(Topic ID: 159422)

Bubba Like Shiny Silver Ball!! => Cactus Canyon Club

By AJB4

7 years ago


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  • 205 posts
  • 54 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by aeneas
  • Topic is favorited by 40 Pinsiders

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There are 205 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 5.
#151 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

I think it would. They just probably hadn't given it a try. Why don't you purchase and let us know.
I just installed a CGC topper for my MM original machine. It worked out great, just had to do a few modifications to make it fit, turned out great.
[quoted image]

Maybe I will ask from Ulekstore if they want to give me one for free if I act as a guinea pig

I am receiving the CGC CCR topper for my CCC as well - how well did you manage to get the CGC MM topper integrated with the game? Do you have any similar plans for the CGC CCR topper?

#152 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Maybe I will ask from Ulekstore if they want to give me one for free if I act as a guinea pig
I am receiving the CGC CCR topper for my CCC as well - how well did you manage to get the CGC MM topper integrated with the game? Do you have any similar plans for the CGC CCR topper?

I have been working with Pinsider stumblor to create a plugin play board to do exactly that. He is close to finishing it. You can view some of the process here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stumblor-lollypops-full-color-reactive-led-pop-bumper-rings/page/2
Also he just stated this in the MM thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-medieval-madness-owners-club-the-door-is-open-cmon-in?tu=stumblor

#153 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

I have been working with Pinsider stumblor to create a plugin play board to do exactly that. He is close to finishing it. You can view some of the process here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stumblor-lollypops-full-color-reactive-led-pop-bumper-rings/page/2
Also he just stated this in the MM thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-medieval-madness-owners-club-the-door-is-open-cmon-in?tu=stumblor

Wow! Great! I will start to follow your progress!

There is now also the Pinshakers' Plug and Play shaker available: http://www.pinshakers.com/
I wonder, would it work with p-roc and CCC as well? Well, this is the wrong thread to ask that, but in case anyone knows the answer, feel free to answer

#154 1 year ago

Just finished modifying a train track that I purchased for The Walking Dead machine to fit into my CC original. Made a number of cuts, drilled holes, JB weld some areas between tracks for installation and painted some. Turned out great.

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#155 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Anyone tried, would this railroad mod fit to classic CC? The website does tell that it is for CCR only, but it might be that they haven't had a chance to try to install it to a classic CC.
https://www.ulekstore.com/Railroad_Train_Track_MOD_for_Cactus_Canyon_Remake_p/cgc_ttmod.htm

Original CC's don't have holes in the metal rail so you'd have to drill your own or use something like double sided tape to attach it.
Dimensions wise I think it'll fit.

#156 1 year ago
Quoted from aeneas:

Original CC's don't have holes in the metal rail so you'd have to drill your own or use something like double sided tape to attach it.
Dimensions wise I think it'll fit.

Thanks for the info!

#157 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Anyone tried, would this railroad mod fit to classic CC? The website does tell that it is for CCR only, but it might be that they haven't had a chance to try to install it to a classic CC.
https://www.ulekstore.com/Railroad_Train_Track_MOD_for_Cactus_Canyon_Remake_p/cgc_ttmod.htm

Hello and thank you for the interest in our Train Track mod. We've had several ppl asking if our mod would fit on an original CC or not... and you're correct... we don't have access to one so we're not 100% positive that it will or won't. With that being said, if anyone would be willing to look underneath their metal rail and see if there are 3 screws/bolts on the underside (1 on the left, 1 in the middle and 1 on the right) and/or could take a few pictures - that would help out tremendously. We also offered a few customers discounts on the track to see if it'll fit or not... but they are both overseas and might take awhile for them to receive it. So if anyone in the States would be interested in a discount on the mod and would be willing to take a few pictures, give us feedback on the fit, etc... please contact us at [email protected]

Thank you in advance and hope to have an answer for everyone within the next couple of days.

-David

#158 1 year ago
Quoted from ULEKstore:

Hello and thank you for the interest in our Train Track mod. We've had several ppl asking if our mod would fit on an original CC or not... and you're correct... we don't have access to one so we're not 100% positive that it will or won't. With that being said, if anyone would be willing to look underneath their metal rail and see if there are 3 screws/bolts on the underside (1 on the left, 1 in the middle and 1 on the right) and/or could take a few pictures - that would help out tremendously. We also offered a few customers discounts on the track to see if it'll fit or not... but they are both overseas and might take awhile for them to receive it. So if anyone in the States would be interested in a discount on the mod and would be willing to take a few pictures, give us feedback on the fit, etc... please contact us at [email protected]
Thank you in advance and hope to have an answer for everyone within the next couple of days.
-David

Hi David,
The metal track that the train glides on and where you would install/attach the tracks to has no holes on an orginal CC, I do see them on a remake. I know this as I have had two CC and still own one that I just installed/modified a TWD tracks on my CC. See just above posts.

I drilled holes through the middle and right support areas and did a metal attachment bracket for the left support as the tracks did not fit to that support area because the ramp plastic was in the way. Maybe the ramp has been modified for the tracks to fit further on a remake.

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#159 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Hi David,
The metal track that the train glides on and where you would install/attach the tracks to has no holes on an orginal CC, I do see them on a remake. I know this as I have had two CC and still own one that I just installed/modified a TWD tracks on my CC. See just above posts.
I drilled holes through the middle and right support areas and did a metal attachment bracket for the left support as the tracks did not fit to that support area because the ramp plastic was in the way. Maybe the ramp has been modified for the tracks to fit further on a remake. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you.

#160 1 year ago

Having a bit of fun with an ultra-wide LCD panel I acquired recently - My GIMP skills are beginner level but I managed to put Polly on the screen in the extra space (This is a 5x1 panel and DMD frames are 4x1). I can't figure out how to upscale the dots though, PYgame is a bit confusing to my old grey cells... The LCD came with a CGC metal speaker panel and I have some Pyle Gear speakers on order.

polly (resized).jpgpolly (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#161 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

I believe CC has 2 MRS' in the mine entrance position - you need to be sure both are working - they were put there together to cover a greater area of registration - only 1 may be working and thus the ball won't be as detected as often...just ensure both are working...if not - then one may have come loose and is not picking up the ball as it rests down too far - so be sure to press both firmly up into the pocket...
Matt

I think this is exactly the problem with the Mine Entrance switch 15 that I am having. It seems that it does not register the ball, but instead, if I put my magnetic tool over the area, the switch 15 registers!

I also went into the mine test in my CCC and it seems that switch 15 is active all time time (or inactive, I do not know what the "cross" signs in the test. There is a cross over switch 15 all the time).

But the switches under the playfield do not seem to move... I think they are called "Magnetic reed switches". Should I remove them with a tool and try to re-install or what is the recommended procedure to get them to work? Should I just take some pliers and pull the switches out or how should one go about doing it in case replacing them is necessary? It seems that there is some grey plastic of sort around the reed switches (?), should it be removed as well?

Also, might it be that I am using wrong balls - they were called "oohshiny" by the code name, when I bought them.

Thanks for any help on how to fix this!
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#162 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I think this is exactly the problem with the Mine Entrance switch 15 that I am having. It seems that it does not register the ball, but instead, if I put my magnetic tool over the area, the switch 15 registers!
I also went into the mine test in my CCC and it seems that switch 15 is active all time time (or inactive, I do not know what the "cross" signs in the test. There is a cross over switch 15 all the time).
But the switches under the playfield do not seem to move... I think they are called "Magnetic reed switches". Should I remove them with a tool and try to re-install or what is the recommended procedure to get them to work? Should I just take some pliers and pull the switches out or how should one go about doing it in case replacing them is necessary? It seems that there is some grey plastic of sort around the reed switches (?), should it be removed as well?
Also, might it be that I am using wrong balls - they were called "oohshiny" by the code name, when I bought them.
Thanks for any help on how to fix this!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Well....so...the MRS are installed very simply....you'll notice 2 rubber nuts on each end of the MRS...that's what they are, simply a small piece of rubber tubing that pushes onto a small plastic post....you merely pull off with a small needle nose...and the MRS will fall out...you'll want to remove both MRS' and use a pinball to test each one to see if they are registering - normal state is open...from your test menu - you have a closure - NOW, I believe both of those are tied together - so only one may be closed - you'll want to figure out which one..

From your picture - I am highly suspicious of the metal weldment - it would appears that 'flap' is sitting out pretty far and may be causing the MRS closest to it to register falsely.....be on the lookout for that....you may be able to remedy that by simply rotating the MRS 180degrees...but you may find that weldment is the problem and you have to push that flap back in some (not much) for the MRS to not register....

Matt
M&M Creations

#163 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Well....so...the MRS are installed very simply....you'll notice 2 rubber nuts on each end of the MRS...that's what they are, simply a small piece of rubber tubing that pushes onto a small plastic post....you merely pull off with a small needle nose...and the MRS will fall out...you'll want to remove both MRS' and use a pinball to test each one to see if they are registering - normal state is open...from your test menu - you have a closure - NOW, I believe both of those are tied together - so only one may be closed - you'll want to figure out which one..
From your picture - I am highly suspicious of the metal weldment - it would appears that 'flap' is sitting out pretty far and may be causing the MRS closest to it to register falsely.....be on the lookout for that....you may be able to remedy that by simply rotating the MRS 180degrees...but you may find that weldment is the problem and you have to push that flap back in some (not much) for the MRS to not register....
Matt
M&M Creations

Thanks for the excellent tips! I might need to bend the metal flap!
I tested the game with other balls and they do not register any better.
I made some reboots and after one reboot the switch 15 registered well with the original balls, but it lost the ability after a new reboot. The switch 15 registered all the time to a magnet tool just fine though.
Might there be some bad connection somewhere, since the switch started to register just fine on one reboot? I wonder, if there is some bigger connector somewhere that I should try to reseat.

Had a look at Robert Winter's CC and indeed the metal flap seems to be protruding too far in my game: http://www.robertwinter.com/pinball/restorations/cc/sold2/under_playfield.jpg

#164 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Thanks for the excellent tips! I might need to bend the metal flap!
I tested the game with other balls and they do not register any better.
I made some reboots and after one reboot the switch 15 registered well with the original balls, but it lost the ability after a new reboot. The switch 15 registered all the time to a magnet tool just fine though.
Might there be some bad connection somewhere, since the switch started to register just fine on one reboot? I wonder, if there is some bigger connector somewhere that I should try to reseat.
Had a look at Robert Winter's CC and indeed the metal flap seems to be protruding too far in my game: http://www.robertwinter.com/pinball/restorations/cc/sold2/under_playfield.jpg

Best thing to do - is like I said - remove the MRS' from their positions (its very simple you can't mess it up) - and test them with a ball - NOT a magnetic tool - you want something that is ferritic to trigger the MRS, not something that is magnetic itself....this will also allow you to see if the flap is causing the switch to trigger too because if the current state is the MRS is triggered - then simply remove it and see if it clears (it likely will) then you know to simply rotate the MRS when you put it back or you have to bend the flap back...

These MRS' will last a very long time (they rarely fail) - but this type of behavior is likely due to interference of some kind...not a re-seated connection...

Matt

#165 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Best thing to do - is like I said - remove the MRS' from their positions (its very simple you can't mess it up) - and test them with a ball - NOT a magnetic tool - you want something that is ferritic to trigger the MRS, not something that is magnetic itself....this will also allow you to see if the flap is causing the switch to trigger too because if the current state is the MRS is triggered - then simply remove it and see if it clears (it likely will) then you know to simply rotate the MRS when you put it back or you have to bend the flap back...
These MRS' will last a very long time (they rarely fail) - but this type of behavior is likely due to interference of some kind...not a re-seated connection...
Matt

Thanks! I will do just that! When I compare the picture under the playfield of my game to Robert Winter's game, it indeed seems that the upper reed switch in the picture of my game should be turned 180 degrees.

#166 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Best thing to do - is like I said - remove the MRS' from their positions (its very simple you can't mess it up) - and test them with a ball - NOT a magnetic tool - you want something that is ferritic to trigger the MRS, not something that is magnetic itself....this will also allow you to see if the flap is causing the switch to trigger too because if the current state is the MRS is triggered - then simply remove it and see if it clears (it likely will) then you know to simply rotate the MRS when you put it back or you have to bend the flap back...
These MRS' will last a very long time (they rarely fail) - but this type of behavior is likely due to interference of some kind...not a re-seated connection...
Matt

Thank you, I turned the other MRS and bent the flap - now it seems to work properly again.

#167 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Thank you, I turned the other MRS and bent the flap - now it seems to work properly again.

Good deal - as expected....we know our MRS'! : )

Matt
M&M Creations

#168 1 year ago

Hello, I'm having an issue when the ball hits Bart.

The ball doesn't come out reliably. I tried swapping the coil with a new one, but that didn't help.

I thought of using a coil that is a bit more powerful. Do you have any recommendations?

#169 1 year ago
Quoted from all_pinball:

Hello, I'm having an issue when the ball hits Bart.
The ball doesn't come out reliably. I tried swapping the coil with a new one, but that didn't help.
I thought of using a coil that is a bit more powerful. Do you have any recommendations?

You need to examine the mech and figure out the issue rather than forcing it.
Are there missing/loose screws on the coil bracket or any unusual wear or bent edges?
Check the wires are complete ie. not partially broken inside the insulation or the crimped connectors are loose.
If the mech is moving off the playfield that will absorb some of the energy - Can you tighten all the fixing screws properly?
If not, glue cocktail sticks in the holes and try again.
Is there debris eg. a broken rubber or anything blocking the exit?

#170 1 year ago
Quoted from Mik-ReadingUK:

You need to examine the mech and figure out the issue rather than forcing it.
Are there missing/loose screws on the coil bracket or any unusual wear or bent edges?
Check the wires are complete ie. not partially broken inside the insulation or the crimped connectors are loose.
If the mech is moving off the playfield that will absorb some of the energy - Can you tighten all the fixing screws properly?
If not, glue cocktail sticks in the holes and try again.
Is there debris eg. a broken rubber or anything blocking the exit?

I restored the machine completly, took everything apart, cleaned it and put it back together. It already didn't work before.

#171 1 year ago
Quoted from all_pinball:

I restored the machine completly, took everything apart, cleaned it and put it back together. It already didn't work before.

Maybe compare it with the mine popper, try swapping drive or coil and check it still works, otherwise I'm out of ideas

#172 1 year ago
Quoted from Mik-ReadingUK:

Maybe compare it with the mine popper, try swapping drive or coil and check it still works, otherwise I'm out of ideas

thanks, I'll try it out.

#173 1 year ago

A couple folks reached out to me to see if I was doing my Start Buttons or Coin Reject Buttons for the remake, so I looked back at the original game too. I don't think I'll be doing a Start button -- on older games, with smaller, recessed start buttons, my replacement start buttons cover up the counterbore and step you up to a larger modern size button. However, since there's artwork specifically placed around the counterbore, I don't want to cover any of that up. I might eventually try one just to see how it looks (might be fine after all) but not yet.

In the meantime though I just had some fun with the coin reject buttons! I love the cactus on the side of the backbox wearing a sheriff badge, that just cracked me up -- so I decided to use that for inspiration, see below.

Link to shop listing: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/06821-3d-coin-reject-buttons-cactus-canyon-original-or-remake

CactCanCoins2 (resized).jpgCactCanCoins2 (resized).jpg
#174 1 year ago
Quoted from Mik-ReadingUK:

Maybe compare it with the mine popper, try swapping drive or coil and check it still works, otherwise I'm out of ideas

I tried it out and it works with the mine popper coil. The ball only comes out too fast and hits the ramp, I'll try to find a coil that is not as powerful.

2 weeks later
#175 1 year ago

It seems that mods for CCR are popping up. It would be great if people on this thread could comment on the applicability of a CCR mods to a regular CC, so one would know what mods are suitable. I guess its a problem for the modders to verify the suitability, since original CC is difficult to come by and therefore for them to try their mods on it.

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#176 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

It seems that mods for CCR are popping up. It would be great if people on this thread could comment on the applicability of a CCR mods to a regular CC, so one would know what mods are suitable. I guess its a problem for the modders to verify the suitability, since original CC is difficult to come by and therefore for them to try their mods on it.

The one mod the several CC owners have adapted is the railway track as previously covered. I adapted one for use in my game and I am very happy with the end result. The only downside to me is that it does obscure the drop targets a bit more particularly the LH side one but a small price to pay.

Also purchasing this mod has then inspired me to do some of the other things to my CC that I have had "planned" including putting a playfield overlay on my pristine playfield & changing the pop bumper skirts that had gone brittle & were beginning to break up. I also installed some figurines I had & a couple of other small mods I would like to share.

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#177 1 year ago

One of the other things about the game that has always annoyed me was the ill fitting mountain. I had seen ol mate in Germany had previously made an improved version but had none available for purchase. I examine the existing one closely & it appeared to me that it could be fitted better if it was brought forward, raised slightly & moved to a little to the left. So on the RH side I put a new mounting hole in the mountain a little lower & a little towards the back. I fill & touched up the old hole. On the LH side I made a bracket to bring the mount forward slightly spaced to the left. Finally I painted the hinge in a similar shade to mountain & I am happy with the vast improvement in fit. Just like it was made for it.

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#178 1 year ago

I also hollowed these figurines out with a Dremel etc to make switch covers.

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#179 1 year ago

The other thing I did during my revamp was paint the ball shoots black. Then for the mine shoot I found a Whitewater ramp decal, fitted it to some thin acrylic & d/sided taped it to the shoot for the "waterfall" effect.

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#180 1 year ago

So a couple of other figurines including the cactus in the corner etc. Just waiting for the side art to come & that will pretty much finished it off for me unless some other outstanding mod comes along.

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3 months later
#181 1 year ago

Does anyone have a photo of the wires and their order for the coin door sensor thingee for Cactus Canyon? I got one recently that needed leg brackets installed. The front left one was a bit tricky to get out/in and a few wires came loose from the sensor. I thought/hoped I had them put back in correctly but when I start the machine I get a 'high voltage disabled cuz coin door is open' message. Here's what I'm seeing. (Also.. my tech/mechanic skills are a 2.5 on a scale of 1-10, which is why I'm asking for a pic. I have a reproduction of the owners manual but couldn't find deets). Seeing the large image, it's possible that the female for pin 1 isn't fully connected, I'll check that

IMG_8239 (resized).JPGIMG_8239 (resized).JPG

#182 1 year ago
Quoted from mattcallen:

Does anyone have a photo of the wires and their order for the coin door sensor thingee for Cactus Canyon?

A few pages into the manual.

white wire red stripe - empty lug - white wire red stripe ----- black wire yellow stripe - empty lug - black wire yellow stripe.

LTG : )

#183 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

A few pages into the manual.
white wire red stripe - empty lug - white wire red stripe ----- black wire yellow stripe - empty lug - black wire yellow stripe.
LTG : )

Thanks LTG !! What was confusing is another white/red wire (I think) came loose from underneath the four wires, felt around then reconnected it and everything appears to be working.

1 week later
#184 1 year ago
Quoted from aeneas:

I just put some 3D models in my shapeways shop:
Saloon doors and logo, this goes before the Bart head and hides the metal wireframe.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/7J7CTQCS3/cc-saloon-doors?optionId=237263206&li=shops
Small trainstation building to hide the metal box and gears.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/RWL3TEUEV/cc-trainstation?optionId=237262031&li=shops
You go from this:
[quoted image]
To this:
[quoted image]
Note that the models from Shapeways come in white plastic, you need to paint them yourself.
I don't intend to start painting and selling them myself, shipping from Europe is too expensive.

Added 6 months ago: If someone in the EU wants to order them painted then pm me.

Just ordered those, can't believe I didn't see those before.

#185 1 year ago

I recently purchased some mods from Mezel Mods for my CC original machine. They told me that these mods are made to fit the remake and were unsure if they would fit an original CC. I told them I would give it a try and report back.
So follow along as I install each one. Below are pictures of the mods.
1) Train station end building.
2) Mine cart.
3) Mine shaft sign.
4) Train main station.

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#186 1 year ago

The first mod I put in is the mine shaft sign. Had to remove the boulder that's on top and bracket that holds the sign. Once it was out the original sign is held on by one screw and a steal tab behind the upper section of the sign. Their sign is exactly the same mounted spots, so it really was just remove and replace.
I think its a great improvement over the original keep out sign.

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#187 1 year ago

The next one I am installing is the mine shaft cart.
In there instructions they have two small tabs on the underside of the mod that are to slide into the metal bracket in the machine. Mine didn't work as the tabs didn't line up with my bracket. Either way they stated if it didn't line up to just cut the tabs off and stick it on with the double stick tape supplied.
Again I didn't do this as if removal was necessary it was stuck down. I did remove the tabs and used some velcro I had on hand instead. Worked great.

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#188 1 year ago

I do have some extra rail road tracks that I may incorporate on the rock like the remake has, but not today.

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#189 1 year ago

Train station end building wasn't to hard of an install. Here again I used velcro to hold it in place.
Looks great!

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#191 1 year ago

It was $360.00 for all four plus $12.46 on shipping.

#192 1 year ago

Going to hold off on the main train station as the light they included works with the remake only and I'll have to modify it and the station itself to fit the way I want it. So keep tuned in and I'll follow up with what I do.

20221003_174213 (resized).jpg20221003_174213 (resized).jpg
#193 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Going to hold off on the main train station as the light they included works with the remake only and I'll have to modify it and the station itself to fit the way I want it. So keep tuned in and I'll follow up with what I do.
[quoted image]

Thanks for posting these pictures and for the description on how they installed.

I ordered the whole set as well. Practically every one that Mezel made for my CCR SE Plus (for when I get it in). I had an original and sold it, but I missed it after it was gone and had to get it back. My only concern is the big train station. Ver6 detailed, but I’m afraid it’s too big and will cover up too much of Barts head.

Fingers crossed.

#194 1 year ago

Thanks for the info and install.
I also have an original and just saw items I didn't know I needed 5 minutes ago, but do now.
I bought a few things from Mezel for my WOZ, they do a good job, now time to place another order
Thanks again!!

3 weeks later
#195 1 year ago

Huge thanks for trying out the MezelMods, great info!

1 week later
#196 1 year ago

Okay today I finished installing the Mezel Mods train station. First off didn't like their mounting bracket as it made the station sit too tall and the original playfield plastic made it stick out too far and it blocked the view of Bart from a player point of view.
So I purchased a used playfield plastic for this location off Ebay and cut the extension off. This way it gave me a second mounting area for the station on the front.
Next I cut off their mount and found a used playfield plastic that I was able to cut and glue in place so that it dropped the station. Also this enabled me to now move the station back out of the view of Bart.
Me never to leave anything alone. I cut and shortened the wire for the outside lamp and added lights, one for the door and one for the upper windows.
I used small cut strips of velcro to hold it in place for easy removal.
All in all I think it turned out great.

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#197 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Okay today I finished installing the Mezel Mods train station. First off didn't like their mounting bracket as it made the station sit too tall and the original playfield plastic made it stick out too far and it blocked the view of Bart from a player point of view.
So I purchased a used playfield plastic for this location off Ebay and cut the extension off. This way it gave me a second mounting area for the station on the front.
Next I cut off their mount and found a used playfield plastic that I was able to cut and glue in place so that it dropped the station. Also this enabled me to now move the station back out of the view of Bart.
Me never to leave anything alone. I cut and shortened the wire for the outside lamp and added lights, one for the door and one for the upper windows.
I used small cut strips of velcro to hold it in place and for easy removal.
All in all I think it turned out great.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

A+ 5 stars! You can actually see all of Bart the primary antagonist of the game. What a much better location for a great looking mod. If only Tim had designed it this way to begin with then I'd be a buyer as well as others I'm sure.

#198 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

A+ 5 stars! You can actually see all of Bart the primary antagonist of the game. What a much better location for a great looking mod. If only Tim had designed it this way to begin with then I'd be a buyer as well as others I'm sure.

Thank you, appreciate it.

#199 1 year ago

Looks great, well done. Agree this looks heaps better.

#200 1 year ago

I have the strangest problem that I have created for myself with my CCC.

When I carry pins up- or downstairs, I have to do it in three parts: backbox, playfield and cabinet each separately. I always rewire the game then, once I get all the parts to the same floor. Usually everything works just fine, but this time I did something that obviously went wrong, since when I now boot up the game, the mine keeps moving up and down constantly and does not stop!

I have reseated the connectors without any luck. Further it seems that all the optos in the game are dead.

If any of you wizards would be able to pinpoint the probable connector that I must have misplaced or some other thing to check, it would be great! Thanks for any tips!

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