How did you apply the primer?

Did you use a tac rag to wipe it down before spraying?

Let it dry completely, sand it down flat, wipe down with prep solution just dampened on a rag, tack rag it, spray again in a clean environment. or a cheap-o spray booth made of PVC pipe and thin drop cloths.

ebay.com link: p

Use Kilz original roll on primer. Dries fast sands and fills easy.

prep solution kills wax and grease, make the paint or primer stick better.

A gentle damp wipe-down is all it takes.

Its cheap insurance against blistering and lifting.

Kilz original oil based primer.
Way cheaper than spray on primer.

Spraying primer doesnt matter as you have to sand it out each time anyways.

Dry sand the primer! Dont wet sand it. It will raise the wood.

The wood filler is OK. But IMO wood filler is better for small jobs.

Bondo works well. But the trick is how you spread around and knowing when to work it.

With Bondo it helps to have the cheese grater to knock down the big chunks.

I would highly suggest taking a time out, and going through a few cabinet restoration topics here on Pinside... it's gonna save you time and money... here's my favorite... lots of really good info on products, techniques, safety tips, etc...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide/page/12#post-5335452

Half-time dries fast and feathers out perfectly.

So, plain bondo. Its cheap.

And then half-time, its a good glazing putty. Sands perfectly.

Then primer. Then paint etc.

Its a 3 way process

Yup, my vote is Bondo. But spread it THIN, let it set then light sand. If needed, apply a second thin coat, sand, then prime.

If the scratches are that small then you probably should be using a polyester filler. Finer and smoother then bondo. Half-time works well. Regardless of which one you choose it should be 2 component.

You can spend a fortune doing it wrong and then doing it wrong again several times.

Or you can do it right the first time.

Follow vids guide to start.

My first decal replacement I painted cabinet and installed using wet method,won't do that again .The games I've done since I do with bare wood cabinet .There is a adhesive remover I think it's 3m brand its helps if you have stubborn glue to remove

Not wasted, really. Lesson learned! I concur with most of the comments here, regarding bondo, glazing putty, etc. and especially Dono's comment regarding the wealth of knowledge on pinside, especially Vid's guide.

Looks good.

People roll on primer instead of clear finshes to stabilize the colors and make the base color uniform.

Some decals are transluscent and you can see color variations thru the decals.

You should be ok with black decals though.

Paint the edges black about 3" in as well as holes for start button etc.

Trim decals 1/8" in from all edges including corners after they are installed.

Harbor freight has a long straight edge cheap, as well as a shorter one.

I use single edge razor blades from harbor freight.

One per cut. They are cheap.

You really only need to do tbe egdes.

This avoides higher cost and potential runs in tbe paint.

If you are stabilizing the color.
Kilz original oil based roll on primer is cheaper and easier ir use.

Primer helps you to see surface imperfections as its a uniform color.

People also apply a speckled guide coat black primer after sanding the primer to check for flatness while block sanding it out.

Then final Sand, Then paint the egdes.

Still with black decals i dont think you need a uniform color.

looking great !

any alcohol spills add character and prime it for the future,,,

Looks real good!

Check for bumps in the paint and cab before you put the decals.

Sand as needed.

Use a felt squeegee and use the wet method of application.

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Felt-Edge-Decal-Squeegee/dp/B00I4CLY6A

Use this stuff for final wipedown and application:

https://www.amazon.com/II-Application-Decals-Stickers-Sprayer/dp/B006RUGPVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4

Application fluid leaves no residue unlike dish soap, and promotes decal adhesion. It works with the glue to make it stick better after it dries.

It also allows a 30 min work time in case of mistakes.

I have had to completely pull off a decal 30 mins after it was squeegee'd down. Liberal amount of spray and caution saved me a lot of grief.

Have an exacto knife and plenty of new blades ready as well as single edge razor blades.

Dont use a utility knife it cuts too deep.

Use these to cover the cut edges that will be white

They are a perfect match.

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Paint-Marker-Medium/dp/B00WL2NM0K

I’m not an expert but I’ve done a few restorations. The more even that the sides etc are the easier the cab decals will go on. I put 3-4 coats of black on my police force and the decals came out pretty sweet

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Nice work!

Don’t think so. TZ used a three hole cabinet and the leg covers the last hole.

Hot digity dog, nice job!

Looks like a great job!

looks gorgeous, well done!