burningman:
the 555 twist-in socket is loose against the pc board for the one of the signpost bulbs?

if so, the following should help you out:
- remove the bulb and socket in question

- using a toothpick or a small pair of needle-nosed pliers, carefully bend the 2 contacts of the socket outward so that more tension is created when you re-insert and twist the socket to lock it in place.

if that doesn't work, you can tackle it the harder way:

- remove the wired connector to the board and unscrew it from the stand up post

- next, remove the bulb in question and it's socket

- heat up and re-flow the 2 solder covered curved connect areas that the bulb socket contacts press against.

note: if that doesn't work, using leaded solder (you want to use the same type which is already there), heat up and flow in additional to the 2 solder covered curved surfaces that the contacts from the bulb socket make connection with when you twist and lock the socket in place.

note: you want to flow enough so that the solder pools and solidifies to a pair of arcs that are about 1/32" raised from the surface of the pc board

- re-assemble

(changing out the bulbs numerous times will cause the solder arcs to wear down ever so slightly [the solder is much softer than the copper contacts on the bulb sockets]. in addition, the surface of the solder can become oxidized causing a poor connection to the 2 contacts of the bulb socket.

Is this part the only thing I'd need to order?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5145-XX

part# 20-10293 as seen here:http://www.pinball.co/Products/7052-20-10293.aspx

It looks like it is NLA at Marcos.

Looks like they have it here (towards bottom of page): http://www.actionpinball.com/elect.htm

good luck
Shawn

Yesterday when looking for another part I found that I had two reed switches in my parts supply! So is this able to be just dropped right in? no need for any diode or anything?

Thanks for all the info. I have my game partially dismantled to install plastic protectors and to replace the snack bar plastic. I also figured since I have the ramps partially off I may as well remove them and add lights to the jet bumpers (gonna do the flasher mod). My CFTBL is a prototype one and has some differences vs the production. When I'm done I'll take a couple of photos for those who want to see what's different vs. the production games.

MXV:
a friend of mine has a prototype as well. one of the changes that I noticed immediately were the snackbar inserts. the top one on either side was a white-blue, while the bottom ones were blue.

it wasn't as decernable when the machine was powered off, but once those inserts are illuminated, you can really notice it.

All four of mine are the same color. Some other differences is the KISS letters are red hearts with white letters inside and the right ramp sign plastic had different info on it and has a decal stuck over the bottom light to reflect what it was changed to. I think some other inserts may be a different color and the curly ramp has holes cut out of it for the chase lamps to come up through and mount with these clips. The speaker panel also has different art in the speaker grills. It had black flippers with yellow rubber and the legs were not chrome but were some specially coated legs kind of like the prototype Shadow legs but smoother.

can you take a photo of your right ramp sign and your speaker panels? I'm curious to see what is different about them