Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide

(Topic ID: 132130)

Cabinet Restoration - Vid's Guide


By vid1900

3 years ago



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  • 533 posts
  • 109 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by Skins
  • Topic is favorited by 389 Pinsiders

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    There are 533 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 11.
    #501 3 months ago
    Quoted from tsinger873:

    Can someone please describe the process of stripping or sanding the cabinet? Can you begin with sandpaper or do you normally use a liquid paint stripper then move on to paper? Does all of the original paint have to be removed down to bare wood before you prime and paint it or just enough to get a smooth finish?

    If the cabinet is just painted... not decals... save yourself the time and cleanup and just sand. If you use stripper... you’ll still be doing a sanding pass anyways. Use a heavy grit and just knock it out quick with an orbital sander. Normally you strip to wood if u are chasing the best finish. Less variables.

    #502 3 months ago

    Thank you Sir!

    #504 3 months ago

    Keep in mind that old cabs, esp EM's may have lead paint - in the paint and leached into wood. Protect yourself (respirator, hand washing, shop coveralls for this purpose only) and control/collect/dispose of resulting dust. I use a citrus based stripper to remove the bulk of the paint thus reducing the hazard and sand with an attached vac w/ filter and/or outside.

    #505 3 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    5. Glue up
    Here is the big moment.
    Once you apply the glue, the clock starts ticking.
    Don't look at your phone, don't let your boyfriend talk to you, keep your head on straight.
    You already did your dry run, so you KNOW the joint will clamp up squarely and you know how many clamps you will need.
    Use an Acid Brush, to apply glue to 100% of the joint on both sides.
    [quoted image]
    Apply more glue than necessary, it's cheap, and any extra will simply squeeze out and get wiped away.
    Make sure your clamping leaves room to wipe the extra glue away.
    Use a damp (not wet) cloth to wipe away the extra.
    How do you know if you used enough glue?
    You are looking for a 100% Squeezeout once clamping pressure is applied:
    [quoted image]
    Even on the inside, we want a 100% Squeeze out, the sign of a quality glue joint:
    [quoted image]
    Wipe up any excess and check for squareness one last time before you let the joint sit overnight.
    6. Once the joint is dry the next day, put the leg back on the game.
    If you installed a new Gusset, drill it out with an 3/8" drill bit, using the outside cab holes as your guide.

    Just an FYI from one of the pics in this post. You should always clamp using a block.

    The block does two things:

    1. Protects work piece from indentations from the clamp face. You don't have to over-tighten to get indentations. Softer woods and plywoods often are not hard enough to accept suitable clamping pressure.
    2. Distributes the clamping pressure more uniformly over a larger area. In this case, I would have a simple 2x4 cut to the length of the cab joint and apply multiple clamps.

    One of the most common errors, if not the most common error, in woodworking is not appropriately applying clamps. Hint: there is no such thing as too many clamps.

    #506 3 months ago
    Quoted from robotron911:

    Just an FYI from one of the pics in this post. You should always clamp using a block.
    The block does two things:
    1. Protects work piece from indentations from the clamp face. You don't have to over-tighten to get indentations. Softer woods and plywoods often are not hard enough to accept suitable clamping pressure.
    2. Distributes the clamping pressure more uniformly over a larger area. In this case, I would have a simple 2x4 cut to the length of the cab joint and apply multiple clamps.
    One of the most common errors, if not the most common error, in woodworking is not appropriately applying clamps. Hint: there is no such thing as too many clamps.

    Great points. Sometimes though the clamp is not large enough to accomodate the extra block as we've all found out in the past.

    #507 3 months ago

    Too also add- use parchment paper under blocks/clamps, etc to prevent glueing unwanted items together.

    #508 3 months ago
    Quoted from robotron911:

    Just an FYI from one of the pics in this post. You should always clamp using a block.
    The block does two things:
    1. Protects work piece from indentations from the clamp face. You don't have to over-tighten to get indentations. Softer woods and plywoods often are not hard enough to accept suitable clamping pressure.
    2. Distributes the clamping pressure more uniformly over a larger area. In this case, I would have a simple 2x4 cut to the length of the cab joint and apply multiple clamps.
    One of the most common errors, if not the most common error, in woodworking is not appropriately applying clamps. Hint: there is no such thing as too many clamps.

    Yep blocks (called Cauls by us woodworkers) help bring even pressure across a panel.

    When I did the test run (before applying glue), the parts locked perfectly together with no gaps at all with the clamps as shown.

    So I did not want to "fake it" when that is exactly all the repair needed.

    I've had other games that needed 5 total clamps & 2 Cauls to resquare the cab, so it's not one size fits all.

    I once fixed a cab with 2 ratchet straps and some waxed paper around the corner to keep the glue from forever sticking the the straps.

    It was in a restaurant and I did not have any tools with me except the straps, lol. The owner had some Elmers glue. Still holding to this day.

    I've got a SBM in the shop right now with the whole front panel off, I'll see what it takes to fix it, and post pics (of course).

    2 weeks later
    #509 87 days ago

    Two questions:

    How do you properly remove the metal security plate from a classic Bally?

    How do you quickly remove the panel? (since there isn't a need for these in home use)

    metal plate (resized).jpg

    #510 87 days ago
    Quoted from djblouw:

    Two questions:

    How do you properly remove the metal security plate from a classic Bally?

    How do you quickly remove the panel? (since there isn't a need for these in home use)

    It depends on if you are going to reuse it.

    If you are just making a new ghetto plate (usually out of a door kicker plate), then just pry it up with a screwdriver, then pull the staples out with a pair of Vise-Grips

    If you need to reuse it, put a heavy scraper under the plate and slowly lift it up, puling staples as you go.

    #511 87 days ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    It depends on if you are going to reuse it.
    If you are just making a new ghetto plate (usually out of a door kicker plate), then just pry it up with a screwdriver, then pull the staples out with a pair of Vise-Grips
    If you need to reuse it, put a heavy scraper under the plate and slowly lift it up, puling staples as you go.

    Thanks for the reply. I can get the nails out (with a little work). The problem is removing it from the machine. It doesn't want to flex/bend enough to pull it out, since its very rigid.

    My fear is the only way to remove it would be to cut the trim pieces holding it in around that area. But these also hold the floor in the cabinet.

    #512 87 days ago

    A router with an edge guide can remove 1/8" of the plywood lip on one side. Easily replaced latter.

    Or just sandblast it in place and reprime and repaint

    #513 87 days ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    A router with an edge guide can remove 1/8" of the plywood lip on one side. Easily replaced latter.
    Or just sandblast it in place and reprime and repaint

    Thanks for confirming. I was hoping there was a super secret way of removing this. I'll have to weigh my options for doing this.

    #514 87 days ago
    Quoted from djblouw:

    Thanks for confirming. I was hoping there was a super secret way of removing this. I'll have to weigh my options for doing this.

    Just like if I'm replacing the entire bottom, I rout off 1/8" lip from two adjoining side of the bottom of the cab.

    Easily replaced by wooden "windown screen molding" from the home center

    #515 86 days ago
    Quoted from djblouw:

    Two questions:
    How do you properly remove the metal security plate from a classic Bally?
    How do you quickly remove the panel? (since there isn't a need for these in home use)
    [quoted image]

    I just got one out by removing the T headed nails, then lifted it up enough to grab it with vice grips. I tapped the vice grips towards the back of the cabinet. Once it cracked free I pried up and out, the plate was fine. I trimmed the corners at the front a little and was able reinstall it.

    #516 86 days ago

    I ended up taking a sharpened scraper, and could split a couple layers of the plywood off the cabinet. This allowed for the plate to be removed without bending it. I'll end up putting the trim piece back on with window screen molding, as Vid mentioned.

    1 month later
    #517 42 days ago

    Just got a Diner.

    Outside artwork needs some TLC.

    As a first time pinball owner, I’m seeking some advice.

    Wondering just to leave it alone, attempt to touch it up, or just get new side art.

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    #518 41 days ago

    ^ that's going to be a big job!

    If it's your first pin, I'd play and enjoy it for a while, as is.

    Then after a year, you could get a stencil kit if you totally love the game.

    #519 35 days ago

    Vid, what would your approach be to this large hole in my TZ project cabinet? The game was definitely mistreated. possibly dropped off a loading dock. And at some point someone did some major damage with overtightened straps.

    The non pinball internet says popcicle sticks and wood putty. Would this be a better job for fiberglass resin?
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    #520 35 days ago

    Vid, the local birch plywood(wanted to try this route before MDO, is the standard plywood sizing. So the 3/4" is not the full 3/4".

    The old williams cabinets had the full 3/4" wood. Is this something I can somewhat easily find or should I try and just use the 23/32”?

    #521 34 days ago
    Quoted from McSquid:

    The non pinball internet says popcicle sticks and wood putty. Would this be a better job for fiberglass resin?

    Wood putty will shrink way too much.

    I'd clean up the edges and scarf in a piece of plywood.

    Fill gaps with fiberglass resin, skim with easy to sand Bondo.

    Quoted from lordloss:

    Vid, the local birch plywood(wanted to try this route before MDO, is the standard plywood sizing. So the 3/4" is not the full 3/4".

    The old williams cabinets had the full 3/4" wood. Is this something I can somewhat easily find or should I try and just use the 23/32”?

    Some real plywood wholesalers have 3/4" Baltic Birch, but you don't need anything fancy for this patch.

    Find some MDF that's 3/4" and patch it in.

    3 weeks later
    #522 11 days ago

    I just got a Flash project, and I noticed some wierd splinter on the side of the cabinet. The inside doesn't show anything so it wasn't bent/broken. Any ideas on what would be a good way to go on this? pry off the splinters and fill with bondo or try and lift a little and squeeze some glue underneath and clamp or what?

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    #523 9 days ago
    Quoted from mark532011:

    I just got a Flash project, and I noticed some wierd splinter on the side of the cabinet. The inside doesn't show anything so it wasn't bent/broken. Any ideas on what would be a good way to go on this?

    That's some nice checking you got in that top layer.

    Poke under with an awl and see if there is a void.

    If not, then lift, glue and clamp. Bondo any remaining hole.

    If a void, fill with fiberglass resin (lay cab on it's side and fill void).

    #524 9 days ago

    well slight separated corner... i'll to see what the inside looks like next *_*

    20190110_082024 (resized).jpg

    #525 9 days ago
    Quoted from hisokajp:

    well slight separated corner... i'll to see what the inside looks like next *_*
    [quoted image]

    Just need a little gorilla tape

    #526 9 days ago
    Quoted from hisokajp:

    well slight separated corner... i'll to see what the inside looks like next *_*
    [quoted image]

    Snip off the nail brads and it should be an easy re-glue.

    At least most the damage is under the leg!

    #527 9 days ago

    Put the leg back on. No one is even going to notice that.

    #528 8 days ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    That's some nice checking you got in that top layer.
    Poke under with an awl and see if there is a void.
    If not, then lift, glue and clamp. Bondo any remaining hole.
    If a void, fill with fiberglass resin (lay cab on it's side and fill void).

    Thanks!

    #529 7 days ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Snip off the nail brads and it should be an easy re-glue.
    At least most the damage is under the leg!

    Agree, looks worse than it is

    #530 7 days ago

    Any tips on what to do about it this edge?

    I'd like to strengthen it up. It leaves a pile of chips underneath.

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    #531 7 days ago
    Quoted from kcZ:

    Any tips on what to do about it this edge?
    I'd like to strengthen it up. It leaves a pile of chips underneath.
    [quoted image]

    I have soaked such particle board with wood glue with good results.

    #532 7 days ago
    Quoted from dasvis:

    I have soaked such particle board with wood glue with good results.

    I was tempted to do such thing... clamp it between some boards and soak it with glue. I'll give that a try first. My second thought was to cut it out and replace it but that just seems excessive.

    #533 7 days ago
    Quoted from kcZ:

    Any tips on what to do about it this edge?
    I'd like to strengthen it up. It leaves a pile of chips underneath.
    [quoted image]

    Fiberglass resin.

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