Apollo 13
Sega, 1995Hi all.
Burning through up-kicker coils on an A-13 at a prodigious rate, smoke, burned coil wrappers.
Using the manual specified 090-5036-01, tried black beast brand....
Have the upgraded FET on the board.
Searched for an internet approved upgrade/mod with no hits.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Robert
Bump?
I'm wondering if something like the 90-5030-00 would work better?
The stock coil is supposedly a 24 gauge wire with 940 turns, the 5030 is a 23 gauge with 1100 turns?
Don't know if the bobbin is the same size, or the resistance.
Thoughts?
Hi Robert
is that coil supposed to stay on for long periods of time? or just kick and quit?
sounds like it is either gettin stuck on, or too much power supplied to it.
have you checked the upgrade parts output against another output?
It is the ball launch feed up-kicker. It isn't getting stuck on, but Apollo 13 has such frequent multiball that it keeps burning up the coil.
In this machines frequently played location, I get anywhere from a couple months to weeks from the stock coil before it dies.
I haven't tried running a different number coil there yet, I was hoping someone else out there has had a similar issue.
Yikes. That's crazy. Maybe you can throw a resistor in line that is just the right amount to take the edge off but keep the game working properly. Would have to be high wattage though.
Yeah, I thought about that, I think this coil momentarily draws about 750 watts, that'd be one honking big resistor!
I just swapped in one of the sling coils, 23 gauge at 1100 turns. Seems plenty strong, nice soft loading into the shooter lane. The stock coil really makes a thwack when it loads.
Anyone know if the p20nf10 transistors are switched fully on by the computer? Or are they set to a specific amperage for each coil position? All the gate resistors are the same 22k ohm, so I guess I answered my own question.
Quoted from penguinchicken:Yeah, I thought about that, I think this coil momentarily draws about 750 watts, that'd be one honking big resistor!
I just swapped in one of the sling coils, 23 gauge at 1100 turns. Seems plenty strong, nice soft loading into the shooter lane. The stock coil really makes a thwack when it loads.
Anyone know if the p20nf10 transistors are switched fully on by the computer? Or are they set to a specific amperage for each coil position? All the gate resistors are the same 22k ohm, so I guess I answered my own question.
Damn. I know of ways to make voltage limiters with a few parts, but an elegant 1 part solution would be ideal here. It probably isn't over-voltage here anyway, but over amperage in this situation. Obviously Ohms law says dropping the voltage will drop the current. AC is much easier to work with as you'd just make a clipper with 2 diodes.
Maybe just throw a couple 1n4007s in series in line or something stupid like that and see what happens. If it doesn't need to drop much, that may be enough. Or make a voltage divider and hope the resistors survive.
Is the board burned at the transistor that keeps failing? Take a good photo of it and post it.
If it keeps locking on, the board is likely damage with carbon burn from the heat. This carbon burn in the board conducts electricity and will contribute to the transistor continuing to fail.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com
Yep, it sure is burned, had to work around melted/lifted traces too.
The thought of that carbonized fiberglass becoming a conductor never crossed my mind, never even heard of that! So is it feeding source current to the gate? Wouldn't that lock it on all the time?
What's the solution? Removing the burned material with an exacto till you get to fresh board material?
Yes, you must remove the damage area of the board. There's really no pretty way to do it, it has to be removed. You can "float" the transistor in the hole made and apply jumpers. You can fill the hole with an epoxy and lay new traces, but without a lot of practice and skill with such things, and even with, it's a lot of work. "Floating" it is perfectly fine.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com
No, you don't need to "cut out" the entire area, just remove the carbon. Depending on how much burn there is, that could leave a sizable hole.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com
Here's a post where johnwartjr repaired some burn damage. Not saying you'll have to go that far, just an example.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-a-hole-in-a-pcb
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Camas, WA