(Topic ID: 292837)

Buccaneer plastic insert replacement


By BubbaK

10 days ago

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Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by BubbaK
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 10 days ago

I've got a Buccaneer where most of the plastic inserts are loose. I bought all new inserts for the game. I've sanded them flat and made waterslide decals for the inserts. I tested one and when I put it in the game, its way too white, almost fake looking. How do you do new inserts in an old game and make it look like it fits? I'm not repainting, or clearing the playfield, just replacing the inserts.

#2 10 days ago

Can you re-glue the loose ones? No cupping?

Folks either selectively replace them with aged spares from other Pinsiders (there was a request recently) OR replace with all new, so they match.

#3 10 days ago

Loose inserts are a common issue on this era Gottlieb. I picked up a pretty nice Ship Ahoy last year. I re-glued every single insert (originals). Many were just loosely rolling around on the playfield when I got it, the rest were pushed out with relative ease. No cupping to speak of though. A couple hours and some Titebond you'll have it back right as rain.

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#4 9 days ago

Thanks.. Mine have some cupping as well. Not horrible but if I'm fixing it I was going to try to make it as level as possible. I may look into repairing the inserts I have. I took one out and tried filling with clear coat and sanding it flat, but that turned into a bigger pita than I expected. I was concerned reusing the original ones for how loose fitting they are. Wasn't sure how long the glue would hold if it wasn't a real tight fit.

#5 9 days ago

>I've got a Buccaneer where most of the plastic inserts are loose. I bought all new inserts for the game. I've sanded them flat and made waterslide decals for the inserts.>

Why did you need to sand them flat... if they are new (?)

<< I tested one and when I put it in the game, its way too white, almost fake looking. >

So you mean they are basically not yellow enough like the old ones? If it's only when they are lit you could use yellow LEDs or add layer(s) of yellow cellophane filtering underneath, I've used filtering on one game with white LEDs to get some faded inserts to look correct again. If it's when they are unlit also, you're stuck with the color they are.

<<How do you do new inserts in an old game and make it look like it fits? I'm not repainting, or clearing the playfield, just replacing the inserts.>

So to make sure - you mean make them fit as per the color, or is it that the new ones seem like they are too small for the holes and loose too?

#6 9 days ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

>I've got a Buccaneer where most of the plastic inserts are loose. I bought all new inserts for the game. I've sanded them flat and made waterslide decals for the inserts.>
Why did you need to sand them flat... if they are new (?)
<< I tested one and when I put it in the game, its way too white, almost fake looking. >
So you mean they are basically not yellow enough like the old ones? If it's only when they are lit you could use yellow LEDs or add layer(s) of yellow cellophane filtering underneath, I've used filtering on one game with white LEDs to get some faded inserts to look correct again. If it's when they are unlit also, you're stuck with the color they are.
<<How do you do new inserts in an old game and make it look like it fits? I'm not repainting, or clearing the playfield, just replacing the inserts.>
So to make sure - you mean make them fit as per the color, or is it that the new ones seem like they are too small for the holes and loose too?

New inserts need to be sanded flat as they don't come perfectly flat. They are also bright white. I currently have warm comet LED's under it and when lit was way too white. I just ordered some frosted warm LED's to see if that tones it down a bit. Unlit, they don't look bad. Interesting thought about the cellophane.

As for fit, I'm referring to color. The one I tried fits the hole well, but its all about the color.

I'll try to get a pic in the next day or so of what I'm looking at. Being I've never done this before I may be over reacting as well.

#7 9 days ago

Yellow inserts might work too but you'd have to get a few and compare. Even warm whites it's tough to find ones that are going to look as yellow as a real lamp.

I still would think new inserts would be pretty freaking flat where you would not notice them affecting the ball at all. Perfectly flat? There are no inserts or playfields that are *perfectly* flat even when they are straight out of the factory. If I buy new ones and I can visually see it is cupped or something, forget it, I'd just uncup my old ones plus I get to keep the original artwork. And leveling them into the playfield is never going to be absolutely perfect either.

#8 9 days ago

You need to sand new inserts because they have die marks on them (usually a number).

You could test putting an insert in Rit dye to yellow it.

Wonder if you can gently heat the old inserts to flatten them.

Just read about guitar restorers soaking parts in turmeric to yellow them, paging vid1900

#9 9 days ago

So are you going to be putting something over the slide-on decals to protect them, like clearcoat or laquer or mylar or something? Maybe you can use a tinted coating, or pre-tint the coating before you spray it, or use tinted mylar/whatever to end up with that 'aged' color for the white inserts (?)

I've flattened some cupped Fast Draw inserts by heating and pressing flat again from the back with good success. I did a rather homemade job of it though, others here probably know all the tricks to doing it the best way.

#10 8 days ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

You need to sand new inserts because they have die marks on them (usually a number).
You could test putting an insert in Rit dye to yellow it.
Wonder if you can gently heat the old inserts to flatten them.
Just read about guitar restorers soaking parts in turmeric to yellow them, paging vid1900

Thanks for the reminder about the sanding.. I knew there was a reason.. I started this project about 6 months ago and got frustrated and put it aside.. I'm finally caught up on other games so time to finish this one up..

I didn't think about dye.. thats an interesting idea. Rit does have a color formula to match certain colors. Might be worth looking into.

I considered heating and flattening, but I've seen mixed reviews and stories. Cracking and re-cupping seemed to be fairly common.

Turmeric is interesting as well. I'll look into that also.

I did try to print a background color in the circles but what was on the computer screen isn't near the color of what printed. I think that was my frustration point after wasting 5 sheets of the waterslide paper.

I was planning on putting an automotive clear coat over the inserts before I installed them. I'm hoping it will be compatible with the acrylic coating that protects the decals after printing..

I wasn't into Pins when I was younger so I don't know... When the machines were new - were the inserts white or always off white? Maybe I'm over thinking this whole thing?

#11 8 days ago

I replaced inserts on my 1954 machine with gaudy white ones and never looked back! One of those things where you worry about a lot beforehand and then never actually notice it.

I airbrushed the artwork back onto the inserts, looks perfect.

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#12 8 days ago

>>I wasn't into Pins when I was younger so I don't know... When the machines were new - were the inserts white or always off white? Maybe I'm over thinking this whole thing?>>

As a kid I played lots of 70s games including Buccaneer when (or close to when) they were new but wouldn't trust whether the inserts were off-white back then or if it is simply my memories that have yellowed like old photographs Maybe they were white but they've yellowed with age along with the lacquer coating and the whites in the playfield ink, so now new white inserts stick out against all of that. Old inserts have that aged lacquer over them too, making them less white. I've got old games where the original white bumper caps are still whitey-white and the inserts aren't (but who knows if they were even made out of the exact same material.)
I have one brand new repro EM playfield I haven't installed yet - the white inserts are white but since all of the artwork is fresh and bright, the inserts look 'correct' to me, not overly white.

#13 8 days ago

dr_nybble .. Thanks.. Seeing that pic is what mine looked like when I put the one in. If you don't notice it, that eases my mind a bit.

frenchmarky - My short time memory is doing the same thing. I'm used to seeing it off white and the bright white looks out of place. I can see it working on a brand new paint job. I scrubbed the whites on this machine with alcohol and magic erasers.. its not getting anywhere near white so the bright white sticks out.

At the end of the day, its not a high dollar game. Ultimately, I want it to play well. If I could get a playfield protector I'd just glue the loose inserts back in and put a protector on. I haven't found anyone that makes one for this..

#14 7 days ago

So I played around with the inserts tonight.. Since I last played with this, I played around with the room lighting a bit.. Also, when I tried it originally, I didn't put the insert all the way down, so there was light showing through the sides. Tonight, I switched out one and pushed it all the way in. It didn't look near as bad. I think replacing them all will probably work. One thing I noticed about the decal I put on, the black isn't solid when its lit. I need to find a better printer or print method. Here are a few pics.

I guess the next question - After applying the decal and it dries, do I automotive clear coat it before installing or is the acrylic coating good enough?

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#15 7 days ago

You can see if your printer has a way of increasing the toner or ink density. You can also try to double up the decals.

This is why I airbrush instead!

#16 7 days ago

>>I guess the next question - After applying the decal and it dries, do I automotive clear coat it before installing or is the acrylic coating good enough?>>

I'm no expert on coatings but something thin and not real glossy like clearcoat would fit better with the look of the old playfield, if you do it. Plus if it's too thick you may end up needing to sand the bottom of the inserts a little shorter to be able to push them all the way in without them sticking up higher than the playfield even after they're bottomed out. In any case you'd want to assure you can indeed get them flush with the playfield (including sanding the bottoms since you are applying materials to the tops of them) before gluing them.

#17 7 days ago

dr_nybble - What kind of paint do you use for the airbrush? I bought some of the Creatix paints with the thought of doing some back glass touchups.. and my son has an airbrush... and my wife has a vinyl cutter. I could make stencils and paint them. What steps or procedures are involved in it? I've looked through Vids guide, but this is an area that I didn't get a lot of detail on.

frenchmarky - I thought about the depth and extra height. I was able to push in the new 4 pretty much flush without effort. I'm going to look underneath to see how much room is left, but I suspect there will be enough room. The waterslide decal is very thin and not talking about adding that much for the clearcoats.

#18 7 days ago

Check the Silhouette Cameo restorers club for lots on using a vinyl cutter for touch-ups.

#19 7 days ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Check the Silhouette Cameo restorers club for lots on using a vinyl cutter for touch-ups.

Very cool.. thanks.. I found the thread.. Didn't think to search

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