(Topic ID: 233238)

Cabinet Builders


By mrm_4

16 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 54 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by Atari_Daze
  • Topic is favorited by 13 Pinsiders

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    There are 54 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 16 days ago

    Im rebuilding a flipperless cabinet and I cant seem to find a thread dedicated to building cabinets from scratch. This is where Im at with things.
    Cut the 4 sides and kept the same rabbet joint used in the 40s. Routed all grooves for the bottom hardboard and for the glass.
    I just glued the corners.

    Please feel free to post tips or suggestions.

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    #2 16 days ago

    The orginal canbint corners have wedges gluded in and the metal brackets on the outside. I need to figure out a way to cut these wedges for the new one im building so i can glue them in then drill out the holes.
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    #3 16 days ago

    Anyone know of any drafts, blue prints, youtube videos, etc on cabinets?

    #4 15 days ago

    Found a way to cut the wedges. Ended up clamping the board in a work table just barely enough to hold it in place then clamped another board on top to make the circular skillsaw square. I found if clamped too tight the wood pinches the blade too much as i cut. Four wedges turned out great ready to be glued in the corners.

    I hope this helps someone in the future. Still waiting to hear anyone elses tips or see some cabinets built from scratch.

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    #5 13 days ago

    Great topic idea!
    I'm working on a cab for a 6803 Motordome. It wasn't beat to hell like some of the 6803 cabs but why not build a new one?
    Fortunately for me I have a cousin about an hour away with a stellar wood shop, he did most of the heavy lifting as far as cutting the large pieces then I went out and picked up a nice little hobby table saw the other day and that has helped tremendously.
    I can now cut wedges and have used it to build a prototype leg hole jig which I took inspiration from here:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/clearly-insane-part-ii-bingo/page/5#post-4483320

    Jig needs a little more work, I drilled these holes free hand rather than with a drill press. I hope to make a permanent jig today.
    Anywho, just some progress pictures. One thing to state, FORSTNER bits are your friend!! Scored a nice set from Lowes, 14 piece set, and the guy matched the HF cost 30ish USD!

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    #6 13 days ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    Great topic idea!
    I'm working on a cab for a 6803 Motordome. It wasn't beat to hell like some of the 6803 cabs but why not build a new one?
    Fortunately for me I have a cousin about an hour away with a stellar wood shop, he did most of the heavy lifting as far as cutting the large pieces then I went out and picked up a nice little hobby table saw the other day and that has helped tremendously.
    I can now cut wedges and have used it to build a prototype leg hole jig which I took inspiration from here:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/clearly-insane-part-ii-bingo/page/5#post-4483320
    Jig needs a little more work, I drilled these holes free hand rather than with a drill press. I hope to make a permanent jig today.
    Anywho, just some progress pictures. One thing to state, FORSTNER bits are your friend!! Scored a nice set from Lowes, 14 piece set, and the guy matched the HF cost 30ish USD! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Thanks for sharing this George, this cab is looking good!

    #7 12 days ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    Great topic idea!
    I'm working on a cab for a 6803 Motordome. It wasn't beat to hell like some of the 6803 cabs but why not build a new one?
    Fortunately for me I have a cousin about an hour away with a stellar wood shop, he did most of the heavy lifting as far as cutting the large pieces then I went out and picked up a nice little hobby table saw the other day and that has helped tremendously.
    I can now cut wedges and have used it to build a prototype leg hole jig which I took inspiration from here:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/clearly-insane-part-ii-bingo/page/5#post-4483320
    Jig needs a little more work, I drilled these holes free hand rather than with a drill press. I hope to make a permanent jig today.
    Anywho, just some progress pictures. One thing to state, FORSTNER bits are your friend!! Scored a nice set from Lowes, 14 piece set, and the guy matched the HF cost 30ish USD! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    That’s fantastic work! But what about decals?

    #8 12 days ago
    Quoted from underlord:

    But what about decals?

    Ah, fear not... I got mine from Retro Refurbs. I had actually scanned the originals and was re-creating them in Photoshop and was preparing to find a printer when I heard back that R R offered them.

    #9 12 days ago

    A couple of tips I have come up with after doing over a dozen cabs...first I have tried to make similar jigs to drill corners holes for leg bolts after assembly and found out its easier to do before assembly with a half round router bit. Mark and route each side seperatly before assembly for a perfect hole...

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    You should also use a corner joint for strength, a locking miter joint is the strongest option but takes some practice and requires a large router table...

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    #10 12 days ago

    A standard slot bit (with template) will take care of the glass and lock channel for the top of the head...

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    I built this little jig to hold the corner braces so I can drill leg holes...

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    Forschner bits are perfect for start button and flipper buttom holes...

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    #11 12 days ago

    Sorcerer cab...
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    Virtual cabs...

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    WPCs...

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    #12 12 days ago

    Cosmo you still making cabs?

    #13 12 days ago
    Quoted from underlord:

    Cosmo you still making cabs?

    Yes but my delusions of retiring on a pile of pinball cab cash has been replaced with the ability to build one or two a month as time allows...

    #14 12 days ago
    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    Yes but my delusions of retiring on a pile of pinball cab cash has been replaced with the ability to build one or two a month as time allows...

    If you get ready for orders lmk. My IJ cab is, well, showing her age.

    #15 12 days ago

    Cosmo,

    About the locking miter joint... What about a Festool Domino joint?

    #16 11 days ago
    Quoted from underlord:

    Cosmo you still making cabs?

    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    Yes but my delusions of retiring on a pile of pinball cab cash has been replaced with the ability to build one or two a month as time allows...

    How much do you charge for a cab?

    #17 11 days ago

    so glad you chimed in cosmokramer your cabs are always great!

    #18 11 days ago

    It cracks me up, this is the only hobby ive had where i get nervous and excited about drilling 8 measly holes

    So i used a 3D printed guide that jim5six created. Worked really well just need to hold that sucker tight.

    To be honest I think on the next project im going to route the holes out first before gluing the sides together like cosmokramer showed earlier.

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    #19 11 days ago

    mrm_4 Do you have a link to the 3D guide that jim5six made?

    -2
    #20 11 days ago
    Quoted from Daditude:

    How much do you charge for a cab?

    They won't answer this or give some obscure answer. Why? Because it's too much and they're low key embarrassed.

    #21 11 days ago

    Sleeve insert worked out? I'm debating adding sleeves to my wooden one.

    #22 11 days ago
    Quoted from DexterH:

    Because it's too much and they're low key embarrassed

    I dont think that is the case, it's not much less than the VP cabs, but it's the shipping that is the issue.
    cosmokramer did extensive investigation and if I recall shipping alone was almost as much as shipping an entire pin.
    Unless one is buying them local or by a truckload, its almost not feasible to be a supplier.
    I think that is why Matt started this thread so those of us willing to endeavor will have the tips and tricks of the experts.

    #23 11 days ago
    Quoted from eh97ac:

    mrm_4 Do you have a link to the 3D guide that jim5six made?

    I reached out to him about it. Stay tuned.

    #24 11 days ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    Sleeve insert worked out? I'm debating adding sleeves to my wooden one.

    Yeah the sleeve was perfect. Couldnt find an exact fit so wrapped it in tape until the outside diameter was snug. Went with 1/2”

    #25 11 days ago
    Quoted from DexterH:

    They won't answer this or give some obscure answer. Why? Because it's too much and they're low key embarrassed.

    My prices are listed in the marketplace, no secrets here.....however, my turn around time is slow

    #26 11 days ago
    Quoted from mrm_4:

    It cracks me up, this is the only hobby ive had where i get nervous and excited about drilling 8 measly holes
    So i used a 3D printed guide that jim5six created. Worked really well just need to hold that sucker tight.
    To be honest I think on the next project im going to route the holes out first before gluing the sides together like cosmokramer showed earlier.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Make the tool a double hole tool so the spacing cant get messed up. I would also like the 3d stp files

    #27 11 days ago

    My big hurdle so far has been finding the full 3/4 birch plywood. My local places dont have it

    #28 11 days ago
    Quoted from lordloss:

    My big hurdle so far has been finding the full 3/4 birch plywood. My local places dont have it

    I got the 3/4 birch from Lowes surprisingly.

    #29 11 days ago
    Quoted from mrm_4:

    I got the 3/4 birch from Lowes surprisingly.

    If you measure it, it will be .7

    #30 11 days ago

    Ive been arguing with the mechanical engineer at work about it
    He thinks its not a big enough difference to matter.

    #31 11 days ago
    Quoted from lordloss:

    He thinks its not a big enough difference to matter.

    We all know that every inch matters when it comes to measuring wood

    Now im gonna check when I get home. Thats crazy.

    #32 11 days ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    I dont think that is the case, it's not much less than the VP cabs, but it's the shipping that is the issue.
    cosmokramer did extensive investigation and if I recall shipping alone was almost as much as shipping an entire pin.
    Unless one is buying them local or by a truckload, its almost not feasible to be a supplier.
    I think that is why Matt started this thread so those of us willing to endeavor will have the tips and tricks of the experts.

    I'm not at all suggesting they aren't worth it. It's a lot of work that goes into these and I know shipping is ridiculous. Just pointing out the costs to make these is not worth it for a lot of us.

    #33 11 days ago

    They look really high quality, but you are probably right about shipping. It would make it too high

    #34 11 days ago
    Quoted from lordloss:

    If you measure it, it will be .7

    I think we might be literally splitting hairs here...

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    #35 11 days ago
    Quoted from mrm_4:

    I think we might be literally splitting hairs here...
    [quoted image]

    Compare it to an older pinball cabinet.

    #36 11 days ago

    I measured the cabinet I have from 1947 that this build is replacing, looks the same, both pieces of wood are hitting the inside of the mark... I'm beginning to think you are trolling me lordloss over 0.01 - 0.05 inches of plywood.

    #37 11 days ago
    Quoted from DexterH:

    They won't answer this or give some obscure answer. Why? Because it's too much and they're low key embarrassed.

    Hey noob, lighten up. Seriously?

    #38 11 days ago
    Quoted from mrm_4:

    I measured the cabinet I have from 1947 that this build is replacing, looks the same, both pieces of wood are hitting the inside of the mark... I'm beginning to think you are trolling me lordloss over 0.01 - 0.05 inches of plywood.

    Not trolling, just concerned ocd engineer here

    #39 11 days ago

    Drilled new 5/8" holes for steel inserts with a 1/2" ID, hope to finally drill holes in cab this weekend. If only I had a router table like Scott!
    Will post results.

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    #40 11 days ago

    that looks pretty sweet George, push the sleeves out of the back so that the metal is flush with the inside. Youll see what I mean when you hold it up to drill.

    #41 11 days ago

    I will post the corner hole guide on thingiverse today and post the link here when its done.

    -Jim

    #42 11 days ago

    here is the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3348794

    Hope this can help other people.
    Thanks,
    -Jim

    #43 8 days ago

    Got the leg holes drilled and have transitioned to body filler mode. If I do another one of these, I will certainly find out if my cousin has a router table for the leg bolt holes. The jig worked fine but do believe those who have done this before me like Scott know what they are talking about!

    cab 1 (resized).jpgcab 2 (resized).jpg
    #44 8 days ago
    Quoted from mrm_4:

    The orginal canbint corners have wedges gluded in and the metal brackets on the outside. I need to figure out a way to cut these wedges for the new one im building so i can glue them in then drill out the holes.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    I have enjoyed reading this thread. Lots of good info. in here. I am impressed with the way to managed to make your wedges, but that is too much work. Is is probably too late at this point in this conversation, but if you are going to be doing cabinet work you need a table saw. Either a hobby saw as another posted talked or hit up craigslist or the pawn shops for table saw.

    There are a lot of good used table saws. All over the country it seems. Some are good. Some are junk. You need to study the table saw market a little bit.

    #45 8 days ago
    Quoted from lordloss:

    Not trolling, just concerned ocd engineer here

    I remember when a 2 x 4 was actually 2" x 4". Then it went to 1 7/8" x 3 7/8". Then 1 3/4 x 3 3/4. Now we are down to 1 1/2" x 3 1/2". Will we see 1 3/8" x 3 3/8" ?

    This lumber shrinkage is now to the point that the stores have finally had to make note of it on the shelf labels: 3/4" actual size 22/32". The difference is minor, but if you are not expecting it.....

    #46 8 days ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    router table for the leg bolt hole

    Router table is only needed for the miter joint (I also use it for the groove for the bottom panel but I can do it with a dado blade on a table saw also)
    The leg bolt holes are routed using this simple jig I made. This was supposed to be just a prototype but it worked so well I have not made the 2.0 version yet...

    505b91ccebd248173954cef8c194582e6ad4debf (resized).jpg
    After I finish my TOM cabinet I will try to get some pics of it in use...

    #47 8 days ago
    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    or the groove for the bottom panel but I can do it with a dado blade

    That's how we did the current cab I'm working on - dado

    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    This was supposed to be just a prototype but it worked so well I have not made the 2.0 version yet

    That's a good prototype!!

    I'd rather paint touch ups and clear playfields, cab work should be left to the experts. I think I'll only look for projects with solid cabs from now on.

    #48 8 days ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    I have enjoyed reading this thread. Lots of good info. in here. I am impressed with the way to managed to make your wedges, but that is too much work. Is is probably too late at this point in this conversation, but if you are going to be doing cabinet work you need a table saw. Either a hobby saw as another posted talked or hit up craigslist or the pawn shops for table saw.
    There are a lot of good used table saws. All over the country it seems. Some are good. Some are junk. You need to study the table saw market a little bit.

    Yes I definitely want to get a table saw if I'm going to continue making cabs, or anything else really for that matter. I was able to finish building the cabinet this weekend and I posted it in the restoration thread I have going.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-rocket-flipperless-restoration/page/2#post-4785040

    Im double dipping in 2 threads with this question, but has anyone transferred wood rails from an old cab to a new? I'm thinking the safest way is to just cut the old ones off. Any thoughts?

    #49 8 days ago
    Quoted from mrm_4:

    Yes I definitely want to get a table saw if I'm going to continue making cabs, or anything else really for that matter. I was able to finish building the cabinet this weekend and I posted it in the restoration thread I have going.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-rocket-flipperless-restoration/page/2#post-4785040
    Im double dipping in 2 threads with this question, but has anyone transferred wood rails from an old cab to a new? I'm thinking the safest way is to just cut the old ones off. Any thoughts?

    Before we moved to our current house, I had a very nice woodshop with a cabinet saw. That thing sucked up a lot of room and cost a bunch. I would look at a good track saw next time or a panel saw

    #50 8 days ago
    Quoted from kcZ:

    Before we moved to our current house, I had a very nice woodshop with a cabinet saw. That thing sucked up a lot of room and cost a bunch. I would look at a good track saw next time or a panel saw

    I bought and old Mikita table saw at pawn shop. I'm having a ball with it. It is a small portable saw. The nice thing is that it lightweight and I can pick it up and move it at will. The bad thing is that are are no safety feature, like a riving blade. And there is no dust collection so I have to wear a mask when using it.

    I want a better table saw. This is a video of portable table saw comparisons. I think I am going to go for the Hitachi.

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