(Topic ID: 90820)

Buffing wheel is trying to kill me!


By tonycip

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Squeakman
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    #1 5 years ago

    Hi all I have a 8" grinder and put a buffing wheel on it, but every time I try to buff some metal ball guides it tries to rip it out of my hands. I try to be careful not to let it catch an edge but there's sometimes a lot of odd edges, whats the trick?
    before it hurts me !

    #2 5 years ago

    Don't let a big wheel like that get a hold of too much metal at once.

    The friction will build in an instant and could slice through your gloves when it grabs a rail.

    You can put a smaller wheel on it and see if that gives you more control.

    #3 5 years ago

    you cant let it get to the edge and have angle to let it get a bite. you have to control at least one of these two factors at all times and preferable i like to give it neither. your get better as you get limits found.

    also, i think grinders tend to spin too fast (for polishers or sanders for that matter) , i like slower speed choices therefor i like to use a reversable head wood lathe, lots of power, and a clear buffing wheel frrefloating with 360' access.

    vid1900's, smaller dia wheel is a great idea, the smaller dia will also decreases working speed, and there are some differnt comp materials (more felt like and less loose fiberious cloth like that may be avaible also)

    #4 5 years ago

    Thanks guys will try that. maybe a helmet too ..

    #5 5 years ago

    you use the bottom part that is running away from you.

    #6 5 years ago

    What is your grinder/buffer's RPM? A lot of grinders are about 3600 RPM, but that is too fast and dangerous for buffing, and you will most likely melt plastics if you try to use if for that. It will grab and rip stuff out of your hands, and fling it across the room or into your face.

    Buffing should be done w/ a motor set up at about 1750 RPM. Even then, it's a risky thing. Always work on the lower portion of the wheel. Wear gloves and eye protection. I have a 1750 RPM buffer and use it on a lot of plastic items, but I have to be very careful. I can polish pinballs and other metal parts, but it's way easier to drop them in a tumbler (one of the most essential tools for restoration).

    Don C.

    #7 5 years ago

    The one time I didn't wear gloves, the piece got away from me and nearly ripped my thumb off. Got a couple of nice scars to remind to wear those gloves.

    #8 5 years ago
    Quoted from Don_C:

    What is your grinder/buffer's RPM? A lot of grinders are about 3600 RPM, but that is too fast and dangerous for buffing, and you will most likely melt plastics if you try to use if for that. It will grab and rip stuff out of your hands, and fling it across the room or into your face.
    Buffing should be done w/ a motor set up at about 1750 RPM. Even then, it's a risky thing. Always work on the lower portion of the wheel. Wear gloves and eye protection. I have a 1750 RPM buffer and use it on a lot of plastic items, but I have to be very careful. I can polish pinballs and other metal parts, but it's way easier to drop them in a tumbler (one of the most essential tools for restoration).
    Don C.

    ya I'll check the rpm's your probably right on that, I know to use the bottom of the wheel, but still the rails have stuff like mounting points that stick out a little and catch easy, what would be the best wheel to use?

    #9 5 years ago

    I think you got good advice and are doing it right. Takes some practice to have the right pressure to put up against the wheel to get the proper finish as well as not ripping apart your part or your hands. This is what I use from my auto hobby and has been working well for me for pinball related polishing. Other places you can get similar but have had good luck and they’re local.

    http://www.eastwood.com/buff-kit-stainless-aluminum-brass-steel-6-inch.html

    #10 5 years ago

    Use a 5' grinder instead, much more fun.But make sure it is at least 800watts.

    #11 5 years ago

    Start with a stitched buff first much less dangerous until you build your confidence and learn what you are doing.

    #12 5 years ago
    Quoted from nasco62:

    Start with a stitched buff first much less dangerous until you build your confidence and learn what you are doing.

    thanks I'll try that.

    #13 5 years ago

    If it's a small part that I can't get both hands on I like to secure the part in Vice Grips (I use a cloth or some scrap rubber to protect the part from the Vice Grip).

    Gloves and a face shield will keep you safe, but you'll still get a bunch of rouge & bits of wheel fabric in your hair if you don't wear a cap...or the helmet you mentioned .

    #14 5 years ago

    For polishing and buffing metals I use a professional Baldor 3600 RPM pedestal buffer.

    Baldor makes 1800 RPM buffers too for plastic.

    For about $100 more, they also make a 2-speed unit that can do both.

    I probably would have bought one of these if it would have been available at the time I got mine years ago.

    If you are looking to do some serious polishing/buffing of metals though, you want a 3600 RPM buffer with two 8" sewn buffing wheels (one agressive and one fine) along with an asortment of rouge. I use mine on a lot of stainless parts and some steel and aluminum too. I don't buff a lot of plastic but it would be nice to have the optional slower speed anyway for occasional use.

    #15 5 years ago

    I used a polisher professionally for over ten years, but in a much smaller scale. I have found its all about technique, how you hold the parts and not catching edges. If you use correct technique you will be fine. Give it time and you will get better and better at it as you learn what to do and not do.

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 5,799.00
    Pinball Machine
    Flip N Out Pinball
    $ 48.00
    Cabinet - Other
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    From: $ 19.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    PinBoss Mods
    £ 55.00
    Lighting - Led
    PinballToys
    $ 36.99
    $ 9.95
    Apparel - Unisex
    Pinball Wheezer
    $ 5,999.00
    Pinball Machine
    Nitro Pinball Shop
    $ 839.00
    Flipper Parts
    Mircoplayfields
    $ 89.99
    Lighting - Led
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 35.00
    Cabinet - Decals
    Pinball Haus
    $ 109.95
    Cabinet - Armor And Blades
    Hookedonpinball.com
    From: $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 495.00
    Cabinet - Armor And Blades
    MI Pinball Refinery
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 34.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    The MOD Couple
    $ 65.00
    Cabinet - Armor And Blades
    Texas Pinball
    $ 1,099.00
    $ 48.00
    Cabinet - Other
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    From: $ 42.00
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 24.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ULEKstore
    $ 22.00
    $ 125.00
    Cabinet - Toppers
    Sparky Pinball
    £ 20.00
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside