patch as well as some other light dings and scratches. What type of paint would be good? Initially I was thinking acrylic but wasn’t sure that would hold up so well - so perhaps an enamel would be better?
    I don’t have an airbrush so this would be applied with a brush. Thanks!

    Krylon rattle can is very close to the cheap paint they used originally.

    #620 1 year ago

    Thanks for the tip! The patch area has some green in addition to the black, and I read Krylon is an enamel, so I presume I would need another enamel type paint for the green, maybe testors?

    In my research I also saw acrylic enamels and wondered if anyone had tried those on a cabinet?

    #621 1 year ago
    Quoted from pincity:

    Thanks for the tip! The patch area has some green in addition to the black, and I read Krylon is an enamel, so I presume I would need another enamel type paint for the green, maybe testors?
    In my research I also saw acrylic enamels and wondered if anyone had tried those on a cabinet?

    Any acrylic enamel will work

    Take a sample to lowes and have mixed

    #622 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Prop the game up on some milk crates and pull the front legs off.
    Open up the corner joints with a flat screwdriver and and fill the gap with Titebond III glue.
    [quoted image]

    Replace old, crappy leg brackets, with newer style:
    [quoted image]
    http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144
    Put some leg bolts through the cab and into the leg brackets - before you put the bracket wood screws in - you don't want the bracket misaligned, believe me.
    I'll post some pictures of the process soon.

    Did anyone ever do the leg bracket switch out on an older bally cabinet? I have a Playboy I'm restoring, and getting ready to do leg brackets. I was going to put the old ones it, but I have a set of the newer brackets as well. Do they just screw in the sides? which way do they orient? Any tips?

    #623 1 year ago
    Quoted from Clnilsen:

    Did anyone ever do the leg bracket switch out on an older bally cabinet? I have a Playboy I'm restoring, and getting ready to do leg brackets. I was going to put the old ones it, but I have a set of the newer brackets as well. Do they just screw in the sides? which way do they orient? Any tips?

    Just align the leg bolts.
    Add washers or spacers if needed.

    1 week later
    #624 1 year ago

    For those who have upgraded the leg bolt brackets in there early bally SS machine, does it matter the orientation of the leg brackets? This is how I have them currently (They're just test fit in currently, not actually attached to the cabinet), but I think they are "upside down"? If I flip them 180 degrees, the bottom part is too long (aka hits the bottom of the cabinet) causing the threads to be too high relative to the leg bolt holes in the corner of the cabinet by about 1/4". Does it matter If I install them this way? I don't really have a way to cut these brackets.

    IMG_1822 (resized).jpeg
    #625 1 year ago

    Three of my last restorations...

    20180222_203559 (resized).jpg20180508_222303 (resized).jpg20181126_182929 (resized).jpg
    #626 1 year ago
    Quoted from Clnilsen:

    For those who have upgraded the leg bolt brackets in there early bally SS machine, does it matter the orientation of the leg brackets? This is how I have them currently (They're just test fit in currently, not actually attached to the cabinet), but I think they are "upside down"? If I flip them 180 degrees, the bottom part is too long (aka hits the bottom of the cabinet) causing the threads to be too high relative to the leg bolt holes in the corner of the cabinet by about 1/4". Does it matter If I install them this way? I don't really have a way to cut these brackets.

    I cannot imagine it really matters which way it's flipped... you're adding so much more area, to disperse the load with the newer bracket vs the original little strips, it's gonna be way better by default.
    However... regardless of which way you end up.... just make sure you clean the backside of any paint in the area where the ground braid will contact the bracket. Otherwise, you defeat the purpose of grounding the legs/bolts for what it's worth.
    (I do like the magenta brackets!)

    #627 1 year ago
    Quoted from Timerider:

    I cannot imagine it really matters which way it's flipped... you're adding so much more area, to disperse the load with the newer bracket vs the original little strips, it's gonna be way better by default.
    However... regardless of which way you end up.... just make sure you clean the backside of any paint in the area where the ground braid will contact the bracket. Otherwise, you defeat the purpose of grounding the legs/bolts for what it's worth.
    (I do like the magenta brackets!)

    Thanks! I appreciate the insight on the paint removal too. I'm getting a bit HEP-py with this project

    3 months later
    #628 9 months ago

    I am restoring a solid state cabinet, and I want to get a nice smooth texture on my primer before putting the base paint and stencil.

    using R-O flat gray primer spray paint, I wanted to sand between the primer coat but I am not sure how long i should wait before sanding and then putting the next coat? 220 or 320 grit for the sand paper?

    #629 9 months ago

    I am not sure what R-O is but the product sheet should give dry times or instructions on the can.

    320 grit would be the lowest I would go depending on what type base coat you are using. Rattle cans paint hides more (goes on thicker) than automotive base coats.

    Base coats are made to be cleared over so you can sand the base coat as well before the clear is applied.

    #630 9 months ago
    Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

    I am not sure what R-O is but the product sheet should give dry times or instructions on the can.

    320 grit would be the lowest I would go depending on what type base coat you are using. Rattle cans paint hides more (goes on thicker) than automotive base coats.

    Base coats are made to be cleared over so you can sand the base coat as well before the clear is applied.

    Rust Oleum flat gray primer spray can is what i use, the instruction actually do not provide any direction on drying time between coat for sanding so i was curious...?

    I have no access to automotive clear coat so I was just thinking of doing gray primer with gray base color and stencil in black over. All with rattle cans.

    #631 9 months ago

    One way to tell is when sanding the primer if it balls up on the sand paper it is still wet and needs more cure time.

    #632 9 months ago
    Quoted from hisokajp:

    Rust Oleum flat gray primer spray can is what i use, the instruction actually do not provide any direction on drying time between coat for sanding so i was curious...?
    I have no access to automotive clear coat so I was just thinking of doing gray primer with gray base color and stencil in black over. All with rattle cans.

    I hate that primer. Its terrible.

    It takes days to dry on wood.

    Its ok on metal.

    Kilz original is way better and dries faster.

    1 week later
    #633 9 months ago

    This is on the back of a rifle game. The rest of the ply looks good but a lot is missing here. The veneer is also lifting.
    I'm thinking clean out loose material, glue and strap veneer, when glue is dry, fill in with resin and put a damn on the edge.
    Sound good?

    pasted_image (resized).png
    #634 9 months ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    This is on the back of a rifle game. The rest of the ply looks good but a lot is missing here. The veneer is also lifting.
    I'm thinking clean out loose material, glue and strap veneer, when glue is dry, fill in with resin and put a damn on the edge.
    Sound good?
    [quoted image]

    depending on how big the damage is, it may be easier to cut out that chunk and glue in a replacement square of good wood.

    #635 9 months ago

    I wish I'd thought to do the slightest bit of reading before doing this quick and dirty re-glue on my Fish Tales today. Hope it holds, but I really hope I didn't make the cabinet worse so I can't do it properly when time allows.

    IMG_1370 (resized).JPGIMG_2269 (resized).JPGIMG_9071 (resized).JPG
    #636 9 months ago
    Quoted from Lido:

    I wish I'd thought to do the slightest bit of reading before doing this quick and dirty re-glue on my Fish Tales today. Hope it holds, but I really hope I didn't make the cabinet worse so I can't do it properly when time allows.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Thats pretty much it.

    Glue, clamp and square up the cab. Fire in 2" brads where needed.

    You can't beat the pony clamps and pipe from harbor freight.

    Way better than straps.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18-Volt-ONE-Cordless-AirStrike-18-Gauge-Brad-Nailer-Tool-Only-with-Sample-Nails-P320/203810823

    https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-3-4-quarter-inch-heavy-duty-cast-iron-pipe-clamp-31255.html

    #637 9 months ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    Thats pretty much it.
    Glue, clamp and square up the cab. Fire in 2" brads where needed.
    You can't beat the pony clamps and pipe from harbor freight.
    Way better than straps.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18-Volt-ONE-Cordless-AirStrike-18-Gauge-Brad-Nailer-Tool-Only-with-Sample-Nails-P320/203810823
    https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-3-4-quarter-inch-heavy-duty-cast-iron-pipe-clamp-31255.html

    Thanks. That nailer looks like something I'd hurt myself with.

    Definitely need to pick up some of thoes clamps that can go the length of the cabinet.

    #638 9 months ago

    This side is obviously rough.
    Veneer on the white portion is lifting the top 3 inches.
    My plan was to squirt glue/strap to lock down the veneer.
    Then lay on its side, create a dam, and use the resin to rebuild the corner.
    Thoughts?

    hh (resized).jpg
    #639 8 months ago

    I have used a router to remove damaged plywood leaving whatever veneer layers are good. Then i cut a-c or b -c finished plywood to make the thickness i need. It is sold in 2x2 and 2x4 sheets at home crapo.
    I have also purchased 1/8 birch plywood from rockler and reskinned by routing the surface 1/8 and glue on birch.
    No matter what you do you will be into that cabinet for some time and money. Might be cheaper/ quicker to find a doner cab.

    4 weeks later
    #640 7 months ago

    My Midway Haunted House is missing some wood and veneer on the corner.
    I already cut a new top piece I haven't secured in yet.
    Thinking I could cut some plywood pieces outlined in red and glue in.
    Then lay it on it's side and fill in the missing veneer with fiberglass resin.

    Thoughts?
    I'm hesitant because it's a fairly large area (4"x4").
    But I've never used the fiberglass resin yet so wondering if this would be just fine.

    Figured worst case I'd just cut out the bad and biscuit in a new corner.

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #641 7 months ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    My Midway Haunted House is missing some wood and veneer on the corner.
    I already cut a new top piece I haven't secured in yet.
    Thinking I could cut some plywood pieces outlined in red and glue in.
    Then lay it on it's side and fill in the missing veneer with epoxy resin.
    Thoughts?
    I'm hesitant because it's a fairly large area (4"x4").
    But I've never used the epoxy resin yet so wondering if this would be just fine.
    Figured worst case I'd just cut out the bad and biscuit in a new corner.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Fiberglass it.

    #642 7 months ago

    Yep, with that level of repair Bondo is a mistake. For the void, find out how deep it is and use a paint stick, dowel, etc. to fill that void about 1/4" below what would be flush. Then fill repair with short strand fiberglass filler.

    CHECK THAT CAB CAREFULLY FOR OTHER WOOD ROT OR DAMAGE. Normally if a section of ply that large is missing, it is indicative of other damage. Absolutely make sure you catch everything. If plywood is missing more than one ply, I typically cut out and fit in a new piece, as plywood really loses strength if more than one ply is missing.

    1 week later
    #643 7 months ago

    I'm curious as to what others are doing with the metal backbox doors on old EM machines that you are restoring. Mine is serviceable; it's got a couple of wrinkles in the sides as though somebody tried to pry it out, and a bit of corrosion here and there. Nothing major wrong though. I've given thought to a few scenarios: Clean it up and keep it as is; clean it up and paint it to match the cabinet base color; replace it with a plywood panel painted to match, or perhaps a mix - stiffen the existing panel with some plywood and paint (or not). These last two are not high on my list, I should say, but are possibilities.

    Thoughts?

    #644 7 months ago
    Quoted from PinballBillinFL:

    I'm curious as to what others are doing with the metal backbox doors on old EM machines

    If metal ok then you can repaint or fill and repaint if your ok doing that, if metal is bad then sandblast and powder coat.
    You could make one out of wood and repaint or just buy a new one and leave "ohh naturel"
    Personally for me i do the powdercoat option.

    #645 7 months ago
    Quoted from PinballBillinFL:

    I'm curious as to what others are doing with the metal backbox doors on old EM machines that you are restoring. Mine is serviceable; it's got a couple of wrinkles in the sides as though somebody tried to pry it out, and a bit of corrosion here and there. Nothing major wrong though. I've given thought to a few scenarios: Clean it up and keep it as is; clean it up and paint it to match the cabinet base color; replace it with a plywood panel painted to match, or perhaps a mix - stiffen the existing panel with some plywood and paint (or not). These last two are not high on my list, I should say, but are possibilities.
    Thoughts?

    You can have one made as well at any welding or fabricating shop.

    #646 7 months ago
    Quoted from Stretch7:

    If metal ok then you can repaint or fill and repaint if your ok doing that, if metal is bad then sandblast and powder coat.
    You could make one out of wood and repaint or just buy a new one and leave "ohh naturel"
    Personally for me i do the powdercoat option.

    Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

    You can have one made as well at any welding or fabricating shop.

    Ah, powder coat! Great idea! I took the door and the channel to a local shop for an estimate, and they also recommended a fab shop to have a new door made if that's the path I decide to take. I re-fit the door in the backbox, and it's more bent than I remember, so a new one seems the best course. In for a penny, in for a dollar, I guess!

    My thought was do do the door in the same color as the base color of the cabinet, but has anybody tried any contrasting/complementary colors?

    2 months later
    #647 5 months ago

    Repainting a Classic Stern cabinet right now -- anyone know where I can pick up these rubber pieces used to cushion the playfield on the neck? Can't find them through any of the usual suspects.

    Screen Shot 2021-01-07 at 5.06.03 PM (resized).png
    1 month later
    #649 4 months ago

    Just got done replacing the back part of the Bally Fathom cabinet, replacing the broken and fractured MDF with some fresh plywood. Now I need to drill out the holes for the leg bolts. Any suggestions on which guide/jig works best? I can't use the inside wood block as a guide to drill from the inside as it was broken.
    655D9833-ACC0-41AD-96AA-AA58E80A72E6 (resized).jpeg

    27B7B705-DA8D-4AE2-A8BA-5980E49B0FA5 (resized).jpeg
    #650 4 months ago
    Quoted from AUKraut:

    Any suggestions on which guide/jig works best?

    Drilling half a hole is going to be hard, jig or not I would say.
    I would probably have glued in a half dowel in the existing holes, then installed the back panel, then drilled out the holes with a Brad point drill bit.

    A drill jig made of two short pces of 2x4s screwed together to form a corner and drilled in a press drill at proper angle can be used to help drilling the holes in the cab.

    There are 747 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 15.

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside