(Topic ID: 282555)

Burned out flipper solenoid in 20 sec..how.

By Bandit78

3 years ago



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flipper 2 (resized).jpg
#1 3 years ago

I held right flipper on Bally KISS for 20-30 seconds and burned out the solenoid. In the pix, the left orange wire run in the wire harness, the center grey runs to the EOS switch, the right grey wire runs to the EOS switch, and the right brown wire runs to the harness. The two grey wires are spliced to the wires connected to the solenoid with masking tape....! The EOS switch is always closed and opens when solenoid is activated and is 2-leafed, not 3. I assume the EOS is correct for this model. I also included pix of the solenoid as it does not match the left flipper.

flipper 2 (resized).jpgflipper 2 (resized).jpgflipper 3 (resized).jpgflipper 3 (resized).jpgflipper 4 (resized).jpgflipper 4 (resized).jpg
#2 3 years ago

I can’t tell from your pics, but it is almost certainly an issue with your EOS. Could be mechanical or wired incorrectly or both.

Do you have schematics? Compare them to your left and right assemblies and you should be able to see what’s going on.

When you order a new correct coil, go ahead and order flipper rebuild kits and start over with these.

Read through this thread to learn all about flippers.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

I’m not recommending you upgrade, there is just a lot of good info there.

#3 3 years ago

As Black_Knight said, probably wired incorrectly or misadjusted EOS switch.

Use your DMM to verify the wiring after you replace the flipper coil. When the flipper coil plunger is extended to the stop (i.e., coil energized), the EOS switch should be open and you should then measure the total resistance across both sets of windings in the coil. When the plunger is in the resting (unenergized) position, you will only measure the resistance across the low resistance winding. Verify with DMM.

#4 3 years ago

Additionally, when you press the flipper button and hold it, if you hear the solenoid humming or buzzing, release the button immediately. Most likely the EOS is misadjusted. Holding for 20-30 seconds will overheat your coil.

#5 3 years ago

The EOS wires should always be soldered to the terminals at the banded ends of the diodes. The power wire should also be soldered to the outer terminal at the banded end of the diode (looks to be the terminal with the brown wire in your picture). I assume the brown wire is power and the orange is return or the fuse would've blown immediately when the flipper button was pressed, so that should be correct.

As the others have said, the EOS switch is probably misadjusted or it is shorted somehow.

#6 3 years ago

Thanks for all the replies. I will take a close look tomorrow to follow up all the ideas..thanks.

#7 3 years ago

I checked the wiring, the hot power is soldered to tab 1 on the banded side of diode along with the EOS wire that thengoes to the tab on the EOS switch furthest from the coil.
The other EOS wire goes from center tab #2 (banded side of diode) to the EOS switch tab closest to the coil. And the line back to the board is soldered to tab # 3 (no band ).
You mentioned misadjusted switch. It does open when flipper is fully extended, is there any other adjustment that I could check.
Could a bad diode cause the EOS switch not to activate even if the wiring and switch alignment is correct.

This restored KISS machine is my first, bought 3 months ago..got the fever and bought a Mata Hari as a project pin....another pinball newbie addicted......

I received a new coil yesterday, but am holding off until I can determine a reason why the old one burned up in 20 seconds.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from Bandit78:

You mentioned misadjusted switch. It does open when flipper is fully extended, is there any other adjustment that I could check.

Directions for checking that the EoS switch is opening and functioning correctly are in post #3 above:

Quoted from JethroP:

Use your DMM to verify the wiring after you replace the flipper coil. When the flipper coil plunger is extended to the stop (i.e., coil energized), the EOS switch should be open and you should then measure the total resistance across both sets of windings in the coil. When the plunger is in the resting (unenergized) position, you will only measure the resistance across the low resistance winding. Verify with DMM.

If you need more specific guidance on how to do this please advise.

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