(Topic ID: 146588)

Cabinet damage


By j69

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 29 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Soop
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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    #1 3 years ago

    I picked up 2 new pins last week after a looooong drive. When I got there the TAF had some fairly hefty damage that had been hidden under one of the front legs. I was tempted to walk away but it was reasonably priced and I had spent a fair bit of cash getting there so took the plunge anyway.

    Any advice on how to fix this up?

    I had planned on regluing the front/side panel together but on closer inspection it's already been screwed and I'd end up doing more damage trying to dig them all out.

    Am I best off just filling it up with wood filler and sanding it back down?

    Thanks

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    #2 3 years ago

    Well... If it is structurally tight you could just fill with a wood filler. If it ultimately failed you would be no worse off. I use Bondo but other might recommend other products.

    #3 3 years ago

    Wood filler and black enamel paint. Wood glue anything that doesn't have a tight hold. Leave the screws in there.

    #4 3 years ago

    Thanks, I've already got some titebond 3 that I'll squeeze in and clamp shut prior to starting

    #5 3 years ago

    If its hidden by the leg you could just paint it and put the leg back on. Why go crazy unless you are restoring it.

    #6 3 years ago

    Wood glue and sawdust mixed together to form a paste, works great

    #7 3 years ago

    Take those screws and nails out.

    Pry open the seam and clean out any crap.

    Glue with your Titebond.

    Repair damage with Fiberglass Resin and some chopped fiberglass (both available at any auto or boat store).

    That damage is way too big to be repaired with Bondo Filler or Wood Filler.

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    #8 3 years ago

    good advise Vid, i would also do as you mentioned but after gluing with titebond , i would use minwax wood hardener to stiffen it up, square it out , and fill with with a same ply piece of wood. ( the bottom half anyway)

    #9 3 years ago

    It's screwed at both ends multiple times. I appreciate it's probably the right way to do it by removing them but I'd be having to gouge them out of the wood all over the place. I'm gona leave them in.

    I've bought some specialist wood filler for 'large areas of damage' so I'll give that a go. It's hidden by the leg if I botch it. I'll post some pictures when I do it

    Thanks

    #10 3 years ago
    Quoted from j69:

    It's screwed at both ends multiple times. I appreciate it's probably the right way to do it by removing them but I'd be having to gouge them out of the wood all over the place. I'm gona leave them in.
    I've bought some specialist wood filler for 'large areas of damage' so I'll give that a go. It's hidden by the leg if I botch it. I'll post some pictures when I do it
    Thanks

    It looks like you have some flipper button wear. If you plan on just making a player, sure, just patch it. If you are going to do the decals you will be better off spending the time to take it apart and do it right. You can use titebond and some pipe clamps to do a really good job without going crazy. fixing the missing wood will be something that you should not do with bondo, you will probably need to cut in a patch.

    -c

    #11 3 years ago

    It is just a player, I've got some vinyl flipper guards to cover the wear. I'm not applying new decals as they are OK for the most part

    #12 3 years ago

    Built up 2 layers of wood filler so far. Fairly quick job. 3rd layer should be enough to sand off into a right angle and then get painted. Not perfect but will look a lot better than before

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    #13 3 years ago

    Black Testors enamel paint is a very good match for black. Looking good so far.

    #14 3 years ago

    Are you using your Triumph Speed triple as a Pinball Stand?

    JJ

    #15 3 years ago

    So to summarize:

    Ask for advice.
    Get good advice.
    Ignore advice.

    #16 3 years ago

    Fiberglass for the average collector is not the best advice.

    #17 3 years ago
    Quoted from donjagra:

    Fiberglass for the average collector is not the best advice.

    Wood filler is too brittle and will crack on a missing chunk that large.

    Fiberglass is an inexpensive repair that is super fast and super durable.

    -

    Just like soldering copper pipe, once you have experience doing it, the world is your oyster.....

    #18 3 years ago

    As soon as you crank the leg bolts down the pressure is going to blow that wood filler right out.

    #19 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    once you have experience doing it, the world is your oyster

    The same can be said for open heart surgery.

    #20 3 years ago
    Quoted from donjagra:

    Fiberglass for the average collector is not the best advice.

    Well since you know what is better advice for the "Average Collector" lets hear it.

    #21 3 years ago

    Looking at that closely, the whole corner has been seperated ( hence the wood screw )

    I would have started by taking that out and slightly open the joint then lots of wood glue and clamp for a few days.

    After dry, I would have tried to build up the rest with epoxy or fiberglass making a mold to hold it in place. Then a rough sanding building up again if needed to make level.

    I would have finished off with green glazing or spot puddy to get out any imperfections. Lots of sanding and eyeball work to make perfect.

    Mask off artwork and spray with primer and flat black fading into the original.

    #23 3 years ago

    I know this is probably me being late to the party but maybe for a future issue...

    this stuff looks like a winner:

    amazon.com link »

    It's a 2 part system for restoring rotted/damaged wood with epoxy and it goes right along with what Vid was saying earlier.

    1 week later
    #24 3 years ago

    Ask 10 people and you get 10 different pieces of advice. All advice is welcome

    There are multiple screws keeping the cabinet together and it's nice and sturdy. I had no intention of digging them all out, likely causing more damage along the way, just to glue it back together again.

    It's a players condition game to play to death, I'm not after a mint restoration

    I'm happy enough with the outcome

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    #25 3 years ago

    I am a little late to chime in on this but with the stress on a corner like this the best thing is two part EPOXY then sand and paint. We did antique furniture repairs for years using epoxy when other people in the industry were using fillers, bondo, glue & sawdust, etc and over the long haul nothing worked better than epoxy.

    #26 3 years ago

    The bolt holes were relatively undamaged and that is what takes the majority of the weight

    #27 3 years ago

    Wood filler or sawdust & glue will hold up OK and isn't a bad way to go but epoxy is much stronger and somewhat easier to use because it will basically flow into place & lay flat. Typically I use some flat plastic stock I have laying around to smooth it out and if I need to build an edge I put a little grease, Vaseline, or Crisco on the side of the form I make from the plastic stock that I don't want the epoxy to stick to. Something like the bolt holes I would used plastic tube with grease to keep them clear then flow the epoxy into place on top edge with cabinet standing on end - the lay cabinet on the side to do the side of the cabinet.

    Epoxy was not my idea - it came to me from a guy that did high end antique furniture reconstruction - but once I learned how to work with it I don't use anything else for wood repairs. Nothing dries stronger & it is fairly easy to work with once you get a good method figured out.

    My main purpose of replying to this post is for others who might read this. Not to suggest you did anything wrong using filler but to give yet another method of repairing cabinet damage. I like using epoxy for edge damage because edges get a lot of abuse but under the leg (like your repair) is a lot more protected.

    #28 3 years ago
    Quoted from j69:

    The bolt holes were relatively undamaged and that is what takes the majority of the weight

    Did you put the HD leg braces on the inside?

    #29 3 years ago

    Yep, that's what that Abatron is. Once you remove the weak wood you brush on the liquid stuff and it gives the 2nd part epoxy something to hold onto.

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