(Topic ID: 310663)

#C-907 and #C-908 Ball guide rail post Bally - 3D print file

By martymart

2 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 21 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 83 days ago by latenite04
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#2 2 years ago

That shouldn't be a difficult part to model if you have dimensions. Do you have calipers? Could you take some pictures of the original and get some dimensions?

I mocked this up based on standard post dimensions.
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#5 2 years ago

Thanks for the measurements, this one is not far off. It needs a deeper dish for the screw head. Is the diameter of the ball guide 3/16, that was the only number I could come up with looking at marco. Does the original clamp the ball guide firmly or just lightly hold it in place? I might have to move the guide channel in just a bit.

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#7 2 years ago

Here it is. I did the test prints on my fdm printer and it prints and works well but I did the final ones in resin.
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5 months later
#10 1 year ago
Quoted from pvogel3634:

You ready to print more? I have a Captain Fantastic project where arch and both arch posts are missing. I sourced the metal arch, but the posts are just not out there on the market. Thanks for your consideration, Paul

I sent you a pm.

1 month later
#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Ignem:

Any chance you've posted or would be willing to post the STL somewhere?

Here you go. I had posted it on thingiverse but I guess I forgot to post the link here.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5275068

I added a file that attaches the cap and post with 4 sprues. If you are going to have this printed professionally, like at Shapeways, this is much cheaper since there is a base charge per part. You just have to cut the sprues with wire cutters.
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1 year later
#21 83 days ago
Quoted from fb_rider:

I need some of these as well. Is anyone selling some they 3D printed? What type of 3D printers should I look at if I want to print some of my own?

If you want to print your own you can do it with a filament printer but you will see the layer lines. Not a structural issue but you might not like the visual. A resin printer will look more like the original injection molded part. You don't need anything fancy, an entry level smaller resin printer will work well, the downside is resin is toxic and you have to wash the item and cure it with UV after it's finished printing. If you do go with resin make sure to choose a quality resin that's tough and won't yellow, I settled on something called M68 tough resin.

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