(Topic ID: 122544)

Building a Shaker Motor - Project Complete!

By RacerRik

6 years ago


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  • 42 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by waldo34
  • Topic is favorited by 19 Pinsiders

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    Shaker Motor Circuit Board_2471.jpg
    Star Trek Shaker_2481.jpg
    IMG_2189.JPG
    IMG_2188.JPG
    IMG_2202.JPG
    520-5065-00.jpg

    #1 6 years ago

    I am building a shaker motor from scratch for use in modern Stern games and I have questions. Does anyone know the part numbers for the 2 pin and 3 pin Molex connectors that hook the shaker up to pinball cabinet connectors? Where is a good source for those connectors?

    Looking at the Stern shaker in my ACDC and I am puzzled by the shaker PCB circuit. Why are there two fuses and two diodes? Only one path is used and I don't see how the other path could be used.

    #2 6 years ago

    Funny.. I just went through the BOM a few days ago to build my own.

    About $30 in parts minus the plastic cover. Much cheaper if you were going to do a bunch of them and order in quantity

    Mouser or digikey should have those.. Digikey has a nice online chat that's really helpful when trying to pinpoint a specific part.

    Quoted from RacerRik:

    I am building a shaker motor from scratch for use in modern Stern games and I have questions. Does anyone know the part numbers for the 2 pin and 3 pin Molex connectors that hook the shaker up to pinball cabinet connectors? Where is a good source for those connectors?
    Looking at the Stern shaker in my ACDC and I am puzzled by the shaker PCB circuit. Why are there two fuses and two diodes? Only one path is used and I don't see how the other path could be used.

    #3 6 years ago

    I know your looking for the connectors, but you can buy that board preassembled.
    http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1637

    520-5065-00.jpg

    #4 6 years ago

    I saw the board at PBL. $30 for one diode, one fuse and one resistor is ridiculous! The connectors I am looking for are the ones that mate with the harness in the game. My total cost for this thing (not including the material I will use from my shop) will be about $15 plus connectors to mate with the game harness. Plus it looks like a fun project!

    #5 6 years ago

    I installed a shaker before but I cant recall what the connectors looked like. Can you take a pic of the one your looking for?
    Pinballlife does have a bunch of different molex connectors.

    #6 6 years ago
    Quoted from Monster_Bash:

    Funny.. I just went through the BOM a few days ago to build my own.

    So - are you going to build one? I think this will be fun! I will post some pics when I get it finished.

    #7 6 years ago
    Quoted from Jasontaps:

    Pinballlife does have a bunch of different molex connectors.

    I looked at PinballLife and they don't sell the connectors I need.

    #8 6 years ago

    You may want to check out this page

    https://kens.dlinkddns.com/?13

    #10 6 years ago

    Hell if someone is putting together a Bulk order on these I would be interested. Would need the plastic cover though.

    #11 6 years ago

    Thanks! That is exactly what I was looking for!

    The web page with the homemade shaker was interesting. I want mine to be much better built than that. When mine is finished, I want it to look and perform as good as or better than the factory units.

    #12 6 years ago

    Here's another build option I have been looking at for my Congo.

    http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=14734&&p=143713&&page=13

    #13 6 years ago

    Hey RacerRik if you do these on a larger scale i would take atleast four of them.

    #14 6 years ago

    The "main ingredient" is the motor and I don't think I can get those for cheap anymore. The place I bought them has sold out and I don't expect them to get more stock. I bought three motors and if this 1st one works nice, I will be using the other two to build two more shakers for my other games.
    If someone finds the motors for a reasonable price, building more may be possible.

    #16 6 years ago

    this link said the motor was only $5 from a reputable source.

    EDIT: Nevermind they are out of stock as well.

    #17 6 years ago

    Those look similar to the motors in those kids PowerWheels vehicles. Don't ask me how I know but they work fine at 18v, at least until the plastic gearboxes melt.

    #18 6 years ago

    Will they work on 12VDC?

    #19 6 years ago

    The Pittman motor is not going to work well as a shaker motor. The shaft diameter is too small to handle the loads from the fly weights. You need a motor with dual 1/4" shafts.

    #20 6 years ago

    Yea, The powerwheels are 12v DC. I looked them up and they are rated for 13v 1.5A

    They are pretty durable motors, I've never had one fail due to use, only being submerged in water. I've ran them for extended periods at 18v DC, the gearbox always failed before the motor. For as long as a shaker motor stays on they might work but I don't know how the rest of the shaker motor works so the shaft etc might not be what you need, but there's lots of info out there about them, PowerWheels modding seems to be a thing.

    #21 6 years ago
    Quoted from Gexchange:

    Would need the plastic cover though.

    Why? If you HAVE to have one, why not an appropriate size Tupperware container?

    #22 6 years ago

    The force resulting from a 4oz fly weight at 3000 RPM and a 1 inch CG radius works out to 63 lbs of force. A shaft smaller than 1/4" is going to bend / break! You can use the following to calculate different parameters.

    http://www.calctool.org/CALC/phys/newtonian/centrifugal

    #23 6 years ago

    Looks like there is a lot of motors on ebay, shipping is high but in a lot purchase not to bad.

    12 VOLT ELECTRIC MOTOR HC970 DOUBLE 1/4IN SHAFTS HY TORQUE
    ebay.com link: itm

    #24 6 years ago

    Those are the same ones I bought.... just a bit more spendy.

    I got a little time to work on my shaker today. Almost done! I ordered the connectors from Great Plains Electronics.

    One thing I found out today... the shafts on those Johnson motors are HARD!!! I was drilling the recess for the set screw and had to resharpen the drill bit three times for each end of the shaft.

    #25 6 years ago

    I ordered a couple of them hoping you post a few pictures of the finished project.

    #26 6 years ago

    Not finished quite yet. Still need to build the circuit board and the fly weight shields. But the basic shaker is finished and tested. I clamped it down to my work bench and shook my shop!IMG_2202.JPG

    #27 6 years ago

    Here is one of the side plates. Made these from 0.125" 6061 aluminum. I cut the plate on a radial arm saw ( yes I know they are meant for wood, but they work great on aluminum up to about 3/16" thick just using a standard 50 tooth carbide woodworking blade). I drilled and countersunk the holes on a drill press.IMG_2188.JPG

    #28 6 years ago

    Here are the fly weights. I used 0.625" x 1.25" brass bar stock (purchased from Online Metals.com). I used a hack saw to rough cut the length, the cleaned the cuts up on the radial arm saw (yes - it cuts brass very well also - just don't try to cut the bar stock off directly - only use it too slowly take shave cuts and true up the hack saw cuts). Length is 1.75" and the axle hole is centered 0.25" from one end. Again, I used a drill press to drill the axle holes and the pilot for the set screw. Before I threaded the fly weights, I slipped them on the motor shaft to use as a drill guide for the shaft indents. I used 1/4-20 x 0.625" set screws and used LockTite to make sure they don't back out.

    The most important tool needed to build this is a drill press. You could get away without using the radial arm saw if you don't mind the edge cuts looking a bit rough.IMG_2189.JPG

    #29 6 years ago

    If you are trying to replicate the same rotating mass as the original shaker motor assemblies, I would think your counterweights are too wide. You could probably purchase some cold-rolled steel bar stock from McMaster-Carr in the correct width and thickness to begin with, just cut the right length. Drilling and tapping would would be almost as easy as brass.

    #30 6 years ago

    I did not like the factory weights. They are too thick thus pushing the CG out farther from the motor bearing. Mine are wider but thinner than the factory weights. Mine are also a bit shorter than the factory weights but brass is heavier than steel so the end result is that my fly weights are about 0.8 oz heavier than the factory ones. Which is what I wanted since I want the shake to be less "buzzy" than the factory shaker.

    #31 6 years ago

    This project is great, thanks for the pics.

    #32 6 years ago

    I can't wait to get it installed in a machine and see how it shakes!

    #33 6 years ago

    My shaker motors arrived. Planning on looking the shaker in my Star Trek Pro tonight. Should give me a pretty good idea on the wiring harness design. For the board I have not decided on making or Pinball Life. Can't wait to try this out in my AC/DC.

    Love to put a setup in my Congo and trigger it off the Volcano. Not really understanding the board design difference between Stern and AFM Pinbits shakers. I know at a very basic level the Pinbits is hooked to a flasher to trigger it.

    #34 6 years ago

    If you use the Stern board, you will need two more connectors to hook up the harness and shaker to the board. I think they are 0.156 molex connectors. You will also need the Stern wire harness. I am building my own harness / board so I only need the two connectors that hook up to the cabinet connectors in the game. I can post a pic of my board when I finish it but it is going to be pretty simple. Just a fuse block, diode and 1ohm / 10 watt resistor. Been having too much fun playing Star Trek to work on the shaker!!!

    2 weeks later
    #35 6 years ago

    Shaker is finished! Came out awesome! It works like I was hoping in that it is a lower frequency shake - more like a rumble instead of a buzz. Very smooth and quiet also.

    Here is a pic of the circuit board and the shaker installed in my Star Trek.Shaker Motor Circuit Board_2471.jpgStar Trek Shaker_2481.jpg

    #36 6 years ago

    I have had several people asking me to build a shaker for them. Sorry but I am just a hobbyist and don't have time to build these for sale. I tried to provide sufficient information for you to copy the design and build your own if you want. I will also be happy to answer any questions.

    RacerRik

    #37 6 years ago

    How many rpm's is your motor and what does it look like? There are no side shots showing the motor. Thanks!

    #38 6 years ago
    Quoted from FUNWIZ:

    How many rpm's is your motor and what does it look like? There are no side shots showing the motor. Thanks!

    Here are the motor specs:

    JOHNSON ELECTRIC HC 970 series permanent magnet motor.

    SPECIFICATIONS •Voltage 12 DC
    •Amperage 0.5 Amps (no load)
    •Speed 3200
    •Rotation Reversible
    •Bearings Bronze Bushings
    •Enclosure Open
    •Duty Intermittent
    •Mount 2 tapped holes on face
    •Shaft 1/4" dia. x 5/8"
    •Size 2" dia. x 2-3/4"

    #39 6 years ago

    GREAT! :0) I just wanted to make sure I had found the right one.

    #40 6 years ago

    Very nice, I hope to complete my build this weekend.

    #41 6 years ago

    Sounds good! Please post pics of yours and let us know how it turned out.

    #42 6 years ago

    My build came in at about $70 due to a high cost for the board from pinball life. But it sure made the project easier.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-home-made-shaker#post-2408089

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