(Topic ID: 106110)

Buccaneer Help Multiple Issues

By Fuse

9 years ago


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  • 18 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by gdonovan
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 9 years ago

Hey Guys, down to a few last problems. Thanks for any help.

1. When rollover switch 1, 6 or 7 is activated the coil is noisy (need new coil?)

2. When rollover switch 2 is hit, the light goes out and lights 2 in the center as well as the same for number 3, and vice versa.

3. Same as problem number 2 except 6 and 7

4. Same as problem number 2 except 8 and 9

5. When spinner is hit the scoring just keeps going, have to turn off machine to stop. Or if I manually activate relay F or G the D relay (500) keeps going

Well thats it. Thanks for any suggestions.

#2 9 years ago
Quoted from Fuse:

1. When rollover switch 1, 6 or 7 is activated the coil is noisy (need new coil?)

Which coil is noisy?

Quoted from Fuse:

2. When rollover switch 2 is hit, the light goes out and lights 2 in the center as well as the same for number 3, and vice versa.
3. Same as problem number 2 except 6 and 7
4. Same as problem number 2 except 8 and 9

This is all correct behavior. The rollover numbers start lit and the ship's wheel numbers start unlit. The goal is to collect all 11 numbers and light them in the ship's wheel.

Quoted from Fuse:

5. When spinner is hit the scoring just keeps going, have to turn off machine to stop. Or if I manually activate relay F or G the D relay (500) keeps going

Does the score motor continue to run as well? When you say the D relay 'keeps going', is it pulsing, or is it locked on?

#3 9 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Which coil is noisy?

Not in front of it right now but I believe it's 1b, 6b, and 7b. Will confirm tonight.

This is all correct behavior. The rollover numbers start lit and the ship's wheel numbers start unlit. The goal is to collect all 11 numbers and light them in the ship's wheel.

Correct, but when you hit 2, it's like you hit 3 as well and vice versa. I realize I didn't write that right in the above post. So you hit 3 and the light goes out as well on 2. And both lights get lit in the middle where only 3 should of. Hope that helps.

Does the score motor continue to run as well? When you say the D relay 'keeps going', is it pulsing, or is it locked on?

Yes the score motor keeps going

#4 9 years ago

Is it set on 3-ball or 5-ball play?

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Is it set on 3-ball or 5-ball play?

3 ball. believe it doesnt matter but will confirm tonight.

#6 9 years ago

On 3-ball, the rollovers are 'ganged' together and score in pairs. So sounds like it's working OK.

#7 9 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

On 3-ball, the rollovers are 'ganged' together and score in pairs. So sounds like it's working OK.

Interesting. Will have to try 5 ball then. Just to make the game easier I suppose with less balls. Pisses me off I spent so much time on that last night!!
Thanks

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

On 3-ball, the rollovers are 'ganged' together and score in pairs. So sounds like it's working OK.

Although it's only the 3 pairs that are like that. Others score individually.

#9 9 years ago

The operator manual might have the description of the 3-ball vs. 5-ball differences (or on the score card). Not all the numbers are paired on 3-ball, IIRC.

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

The operator manual might have the description of the 3-ball vs. 5-ball differences (or on the score card). Not all the numbers are paired on 3-ball, IIRC.

Hey dirtFlipper, you were right!! Plays perfect on 5 ball, I guess it plays perfect on 3 ball too, just didn't know it. I also got the spinner figured out. The "bob" or weight needed adjusting below the playfield thats attached to the spinner.

So I think all that I'm left with is a few noisy coils when activated. I somewhat have it figured it. Attached is a picture for relay 1b. Where my finger is, if I "help" the relay by pressing in the same direction that the relay is pulling, the hum is gone. Same for the other ones, 6b and 7b. I've also noticed that when I activate other switches they don't need "help" and get there on there own. I'm pretty sure no other contacts are touching when I help out the relay that little bit. Do I have weak coils that just need replacing?IMG_1161.jpgIMG_1161.jpg

#11 9 years ago

Are you pressing down on the armature plate that you're touching as shown in the picture, or the one below it?

The one below it is the one that's actually pulled in by the coil. The one you're touching then just snaps down onto the reset bar, and isn't affected by the coil.

It could be that the point where those two armature plates engage is a bit gunked up, and could use some cleaning (and maybe a dab of SuperLube) to help the bottom plate get pulled in by the coil.

Also make sure the relay bank is seated square and fully into the brackets (loosen the wing nuts and make sure the bank is all the way in and not twisted).

And make sure the coil isn't staying active and that's why the plate is buzzing. The coil should just fire once to pull in the bottom armature plate and then turn off.

#12 9 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Are you pressing down on the armature plate that you're touching as shown in the picture, or the one below it?
The one below it is the one that's actually pulled in by the coil. The one you're touching then just snaps down onto the reset bar, and isn't affected by the coil.
It could be that the point where those two armature plates engage is a bit gunked up, and could use some cleaning (and maybe a dab of SuperLube) to help the bottom plate get pulled in by the coil.
Also make sure the relay bank is seated square and fully into the brackets (loosen the wing nuts and make sure the bank is all the way in and not twisted).
And make sure the coil isn't staying active and that's why the plate is buzzing. The coil should just fire once to pull in the bottom armature plate and then turn off.

It's the one below. Not the long reset bank. I'll double check for any obstructions. It is playable, just don't like the hum it makes when it goes over 1 of those 3 switches. Watched a YouTube tutorial and they talk about 3 and 5 ball differences where some targets are paired. Geesh!! I noticed in the tutorial that the spin and spot light lit up a lot. I've never had mine light. All new bulbs, not like that means much but I'll check. Also check for it if it awards the number if it's still lit, don't think it has. There is a jumper on the bottom of cabinet that says something about spin and spot. Have to Check that out. Hopefully something dumb like that

#13 9 years ago

Buccaneer has a liberal/conservative adjustment for spin and spot. However, in 3 ball mode,it is lit all the time until you complete the entire sequence and relay 12B trips.

Otherwise, in 5 ball mode, the position will determine how many or which of the 3 positions the score motor can sit at to light it. I think in the liberal setting (all the way over) it will light all the time in 5 ball mode also.

The Spin and Spot lamp has a 75 ohm 10 watt Ceramic resistor in line with it and I believe it is sized for a #47 lamp (not a #44). If the 47 is too bright, then use a 44. If the 44 is dim, use a 47. If it doesn't light, check for 75 ohms across the resistor. And, WHATEVER YOU DO, do not install a 44/47 equiv. LED in it as it will burn up (getting 25VAC). To use an LED, you would have to replace the ceramic resistor with something like 1000 ohms (based on 20ma LED current draw).

#14 9 years ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

Buccaneer has a liberal/conservative adjustment for spin and spot. However, in 3 ball mode,it is lit all the time until you complete the entire sequence and relay 12B trips.
Otherwise, in 5 ball mode, the position will determine how many or which of the 3 positions the score motor can sit at to light it. I think in the liberal setting (all the way over) it will light all the time in 5 ball mode also.
The Spin and Spot lamp has a 75 ohm 10 watt Ceramic resistor in line with it and I believe it is sized for a #47 lamp (not a #44). If the 47 is too bright, then use a 44. If the 44 is dim, use a 47. If it doesn't light, check for 75 ohms across the resistor. And, WHATEVER YOU DO, do not install a 44/47 equiv. LED in it as it will burn up .

That's some good info. I always wondered how you got it to light. Thanks.

#15 9 years ago

Hey guys, just want to say thanks for your help. Especially DirtFlipper for all his help with my other problems with this game. One last intermittent issue I had was that someone was soldering and some solder got between 2 contacts in my "g" relay and would result in the scoring to keep accumulating when the spinner was hit. Check it out. Thanks a lot guys!IMG_0486-842.jpgIMG_0486-842.jpg

#16 9 years ago

Fire Lovie Smith.

#17 9 years ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

The Spin and Spot lamp has a 75 ohm 10 watt Ceramic resistor in line with it and I believe it is sized for a #47 lamp (not a #44).

The 75ohm, 10W resistor is sized for a #44 bulb (which are 6.3V, 0.25Amp). It's on the 25V circuit, so 25V-6.3V = 18.7V across the bulb if no added resistance. Ohm's law says V=IR, or V/I=R, so 18.7V/0.25Amp = 74.hms needed. Thus the resistor. (The 10Watts is the power rating, and needs to be able to handle the 18.7V*0.25Amps, or ~5Watts, so 10W is good enough.)

One could use #47s if the resistors were replaced with 125 Ohm ones (#47s are 6.3V at 0.15Amp).

(The Right and Left Special lights also have these resistors in series with them.)

2 years later
#18 6 years ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

Buccaneer has a liberal/conservative adjustment for spin and spot. However, in 3 ball mode,it is lit all the time until you complete the entire sequence and relay 12B trips.
Otherwise, in 5 ball mode, the position will determine how many or which of the 3 positions the score motor can sit at to light it. I think in the liberal setting (all the way over) it will light all the time in 5 ball mode also.
The Spin and Spot lamp has a 75 ohm 10 watt Ceramic resistor in line with it and I believe it is sized for a #47 lamp (not a #44). If the 47 is too bright, then use a 44. If the 44 is dim, use a 47. If it doesn't light, check for 75 ohms across the resistor. And, WHATEVER YOU DO, do not install a 44/47 equiv. LED in it as it will burn up (getting 25VAC). To use an LED, you would have to replace the ceramic resistor with something like 1000 ohms (based on 20ma LED current draw).

Just an update to this narco thread =)

I have a Ship Ahoy that I had replaced some bulbs with out of the box 44's and it of course the Spin and Spot lasted a day since it was running higher voltage. Then I installed a red LED and it last about 2 minutes before frying! I did some research which lead me to this this thread.

Busting out the digital voltmeter with the correct 47 bulb installed 7.5 volts was measured, clearly over the bulbs 6 volt rating. I checked the resistance of the resistor and it was 75 ohms. So I ordered a pack of 125 ohm ceramic 10 watt resistors and installed one tonight.

I almost ordered a 100 ohm too and wish I did, but lets move along..

With the 125 ohm resistor installed with the 47 bulb I now have 3.9 volts indicated. With a 44 bulb installed, back up to 7.5 volts.

I'm going to leave well enough alone and keep the 47 bulb in running at 3.9 volts. It is bright enough to see clearly, though looks a touch dark after the "oh my god I'm going to burn at any second!" bulbs running at 7.5 volts.

100 ohm with a 47 bulb would be just about right I reckon.

Hope this has been of some help.

Edit- FYI the two Wow lamps are also at 7.5 volts measured but since they don't turn on as much as the Spin and Spot light I left them alone.

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