If you’re handy with a soldering iron you can bulletproof them yourself with a couple parts.

The only thing that seems worth doing on those is the caps and voltage regulators (driver and display). Not old enough for connectors to be an issue yet.

Time and money would be better spent on getting some stainless armor and legs for Getaway and T-2.

That would get expensive quickly, especially if Clive determines there are no faults and you still get charged the no faults fee. Just replace capacitors and keep an eye on your voltages to ensure nothing looks unusually low. If nothing else you want to check the 5v power supply in each game. You can also replace inefficient and power hungry LM232K linear regulators with switching regulators to be proactive.

Would he charge that fee if you tell him ahead of time that there's no faults, and you just want preventative maintenance?

I don't think I've heard of anyone sending out a board for repair for just preventative maintenance. I think most people just work on the board on their own, or only send it for repair when there's actually a problem they can't resolve on their own.

Leave them until/unless you have an issue.

If it ain’t broke ... don’t fix it.

rd

Connectors will be an issue in a few years. Seen some fail now. Replace ribbons if original.

And here comes the post in a few weeks...I can see it now:

"Hey guys, I pulled some traces replacing capacitors that didn't need to be replaced? Anyone that can tell me how to do a solder stitch thingy, or tell me who will accept my boards for repair? "

If you have to ask if you need to bulletproof working boards...you certainly don't have enough know-how to do it yourself, and wasting 2k+ to have them professionally "not repaired" is just silly beyond belief. It's a pinball machine. No matter what you do, it's going to break down at some point.

If you want to do something, then get the linear 5V regulators that dude above mentions from Kahr.us or whatever, and use those...but FFS....it's easy to pull traces when replacing those big snap caps. I've had plenty of experience with them over the 70 some odd pins I've owned, and I've pulled traces, even being really careful. If they're not a problem, leave them the hell alone.

Preventative maintenance like switching to lithium or remote batteries and NVRAM is wise. Changing components like capacitors, transistors and regulators that are fully functional is not. You are much more likely to create new issues by doing the latter than improving anything. You can not "bullet proof" any part of a pinball machine unless you surround the whole machine in bullet proof glass. This is coming from someone who has 20+ years and 500+ pinball machines experience and does his own tech work.