(Topic ID: 147399)

Cabinet clear coat


By maffewl

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Gryphun
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

I have several touch ups I'm going to be doing on my Baywatch cabinet. As I will be using an airbrush and only touching up in spots, I was thinking the final sheen may be a bit off, so I will need to put a clear coat over the whole cabinet. I would think this would be good for further protection as well. So ultimately the question is, what clear are most using for this purpose? I'm assuming a satin/semi-gloss, but wouldn't want to use a spar urethane, or anything of that sort as it yellows over time. Thoughts?

#2 3 years ago

Watching thread for tips too. I have a BW and other pins in need of the same. Torn on this issue...I have been told multiple times,by multiple people, to leave these cabs alone. Reason, supposedly, is the value would actually be higher if left in an "original" state. I dunno....I think I am with o.p. and wouLd like to touch up and get a protective layer on them that can "stand tge test of time" and prevent further damage/deterioration.

#3 3 years ago

I have been looking into this. As far as 2-part automotive clears- you can sorta custom mix a sheen by adding the agent used to generate a flat finish. However-beware! If you buff or polish the clear "flat" finish it will go to gloss- and never return to a flat sheen. For this reason I a hit my cabinet with a gloss coat and am sanding and will decide at the last minute if I want to spray with a flattner in it for the final coat- in fact thats really the only time you would use the flattener- final coat only. Thats for DuPont products- I know of at least one other product that is available as a matte finish in a 2-part chemistry- but I trust DuPont- used it before- it holds up well long term-

#4 3 years ago

Some people wax their pinball cabinets with modern carnauba wax and use buffers.
It works if used with touchups with ENAMEL paint.
A lot simpler than using automotive clears, and does give good protection including decaled, stenciled, and screened cabinets.
Many urethanes YELLOW with age, and certain clear coats will STINK for months.

I have done this for years, and keeps cabinets looking good.

#5 3 years ago

I personally think that clear coated cabinets do not look good.

Funny thing is though, I love the way clear coated playfields look.

#6 3 years ago

Thanks for the comments everyone. I probably shouldn't have used the term "clear coat" as this is more associated with playfields and a certain glassy look. Essentially, I'm just trying to make sure the sheen of the cabinet is consistent. I think I will give airbrushing with Createx (though they are acrylic, not enamel) a shot, then lightly sand with maybe a 800 grit, and follow up with wax as mentioned. We will see how that goes. If it doesn't work, back to the starting block.

#7 3 years ago

It's not for nothin' but I've used this clear on some chime boxes I had painted white and I'm really happy with the finish. Cabinet you may want to try a semi-gloss clear I imagine.

amazon.com link »

amazon.com link »

#8 3 years ago

Just finished touching everything up. Used Createx airbrush colors, and very happy with the results. Now I'm back to debating this as waxing will be a no-go. Thinking of using this (link below). It's acrylic matte acrylic clear coating and non-yellowing. Any experiences or thoughts?

http://www.hobbylobby.com/p/Matte-Clear-Acrylic-Coating/p/5909

#9 3 years ago

If it's anywhere near the Krylon stuff you'll be well pleased. As I stated though, maybe the semi-gloss is the way to go on the cabinet.

1 month later
#10 3 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Just finished touching everything up. Used Createx airbrush colors, and very happy with the results. Now I'm back to debating this as waxing will be a no-go. Thinking of using this (link below). It's acrylic matte acrylic clear coating and non-yellowing. Any experiences or thoughts?
http://www.hobbylobby.com/p/Matte-Clear-Acrylic-Coating/p/5909

Got any pictures?

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from dgoodspeed:

Got any pictures?

Of the Baywatch? Sure, they are at Post #493 in the Baywatch Club Members Only thread found here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baywatch-clubmembers-only/page/10#post-2899507

I ended up not clearing it yet as the weather wasn't working with me and I was ready to play. I'll probably get back around to it when it warms up. I bought this from Lowe's:

http://www.valsparpaint.com/en/find-the-right-product/interior/decorative-paints/faux-clear-protector.html

I plan to spray it on and will report back how it works (note that I'm waiting till the weather cooperates). Seems to be exactly what I'm looking for.

Edit: Also, used the hobby lobby stuff on a test spot. It worked ok, but the paint would still rub off if I tried hard enough.

#12 3 years ago

I ended up using polyacrylic water based clear over my star trek mirror universe cabinet. Seems to hold up well and stupidy simple to apply with a sprayer

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I ended up using polyacrylic water based clear over my star trek mirror universe cabinet. Seems to hold up well and stupidy simple to apply with a sprayer

From the things I looked at, Polycrylic (though advertised not to) still had the potential to yellow over time. From what I saw of the Valspar stuff, it is like a watered down Elmers glue. We'll see, but thanks for the comments and I'm sure we can't be the only ones interested in this.

#14 3 years ago

It may yellow; but for me - with a black cabinet - it likely won't be an issue.
That and the holographic flake.

#15 3 years ago

I've done a few cabinets with 2PAC over decals and they've come out nice.
Here's the current one I'm working on, nearing the final restore stages.
The reflection in the cabinet is my dog taking a nap on a lazy boy, lol.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from BR80:

I've done a few cabinets with 2PAC over decals and they've come out nice.
Here's the current one I'm working on, nearing the final restore stages.
The reflection in the cabinet is my dog taking a nap on a lazy boy, lol.
Diner_(resized).jpg

Wow, talk about a mirror shine. I've heard of people using 2Pac, can you link to what you are using because all I can think of is the rapper.

I ask because if it is the hardcore automotive stuff, I don't have the equipment or knowhow to use that.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from FrostyMug:

I have been told multiple times,by multiple people, to leave these cabs alone.

Quoted from FrostyMug:

Reason, supposedly, is the value would actually be higher if left in an "original" state.

There's some truth to this. Lets say you have a STTNG like mine where the cabinet art is damn near perfect except for :

1. some idiot that scratched that frigging Nazi symbol we all know and love into Picard's head on one side (not me)
2. some buffoon that scratched part of one side of the cabinet while moving the game into his garage hastily at 4AM when he could have simply waited until the next day to do that with a clearer mind having just driven 8 solid hours (we won't mention who that was ).

Now, the rest of the game's aesthetics are great. The playfield has some minor chipping near scoops, but nothing to get all disturbed about. Boards all match. Two plastics have some minor issues. There is a small wear spot on the translite that's not even visible.

I suppose I could get reproductions of the cabinet art, translite, and playfield and make it "perfect". That'd be stupid though. It is in rather great condition as it is! Long term, I would hurt the value of the machine if I pissed around with it from a 'serious collector' standpoint.

To contrast this, I have a Flash Gordon cabinet that is faded badly. I'll repaint/restore that. It simply looks bad, and the value of the cabinet 50 years from now wouldn't be much higher faded vs. restored.

Overall, when it comes to cabinets, I kind of consider the overall rarity of the game and the general condition of the cabinet. If it looks terrible and the game is not all that rare, it'll get restored. If I have a rare game and the cabinet looks kind of "bad", I'll leave it be (Gottlieb wedgeheads are a great example of this ... they yellow. You can scrub a lot of that yellowing away, but it won't all go away ... some of those games are highly collectible and paint job, no matter how nice, can harm the value).

Finally, if a cabinet is getting restored, I may as well consider things like clearcoats and the like since I may as well make it look awesome . On an older 80s Bally classic, I wouldn't want that ultra high shine, but on something like that Diner in the previous post, I'd *want* that look (WOW is that nice!!!! if my cabinet was considerably subpar I'd go for that look in a heartbeat!
).

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from BR80:

I've done a few cabinets with 2PAC over decals and they've come out nice.
Here's the current one I'm working on, nearing the final restore stages.
The reflection in the cabinet is my dog taking a nap on a lazy boy, lol.
Diner_(resized).jpg

You might want to check on your dog......

#19 3 years ago

Thanks guys - Yes, the Diner cab was a beater and a good candidate for a restore.
Funny about thinking of the rapper Tupac, 2PAC = Two Part Automotive Clear
It's not that expensive a set-up if you already have a solid air compressor.
Some here like the DuPont clear...no specific reason, but I've been using PPG (Shopline):
JC830 Clear / JH8380 Med Hardener / JR555 Reducer / JT571 Solvent (for cleaning afterward)
Shopline_(resized).jpg

Quoted from Gov:

You might want to check on your dog......

Just double checked...dog still has a pulse and a smile
RoxyDog_(resized).jpg

#20 3 years ago

Wouldn't you need a paint booth, body gear, and all kinds of other materials?

#21 3 years ago

That diner is awesome. Id love to see pics when its complete.

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Wouldn't you need a paint booth, body gear, and all kinds of other materials?

Yea, there's more to it than just the compressor...that's just the heart of the system and usually the most expensive part. A Do-It-Yourself paint booth isn't bad if you have the space and a good face respirator (3M #07193) is cheap. Some accessories are needed, like a filter dryer and such...but again, not very expensive.

Quoted from nikpinball:

That diner is awesome. Id love to see pics when its complete.

I'll try and put up a restore thread when I'm done...just haven't been that good about taking pics along the way.

#23 3 years ago

I spray 2part auto all the time ... outside.
The only "issue" is dust or bugs which if you are careful aren't a real problem.
I do spray with a disposable face respirator and some safety goggles. You don't want that sh1t in your lungs.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

You don't want that sh1t in your lungs.

Then I would be using more than a disposable respirator....

I agree though, it is bad stuff.

#25 3 years ago

I've used minwax - water base gloss.
It's actually more of a simi gloss when applied. If you want it more shiny, you can take a buffer to it.
Works great on early solid state games with a foam brush.
I have not tried this over decals, as I usually just apply new decals.

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#26 3 years ago

Do not sand your airbrush work. The paint is atomized as it passes through the gun, making it very thin. I've been using Createx since it came out & airbrushing for 40 yrs. Best paint on the planet.
That Diner is gorgeous! Lucky dog.

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballocks:

Do not sand your airbrush work. The paint is atomized as it passes through the gun, making it very thin. I've been using Createx since it came out & airbrushing for 40 yrs. Best paint on the planet.
That Diner is gorgeous! Lucky dog.

What would you use to wipe the oils off of a cabinet painted with Createx? Since I've held off on the clear coat and played the machine, I'd like to clean these off before I spray. However, it seems anything I've tried on test spots takes the Createx off as well. Since you've used it for so long, Hoping you may have more insight.

#28 3 years ago

This is very sweet looking....been looking at doing this on some of my higher end restores. Any paticular clear to prevent issues with the decals? (bleeding and such)

Quoted from BR80:

I've done a few cabinets with 2PAC over decals and they've come out nice.
Here's the current one I'm working on, nearing the final restore stages.
The reflection in the cabinet is my dog taking a nap on a lazy boy, lol.
Diner_(resized).jpg

#29 3 years ago

I am assuming you have heat set the Createx. Have you tried Windex sprayed on a paper towel?

#30 3 years ago
Quoted from BR80:

I've done a few cabinets with 2PAC over decals and they've come out nice.
Here's the current one I'm working on, nearing the final restore stages.
The reflection in the cabinet is my dog taking a nap on a lazy boy, lol.

That DINER cab is beautiful!!!

#31 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballocks:

I am assuming you have heat set the Createx. Have you tried Windex sprayed on a paper towel?

Correct. I let it sit for several days and then heat set it and let it sit for several more before bringing it in to play. Haven't tried Windex as I thought that would definitely take it off. Will it not due to ammonia or?

#32 3 years ago

Heat set it as soon as you are done. Createx through an airbrush dries on contact, no need to wait.
Yes, ammonia free Windex sprayed on the paper towel & wipe gently. Don't want to ruin those fine feathered edges.

#33 3 years ago

Well how did it go?

2 months later
#34 3 years ago
Quoted from brenna98:

I've used minwax - water base gloss.
It's actually more of a simi gloss when applied. If you want it more shiny, you can take a buffer to it.
Works great on early solid state games with a foam brush.
I have not tried this over decals, as I usually just apply new decals.

Brenna. Have any close-up pictures of the flash cabinet - am trying to decide if I should go your route (foam roller) or SprayMax.

Thanks.

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