just joined the club today

Cabinet decals:
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/back-to-the-future/5738/cabinet-decal-set-for-back-to-the-future
http://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/back-to-the-future-pinball-cabinet-decals/

My sides are pretty decent, most likely I can get away with touching up small areas or scanning it and making my own. My front however is severely planked but I don't want to buy a full set just to do the front.

Had resetting issues (along with occasional sound garbling), did a shotgunning of capacitors and transistors on the power supply, display stopped working (but I know the display functions by swapping it in whirlwind).

So getting a replacement power supply on friday from K's arcade:
https://ksarcade.net/pt-8345-power-supply-for-williams-and-data-east.html

I don't trust rottendog, and they said most vendors aren't selling X-pin boards because of issues (only Nitro seems to carry it). Hoping this fixes most of my issues.

On a sidenote, I want to build a bunch of mods for this game since it's my favorite movie trilogy. Seen a bunch of great ideas in various threads (pepsi perfect pingulp, railroad tracks, delorean hooked up to flasher circuit, mini hoverboard, wild gunman paper model). I don't want to just build a bunch of parts and randomly put them on the playfield, I want it to look cohesive and planned out. In general, the left ramp seems to be the western side, and the right seems to be the 2015 side (flying delorean, floating sign). 2 things I want to do right off the bat:

1. Build a 3d printed lighted twin pines sign to cover one of the metal brackets on the back:
twin_pines_mall_sign_mod (resized).jpg

2. Replace the clock tower with a 3d printed courthouse mall from 2015:
clock_tower (resized).jpg

Absolutely.. I want the twin pines in the middle back somewhere because it's somewhere between future and past.. There is twin pines art on the plastic under the ramp but it's buried. I had no idea that was even there until I opened up future pinball and browsed through art and went (where the hell is that plastic?)

I definitely want to do an LCD mod, but don't know which way I want to go. Do I go down the path of the future hologram display on the 2nd floor that plays clips from the movie? Or do I 3d model the wild gunman arcade machine with game footage looping and do a partial 80's cafe backsplash?

Rough print of twin pines sign (using an LED flashlight to test). The tree top extended over top but it was too thin to print clean so I may have to thicken it. I want to bump up the yellow in the clock, and I would obviously paint the white bezel silver. Sign is 3" wide for scale.

twin_pines_3d_sign- (resized).jpg

Tested soundboard in a friend's DE secret service, same issue. My board is on it's way to boryguard.

Another mod I'm planning, a proper drink holder

pepsi_perfect_pin_cup. (resized).png

It's going to happen at some point. If I can't make it, I might know someone that can.

Good to know what yours sold for. it's insane what people are willing to pay for BTTF now.

First test print of clock tower, and a sloppy paint job. I'm still printing separate pillars (clock is clear to be backlit). Probably going to separate the black glass / grid pattern so it's clean. It's going to be impossible to do a good job of painting in between the lines.

clock_tower_1st_print (resized).jpg

some parts printed separate in colors, some parts painted

BTTF_clock_tower (resized).jpg

https://vimeo.com/199922569

Ok, so I didn't like how the first courthouse turned out.. I was installing the pillars separate (They are now part of the base). I didn't like the dark red color, bricks are never that color so I found a dark orange that's much closer to brick, then painted the stripes to make them look like bricks. Also went with an almond color for the cement as this closer matches than gray. Everything snaps together really nicely now.

The light isn't really as bright as the photo makes it look (it's hard to get the camera to take a photo of light). I've got more LED's coming tomorrow, probably start building courthouses and pine mall signs. I have two people interested in both, if anyone else wants them let me know. I can always print on demand, but I prefer doing a group and once I do this batch, I'm moving onto other projects. Both will run on 12v and I'm going to try to tap into an existing accessory cable otherwise it'll be a plug that goes into the service outlet.

I'm figuring $40 for the courthouse, and $25 for the twin pines ($60 if you buy the set).

bttf_courthouse_off (resized).jpg
bttf_courthouse_on (resized).jpg

bttf_courthouse_in_game (resized).jpg

printing the 2nd courthouse now.. Got 4 mall signs done, one sign is lit up with 12v led strip

bttf_mall_signs (resized).jpg

Sorry for the delay of the mods, had some personal issues the past couple weeks.

One of the things I wanted to do is make sure I'm thinking ahead (so any future mods is plug and play). I typically just include a plug to go into the service outlet, but I know some customers don't like this because then the mod is on so long as the machine is plugged in. There is the remote outlet option, but that's an extra step (I myself use power strips or remote outlets at the linecord for multiple machines, but that's me). I see no accessory port near the coin door (I'm assuming there is none, not that mine was cut).

So... I believe all my planned mods will be very low powered (any lit mod should be 12v@50mah), and if I decide to do an LCD mod it should be under 300mah. With that said, I think I can tap into the power supply without it hurting for juice (especially if your machine is running LED lighting).

My plan is to breadboard a power tap with four standard SEGA/Stern 3-pin connectors, and then you will need to connect that to the power supply. If you have a new power supply like me, you'll need to solder into the test pads:
20170227_222703 (resized).jpg

If you have an older power supply, there should be test loops (which you could solder to, or if you'd like me to include alligator clips I can):
DATA_EAST_ORIGINAL (resized).JPG

I figure the best place to mount the tap is at the bottom of the playfield, using one of the cable management loops that is connected to a post:
PCB_MOUNT (resized).jpg

There's a nice big hole on the right side where all the connectors can feed through to the top of the playfield:
bttf-bottom_playfield (resized).jpg

I've done this too, but I don't expect people to solder to AC (in fear they will solder something improperly, or won't solder to the right poles).

I have one other option (this is a scaled down version of a power box I worked on a couple months ago). Basically I can suck power off the GI from the coin reject (there are 2 small faston connectors). I can make a splitter, and take that 6.3VAC, use a bridge rectifier to invert it into 7vdc, then use a 5v regulator to drop it down.. Then using a pre-made buck board it can up-convert to 12vdc (which will handle up to 4 amps, or 48 watts).

Roughly calculating, going from incandescent 44 bulbs (1.5 amps) to LED (.2 amps), which saves 1.3 amps (or 8 watts) per bulb converted over. So long as you swap over at least 6 bulbs from incandescent to LED, there should be no additional load from factory power. This would be a completely plug and play solution.

Splitter is $25, plus I don't have any 3-pin molex connector in my cabinet. Is mine missing? There's a connector in the backbox on the right side, but I'm not getting any voltage from it.

Ah, so you guys are making a custom molex splitter off the transformer, taking in the 120vac and powering a separate power supply. And since it's connectorized you can't mess it up. I like that option, and I have a stock of small 12v 3A power supplies that should be plenty of juice.

So I've been getting deeper into my game. Fixed a ball lock switch, went into test to make sure all 3 switches were working in the correct order. My game never gets past ball lock 2.. It says "ball 2 locked", then kicks out a ball from the bottom. No matter how many times I knock down DMC and go into the VUK, it never goes into multiball. Am I missing something?

Yes, always do them in order.. Also did a reset by pulling batteries, same issue.

The roms on the CPU are home burned (hand written sticker), I suppose it's possible whoever burned them didn't do them correctly (or they've developed an issue over time). Half-tempted to spend the $20 on new roms just to rule that out.

Good point, I'll have to check.. from what I remember, with 2 balls locked only top insert is lit.. putting 3rd ball goes to 2nd insert, but then backs to one lit.

Great things to check.. should have thought to test the switches with balls (not my finger pushing on them). trough switches are another good thing to check.. would make sense if say the last switch wasn't registering, that it would kick out another ball thinking one was stuck.. Even if I have all 3 balls in there to start a game, the logic might only be checking the 3rd switch, not all 3.

Will try both of those things out tonight, thanks!

Lonzo you rock..

I don't know why I didn't think to check trough switches. It was the bottom one not making contact with the switch, I can finally achieve multiball! Now I just gotta figure out why my left flipper has weak hold.

Kicks fine, then slowly comes back down (so there's some hold, but it's like it's low voltage). Swapped flipper board with known working one, same thing. Probably going to start measuring voltages at the coil next.

Went ahead and replaced it with one I had, no change

Installed a new powerboard shortly after I got it, fixed a low 5v issue.. replaced that CN1 male connector almost immediately when I got it because of burnt pins. Checked hold voltage, both are around 6.8VDC.

So, just for giggles, I moved the wiring from the right flipper coil that works, over to the left flipper that doesn't.. Low and behold, the issue is still there on the left side. So that means if the power on the right side is good, and it's still not moving on the left, that greatly reduces it down to:
1. mechanical issue (seems to swing pretty free, however the spring is cut and might be pulling back with too much force against the coil). Have new springs in my pinball life cart, also going to be replacing all three pop bumpers with brand new assemblies because not only are mine dirty and have poor switch contact, there's corrosion on both the switches and the metal rods.
2. Could be the coil itself, though previous owner replaced it just before I bought the game (seems to also have the stock diode).

If new spring doesn't fix it, going to install new diode, then might swap coils to see what happens. Meant to check the resistance on each, will check tomorrow.

Checked coils, both measuring about 4 ohms. Swapped springs, right is still fine with shorter spring. Left is better (can hold a ball now), but I can push it down temorarily.

I think I figured out my flipper issue. Was going to go ahead and replace the plungers on both coils. right flipper went fine. Go to try to take the left one off, the screw won't unthread. I take a pair of pliers to the plastic arm, yank it off.. put a vise grips on the bushing real tight, keeps spinning. someone put a bushing on that's too small, somehow managed to press it in. So now I either have to buy a new crank bar (I prefer to keep the stock gold plated one), or I have to cut off the bolt with an angle grinder and replace both the screw and the bushing. Oh and come to find out the plunger is too short on the left, hence why it doesn't have the same strength.
stuck_bushing (resized).jpg
Blue is the previous one, bottom white one is the correct one
short_plunger (resized).jpg

Added over 7 years ago: This definitely fixed my issue

so started to replace the pop bumpers, which means removing the top ramp. I knew something looked funny with the plastic by the bottom pop bumper, but I didn't know it was that bad. Whoever attempted to recreate this plastic not only used plastic twice too thick, but it's as if they exported the plastic from virtual pinball and scaled it up because it looks like total crap. Also looks like they used modge podge or something to apply the regular paper (not photo paper) to the plastic because you can see the glue.

So off to the scanner to get a starting point, trace over it, and get a clean image to recreate my own in 1/16" PETG.

New plastic is on top, old is on the bottom:
old_new_bttf_pop_bumper_plastic (resized).jpg

bttf-pop_bumper_plastic (resized).png

The thinkgeek flux capacitor is pretty big, and the animation isn't that good (and it isn't sold anymore).

There's one that is about the size of a quarter, costs $35, and has better detail and animated lightshow:
http://www.madgeekcollectibles.com

It also has a mode where it will shut itself off after 20 seconds, could be cool to wire up a switch on the ramp so it only activates when you enter the ramp and turns itself off.

So I didn't like how I had to have the ramp flopping around while I lifted the playfield to replace the pop bumpers, so I decided to connectorize everything with J-connectors. I think the gauge is close to the stock wire, if I run a lamp test and the connector is getting too warm I'll source a different connector. At least I have sort of a wiring harness now that can easily plug everything back in very quickly.

bottom (resized).jpg

Obviously in order to get the back ramp out, you have to detach at least the front of the wireform ramp so you can swing it out of the way. I took it out entirely because mine had a lot of paint missing and looked like crap. Few sprays of 3 rattlecans and a couple coats of clear, and it pops again

wireform_ramp painted (resized).jpg

so getting back to the ramp, I was concerned that they formed it with the 2 entry ramps angled down making any attempt at reproducing it VERY difficult because of the depth of the mold. To my delight, I saw that both ramps relaxed back up to the same level as everything else once it was out of the machine
side (resized).jpg

I'm not making any promises of a repro ramp, but I need one VERY BADLY. I have so many cracks:

crack1 (resized).jpg
crack2 (resized).jpg
crack4 (resized).jpg
crack3 (resized).jpg
crack5 (resized).jpg

I've watched a LOT of vacuum forming, and positive mold videos. I believe I have 3 choices:
1. Make a positive mold by pouring plaster of paris on the inside
2. Make a positive mold by pouring low viscosity rubber inside (a little bit pricier, but more likely to pop out after it's solidified).

Either of the above I'll want to spray mold release on the surfaces first.

Option 3: Use my HP4600 scanner, scan the whole thing in chunks, photomerge them, trace the profile in solidworks and create a 3d solid model. I can then print the ramps in small pieces and either glue them, or use screws to join all the pieces together.

I have 2 potential vacuum forming vendors if I can get the positive made, so that part is theoretically easy.

scanned the ramp this morning and photomerged, came out really well. Now I just need to trace it.

bttf_ramp_scan (resized).jpg

trace the image in draftsight (autocad clone). Because the image is scanned at 1, importing it into draftsight also makes it 1
ramp_Trace_draftsight (resized).jpg

Once I have a DXF, I can import it directly into solidworks as a sketch, then extrude 1.1" (depth of internal feature)

bttf_ramp_solidworks (resized).jpg

I started pulling decals off the ramp and scanning them. They all need a lot of cleanup, flux capacitor took me easily 6-7 hours

flux_scan (resized).jpg

flux_cleanup (resized).jpg

Haven't weighed mine, but typically machines from this era are between 200-250lbs

appliance dolly and a friend to help push it from the bottom. If you're by yourself, and the owner isn't willing to help, you have 3 options:
1. Rent an electric stair climbing device like an escalera
2. Remove the backbox, remove the playfield (which means unplugging every connector), then bringing it up in chunks (backbox, playfield, Cabinet). Not the most ideal, but each are fairly manageable by a single person (at least with a cart).
3. Depending on your location, you may be able to convince a fellow pinsider to help you move it. I helped someone buy their first pin about a year ago (which wasn't fun just because the basement was so tight).

Fortunately my labor just got much shorter. A kind pinsider saw this thread and forwarded cleaned up scans he got from someone else that restored his, so at least that's out of the way.

length (with shooter rod): 54inches
width (with backbox):27-3/4 inches
Max Height (with backbox folded down): 28 inches

typically the length and width aren't an issue for transport (even a small hatchbox should fit both of these even if a front seat has to push forward). The height is usually what you have to worry about because many vehicles don't have tall openings, or if they do there's some plastic trim that shortens that opening. You WILL need to worry about the backbox width if your door opening is 28-30", or if there are rails that might stick out.

If this is your first pickup, I recommend scooting it on it's back, the bottom cabinet facing the vehicle, and lift it in (so shooter rod goes in first). Then when you get home, slide it right back out on it's back. Also recommend using a blanket or carpet at the edge so that the cabinet doesn't end up scratching the bumper going in or out. Some also like using a small PVC tube underneath to scoot it in (easier to roll it in than trying to slide it against carpet).

Comparing it to Bally / Williams games at the time (black knight 2000, earthshaker, elvira and the party monsters, whirlwind, banzai run), it pales a bit by comparison. 2 flipper fan layout, 2 entries to the same ramp, One VUK ball lock ramp. It does however have some drop targets which many of the above don't. I didn't buy one because of the layout, I bought it because it's an awesome theme.

So ramp update.. I did get a.. quote, and it's not pretty. I'm looking at $1100 for CNC'd tooling (not including trimming because that's an additional $750 programming fee). Being that there are 122 registered owners on pinside, I think I'd be ok trimming them manually and drilling any necessary holes. However with that said, assuming I can safely sell say 20 of them (including the piece price cost to run them), just to break even I'd have to charge $125 each (not including my time to trim and drill holes, labels which I still need to price out). I'm seeing if they have a more cost effective solution that can bring the tooling down, will keep everyone posted.

Other thing I'm slightly concerned about, if my model is off, I've thrown $1,100 out the window. So I'm starting to 3d print the entire ramp (minimalist, printing only 1/8" thick, cored out). It's split in 6 pieces, and each piece is between a 30-60 minute print. I'll glue them together and see how it fits, that'll solidify my confidence in how accurate my scan trace is.

bttf-rarmp-3d-print (resized).jpg

I'm am open to all options to get this made as affordably as possible

Any idea what that includes? Is that a finished cut and drilled ramp with decals and riveted metal flaps, and him creating the mold to form it? I can supply the form if he can just run parts. The original is 1/8 acrylic, but I think 1/16" PETG would survive quite well.

So you bought comment23's restored bttf, then bought another (or reverse order)? I assume you're not keeping both.

No, rails and lockbar on data east have always been painted black. Williams has stainless rails and lockbar. ALL legs are chrome steel.

I do wonder how well this would work:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Giani-Liquid-Stainless-Steel-12-oz-Stainless-Steel-Appliance-Paint-Kit-FG-RDKIT-19-SQ-FT/204384591

We replaced the bottom of this boat with a screen door, flex seal works!

http://www.rollingstone.com/glixel/news/three-classic-movie-pinball-tables-coming-to-pinball-fx3-w496558

universal_classics_pinball_bttf_screenshots_01-8bc357e0-13c2-445f-b7c6-0b5863adc58f (resized).jpg

that's canadian. it was $550 US, but still

So ironically I was at a vacuum former for a work project today in downtown Chicago.. They are strictly prototype (no production parts). They do bezels for WMS slot machines.. Then he's like "Yea and I got this personal job of a pinball ramp for someone, had to scan it then make a mold". No it wasn't BTTF, and I don't want to say what old game it was for (there was a good stack of 50 ramps). I'm guessing if someone else is there getting pinball ramps made then they might be reasonable, and very willing to do very low volume parts. Stay tuned!

https://vimeo.com/233418608

Back to the future for Zen pinball is out today. On android it's only $2 to buy just BTTF (zen pinball), totally worth it. They did a really good job covering all of the timelines (even the alternate 1985). On PS4, you have to buy all 3 universal tables for $10. You have to search for Pinball FX3, and look for "universal classics".

So 3d printing a couple chunks I've realized that I'm already off.
3d_print_check_off (resized).jpg

I thought about adjusting, reprinting... but this seems a stupid way to go about this. I taped together 4 sheets of 11x17 together, laid the ramp down flat, and started tracing with a pencil. We have a D size scanner at work, I should be able to get a nice 1 image to trace and can update my 3d model. The vendor has been busy making another tool for something at work, but just got first shots today so now is a good time to get a quote.

lets_trace (resized).jpg
traced (resized).jpg

ramp cleaned up in autocad.. adjusted offsets to make sure the ball width stays consistent, and overhangs are consistently 3/8". Going to import into solidworks next and create a 3d model exactly how the part looks with trim. Going to quote with and without trim to see what the price difference is. Hoping to send out for quote on Monday.

bttf_ramp_dxf (resized).jpg

someone sent me scans, and did some cleanup, but I took it a step further. I have the side backbox and front done, and about 90% done with the sides (keep getting sidetracked with projects). I recreated the dither pattern using the gradient tool because I think it scans terribly.

bttf_cabinet_full (resized).png

bttf_cabinet_zoom (resized).png

Annnnd done. Vendor should be able to turn around a quote hopefully before thanksgiving break.. Will let everyone know.

bttf_ramp_3d-model (resized).png

Factory is dithered halftone gradient (2 color). Mine is a a full range color gradient (many colors) so you don't get a pattern. I know it's not "correct", but I think it will look better printed out.. I could do 2-color halftone, but it would be small dots that grew into bigger dots (which would still not be correct), and I'm not sure a modern program like photoshop could easily do the patterned gradient. Only reason they did it back then is because it was less colors to have to print direct as layers.

Finally got the quote from Chicago prototype vacuum former, pricing doesn't seem any better (but I do know what his quality is):

$2900 for the polished renwood tooling and trim fixture (typically you can get between 300-600 parts before the mold starts to wear)
$1800 to form and trim first 20 parts

That means if I amortized the initial tooling cost over 20 parts, I'm looking at $235 each (and I still haven't added spring steel metal flaps or the back decals yet). Even after the initial pricing covered, it's still going to be $90 per ramp.

I may do that just so I lock in buy-ins. It's not about the funding (well it sort of is), but more about commitments so I know what to charge (or how many to make).

The place in milwaukee was $1k cheaper for tool+cnc, but I don't know if they've ever molded anything clear (especially ramps), whereas Chicago vendor I've seen ramps in person. New vendor did mention I might get some wrinkling in this area:
ramp_wrinkle_area (resized).png

But is 90% sure the wrinkling will occur in the trimmed away area. Anytime you have a feature that jogs up and down, with a sharp corner the material doesn't want to flow like you want. I wonder how many rejects Data East had from their vendor before they dialed it in?

Ok so my background is engineering. Before any tooling is ordered, we always check fit with prototypes (usually 3d prints). To increase my confidence level, especially if I'm dishing out real money (or even worse other people's money), I really need to check my work.

Now if I want to send the entire model to an outside vendor and have it printed in one piece (facing up to minimize support) in white ABS it's going to cost $780. If I just want to check the shape (eliminate all of the lip area) it dramatically reduces down to $260.

For kicks I threw an 8" chunk of the end in my 3d printer slicer program, and if I print it the same way I'm looking at a 10 hour job just for that small chunk. I decided to compromise and build it upside down, but with the bottom cut out (to eliminate almost all support) because I'm only interested in making sure the shape is right, and the lip area with holes line up (don't need to be functional). This reduced it down to a 4 hour job:
ramp_print_prusa (resized).jpg

Fits like a glove:
3dprint_fit (resized).jpg

I have all the cabinet art cleaned up, PM me if you need them.

So regarding the ramp, had a nice chat with a pinsider last night to try to explore all options (like maybe see if Marco and Starship fantasy might want to commit to buying and stocking ramps). Starship may even agree to tool it up if I can show I did all the legwork to get a clean model and can show a prototype that verifies the shape is correct. Regarding that, I've got the 2nd piece printed (slowly but surely). I may print some sections at work to speed it up, other jobs have been pushing it out.
bttf_2nd_section (resized).jpg

I'm even considering building my own vacuum forming setup. I've been wanting to build one for years (even if it doesn't end up being used for this project), it has so many uses. Just for the hell of it I 3d printed a proof of concept 2" square piece. Doesn't have any rubber seal, the platen is very thin and not very stiff, but because it has tiny holes (which you need to make it easier to build up pressure) it had really good suction against a piece of paper. I've looked at dozens of other DIY setups and the biggest challenge seems to be building up suction and running a pipe system through a vacuum pump and a storage tank and timing the release. I saw one canadian that simply attached two dry vacs to double his pressure (using good seals everywhere) and he was pulling large stormtrooper masks (deep pull). My dry vac is also a small 3hp, I found a nice 6hp by stanley that's very reasonable I can buy if mine doesn't have enough pull.
tiny_platen (resized).jpg

My manual appears to be a reprint, which I agree is crap quality.

Printer has been busy this week. 8 pieces total, 5-6 hours each. Red material I had was crap (kept snapping, hence why I wanted to use it up) so I switched over to black. Some hot glue to join the pieces, and I've got an accurate representation of my 3d model. From what I can tell, it's pretty dam spot on as far as shape. May need to adjust some holes, but that's a secondary process that's not part of the mold. Let me do some measurements and I'm going to take the next step.

3d_print (resized).jpg
overlay_top (resized).jpg
overlay_bottom (resized).jpg
3d_print_in_machine (resized).jpg

still in the works, other projects have gotten in the way.

got my plastic set today. Beyond the plastics, there are extra goodies as usual (data east keychains), every plastic protector, two of the plastic that's in front of the pop bumper (since this is prone to breaking).

And yes, I still intend to get the ramp made, have to get my game setup again in the basement and recheck everything. Also I was wanted to fund the tool myself, pretty sure I have enough at this point.
bttf_plastics (resized).jpg

Probably want to keep my spare, but you can have my homemade one for free
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bttf-club-whoa-this-is-heavy/page/3#post-3782155

So not making any promises, but a local supplier agreed to work with me on the ramp.. It's probably going to be a month or two while this coronavirus settles down.

I need to find time to tweak my model, but also the vendor I intend to work with isn't allowing visits so it might be another few months until things get better before I can kick it off anyway.

How can this be? John borg literally posted on his facebook last month. Isn't that a big no no with Gary?

borg_bttf (resized).png

The new black knight by Stern actually made black knight 2000 shoot up

If Stern is really making it, the layout could be better, but maybe not (look at star wars). Obviously the display will be great, but how much music / soundbites will they have? They might opt to go the jurassic park route and have voice actors do completely new lines not from the movie (but license say biff since he's a lesser actor). Also I wouldn't be surprised if this was a kapow title, so expect to pay minimum $7k for the lowest tier.

So what I find interesting is Joe Kaminkow is a guest on the super awesome pinball show podcast on Jan 30th, 2020.. he supposedly slipped about back to the future project (franchi apparently doing the art)
It's right around 1 hour and 36 minutes in:
https://superawesomepinballshow.libsyn.com/the-super-awesome-pinball-show-0

Then on the December 2020 show he's on again.. doesn't mention it but franchi keeps playing a clip of a delorean door opening. Stern has never done a very good job about keeping things quiet, but at the same time it feels like they let small blips leak out to make buyers think someone might be coming soon in order to prevent other pinball companies from selling games.. IE in hopes they'll think "well I better not buy pinball A, because Stern might be selling me pinball B.. TTF"

PM sent

glad to see ramp-o-matic made what I couldn't finish on the ramp (sold my game before I could finalize it). Someone was kind enough to share good scans of the ramp decals. PM me if you need them.