Double dip all you want. Pinside is so huge that I miss threads all of the time. You started this posting 8 days ago and I just stumbled into it this morning.

I cant imagine not having some sort of table saw, even the small folding ones as seen above...not just for pin cabs but for all types of small projects...
I use a rockwell 10" unisaw, left over from when my company used to build wood 1-piece garage doors...its large and powerful enough to rip large stock but versitile enough for some smaller work...
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I had the Jet cabinet saw, it had a riving knife... It was nice but for cutting sheets, I think a track saw would be better but I cannot say that with experience.

This is the little one I got, it did a great job considering the fence and miter gauge have some play but with caution they did ok.
Already glad I purchased it. Proceeded to cut pieces for a sub enclosure for my kid, I'd say its already paid for itself.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-10-in-15-Amp-Table-Saw-RTS10NS/301289960

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current cab, coming along.

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Thanks, if all continues to go to schedule, I should be putting on the decals this weekend!
HOWEVER I have a Digi-key order that should delivery today so my cab may take a back seat to board updates.
If I am diligent, I can paint the cab again THEN do some soldering. Will see.

... honey, I'm home! I just looked at took NO pics of how nice and shiny the end result is (I applied clear after laying the decals). I'll get some images up over the next couple days.

Onto the PF resto!

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Naw, I'll do one after it is complete however, that way no one knows how long it really took!

Cleared generic decals, and the inspector.

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About to start one for my project Alien Star Resurrection. I've been collecting all the parts to build an Alien Star, got mostly populated decent playfield from tnt that I'll strip down touch-up and clear during this project, and the rest of parts from all over, and a Flippp all-in-one board to run it, now I need a cabinet to put them in. taking a road trip this weekend to Portland where they have an Alien Star on location to measure everything up and take lots of photos, and of course play the heck out of it and the other machines at the Wedgehead.

Will definitely use some of the info from this thread, already have the bolt hole drill guide from when I built my virtual cab, and will add metal sleeves to it. Have the lock mitre router bit for doing the corners but need to mount my router into my extended table saw leaf to have a big enough table to do them nicely. So projects before the project.

Sadly I've yet to finish Motordome. I'm very close, chasing away the last few gremlins. Won't be building a cab in the immediate future but will still check in here from time to time.

https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ unfortunately they only have a DE cabinet scan.
My local hackerspace has a large CNC (ShopBot) it'd be great to "print" a perfect flat pack WPC cab!

So, I'm looking at building a WPC style cabinet and a couple of backboxes. I don't have a table saw(welcome to the reality of rentals in NorCal), but I do have a router, a little router table(both of those with 1/4" collets) and various other tools. My first thought was a locking miter bit, but all of the 1/4" ones look pretty flimsy. Anyone have any good bit recommendations?

Barring that, is there a simpler joint that would work with the tools I have?

EDIT: This cut with a spline looks like something I could manage easily enough:

Hello!

I am looking for CNC plans for WPC (Funhouse), Stern Classic (F2K), System 11 (F14 and BK2K).

Does anyone know someone who is either willing to share such Plans or is willing to sell them?

Thank you in advance!

I don't get this miter spline with all of the extra work. Why can't you just make a rabbet cut on one board and place the other board inside the rabbet? As far as holding power, I don't see any extra holding power with that miter spline. I don't see any interlocking corner cuts.

However, I'm fairly new to this wood working and know very little.

You need to move back to Kansas and get a table saw

When Kansas gets an ocean, I'll revisit the issue I'm done with sailing on Cheney and diving in Wilson.

I ended up just buying a Whitewater cab from a friend. When I built the backbox for my Stranger Things retheme, I just braced the corners on the inside. Is it as pretty? Nope, but when it's all buttoned up, who will see it anyway? The next head, which will be for Scared Stiff, is going to use the same joints that the file on pinball makers shows: https://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Wpc-backbox-1.png

I can't use your link. When I try I am told my computer time is not correct. It asks if I want time corrected. I say yes. It changes my time zone to Alaska and still won't let me have a look.

Doing a dredd from scratch.. just drilled my leg holes.. wish I saw cosmo’s post before I put it together... that’s how ya do it.

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Nice work !

Yeh, it looks like pinballmakers allowed their ssh certificate to expire.

Are you going to add a metal plate behind the boards for a ground?

Too hard to find the plate. Grounding like so. I guess there’s the fire protection, but this will be huo. It won’t be left on unsupervised.

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I didn’t want to cut the door before glueing, haven’t got to it yet.

Aluminum flashing used in the roofing trade will work as a good ground plate.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Amerimax-6-in-x-50-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/3032677

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Amerimax-20-in-x-50-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/3010400

I sooo need a new cab for my Funhouse.

Yeah, I picked up some smaller sheets that I butt together and staple down.

Me too - how do we find plans to begin with?

I have the cad files for new mounting plates. Only thing holding me back is the 1400 dollar cost for a run

Finished my dredd cab! Well, there’s always something to tinker on. Totally overlooked there’s a half inch groove cut in the backbox for the translite to slide up and in.. ran the router on what I could and chiseled the two edges. Decals were a real pain. I thought i lost it, Couldn’t get the thing to lay flat. A hair drier saved my bacon.

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With no prior woodworking experience I decided to have a go at building a new cabinet for my Getaway. The original cabinet has all the typical container/import pin issues (moisture damage, poorly re-glued corners, extra screws to bandaid it together, etc). Not to mention the hacked coindoor opening and the front-right corner brace had been replaced by a home-made bracket that looks like it was made from the top section of a pinball leg with nuts welded onto it!

Wanting to keep the design as true to the original as possible, I had to try lock mitre corners. I was dreading this as so many people (including those with significant woodwork experience) seem to report difficulty setting these up. By taking my time with the set up and practicing on some scraps before running the panels through, I ended up with a result I'm very pleased with. I got a little bit of veneer tearing on the inside of the back panel but that will be easy to fill when prepping for paint. I did make one silly mistake... after I had done the front, back, and left side, I accidentally run the right panel through the router with the wrong side facing down. As a result, I ended up with two left-side panels and another trip to the timber shop.

Below is a pic of my progress so far, alongside the original, and a closeup of one of the lock mitres. I've just test fit the pieces to make sure it all fits, as there's still a number of things left to do (eg, routing for floor panel, routing for glass trim, vents on the rear panel, cut corner braces, etc).

Keen eyed observers will notice the channel routed out on the top panel. I replicated that from the original... before realising that it doesn't appear to do anything. I checked it against my White Water and confirmed that it doesn't have that feature and the back box completely covers that area when installed anyway. Can anyone explain why it's there on the original?

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As a follow up to my previous post, for anyone else who hasn't done any real woodworking before and wants to have a go at this, be prepared to spend a LOT of time on it, and also a lot of money if you don't already have access to a decent array of tools.

In terms of power tools useful to this project, the only ones I had prior to starting this project were cordless drills, a circular saw, a mitre saw, small router, etc. Eg, the sort of tools most people have for the odd job around the home. Now however, I have a track saw, a 10" cabinet saw, a large dust extractor, a homemade router table extension on the table saw, and a bench drill press. I'm glad I made the investment in these as there's so many more projects I can do beyond pinball now that I simply couldn't consider previously.

Nice work and congrats on the tool purchases.

The tools have a way of multiplying. Sort of like the pins themselves.

I would like to see a pic of the router bit you cut your corners with, please.

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It is a lock mitre bit... something like this...

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Can be a real bear to setup... they make setup blocks for them and I'd recommend using one, a mechanical router lift would really make the setup easier... one day I'll have one

Thank you.

I agree, I ran some scraps through afterwards (horizontal and vertical) before changing my router setup so I can quickly get back to the same settings next time. The router I put in my table (Triton TRA001) has a micro depth adjust which definitely helps getting the height right. Having a micro adjust for the fence also helps significantly as you don't have to keep tapping it backwards and forwards trying to land it in just the right spot.

A question for the lock miter experts. How do you support the pieces that are vertical along the fence? Seems like the cabinet sides are cut that way? Thanks just having to do the back of a classic Bally but considering a whole cabinet and being done. Also what wood did you use?

For a new cabinet I cut the side panels horizontally and the front/rear panels vertically, using some tight featherboards on either side of the cutter, and a focus on applying even pressure while feeding them through. Cutting the side panels vertically would be extremely difficult due to their size and weight.

I used 3/4" (actually more like 17.5mm) AA Marine Plywood as where I'm located pretty much any other option was garbage (warped, covered in knots, etc). The US seems to have a far better selection (pre-COVID anyway!).

This is an excellent suggestion for the whole cab or backbox. Thanks

After setting up and testing my lock miter I can confirm that for classic Bally cabs the lock miter that works for WPC will not work for replacing one panel. The Bally grooves are much larger and usually rot off needing the rabbet with 45 miter you see people using. After chiseling out the pressboard it fits really well but appears today’s 3/4” plywood is slightly thin for my cab