(Topic ID: 259099)

Cabinet decals videos?

By fixintoplay

4 years ago


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    #1 4 years ago

    I just got a Williams Jokerz and would like to try a cabinet redo. I see where Classic Arcades has decals but I can find no instructions on how to install them or find information on whether they’re wet or dry. I’ve never done a cab repaint or decal (only touch-up and minor repairs) I’m really in the dark on where to begin. I’ve spent a lot of time reading on pinside but I could sure use advice or guidance. Is classic arcades a reliable source? I can’t seem to reach anybody there. Thanks for any help or direction!

    #2 4 years ago

    Go to Pinball Pimps website see if he has the stencil.

    He also has how to videos

    #3 4 years ago
    Quoted from timab2000:

    Go to Pinball Pimps website see if he has the stencil.
    He also has how to videos

    yeah. I agree.

    I just did a full cab restoration with new decals and it's pretty labor intensive. LOTTA work.

    I'd think stencils would be less involved.

    #4 4 years ago
    Quoted from Blackbeard:

    yeah. I agree.
    I just did a full cab restoration with new decals and it's pretty labor intensive. LOTTA work.
    I'd think stencils would be less involved.

    Just the opposite, stencils require more work overall if done correctly. Both processes are very time consuming to accomplish. Everyone should attempt it once to appreciate what restorers go through.

    #5 4 years ago
    Quoted from perryd:

    Everyone should attempt it once to appreciate what restorers go through

    Totally agree.

    I will admit I price policed pins without taking into exception the work that goes into restoration of a cab. HOURS upon hours are necessary to do it.

    #6 4 years ago

    I didn’t know I had a choice between stencils and decals. I only found decals available for this pin.

    #7 4 years ago

    One thing I would definitely recommend is installing them wet. I'm glad I did.

    It sounds messy, or odd, but it's easy and very forgiving if a decal is laid down wrong. You can actually lift it back up and reposition. Do wet.

    #8 4 years ago
    Quoted from Blackbeard:

    One thing I would definitely recommend is installing them wet. I'm glad I did.
    It sounds messy, or odd, but it's easy and very forgiving if a decal is laid down wrong. You can actually lift it back up and reposition. Do wet.

    So where did you learn how to prep and apply? Did the supplier provide instructions or a link to a video?

    #9 4 years ago
    Quoted from fixintoplay:

    So where did you learn how to prep and apply? Did the supplier provide instructions or a link to a video?

    Massive amounts of researching on here and online. There is a great video on google/youtube from "tattyadams" and his indy restoration. I learned a ton there.

    I also started a few threads on here while I was restoring my bad cats so I could ask questions along the way. My starting thread is here:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/applying-front-of-cabinet-decal

    You can learn just about ANYTHING on here regarding how-to's. Just ask/start a thread and ask along the way.

    I just put my fourth and final coat of paint on the backbox. Next I just need to install the decals to that, and it's done. The cab came out terrific.

    It entails a ton of sanding, using bondo, and some cab prep. All things I learned along the way. Never messed with bondo before, but it was simple.

    You'll need a circular palm sander, bondo and perhaps a spray gun ( I got from harbor freight for $110). Oh, and never used a spray gun before. Or knew how to thin paint. But you learn. You just jump in.

    Check out my posts. You'll see my threads. Just know its a lot of work, but well worth it. Oh and pics of taking things apart.

    #10 4 years ago
    Quoted from fixintoplay:

    So where did you learn how to prep and apply? Did the supplier provide instructions or a link to a video?

    Trial and error. Some YouTube’s to getcha excited...

    Always make sure the wood is sanded smooth. Decals will show imperfections.

    And the Rapid Tac spray I use for wet method...

    #11 4 years ago

    Good post underlord. The one video of the guy using the light to align the edge is something I did too.. Really useful.

    OP, the top video is that Tattyadams one I mentioned. Good stuff.

    #12 4 years ago

    Here is a vid i did quite a few years ago. Personally i do them dry now, hopefully that gives you some help as well.

    #13 4 years ago

    These are great responses. Thanks! I actually saw the IJ vid before and realized how much work was involved with decals. I can do this. But, every time I read an answer, it raises new questions. The biggest one is: do I really want (or need) to go this route? Is it worth it? Will it impact the overall value (pos or neg)? Of course, this is always a matter of personal opinion. (Pin is wrapped in storage so I can't post pics yet.) Please feel free to weigh in: I thrive on opinions! Note that this cab graphic is nearly impossible to retouch effectively without making it look worse -- way too much unmatchable solid blue area and way too much fine detail overlaying the blue. Decals are the only option.

    #14 4 years ago
    Quoted from fixintoplay:

    These are great responses. Thanks! I actually saw the IJ vid before and realized how much work was involved with decals. I can do this. But, every time I read an answer, it raises new questions. The biggest one is: do I really want (or need) to go this route? Is it worth it? Will it impact the overall value (pos or neg)? Of course, this is always a matter of personal opinion. (Pin is wrapped in storage so I can't post pics yet.) Please feel free to weigh in: I thrive on opinions! Note that this cab graphic is nearly impossible to retouch effectively without making it look worse -- way too much unmatchable solid blue area and way too much fine detail overlaying the blue. Decals are the only option.

    You should unwrap it and post pics. Corner dings and surface scratches are pretty decent to fix with bondo. Structural issues are different.
    \

    #15 4 years ago

    Found one pic of the back box. Both cosmetic and structural issues. I've done structural repair (followed by touchup) on EMs that turned out very nice.

    IMG_8395 (resized).JPGIMG_8395 (resized).JPG
    #16 4 years ago
    Quoted from robm:

    Here is a vid i did quite a few years ago. Personally i do them dry now, hopefully that gives you some help as well.

    Just curious, Robm. Why do you prefer dry now over wet?

    #17 4 years ago
    Quoted from fixintoplay:

    Just curious, Robm. Why do you prefer dry now over wet?

    I did one wet application many years ago and it went totally fine. I have done all of mine dry since then. It is a matter of personal preference, but my preference is dry for sure. It seems to go a lot faster, but you basically get one shot at it.

    #18 4 years ago

    Since I've never done cabinet decals before, I have to ask: can all cabinet decals out there be used for both wet and dry applications?

    #19 4 years ago

    Yes they can. It’s fine both ways. Personal preference is all.

    #20 4 years ago

    Great, thanks!
    Now the big question going back to my OP: I would appreciate advice or opinions re who to buy the decals from. There are only 3 suppliers: Classic Arcades, Planetary Pinball, or Ministry of Pinball. I've seen mixed reviews. I've tried contacting Classic Arcades with no success. If you've had experience with any of these-- good or bad-- please feel free to chime in.

    #21 4 years ago

    Are use classic arcades on my bed cats restoration. Decals were Nice

    #22 4 years ago
    Quoted from fixintoplay:

    Great, thanks!
    Now the big question going back to my OP: I would appreciate advice or opinions re who to buy the decals from. There are only 3 suppliers: Classic Arcades, Planetary Pinball, or Ministry of Pinball. I've seen mixed reviews. I've tried contacting Classic Arcades with no success. If you've had experience with any of these-- good or bad-- please feel free to chime in.

    Send a message to Pete at retrorefurbs, his decals are very nice.

    #23 4 years ago

    I’ve used Retrorefurbs. Quality was good. Planetary Pinball, when in stock, depending on title, and Pinball Decals.eu. For custom stuff and some hard to find out of stock titles.

    Remember, at the end of the day these are just applied graphics. Not rocket science or super high restoration projects with OEM factory stuff. As long as the graphics are scratch resistant, your good.

    #24 4 years ago

    Retrorefurbs does not carry decals for Jokerz.

    #26 4 years ago
    Quoted from fixintoplay:

    Retrorefurbs does not carry decals for Jokerz.

    Did you email/PM them, or just look at their website?

    #27 4 years ago
    Quoted from fixintoplay:

    Just curious, Robm. Why do you prefer dry now over wet?

    I now have a source of decals printed on air release vinyl. They are super easy to apply as you can push air bubbles out no problem. So dry is just a lot quicker.

    For a first timer, there is no real downside to doing them wet, just make sure you have painted the cab so you aren't spraying liquid onto bare timber

    #28 4 years ago

    Thanks robm. I will be doing dry and following all the advice I've gotten thus far.
    I was in Sydney, Australia last spring (your spring). Sincerely hope you're surviving the terrible wildfires. So sad. Stay safe.

    #29 4 years ago

    Hey Fix
    The best video concerning dry application is this thread. If you do it exactly like Jim Mc, it will come out perfect.
    Wally

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/install-decals-dry-video-this-is-how-i-do-them

    #30 4 years ago

    These are terrific. Thanks! I hadn’t seen these before. He doesn’t cover surface prep so I assume clean dry smooth unpainted is recommended for this procedure?

    #31 4 years ago
    Quoted from fixintoplay:

    These are terrific. Thanks! I hadn’t seen these before. He doesn’t cover surface prep so I assume clean dry smooth unpainted is recommended for this procedure?

    Painted surfaces are recommended.

    2 weeks later
    #32 4 years ago

    Just spoke with a pin repair guy who said that if the surface of the old decal surface is smooth enough prepped properly, you can use it as a base to apply the new decals over it. This would avoid the huge hassle of removing the old decals and adhesive. Curious if anyone had done this?

    #33 4 years ago
    Quoted from fixintoplay:

    Just spoke with a pin repair guy who said that if the surface of the old decal surface is smooth enough prepped properly, you can use it as a base to apply the new decals over it. This would avoid the huge hassle of removing the old decals and adhesive. Curious if anyone had done this?

    You can do this, and people have had success with it. The problem can be with the repro decals though. Depending on lighting and the thickness/quality of the decal, you can see the old decal underneath the new decals.

    #34 4 years ago

    thanks for the insight. Need the decals in hand before I can decide how to apply. I want the highest quality finished product, so the most difficult method may be the best option.

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