when you hit the right target, it is tripping both the right target and left target number relays or just the left target one?

is the left rototarget value rollover switch with the BLK-RED and OR wires stuck closed?

does anything score 50 points correctly?

I don't have the buckaroo schem handy, but on cow poke score motor 1A switch is pulsing the 10 point relay, and score motor 2B is keeping the 50 point relay powered for 50 point scoring. If 2B opens before the last closure of 1A, then you only get 40 points.

electrically or the ball is just pushing the roto around? If you push the target with your finger, what happens?

5 points is like 50 points. A score motor 2B switch keeps the 5 point relay switch powered while 5 pulses are sent to the 1 point relay. Check the score motor 2B switch with YEL+BLK and RED+WH wires to make sure it opens well.

if someone took off score motor switch stacks, sometimes the "switch dog" falls out. It's possible to put it back in two positions .... see chart on schem to make sure the S vs L position slots are correct, or the switch timing will be wrong. See https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair#Gottlieb.C2.AE_Switch_Level_Nomenclature

had to sign up and wait to see the fb videos.

looks like the cow poke schematic is not close enough to come up with a simple reason for the symptoms ... I made a note to grab the buckaroo schematic next monday when I'm at the pacific pinball museum.

since the number relays are tripping as the roto spins, the implication is either the left or right target switch is shorted to something or the roto is miswired.

got pictures of the roto unit wiring (best you can from back far enough to see as much as possible) and the section of the schem showing the number relays and the spin relay?

score motor 3D wired together is probably what is causing multiple number relays to trip when the roto is spinning.

it looks like the roto spins when the I or K relays power UNLESS the score motor is not homed/stopped.

since you are missing the switch ... and more importantly the long blade the peg hits to lift the stack ... you're kinda stuck until you fix that. I'm also wondering if your score motor is correct as there's only one peg that could operate 3D. Maybe the score motor always needs to stop in the same place.

if nobody gets to it before, I'll take pics of the museum game and post them tuesday. Their buckaroo is in the public museum, so it should be working correctly.

neither the I or K relays should power when you hit a roto target, so you still have that issue. I guess I'd watch the I and K relays to see if either is powering when you push on a target.

the roto target pic you posted is not from buckaroo - it has different symbols.

the ring terminal attached to the single snowshoe wiper needs to connect to the BLK+RED wire coming from the right roto target switch. I forget how that connection is made ... I assume thru the shaft and a mounting stud?

below is how the factory did it. The ring terminal with the double black wire and black jumper to the coil is not touching the unit frame.

second pic is what your missing switch looks like. I'm pretty sure the long formed blade is part A-918. The switch is probably B-14648.

third pic is the top of the wiper board. The flexible copper wire soldered directly to the snowshoe wipers is factory. The connection just using the wiper sleeves isn't very reliable.

buckaroo roto connections.jpgbuckaroo score motor.jpgbuckaroo snowshoe wipers.jpg

you can make them if you know where/how to bend them.

below is a page from parts manual M that when printed on USA letter sized paper MAY be actual size for the blades. Compare to one you have.

I guess you'd want A-786 per the second pic.

gtb - motor switch blades (resized).pnggtb motor switch blades 2 (resized).jpg

switch types:
A - normally open
B - normally closed
C - make-break

see https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair#Normally_Open_.28N.O..29_Switch_aka_Form_A_Switch