Back to the Future: The Pinball
Data East, 1990You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ypurchn.
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Just joined the club today when mine arrived after a long wait! Really enjoying it so far.
Any recommendations for LEDs? This game is really dark with incandescents, especially in the middle of the pf.
In need of new ramp plastics if anyone has a set and wants to sell - not at $700 listed on Flebay in earlier posts.
Quoted from Billy16:Actually, you may be lucky and might leave it alone (or just tweak it slightly)--mine always popped the ball SDTM.
Same here. SDTM
Not a great pic but gets the point across. About 90% LED the 44/47 and 555 with Comet 1 SMD color matched the green and red. Thanks to comment23 for helping with LED count while I was on a limited lifting restriction. A few scargglers in the back that I didn't wanna pull the flux cap ramp to get to cause I was to afraid of damaging.
Anyone have any tricks for getting to the 44/47 bulbs that aren't secured using a 1/4" nut. To me they basically look stuck in place without desoldering but I'm hoping I'm missing something obvious. See pic 2
Quoted from comment23:You have to go from the top of the playfield, which requires disassembly.
I was afraid of that...
what color is everyone's shooter rod? I've got 1 with clear and 1 with red. The clear one is busted so before I replaced it I wanted to get it right.
Quoted from skywelker:What kind of SUV do you have?
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vehicles_for_Moving_Pinball_Machines
That pinwiki is priceless...
I didn't believe that I could NOT put a machine in a 2011 Kia Sorento - it proved me wrong
Figured there was no way my 2nd BTTF would fit in a 2008 Ford Escape regardless of what pinwiki said - it proved me wrong
So this time, I'm trusting it - just bought a 2017 Honda Odyssey for wifey - it'll hold 4 pins - time to double up my collection in one swoop
Quoted from toyotaboy:So ramp update.. I did get a.. quote, and it's not pretty. I'm looking at $1100 for CNC'd tooling (not including trimming because that's an additional $750 programming fee). Being that there are 122 registered owners on pinside, I think I'd be ok trimming them manually and drilling any necessary holes. However with that said, assuming I can safely sell say 20 of them (including the piece price cost to run them), just to break even I'd have to charge $125 each (not including my time to trim and drill holes, labels which I still need to price out). I'm seeing if they have a more cost effective solution that can bring the tooling down, will keep everyone posted.
I don't think $125 is horrible. Is it great either? No.
Quoted from toyotaboy:I'm am open to all options to get this made as affordably as possible
he'd need "20-30 people willing to spend 2-$300 on this ramp before it is even thought of being made."
I know at the price point I'm out.
Quoted from toyotaboy:Any idea what that includes? Is that a finished cut and drilled ramp with decals and riveted metal flaps, and him creating the mold to form it? I can supply the form if he can just run parts. The original is 1/8 acrylic, but I think 1/16" PETG would survive quite well.
we didn't get into details. He's been prompt on his messaging so I'd just hit him up directly. I told him I'm stepping back as I was just trying to connect him to us.
So this is probably more of a troubleshooting issue rather than game specific but I figured I'd start here...
The upper 2/3 of my backglass lighting is completely out. I've narrowed it down to the wiring circuit protected by fuse F4. Checked the fuse. Went ahead and replaced because it what was installed was the incorrect rating. Reseated the connectors (I think it was J5 and C8) still darkness. What should be my next step? Every other GI and PF bulb is working fine except this entire set. Is there something obvious I'm missing?
So, my previous issue is still unresolved - my dad will be over tomorrow and I plan on roping him into helping me troubleshoot. I'm more mechanical than electrical. I own a DMM but get really frustrated with them really easily, he's a 40+ year experience electrician so I hope to report back tomorrow with a solved result.
My 2nd issue will need some more in depth troubleshooting as well.
Issue 2:
"Knocker" coil activates anytime a coil with a wire color "blk-xxx" (xxx = any wire prefix "blu", "yel", it doesn't matter) and "orange" is activated even though the knocker coil is on "blk-gry" and "yel-vio". This isn't a new issue, from the moment I turned the game on the coil was firing (didn't realize it because I was still getting used to the sounds of the game so I though "hmm, that's an odd sound", got 2 balls into a game and smelt smoke to realize the knocker coil was smoking and melted the rod in the coil) decided to replace coil and rod tonight to find it wasn't a coil issue and appears to be something wiring related. So, where do I start to look? Reseated connectors, still a problem. If I pull J6 there is no issue assuming because it looks like all power goes through this connector.
Quoted from Lonzo:This is a common problem with DE games. That is the reason that the knocker is completely missing when you buy one.
You need to test the tip122 transistor at Q39 and the tip36 transistor at Q4.
If you have the knocker disconnected, check to see f the clock tower and top right flasher work in test mode.
The Q39 will drive both based on which is selected. The Q4 is used in the higher power knocker.
Flasher clock and flasher top right work fine and do not activate the knocker.
I got 1.94 going C-E across Q4 which is similar to what I got for q2-q5. Aren't transistors all or nothing so they fact that I got something a good sign? I did these reading with the transistor still mounted to the board as board work is above my soldering skill level. For giggles I measured q3&4 on my 2nd BTTF and I was getting around 2.15
Don't remember q39 reading value but I was getting something going C-E
Did that help any or just make it cloudier?
Thanks for the quick help!
Quoted from Lonzo:Use the diode setting. Should be somewhere in the neighborhood of .6
Sometimes being On the board can give false readings. Usually for transistors you will get nothing or .6 depending on what legs you are testing. If you get a short, then it is bad.
If you have another BTTF then I would also swap the boards and see if you still have the problem.
O.593 on q4 and 0.657 on q39
Should I still swap boards?
Quoted from ypurchn:So this is probably more of a troubleshooting issue rather than game specific but I figured I'd start here...
The upper 2/3 of my backglass lighting is completely out. I've narrowed it down to the wiring circuit protected by fuse F4. Checked the fuse. Went ahead and replaced because it what was installed was the incorrect rating. Reseated the connectors (I think it was J5 and C8) still darkness. What should be my next step? Every other GI and PF bulb is working fine except this entire set. Is there something obvious I'm missing?
I swear I checked J5 but when I pulled it today pin#1 was burnt/broken and stayed with the board. with moderate damage to the connector. So I'm thinking this one is obvious. Not sure if the higher rated fuse cause this issue or just old/worn/bad connector. Hypothesis - old connector was heating up. Popping fuse. Solution = increase fuse size. Eventually fuse got too large to protect against heat build up? Idk but sounds good anyway.
Quoted from mavantix:Interesting. I just got a set of BTTF decals from them. They're not perfect, but they're better than the cab I had. Wonder what the deal is?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-decals-from-retro-refurbs/page/5
It gets juicy around pages 4 and 5
so I finally got around to ordering the needed parts to replaced J5 and GPE is out of the 9-pin header... so it's off to the interweb to find them.
so I figured since I was waiting on header parts I would go ahead and rebuild the flippers... nope... marco's kit is for newer DE games. I see where they even posted the TB from Sega/Stern about the parts needed for rebuilds but, I guess it was just an oversite from the manufacturer. Pinball Life's kit actually matches what is installed on my machine http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3525 luckily (I guess) my SP sounds like it's having some flipper issues so I can still use the kit.
Quoted from ypurchn:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-decals-from-retro-refurbs/page/5
It gets juicy around pages 4 and 5
this was probably the best publicity stunt I've seen pulled in a minute. Create enough of a mini panic, that sales probably spiked once he re-opened.
Quoted from mavantix:Here's a picture of the Marco kit I recently ordered for BTTF. Only differences I see are the EOS switches included and the return springs are the newer style that link to the bracket, where as the pinball life kit includes both spring options and no EOS switches.
yeah, the springs that go over the plunger links are the parts I'm missing that come with pinball life's kit.
Quoted from skywelker:After a long search I managed to join the club twice in the past few months
showoff 
It's obvious that there are some lighting shadows playing games but, is the original blue really THAT much darker than the retro refurb decals?
Quoted from mavantix:I actually considered doing brushed stainless steel on my restoration, and I suppose I still could, but the armor and legs would all have to be custom fabricated, so it isn't really top priority. I think it would look cool though, especially if I could get a matching coin door too! Maybe I'll just stick a Mr. Fusion on as a topper and call it a day.
You could get them airbrushed for a brushed SS look... I would expect that to be fairly easy for even a mid-rate custom painter. I used to see guys paint super realistic rust onto custom cars - and rust is really complex. I would think a uniform and simple color would be very doable.
So could someone tell me what the consensus is for flipper coils:
Manual says: 23-900
Both of my machines have: 090-5020-30
Marco lists: 090-5020-20
What does everyone have?
Quoted from mavantix:Maybe I'll just stick a Mr. Fusion on as a topper and call it a day.
Go on Big Balla you got this.
Back to the Future Mr. Fusion Replica https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPADMRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cUNGzb078WADY
Quoted from toyotaboy:I do wonder how well this would work:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Giani-Liquid-Stainless-Steel-12-oz-Stainless-Steel-Appliance-Paint-Kit-FG-RDKIT-19-SQ-FT/204384591
Quoted from ypurchn:So could someone tell me what the consensus is for flipper coils:
Manual says: 23-900
Both of my machines have: 090-5020-30
Marco lists: 090-5020-20
What does everyone have?
Bump
Quoted from Hammerhead:090-5020-30 on mine, and they're very strong, almost too strong. Marco might be on to something.
Appears it was updated in a service bulletin
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb62.pdf
090-5020-20
Can someone confirm the diode direction for the knocker coil wiring? I can’t find my pictures of the last time I took this apart. Is this some kind of cheat way to figure this out like diodes always point to the darker wire or something?
So.... I finally re-installed my rebuilt flippers and now they won't move. I checked fuses to find both F5 fuses on the PS and PPB board blown so I replaced with the correct size. Reseated all of the connectors I could put my hands on. Still dead flippers. Not even getting a hum out of them or anything.
I did turn the game on with the flipper wires loose before I re-installed. They were taped off so I didn't think anything of it...
Thoughts on where to go next?
Quoted from ypurchn:Can someone confirm the diode direction for the knocker coil wiring? I can’t find my pictures of the last time I took this apart. Is this some kind of cheat way to figure this out like diodes always point to the darker wire or something?
Points to the yellow wire
Quoted from ypurchn:So.... I finally re-installed my rebuilt flippers and now they won't move. I checked fuses to find both F5 fuses on the PS and PPB board blown so I replaced with the correct size. Reseated all of the connectors I could put my hands on. Still dead flippers. Not even getting a hum out of them or anything.
I did turn the game on with the flipper wires loose before I re-installed. They were taped off so I didn't think anything of it...
Thoughts on where to go next?
Molex connector under PF had come loose. Fuses tested good even though they appeared blown. Replaced them all anyway.
it's official I sold 1 of my BTTFs for too little. They're going for $25K now
ebay.com link: like
So I have an o shit moment.
I didn’t label the white wires in my pictures so now I have no idea which white wire lands where on my power supply board for CN1 and CN9. I’ve traced them back and they’re both coming off of the transformer.
Looking at the diagram I’m not sure it matters. For CN1 they’re both 6.3V. For CN9 I’m assuming it’s the same voltage since they’re driven off of the same molex connector.
I don’t wanna oversimply this but I don’t think it mattered which white land where within each connector. Am I making this too easy? Or do I need to tone out the wires?
CN1 wire size is smaller than CN9 so it’s obvious which of those land where. Just more concerned within the connector itself if it matters.
I hope that makes sense. Sorry if I rambled along.
Quoted from ypurchn:So I have an o shit moment.
I didn’t label the white wires in my pictures so now I have no idea which white wire lands where on my power supply board for CN1 and CN9. I’ve traced them back and they’re both coming off of the transformer.
Looking at the diagram I’m not sure it matters. For CN1 they’re both 6.3V. For CN9 I’m assuming it’s the same voltage since they’re driven off of the same molex connector.
I don’t wanna oversimply this but I don’t think it mattered which white land where within each connector. Am I making this too easy? Or do I need to tone out the wires?
CN1 wire size is smaller than CN9 so it’s obvious which of those land where. Just more concerned within the connector itself if it matters.
I hope that makes sense. Sorry if I rambled along.
A simpler way to ask my ?... if the wire colors are the same, does it matter which one hooks up to where?
Anyone have an original manual? Can you take a high res photo or scan of the diagrams on page 39? The IPDB version just ain’t cuttin’ it
Ok guys, big thanks to Deafcon but I realized even the manual can't beat a good ol' field check
Could someone PLEASE take a DMM and do a continuity check
Between power supply CN1 pins 4 and 9 - should be (2) white wires
IMG_5143 (resized).JPG
and the first set of 12 pin connectors off of the transformer pins 2 & 3 - this should also be (2) white wires with 1 on a female and 1 on a male connector
IMG_5141 (resized).JPG
Quoted from ypurchn:A simpler way to ask my ?... if the wire colors are the same, does it matter which one hooks up to where?
to answer my own question. Yes, maybe. In my case 2 white wires eventually became a white/red and white/yellow that connected to different ends of the transformer. Assuming 1 end is hot and 1 end is the neutral.
I did the same thing with 2 orange wires that wasn't the case. So, it's not as simple as a Y or N answer.
Quoted from ypurchn:Ok guys, big thanks to deafcon but I realized even the manual can't beat a good ol' field check
Could someone PLEASE take a DMM and do a continuity check
Between power supply CN1 pins 4 and 9 - should be (2) white wiresand the first set of 12 pin connectors off of the transformer pins 2 & 3 - this should also be (2) white wires with 1 on a female and 1 on a male connector
to answer my own question. Yes, maybe. In my case 2 white wires eventually became a white/red and white/yellow that connected to different ends of the transformer. Assuming 1 end is hot and 1 end is the neutral.
I did the same thing with 2 orange wires that wasn't the case. So, it's not as simple as a Y or N answer.
anyone available to help a guy out?
Quoted from Mikonos:I just finished! It is ready to print!
"Back to the Future All Complete Targets Set" for DATA EAST PINBALL restored by Zona Arcade & Mikonos.
http://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/capturas/Back%20to%20Future%20Complete%20targets%20Set.%20Restored%20Mikonos1.jpg
This set has many spares: 9x Indian Target, 5x Mr. Fusion Target, and 6x Fire Targets. I hope you like!
It will be printed in vinyl with gloss protective lamination and precut!
Regards
Where do we purchase?
Anyone have any advice for gapping the DMC drop target switches? I can’t seem to get mine to gap correctly. I’ve gone from right next to each to spread out wide and everything in between.
Anyone wanna take some pics? And or try to give me an idea of how much to gap?
Quoted from ypurchn:Anyone have any advice for gapping the DMC drop target switches? I can’t seem to get mine to gap correctly. I’ve gone from right next to each to spread out wide and everything in between.
Anyone wanna take some pics? And or try to give me an idea of how much to gap?
Finally got them going on my own.
Idk who’s Cheerios I pissed in but I have been getting 0 help on pinside lately.
Quoted from ypurchn:Repro plastics available
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/bttf/
Bumping again to help spread the word
turned my BTTF on for the first time this year last week. I've since put in about 25 games and a few things have popped up:
1 - after locking a ball, no ball gets ejected into the shooter lane. I'm not hearing a coil fire or anything. This was an intermittent problem last year that seems to be fully present now.
2 - 80% volume reduction in playfield sounds (ball whooshs, alarms/bells, etc.) coming from the left speaker. Background music plays fine but, the other stuff is greatly lacking in sound volume
Any thoughts?
Quoted from Dkjimbo:Check your sound board, particularly the back side. I had some issues with a BTTF where one side, the sound was almost non-existent. What did I find? An absolutely roasted capacitor that left permenant damage to the PCB. I was able to replace the cap and solder on jumpers to repair the destroyed traces and it worked fine from them on out but if the caps are going (or totally gone in a blaze of glory like in my case) you may want to try rebuilding the sound board.
Looks clean IMO. F3FFC450-3B45-4B22-8288-CE14C1708EAF (resized).jpeg
When you say rebuild the sound board are you referring to recapping it or something else?
Quoted from Irishbastard:Long shot, but did you check the volume pot inside the cab? If not, grab it during gameplay and wiggle it, then turn it back and forth. Mine causes all sorts of weird sound issues. I just smack it, then it's fine (too lazy to take it out, open it up and clean it).
You’ll never believe it!
So I adjusted the volume up and down and the problem has gone away... weird and dumb but it worked. So what’s the underlying cause?
Quoted from Irishbastard:Just a dirty potentiometer.... (Spray with contact cleaner, work back and forth)
https://www.fender.com/articles/tech-talk/control-crackle-cleaning-your-pots-and-switches-can-help
Also, your ball lock issue sounds like the ball lock switch not registering..
thanks i'll spray it with some deoxit
So I think the ball lock is registering because the pin is changing modes: lights dim, music changes, etc - basically it goes back to the new ball start where you're shooting the skill shot. It just isn't ejecting a ball into the shooter lane.
Thanks for the help.
Quoted from Pinchild:Any help in the way of touch up paint for my BTTF
Blue area on cabinet?
Does anyone have the color code from a previous match?
Thanks
My machine is on the way!
Very Excited
He says it may not be exact to factory but matches the decals he purchased
Quoted from kevster:Something I'm trying to figure out:
It seems that sometimes, several of the Delorean letters are lit very early in a game, as I'm able to activate the Millions after only a couple of ramp shots. I know that one of the Clock Tower rewards is to light the Delorean Millions, but it's not that. But I can't figure out why sometimes the timer is activated so quickly. Any ideas?
There’s a setting for how many DeLorean letters you have on a new game.
Quoted from kevster:Hmm, I have it set to factory settings (except for freeplay). And this doesn't happen very often, just every now and then. Probably only three times in the week I've owned it.
I don't know, maybe I'm just going crazy.
Slightly off on my memory of the setting.
E72694A5-5838-4FCB-B405-60DFBF0F2AC4 (resized).jpegAnyone looking for an Alpha Numeric display. Just pulled mine out.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-520-5030-00-or-d-11232-display#post-5919954
Quoted from kevster:Volume seems to be working correctly again. Hopefully that sticks.
As for my earlier issue about several of the Delorean lights being spotted early in a game, I started paying closer attention recently. And the problem is actually very apparent: the letters aren't resetting after each game. So after a final ball drains, if the machine is not powered down and back on, the next game will start with letters spotted according to where the previous game left off. Anyone ever seen this issue before?
Check my previous comments on your earlier posts directly showing you the manual. Sounds like your setting is set to easy.
That is horrible wear. Worse I’ve seen ever on a BTTF.
New play fields can not be found. Unobtanium.
That crater in the middle is going to change the ball trajectory. Not sure how even playable the game may be with that hole? I guess that’s one way to make a semi boring game more challenging.
If the play field looks like that the boards and cab can’t be much better.
Hard to estimate anything without seeing the entire pin.
Quoted from dimthedaylights:Ok I’m having a brain fart I have a bulb out but the diode tests fine and if I test with with the game on with the multimeter the bulb lights. What am I missing?
You haven’t done the action required to light the bulb when playing?
Quoted from ravve:Is there any guide somewhere showing how to remove the whole ramp assembly? pics or something would help
Thx
I know this sounds kind of dumb. But just keep very lightly tugging/lifting it and that’s the easiest way to find the screws holding it.
If I remember correctly it gets relatively tricky around the corners of the cabinet
Quoted from ravve:I dissabled the plastic ramp and some other things, but forget to note where this piece goes.
Anyone?[quoted image]
I couldn’t find that 1 on mine. Posting just so I can see where it is when someone does find it.
Quoted from Boof-Ed:It goes on the entrance to the right ramp. Can just make it out in this picture. [quoted image]
No wonder I can’t find it. Mines missing!
image (resized).jpgQuoted from defonze88:Hi could anyone give me the measurements of the legs that belong on the game I'm trying to order new ones and the manual is giving me 30 1/2
But I'm assuming the front are shorter thank you,
Not shorter in the front. I’m pretty sure no one makes true DE replacement legs anymore. Believe originals were 28.5 now only make 30.5
Quoted from kevster:The Clock Tower frequently returning the ball right in between the flippers: bug or feature?
Sometimes it won't happen for several games and then suddenly it's responsible for all 3 drains. Frustrating way to lose.
Fairly common.
Quoted from mcalon:I thought I broke the high score, but world score remains. How is this possible? Is this something to do with high score settings?
[quoted image]
I don’t think mine says world record. Rom difference?
Quoted from JodyG:BTTF test pull is done...should be having these on the street in early February once I complete a couple tweaks.
[quoted image]
This is awesome to finally see these done.
Jody, do you typically do limited runs or are things "always available" or at least within a few weeks/months? Basically, trying to figure out if I should buy it and put it away or if there's a chance I can just order it in the future - years from now time frame.
Quoted from JodyG:I do not do ramp decals...I was able to remove the original decals with freeze spray and they could easily be reused again. Just be careful, they are very thin- unlike the B/W decals. I am lobbying someone to remake them, but it is a long process...so don't plan on seeing them any time soon.
I have yet to "retire" a ramp. My goal is to always have one on the shelf...but sometimes I run out. Usually for ramps, they may be out of stock a month or two at most before I get another batch run again. The exception would be ramps that require a bunch of CNC cutting like Rollergames...I only will be doing one large batch of those a year due to the extended setup time. This ramp is on the easier side to run, so you should be fine. I will probably launch with two batches of 10 initially, then more batches to satisfy any additional demand.
Thanks for the detailed response!
Quoted from defonze88:Can anyone confirm the legs on the game are 30 1/2 Really appreciate it I didnt think they where that ling
No 28.5” is the original size. As of a few years ago, no one made them so if you wanted brand new legs you have to settle for 30.5”
Quoted from DakotaMike:Looks great.
I think Back to the Future is kind of an underrated game. The soundtrack is really great, and it’s fun to shoot. The rules are on par for basically any pre-full-DMD Data East game.
Couldn’t have said if better myself. Great pin and decently hard overall with good callouts. Not much more to ask for from this era IMO.
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