(Topic ID: 159422)

Bubba Like Shiny Silver Ball!! => Cactus Canyon Club

By AJB4

6 years ago


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  • 180 posts
  • 49 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 41 days ago by Screwloose
  • Topic is favorited by 35 Pinsiders

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There are 180 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.
#151 87 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

I think it would. They just probably hadn't given it a try. Why don't you purchase and let us know.
I just installed a CGC topper for my MM original machine. It worked out great, just had to do a few modifications to make it fit, turned out great.
[quoted image]

Maybe I will ask from Ulekstore if they want to give me one for free if I act as a guinea pig

I am receiving the CGC CCR topper for my CCC as well - how well did you manage to get the CGC MM topper integrated with the game? Do you have any similar plans for the CGC CCR topper?

#152 87 days ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Maybe I will ask from Ulekstore if they want to give me one for free if I act as a guinea pig
I am receiving the CGC CCR topper for my CCC as well - how well did you manage to get the CGC MM topper integrated with the game? Do you have any similar plans for the CGC CCR topper?

I have been working with Pinsider stumblor to create a plugin play board to do exactly that. He is close to finishing it. You can view some of the process here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stumblor-lollypops-full-color-reactive-led-pop-bumper-rings/page/2
Also he just stated this in the MM thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-medieval-madness-owners-club-the-door-is-open-cmon-in?tu=stumblor

#153 87 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

I have been working with Pinsider stumblor to create a plugin play board to do exactly that. He is close to finishing it. You can view some of the process here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stumblor-lollypops-full-color-reactive-led-pop-bumper-rings/page/2
Also he just stated this in the MM thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-medieval-madness-owners-club-the-door-is-open-cmon-in?tu=stumblor

Wow! Great! I will start to follow your progress!

There is now also the Pinshakers' Plug and Play shaker available: http://www.pinshakers.com/
I wonder, would it work with p-roc and CCC as well? Well, this is the wrong thread to ask that, but in case anyone knows the answer, feel free to answer

#154 86 days ago

Just finished modifying a train track that I purchased for The Walking Dead machine to fit into my CC original. Made a number of cuts, drilled holes, JB weld some areas between tracks for installation and painted some. Turned out great.

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#155 85 days ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Anyone tried, would this railroad mod fit to classic CC? The website does tell that it is for CCR only, but it might be that they haven't had a chance to try to install it to a classic CC.
https://www.ulekstore.com/Railroad_Train_Track_MOD_for_Cactus_Canyon_Remake_p/cgc_ttmod.htm

Original CC's don't have holes in the metal rail so you'd have to drill your own or use something like double sided tape to attach it.
Dimensions wise I think it'll fit.

#156 85 days ago
Quoted from aeneas:

Original CC's don't have holes in the metal rail so you'd have to drill your own or use something like double sided tape to attach it.
Dimensions wise I think it'll fit.

Thanks for the info!

#157 84 days ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Anyone tried, would this railroad mod fit to classic CC? The website does tell that it is for CCR only, but it might be that they haven't had a chance to try to install it to a classic CC.
https://www.ulekstore.com/Railroad_Train_Track_MOD_for_Cactus_Canyon_Remake_p/cgc_ttmod.htm

Hello and thank you for the interest in our Train Track mod. We've had several ppl asking if our mod would fit on an original CC or not... and you're correct... we don't have access to one so we're not 100% positive that it will or won't. With that being said, if anyone would be willing to look underneath their metal rail and see if there are 3 screws/bolts on the underside (1 on the left, 1 in the middle and 1 on the right) and/or could take a few pictures - that would help out tremendously. We also offered a few customers discounts on the track to see if it'll fit or not... but they are both overseas and might take awhile for them to receive it. So if anyone in the States would be interested in a discount on the mod and would be willing to take a few pictures, give us feedback on the fit, etc... please contact us at [email protected]

Thank you in advance and hope to have an answer for everyone within the next couple of days.

-David

#158 84 days ago
Quoted from ULEKstore:

Hello and thank you for the interest in our Train Track mod. We've had several ppl asking if our mod would fit on an original CC or not... and you're correct... we don't have access to one so we're not 100% positive that it will or won't. With that being said, if anyone would be willing to look underneath their metal rail and see if there are 3 screws/bolts on the underside (1 on the left, 1 in the middle and 1 on the right) and/or could take a few pictures - that would help out tremendously. We also offered a few customers discounts on the track to see if it'll fit or not... but they are both overseas and might take awhile for them to receive it. So if anyone in the States would be interested in a discount on the mod and would be willing to take a few pictures, give us feedback on the fit, etc... please contact us at [email protected]
Thank you in advance and hope to have an answer for everyone within the next couple of days.
-David

Hi David,
The metal track that the train glides on and where you would install/attach the tracks to has no holes on an orginal CC, I do see them on a remake. I know this as I have had two CC and still own one that I just installed/modified a TWD tracks on my CC. See just above posts.

I drilled holes through the middle and right support areas and did a metal attachment bracket for the left support as the tracks did not fit to that support area because the ramp plastic was in the way. Maybe the ramp has been modified for the tracks to fit further on a remake.

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#159 83 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Hi David,
The metal track that the train glides on and where you would install/attach the tracks to has no holes on an orginal CC, I do see them on a remake. I know this as I have had two CC and still own one that I just installed/modified a TWD tracks on my CC. See just above posts.
I drilled holes through the middle and right support areas and did a metal attachment bracket for the left support as the tracks did not fit to that support area because the ramp plastic was in the way. Maybe the ramp has been modified for the tracks to fit further on a remake. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you.

#160 82 days ago

Having a bit of fun with an ultra-wide LCD panel I acquired recently - My GIMP skills are beginner level but I managed to put Polly on the screen in the extra space (This is a 5x1 panel and DMD frames are 4x1). I can't figure out how to upscale the dots though, PYgame is a bit confusing to my old grey cells... The LCD came with a CGC metal speaker panel and I have some Pyle Gear speakers on order.

polly (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#161 64 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

I believe CC has 2 MRS' in the mine entrance position - you need to be sure both are working - they were put there together to cover a greater area of registration - only 1 may be working and thus the ball won't be as detected as often...just ensure both are working...if not - then one may have come loose and is not picking up the ball as it rests down too far - so be sure to press both firmly up into the pocket...
Matt

I think this is exactly the problem with the Mine Entrance switch 15 that I am having. It seems that it does not register the ball, but instead, if I put my magnetic tool over the area, the switch 15 registers!

I also went into the mine test in my CCC and it seems that switch 15 is active all time time (or inactive, I do not know what the "cross" signs in the test. There is a cross over switch 15 all the time).

But the switches under the playfield do not seem to move... I think they are called "Magnetic reed switches". Should I remove them with a tool and try to re-install or what is the recommended procedure to get them to work? Should I just take some pliers and pull the switches out or how should one go about doing it in case replacing them is necessary? It seems that there is some grey plastic of sort around the reed switches (?), should it be removed as well?

Also, might it be that I am using wrong balls - they were called "oohshiny" by the code name, when I bought them.

Thanks for any help on how to fix this!
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#162 64 days ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I think this is exactly the problem with the Mine Entrance switch 15 that I am having. It seems that it does not register the ball, but instead, if I put my magnetic tool over the area, the switch 15 registers!
I also went into the mine test in my CCC and it seems that switch 15 is active all time time (or inactive, I do not know what the "cross" signs in the test. There is a cross over switch 15 all the time).
But the switches under the playfield do not seem to move... I think they are called "Magnetic reed switches". Should I remove them with a tool and try to re-install or what is the recommended procedure to get them to work? Should I just take some pliers and pull the switches out or how should one go about doing it in case replacing them is necessary? It seems that there is some grey plastic of sort around the reed switches (?), should it be removed as well?
Also, might it be that I am using wrong balls - they were called "oohshiny" by the code name, when I bought them.
Thanks for any help on how to fix this!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Well....so...the MRS are installed very simply....you'll notice 2 rubber nuts on each end of the MRS...that's what they are, simply a small piece of rubber tubing that pushes onto a small plastic post....you merely pull off with a small needle nose...and the MRS will fall out...you'll want to remove both MRS' and use a pinball to test each one to see if they are registering - normal state is open...from your test menu - you have a closure - NOW, I believe both of those are tied together - so only one may be closed - you'll want to figure out which one..

From your picture - I am highly suspicious of the metal weldment - it would appears that 'flap' is sitting out pretty far and may be causing the MRS closest to it to register falsely.....be on the lookout for that....you may be able to remedy that by simply rotating the MRS 180degrees...but you may find that weldment is the problem and you have to push that flap back in some (not much) for the MRS to not register....

Matt
M&M Creations

#163 64 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Well....so...the MRS are installed very simply....you'll notice 2 rubber nuts on each end of the MRS...that's what they are, simply a small piece of rubber tubing that pushes onto a small plastic post....you merely pull off with a small needle nose...and the MRS will fall out...you'll want to remove both MRS' and use a pinball to test each one to see if they are registering - normal state is open...from your test menu - you have a closure - NOW, I believe both of those are tied together - so only one may be closed - you'll want to figure out which one..
From your picture - I am highly suspicious of the metal weldment - it would appears that 'flap' is sitting out pretty far and may be causing the MRS closest to it to register falsely.....be on the lookout for that....you may be able to remedy that by simply rotating the MRS 180degrees...but you may find that weldment is the problem and you have to push that flap back in some (not much) for the MRS to not register....
Matt
M&M Creations

Thanks for the excellent tips! I might need to bend the metal flap!
I tested the game with other balls and they do not register any better.
I made some reboots and after one reboot the switch 15 registered well with the original balls, but it lost the ability after a new reboot. The switch 15 registered all the time to a magnet tool just fine though.
Might there be some bad connection somewhere, since the switch started to register just fine on one reboot? I wonder, if there is some bigger connector somewhere that I should try to reseat.

Had a look at Robert Winter's CC and indeed the metal flap seems to be protruding too far in my game: http://www.robertwinter.com/pinball/restorations/cc/sold2/under_playfield.jpg

#164 64 days ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Thanks for the excellent tips! I might need to bend the metal flap!
I tested the game with other balls and they do not register any better.
I made some reboots and after one reboot the switch 15 registered well with the original balls, but it lost the ability after a new reboot. The switch 15 registered all the time to a magnet tool just fine though.
Might there be some bad connection somewhere, since the switch started to register just fine on one reboot? I wonder, if there is some bigger connector somewhere that I should try to reseat.
Had a look at Robert Winter's CC and indeed the metal flap seems to be protruding too far in my game: http://www.robertwinter.com/pinball/restorations/cc/sold2/under_playfield.jpg

Best thing to do - is like I said - remove the MRS' from their positions (its very simple you can't mess it up) - and test them with a ball - NOT a magnetic tool - you want something that is ferritic to trigger the MRS, not something that is magnetic itself....this will also allow you to see if the flap is causing the switch to trigger too because if the current state is the MRS is triggered - then simply remove it and see if it clears (it likely will) then you know to simply rotate the MRS when you put it back or you have to bend the flap back...

These MRS' will last a very long time (they rarely fail) - but this type of behavior is likely due to interference of some kind...not a re-seated connection...

Matt

#165 64 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Best thing to do - is like I said - remove the MRS' from their positions (its very simple you can't mess it up) - and test them with a ball - NOT a magnetic tool - you want something that is ferritic to trigger the MRS, not something that is magnetic itself....this will also allow you to see if the flap is causing the switch to trigger too because if the current state is the MRS is triggered - then simply remove it and see if it clears (it likely will) then you know to simply rotate the MRS when you put it back or you have to bend the flap back...
These MRS' will last a very long time (they rarely fail) - but this type of behavior is likely due to interference of some kind...not a re-seated connection...
Matt

Thanks! I will do just that! When I compare the picture under the playfield of my game to Robert Winter's game, it indeed seems that the upper reed switch in the picture of my game should be turned 180 degrees.

#166 63 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Best thing to do - is like I said - remove the MRS' from their positions (its very simple you can't mess it up) - and test them with a ball - NOT a magnetic tool - you want something that is ferritic to trigger the MRS, not something that is magnetic itself....this will also allow you to see if the flap is causing the switch to trigger too because if the current state is the MRS is triggered - then simply remove it and see if it clears (it likely will) then you know to simply rotate the MRS when you put it back or you have to bend the flap back...
These MRS' will last a very long time (they rarely fail) - but this type of behavior is likely due to interference of some kind...not a re-seated connection...
Matt

Thank you, I turned the other MRS and bent the flap - now it seems to work properly again.

#167 63 days ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Thank you, I turned the other MRS and bent the flap - now it seems to work properly again.

Good deal - as expected....we know our MRS'! : )

Matt
M&M Creations

#168 61 days ago

Hello, I'm having an issue when the ball hits Bart.

The ball doesn't come out reliably. I tried swapping the coil with a new one, but that didn't help.

I thought of using a coil that is a bit more powerful. Do you have any recommendations?

#169 61 days ago
Quoted from all_pinball:

Hello, I'm having an issue when the ball hits Bart.
The ball doesn't come out reliably. I tried swapping the coil with a new one, but that didn't help.
I thought of using a coil that is a bit more powerful. Do you have any recommendations?

You need to examine the mech and figure out the issue rather than forcing it.
Are there missing/loose screws on the coil bracket or any unusual wear or bent edges?
Check the wires are complete ie. not partially broken inside the insulation or the crimped connectors are loose.
If the mech is moving off the playfield that will absorb some of the energy - Can you tighten all the fixing screws properly?
If not, glue cocktail sticks in the holes and try again.
Is there debris eg. a broken rubber or anything blocking the exit?

#170 60 days ago
Quoted from Mik-ReadingUK:

You need to examine the mech and figure out the issue rather than forcing it.
Are there missing/loose screws on the coil bracket or any unusual wear or bent edges?
Check the wires are complete ie. not partially broken inside the insulation or the crimped connectors are loose.
If the mech is moving off the playfield that will absorb some of the energy - Can you tighten all the fixing screws properly?
If not, glue cocktail sticks in the holes and try again.
Is there debris eg. a broken rubber or anything blocking the exit?

I restored the machine completly, took everything apart, cleaned it and put it back together. It already didn't work before.

#171 60 days ago
Quoted from all_pinball:

I restored the machine completly, took everything apart, cleaned it and put it back together. It already didn't work before.

Maybe compare it with the mine popper, try swapping drive or coil and check it still works, otherwise I'm out of ideas

#172 60 days ago
Quoted from Mik-ReadingUK:

Maybe compare it with the mine popper, try swapping drive or coil and check it still works, otherwise I'm out of ideas

thanks, I'll try it out.

#173 60 days ago

A couple folks reached out to me to see if I was doing my Start Buttons or Coin Reject Buttons for the remake, so I looked back at the original game too. I don't think I'll be doing a Start button -- on older games, with smaller, recessed start buttons, my replacement start buttons cover up the counterbore and step you up to a larger modern size button. However, since there's artwork specifically placed around the counterbore, I don't want to cover any of that up. I might eventually try one just to see how it looks (might be fine after all) but not yet.

In the meantime though I just had some fun with the coin reject buttons! I love the cactus on the side of the backbox wearing a sheriff badge, that just cracked me up -- so I decided to use that for inspiration, see below.

Link to shop listing: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/06821-3d-coin-reject-buttons-cactus-canyon-original-or-remake

CactCanCoins2 (resized).jpg
#174 55 days ago
Quoted from Mik-ReadingUK:

Maybe compare it with the mine popper, try swapping drive or coil and check it still works, otherwise I'm out of ideas

I tried it out and it works with the mine popper coil. The ball only comes out too fast and hits the ramp, I'll try to find a coil that is not as powerful.

2 weeks later
#175 42 days ago

It seems that mods for CCR are popping up. It would be great if people on this thread could comment on the applicability of a CCR mods to a regular CC, so one would know what mods are suitable. I guess its a problem for the modders to verify the suitability, since original CC is difficult to come by and therefore for them to try their mods on it.

#176 41 days ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

It seems that mods for CCR are popping up. It would be great if people on this thread could comment on the applicability of a CCR mods to a regular CC, so one would know what mods are suitable. I guess its a problem for the modders to verify the suitability, since original CC is difficult to come by and therefore for them to try their mods on it.

The one mod the several CC owners have adapted is the railway track as previously covered. I adapted one for use in my game and I am very happy with the end result. The only downside to me is that it does obscure the drop targets a bit more particularly the LH side one but a small price to pay.

Also purchasing this mod has then inspired me to do some of the other things to my CC that I have had "planned" including putting a playfield overlay on my pristine playfield & changing the pop bumper skirts that had gone brittle & were beginning to break up. I also installed some figurines I had & a couple of other small mods I would like to share.

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#177 41 days ago

One of the other things about the game that has always annoyed me was the ill fitting mountain. I had seen ol mate in Germany had previously made an improved version but had none available for purchase. I examine the existing one closely & it appeared to me that it could be fitted better if it was brought forward, raised slightly & moved to a little to the left. So on the RH side I put a new mounting hole in the mountain a little lower & a little towards the back. I fill & touched up the old hole. On the LH side I made a bracket to bring the mount forward slightly spaced to the left. Finally I painted the hinge in a similar shade to mountain & I am happy with the vast improvement in fit. Just like it was made for it.

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#178 41 days ago

I also hollowed these figurines out with a Dremel etc to make switch covers.

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#179 41 days ago

The other thing I did during my revamp was paint the ball shoots black. Then for the mine shoot I found a Whitewater ramp decal, fitted it to some thin acrylic & d/sided taped it to the shoot for the "waterfall" effect.

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#180 41 days ago

So a couple of other figurines including the cactus in the corner etc. Just waiting for the side art to come & that will pretty much finished it off for me unless some other outstanding mod comes along.

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