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(Topic ID: 262238)

Cabinet priming... did I screw the pooch?


By Occelot

9 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 43 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by pinballinreno
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#1 9 months ago

Hey guys, I “thought” I got all the adhesive and straggler wood thingies. I just primed it with a couple layers and noticed these danglers. My plan is to sand in a few hours and then re prime. Is that wishful thinking? Anyone run into this whilst doing a decal job?

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#2 9 months ago
Quoted from Occelot:

Hey guys, I “thought” I got all the adhesive and straggler wood thingies. I just primed it with a couple layers and noticed these danglers. My plan is to sand in a few hours and then re prime. Is that wishful thinking? Anyone run into this whilst doing a decal job?[quoted image]

How did you apply the primer?

#3 9 months ago

Spray can

#4 9 months ago

Did you use a tac rag to wipe it down before spraying?

#5 9 months ago

I used a t shirt

#6 9 months ago
Quoted from Occelot:

I used a t shirt

Let it dry completely, sand it down flat, wipe down with prep solution just dampened on a rag, tack rag it, spray again in a clean environment. or a cheap-o spray booth made of PVC pipe and thin drop cloths.

ebay.com link

#7 9 months ago

K, thanks. Just gave it a quick sand. The danglers came right off. I’ll check out that prep solution

#8 9 months ago

Use Kilz original roll on primer. Dries fast sands and fills easy.

#9 9 months ago
Quoted from Occelot:

K, thanks. Just gave it a quick sand. The danglers came right off. I’ll check out that prep solution

prep solution kills wax and grease, make the paint or primer stick better.

A gentle damp wipe-down is all it takes.

Its cheap insurance against blistering and lifting.

#10 9 months ago

Oh man, there’s a roll on primer! Dang thats good to know

#11 9 months ago
Quoted from Occelot:

Oh man, there’s a roll on primer! Dang thats good to know

Kilz original oil based primer.
Way cheaper than spray on primer.

Spraying primer doesnt matter as you have to sand it out each time anyways.

Dry sand the primer! Dont wet sand it. It will raise the wood.

#12 9 months ago

Uh. Is this the wrong wood filler? It’s very gritty. I’m trying to fill in all the microscopic scratches and things.. I was supposed to use bondo.. wasn’t I...
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#13 9 months ago
Quoted from Occelot:

Uh. Is this the wrong wood filler? It’s very gritty. I’m trying to fill in all the microscopic scratches and things.. I was supposed to use bondo.. wasn’t I...
[quoted image][quoted image]

The wood filler is OK. But IMO wood filler is better for small jobs.

Bondo works well. But the trick is how you spread around and knowing when to work it.

With Bondo it helps to have the cheese grater to knock down the big chunks.

#14 9 months ago

These scratches are too small for the grains to fit in. That’s the issue

#15 9 months ago

I would highly suggest taking a time out, and going through a few cabinet restoration topics here on Pinside... it's gonna save you time and money... here's my favorite... lots of really good info on products, techniques, safety tips, etc...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide/page/12#post-5335452

#16 9 months ago

So... bondo glazing spot putty?

#17 9 months ago
Quoted from Occelot:

Uh. Is this the wrong wood filler? It’s very gritty. I’m trying to fill in all the microscopic scratches and things.. I was supposed to use bondo.. wasn’t I...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Half-time dries fast and feathers out perfectly.

So, plain bondo. Its cheap.

And then half-time, its a good glazing putty. Sands perfectly.

Then primer. Then paint etc.

Its a 3 way process

#18 9 months ago

Yup, my vote is Bondo. But spread it THIN, let it set then light sand. If needed, apply a second thin coat, sand, then prime.

#19 9 months ago
Quoted from Occelot:

These scratches are too small for the grains to fit in. That’s the issue

If the scratches are that small then you probably should be using a polyester filler. Finer and smoother then bondo. Half-time works well. Regardless of which one you choose it should be 2 component.

#20 9 months ago

Haha oh man, then I just wasted two days and a couple cans of primer. I was running into an issue with the adhesive from old decals, so I was forced to hand sand smoothish. Figured the primer would have smoothed everything out perfectly. Apparently I was wrong

Thanks again

#21 9 months ago

You can spend a fortune doing it wrong and then doing it wrong again several times.

Or you can do it right the first time.

Follow vids guide to start.

#22 9 months ago

My first decal replacement I painted cabinet and installed using wet method,won't do that again .The games I've done since I do with bare wood cabinet .There is a adhesive remover I think it's 3m brand its helps if you have stubborn glue to remove

#23 9 months ago
Quoted from Occelot:

Haha oh man, then I just wasted two days and a couple cans of primer.

Not wasted, really. Lesson learned! I concur with most of the comments here, regarding bondo, glazing putty, etc. and especially Dono's comment regarding the wealth of knowledge on pinside, especially Vid's guide.

#24 9 months ago

Agreed. SOOO. I applied some bondo to one side of the cabinet yesterday, sanded the crap out of it, got it nice and smooth and then applied a clear coat. Now it's nice and smooth and has a nice surface for the decal to adhere to.

Lesson learned: after removing old decal, remove adhesive and sand to bare wood... MUCH EASIER TO WORK WITH!

#25 9 months ago
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#26 9 months ago
Quoted from Occelot:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good.

People roll on primer instead of clear finshes to stabilize the colors and make the base color uniform.

Some decals are transluscent and you can see color variations thru the decals.

You should be ok with black decals though.

Paint the edges black about 3" in as well as holes for start button etc.

Trim decals 1/8" in from all edges including corners after they are installed.

Harbor freight has a long straight edge cheap, as well as a shorter one.

I use single edge razor blades from harbor freight.

One per cut. They are cheap.

#27 9 months ago

Was thinking about shooting it down with black spray paint over the clear coat. Advisable?

#28 9 months ago
Quoted from Occelot:

Was thinking about shooting it down with black spray paint over the clear coat. Advisable?

You really only need to do tbe egdes.

This avoides higher cost and potential runs in tbe paint.

If you are stabilizing the color.
Kilz original oil based roll on primer is cheaper and easier ir use.

Primer helps you to see surface imperfections as its a uniform color.

People also apply a speckled guide coat black primer after sanding the primer to check for flatness while block sanding it out.

Then final Sand, Then paint the egdes.

Still with black decals i dont think you need a uniform color.

#29 9 months ago

k, thanks!

#30 9 months ago

By the way, there’s been worse places to do this

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#31 9 months ago

looking great !

any alcohol spills add character and prime it for the future,,,

#32 9 months ago

Haha funny, I didn’t realize the flask was there when I took the picture!

#33 9 months ago
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#34 9 months ago
Quoted from Occelot:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks real good!

Check for bumps in the paint and cab before you put the decals.

Sand as needed.

Use a felt squeegee and use the wet method of application.

amazon.com link »

Use this stuff for final wipedown and application:

amazon.com link »

Application fluid leaves no residue unlike dish soap, and promotes decal adhesion. It works with the glue to make it stick better after it dries.

It also allows a 30 min work time in case of mistakes.

I have had to completely pull off a decal 30 mins after it was squeegee'd down. Liberal amount of spray and caution saved me a lot of grief.

Have an exacto knife and plenty of new blades ready as well as single edge razor blades.

Dont use a utility knife it cuts too deep.

#35 9 months ago

Use these to cover the cut edges that will be white

They are a perfect match.

amazon.com link »

#36 9 months ago

I’m not an expert but I’ve done a few restorations. The more even that the sides etc are the easier the cab decals will go on. I put 3-4 coats of black on my police force and the decals came out pretty sweet

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#37 9 months ago
Quoted from whitey:

I’m not an expert but I’ve done a few restorations. The more even that the sides etc are the easier the cab decals will go on. I put 3-4 coats of black on my police force and the decals came out pretty sweet[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work!

#38 9 months ago

Good job on that police force.

Man you know what I forgot to do??!! Fill in that too let bolt hole. This cab has 3 holes for each leg. If I don’t fill that top hole in, you’ll see it when I install the legs on top of the metal cabinet protectors... don’t you think?

#39 9 months ago
Quoted from Occelot:

Good job on that police force.
Man you know what I forgot to do??!! Fill in that too let bolt hole. This cab has 3 holes for each leg. If I don’t fill that top hole in, you’ll see it when I install the legs on top of the metal cabinet protectors... don’t you think?

Don’t think so. TZ used a three hole cabinet and the leg covers the last hole.

#40 9 months ago

Welp, here she is... thanks for all the help guys

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#41 9 months ago

Hot digity dog, nice job!

#42 9 months ago

Looks like a great job!

#43 9 months ago
Quoted from Occelot:

Welp, here she is... thanks for all the help guys [quoted image]

looks gorgeous, well done!

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