(Topic ID: 159422)

Bubba Like Shiny Silver Ball!! => Cactus Canyon Club

By AJB4

7 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 205 posts
  • 54 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 34 days ago by aeneas
  • Topic is favorited by 40 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider nepi23.
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#23 6 years ago

I am planning on upgrading my CC to a CCC.

I've seen solutions in the backbox, where the amplifier, danesi board and the computer have been attached to a metal plate. Those apparently are custom made and not a universal fit for different computers etc?

I have not ordered the danesi board as my friend makes something similar for me. Meanwhile my plan is that I will take the power from regular house power outlets. Then later I get a friend over to power the computer, amplifier and display from the pinball. I wonder what is the best location for the computer etc. - I guess it would work now so that if I manage to attach the equipment to backbox, I would leave the backglass away, so that I can manually power up and down the computer?

I bought a tiny computer "beebox" and I am wondering which OS I should install. The guide on pinside gives specific info on what to do with a Win7 install, but is there a reason not to use Win10?

Also, I had a look at the beebox and it seems I cannot find the EuP-option where the danesi-board faq makes a reference to - is there other suitable power options in the computer to ensure the shutdown and power-up of the computer?

Thanks for any info!

2 months later
#47 6 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Has someone also the issue that the flippers feel a bit weak, and so the mainramp is hard to hit?

I did a flipper rebuild and now it rocks again.

2 years later
#80 3 years ago

Anyone bought the "Cactus Canyon - CUSTOM BLACK MIRROR Gun Handle Set" from Pinball Decals? Can you please take a photo and show how those gun handles look?

You can find the gun handles on this webpage: https://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/CC_Page.html#

1 month later
#92 3 years ago

Hi!

I have CCC running on Windows7. For some reason, when I boot the pin up, many times the computer does not recognize the display correctly and starts the screen with a wrong resolution in such manner that the letters are way too big and only a partial screen is visible. It almost looks like only 1/4 of the screen is displayed. I then reboot the machine and at some point it starts correctly.

I began to have the problem when I added bluetooth-dongle to the headphone out so that the headphone out is now splitted to output audio to bluetooth dongle and the amplifier.

I had set originally the correct display resolution. The other thing that might cause problems that I have the pin plugged in electricity only when I play it and last time when I had the problems, I noticed that the high scores were emptied.

Anybody with a similar problem and how to fix it?

Also: did anybody compile CCC for Raspberry Pi with colored graphics in the end? If so, please PM me!

Thanks!

3 weeks later
#97 3 years ago
Quoted from Mik-ReadingUK:

Has anyone put together a topper? I've put a cheap LED cactus on mine which helps it stand out in the front row at my club, but I'd be interested in ideas for something more impressive, such as a diarama with saloon/sheriff's office/whatever. Or maybe a stagecoach and horses...mike.
[quoted image]

I am thinking about modding the lamp part away and using this as a topper:
ebay.com link: Old West Triple Six Shooter Revolver Table Lamp

#98 3 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Hi!
I have CCC running on Windows7. For some reason, when I boot the pin up, many times the computer does not recognize the display correctly and starts the screen with a wrong resolution in such manner that the letters are way too big and only a partial screen is visible. It almost looks like only 1/4 of the screen is displayed. I then reboot the machine and at some point it starts correctly.
I began to have the problem when I added bluetooth-dongle to the headphone out so that the headphone out is now splitted to output audio to bluetooth dongle and the amplifier.
I had set originally the correct display resolution. The other thing that might cause problems that I have the pin plugged in electricity only when I play it and last time when I had the problems, I noticed that the high scores were emptied.
Anybody with a similar problem and how to fix it?
Thanks!

Here's a picture of the problem with resolution, I do not know why the PC cannot remember the correct setting.

Display (resized).jpgDisplay (resized).jpg
#99 3 years ago

This seems to be my 3rd post in a row

Owners of CC that have powdercoated your pin, could you please post pictures? I am trying to get some inspiration to update the outlook of my CC. Chrome would be a good choice, but its a bit too dear for me, so I am thinking about powdercoating - I just do not have a clue of which color to use. I would not want to wait until CGC releases CCR LE and see what they have deemed as best color for it

Thanks!

8 months later
#113 2 years ago

Hi!

I have a little problem with my CCC.
In switch test
- switch 13 "start button" works ok
- switch 14 "plumb bob tilt" works on occasion, when the tilt touches the rim - seems like it has to be a specific spot on the metallic rim around the tilt
- switch 15 "mine entrance" works well and seems to activate when the ball is nearing the mine (what kind of switch is there in use, apparently not an opto)
- switch 16 "left outlane" does not work
- switch 17 "right return lane" does not work
- switch 18 "shooter lane" does not work

I am a newbie in error hunting/correcting. What should I check - is it something wrong here between switches 15 and 16?

Attached is a pic of the switch matrix.

Thanks for any help!

Switches (resized).jpgSwitches (resized).jpg

2 months later
#115 2 years ago
Quoted from Mik-ReadingUK:

Possible problem is lack of continuity for the green/brown switch column wire. Follow it through from the mine entrance to the left outlane (mine entrance is a reed switch on a flying lead so check the wires going in to the plug.

It is strange, but this row "sprung to life" for some reason and I have not experienced problems with it since. I remember though that it did it sometime before as well and cured also all of a sudden.

However, now another row has problems.

In row 4, switch 41-46 do not work, 47 seems to work.

I noticed a bad looking solder to the other opto on switch 42, but it should not affect the switch in 41 I think?

I tried reinserting connector J206 to the P-roc board, but it did not help.

What should I look for to fix the problem? This might be above my skill-level, so I may have to ask for some outside local help, but I would like to try to fix it myself first.

EDIT: It seems that it was switch 47 that was causing problems. There is a connector that goes to the switch. When I touched the connector by hand, the switch test started registering. I just removed and reinserted the connector and now the row of switches is working again...

240667005_1779335618941630_5798294933996764800_n (resized).jpg240667005_1779335618941630_5798294933996764800_n (resized).jpg

#116 2 years ago

Any tips on how to adjust the bad guy targets? Should they be on the level with the playfield or little lower?

I notice that in my game the ball now jumps a bit at the bad guy target, when its in the low position. Could be also that the cliffy that I put there makes the ball jump a bit.

2 months later
#119 2 years ago

I need to do a sanity check after looking at the remake videos: in the original CC the ball does not move along the railroad track, right? [Or do I have some malfunction in my original CC]

Never mind - it does move around the tracks after all. I need to check if my mind if playing tricks on me or is there a problem with my game.

1 week later
#123 2 years ago

I like what CGC is doing very much and was considering selling my original CCC and buying a CCR, but came to the conclusion that it would be too much hassle and the upgrade would not mean that much visually for me either as my game is restored, with chrome trim and custom painted gun handles and also I think I would miss CCC and its tribute modes, cowboys/aliens -mode etc. I have the other remakes with toppers, so it was a difficult choice for me, but it was made easier also cause the LE-version is non-existent for regular buyers.

I do would like to have the bigger screen and the topper. Wish someone would know how to implement the topper to work with CCC and one would be able to buy some conversion kit for CCC then. I will keep my eye out on the comings mods too - railroad track could be nice for my game as well.

3 months later
#145 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

aeneas, thanks for the mods. Got them painted and installed today. Really enjoying the new look.
[quoted image]

Wow, looks very nice! I am no good at painting myself, so its no use for me to buy the mods, but I do admire a good thing when it comes together this nicely!

2 weeks later
#146 2 years ago

I needed to resurrect this thread. I have to admit, it took some time to dig it up as there are so many cactus canyon remake threads now.

Anyway, my question relates to the gold mine. For some reason, it seems to stay in the "low position" in my game and hardly ever rises. I did a switch test and it seems to register ball hits, but its just not moving much in the game. I do have seen it go totally up and down in a game on occasion, but I think it should be moving much more - perhaps so that when you hit it with a ball, it rises a notch or so?

EDIT: I just unplugged and plugged in the two connectors that go into the reed switch below playfield and now the mine seems to raise up on more occasions.
However, one question more: when the mine is in its lowest position, should one be able to shoot the ball into the mine? I can do it with my game, so maybe I have installed the wooden "mine entrance" piece a bit too high up - or maybe its just that way and one can shoot a ball in if one is lucky, even when the mine is in the lowest position?

1 month later
#149 2 years ago

Anyone tried, would this railroad mod fit to classic CC? The website does tell that it is for CCR only, but it might be that they haven't had a chance to try to install it to a classic CC.

https://www.ulekstore.com/Railroad_Train_Track_MOD_for_Cactus_Canyon_Remake_p/cgc_ttmod.htm

#151 2 years ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

I think it would. They just probably hadn't given it a try. Why don't you purchase and let us know.
I just installed a CGC topper for my MM original machine. It worked out great, just had to do a few modifications to make it fit, turned out great.
[quoted image]

Maybe I will ask from Ulekstore if they want to give me one for free if I act as a guinea pig

I am receiving the CGC CCR topper for my CCC as well - how well did you manage to get the CGC MM topper integrated with the game? Do you have any similar plans for the CGC CCR topper?

#153 2 years ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

I have been working with Pinsider stumblor to create a plugin play board to do exactly that. He is close to finishing it. You can view some of the process here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stumblor-lollypops-full-color-reactive-led-pop-bumper-rings/page/2
Also he just stated this in the MM thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-medieval-madness-owners-club-the-door-is-open-cmon-in?tu=stumblor

Wow! Great! I will start to follow your progress!

There is now also the Pinshakers' Plug and Play shaker available: http://www.pinshakers.com/
I wonder, would it work with p-roc and CCC as well? Well, this is the wrong thread to ask that, but in case anyone knows the answer, feel free to answer

#156 2 years ago
Quoted from aeneas:

Original CC's don't have holes in the metal rail so you'd have to drill your own or use something like double sided tape to attach it.
Dimensions wise I think it'll fit.

Thanks for the info!

2 weeks later
#161 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

I believe CC has 2 MRS' in the mine entrance position - you need to be sure both are working - they were put there together to cover a greater area of registration - only 1 may be working and thus the ball won't be as detected as often...just ensure both are working...if not - then one may have come loose and is not picking up the ball as it rests down too far - so be sure to press both firmly up into the pocket...
Matt

I think this is exactly the problem with the Mine Entrance switch 15 that I am having. It seems that it does not register the ball, but instead, if I put my magnetic tool over the area, the switch 15 registers!

I also went into the mine test in my CCC and it seems that switch 15 is active all time time (or inactive, I do not know what the "cross" signs in the test. There is a cross over switch 15 all the time).

But the switches under the playfield do not seem to move... I think they are called "Magnetic reed switches". Should I remove them with a tool and try to re-install or what is the recommended procedure to get them to work? Should I just take some pliers and pull the switches out or how should one go about doing it in case replacing them is necessary? It seems that there is some grey plastic of sort around the reed switches (?), should it be removed as well?

Also, might it be that I am using wrong balls - they were called "oohshiny" by the code name, when I bought them.

Thanks for any help on how to fix this!
Reef (resized).jpgReef (resized).jpg

MineTest (resized).jpgMineTest (resized).jpg
#163 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Well....so...the MRS are installed very simply....you'll notice 2 rubber nuts on each end of the MRS...that's what they are, simply a small piece of rubber tubing that pushes onto a small plastic post....you merely pull off with a small needle nose...and the MRS will fall out...you'll want to remove both MRS' and use a pinball to test each one to see if they are registering - normal state is open...from your test menu - you have a closure - NOW, I believe both of those are tied together - so only one may be closed - you'll want to figure out which one..
From your picture - I am highly suspicious of the metal weldment - it would appears that 'flap' is sitting out pretty far and may be causing the MRS closest to it to register falsely.....be on the lookout for that....you may be able to remedy that by simply rotating the MRS 180degrees...but you may find that weldment is the problem and you have to push that flap back in some (not much) for the MRS to not register....
Matt
M&M Creations

Thanks for the excellent tips! I might need to bend the metal flap!
I tested the game with other balls and they do not register any better.
I made some reboots and after one reboot the switch 15 registered well with the original balls, but it lost the ability after a new reboot. The switch 15 registered all the time to a magnet tool just fine though.
Might there be some bad connection somewhere, since the switch started to register just fine on one reboot? I wonder, if there is some bigger connector somewhere that I should try to reseat.

Had a look at Robert Winter's CC and indeed the metal flap seems to be protruding too far in my game: http://www.robertwinter.com/pinball/restorations/cc/sold2/under_playfield.jpg

#165 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Best thing to do - is like I said - remove the MRS' from their positions (its very simple you can't mess it up) - and test them with a ball - NOT a magnetic tool - you want something that is ferritic to trigger the MRS, not something that is magnetic itself....this will also allow you to see if the flap is causing the switch to trigger too because if the current state is the MRS is triggered - then simply remove it and see if it clears (it likely will) then you know to simply rotate the MRS when you put it back or you have to bend the flap back...
These MRS' will last a very long time (they rarely fail) - but this type of behavior is likely due to interference of some kind...not a re-seated connection...
Matt

Thanks! I will do just that! When I compare the picture under the playfield of my game to Robert Winter's game, it indeed seems that the upper reed switch in the picture of my game should be turned 180 degrees.

#166 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Best thing to do - is like I said - remove the MRS' from their positions (its very simple you can't mess it up) - and test them with a ball - NOT a magnetic tool - you want something that is ferritic to trigger the MRS, not something that is magnetic itself....this will also allow you to see if the flap is causing the switch to trigger too because if the current state is the MRS is triggered - then simply remove it and see if it clears (it likely will) then you know to simply rotate the MRS when you put it back or you have to bend the flap back...
These MRS' will last a very long time (they rarely fail) - but this type of behavior is likely due to interference of some kind...not a re-seated connection...
Matt

Thank you, I turned the other MRS and bent the flap - now it seems to work properly again.

3 weeks later
#175 1 year ago

It seems that mods for CCR are popping up. It would be great if people on this thread could comment on the applicability of a CCR mods to a regular CC, so one would know what mods are suitable. I guess its a problem for the modders to verify the suitability, since original CC is difficult to come by and therefore for them to try their mods on it.

5 months later
#195 1 year ago

Huge thanks for trying out the MezelMods, great info!

2 weeks later
#200 1 year ago

I have the strangest problem that I have created for myself with my CCC.

When I carry pins up- or downstairs, I have to do it in three parts: backbox, playfield and cabinet each separately. I always rewire the game then, once I get all the parts to the same floor. Usually everything works just fine, but this time I did something that obviously went wrong, since when I now boot up the game, the mine keeps moving up and down constantly and does not stop!

I have reseated the connectors without any luck. Further it seems that all the optos in the game are dead.

If any of you wizards would be able to pinpoint the probable connector that I must have misplaced or some other thing to check, it would be great! Thanks for any tips!

#202 1 year ago
Quoted from aeneas:

Check if all the leds on the powerdriver board are on ?
Can you enter the menu, does it give an error there ?

Thanks for chiming in! Yes, all five leds are on. I can enter the menu and on the switch test none of the optos seem to register.
Also when entering the test menu, the mine stops and in mine test I can use -/+ on the coin door and the mine moves ok.
It shows switch 41 as closed.

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