Quoted from latenite04:That shouldn't be a difficult part to model if you have dimensions. Do you have calipers? Could you take some pictures of the original and get some dimensions?
I mocked this up based on standard post dimensions.
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Wow that looks fantastic.
I will get some photos and measurements shortly.
Here are some photos with measurements.
Please let me know if you need any further detail.
2C5C7B5C-974E-4835-AA9A-32A43BD163C5 (resized).jpeg2C8C55CD-B725-42EB-BC0F-D012B211629F (resized).jpeg3294C15D-7AA0-4F9A-935F-C09CC88823BC (resized).jpeg33505FEE-C0CF-4E71-80B2-D5752180AD37 (resized).jpeg3BA618B2-D248-407A-9B77-2BC550856830 (resized).jpeg55017964-7BA9-4825-8421-CDEE84DCE18F (resized).jpeg7CD1408C-2972-46AA-B8B6-FFACCCF0FBDD (resized).jpeg947EC0E9-9AAC-441A-B641-DBE7E75D4706 (resized).jpeg94B79679-CE8A-45ED-A8E5-48B777B411D3 (resized).jpegD2C094F3-437B-4C7F-B438-EBFCB78E5CA1 (resized).jpegDD9780B6-7F6B-4D2B-8B8E-E1B8DB47182F (resized).jpegEF07EA62-6217-4CE5-84D7-69F8AE6E440C (resized).jpegFAC70D2C-5211-4183-91BC-E8BFAF39BB52 (resized).jpegThanks for the measurements, this one is not far off. It needs a deeper dish for the screw head. Is the diameter of the ball guide 3/16, that was the only number I could come up with looking at marco. Does the original clamp the ball guide firmly or just lightly hold it in place? I might have to move the guide channel in just a bit.
Quoted from latenite04:Here it is. I did the test prints on my fdm printer and it prints and works well but I did the final ones in resin.
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Looks fantastic. Thank you so much for your help and assistance.
You ready to print more? I have a Captain Fantastic project where arch and both arch posts are missing. I sourced the metal arch, but the posts are just not out there on the market. Thanks for your consideration, Paul
Quoted from pvogel3634:You ready to print more? I have a Captain Fantastic project where arch and both arch posts are missing. I sourced the metal arch, but the posts are just not out there on the market. Thanks for your consideration, Paul
I sent you a pm.
Quoted from Ignem:Any chance you've posted or would be willing to post the STL somewhere?
Here you go. I had posted it on thingiverse but I guess I forgot to post the link here.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5275068
I added a file that attaches the cap and post with 4 sprues. If you are going to have this printed professionally, like at Shapeways, this is much cheaper since there is a base charge per part. You just have to cut the sprues with wire cutters.
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Thanks, I appreciate it! I printed it in FDM last night with the filament I already had loaded just to see how it would come out and I'm pretty happy with it. I think it would look better in resin, but it's almost completely hidden once the playfield is assembled anyway so I think it'll be fine. I'll post a pic of the white print once I have my playfield repopulated.
Thanks again for posting the STL...also, thingiverse search sucks balls.
So I assume printing in resin produces a smoother part than the filament. Would be nice if we got enough interest to have a nice white batch printed by a company. I don't know.much about this stuff but perhaps someone has done a print that truly mimics the original? Minw are in good shape just yellowed, and when I replace the bally logo lane guides and posts, if I leqve these yellow they just won't look right
I'm looking for the same rail posts and cap for my eight ball deluxe. No one has them but I have everything else brand new, MIRCO playfield caps plastics, etc. Can anyone make these for me? Mine are ok but yellowed also.
Quoted from latenite04:Here you go. I had posted it on thingiverse but I guess I forgot to post the link here.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5275068
I added a file that attaches the cap and post with 4 sprues. If you are going to have this printed professionally, like at Shapeways, this is much cheaper since there is a base charge per part. You just have to cut the sprues with wire cutters.
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Thanks for sharing, these are hard to find. I can print them at will now. I appreciate the help!
20230423_174520 (resized).jpgIt seems that 3-D printed stuff just doesn't have the right surface look. That said, "it's better than nothing".
Quoted from swampwiz:It seems that 3-D printed stuff just doesn't have the right surface look. That said, "it's better than nothing".
These were test pieces at quick speed. If you slow the down, increase the surface tension, they can look nearly as good. Also if you lightly sand them after you can get rid of alot of the
"Layering" effects. Material has an effect as well.
Considering you can't buy these anywhere, I'll be happy to be able to make my own now. I have a supersonic restore next on deck after I finish my homebrew, and I'm going to do them in red. I think these will be fine.
I need some of these as well. Is anyone selling some they 3D printed? What type of 3D printers should I look at if I want to print some of my own?
Quoted from fb_rider:I need some of these as well. Is anyone selling some they 3D printed? What type of 3D printers should I look at if I want to print some of my own?
If you want to print your own you can do it with a filament printer but you will see the layer lines. Not a structural issue but you might not like the visual. A resin printer will look more like the original injection molded part. You don't need anything fancy, an entry level smaller resin printer will work well, the downside is resin is toxic and you have to wash the item and cure it with UV after it's finished printing. If you do go with resin make sure to choose a quality resin that's tough and won't yellow, I settled on something called M68 tough resin.
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