(Topic ID: 321570)

UPDATE - ~~Replacement Spike 2 CPU Board Breaks Insider Connected~~

By TheProgrammer

1 year ago


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    #48 1 year ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:I don't think it's a common problem - but I have talked to a few people that had woofer chip problems.
    Not to derail the thread - but my Munsters is fine when first turned on. Let it warm up, shut off (letting the power supplies discharge), then back on - woofer chip gets hot. Let it cool off - fine when turned on again. I replaced the woofer chip, problem still occured. It's a Class D amp, so more complicated than just a straight amp.
    Just a somewhat educated guess (I'm an electrical engr.), the backbox LED's dump a lot of heat into the CPU, and the woofer chip is almost right next to the LED's on the left side. I took a FLIR of the CPU...the LED's definitely dump out the heat. But since I replaced the woofer chip and it still had a problem, it might be a part that is temperature sensitive (i.e. some caps come to mind). Since seeing the FLIR, I've turned the backbox light down to 30%
    In the end, didn't want to fart around with it and ordered a new CPU.

    I cringed when I saw those super bright LEDs on the main board on my first spike game. First thing I did was turn the backbox brightness down considerably on all my games. Driving an LED at the max the datasheet says gets hot and reduces their life.

    "geeze, i had to replace the CPU board because the backbox GI LED died and now IC does not work"

    #89 1 year ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    Standard adjustments...almost at the very end. Easier to go backwards from #1 than forward...it rolls over to the end (i.e. goes from 1 to ~99).
    There's two settings, backbox during attract and game play. I set both to 30%.

    Keep an eye out that there is a few percentage points that introduce a strobe light effect that you might not notice right away. They must be using a pulse width adjustments and it gets into an off period frequency I can perceive and it looks like hell out of the corner of my eye. Distracting when the game next to you is strobing. Just a couple clicks higher or lower updates faster than my eyes notice and looks fine.

    I turned down the playfield GI and inserts some too, just a little bit to take some stress off of the LEDs for likely more usable life. Some of the inserts are SMT LED beads soldered to a PCB not easily replaced in the field.

    If I was stern, I would use the next size bigger SMT LED and just run them less hard for the same brightness. I guess that $0.005 difference adds up when buying millions of the LEDs.

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