(Topic ID: 86018)

BTTF Club Whoa. This is heavy


By dementedwarlok

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 357 posts
  • 59 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by Pinchild
  • Topic is favorited by 27 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 126 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

02053D14-760E-446E-A5E5-10D55AA40413 (resized).jpeg
F3FFC450-3B45-4B22-8288-CE14C1708EAF (resized).jpeg
IMG_0733 (resized).jpg
IMG_0730 (resized).jpg
IMG_1181 (resized).jpg
IMG_1182 (resized).jpg
IMG_1183 (resized).jpg
IMG_1184 (resized).jpg
bttf_plastics (resized).jpg
20181016_220344 (resized).jpg
20181016_220806 (resized).jpg
Back to The Future Custom Pinball Card - Free Play print2.JPG
Back to The Future Custom Pinball Card - Free Play print1.JPG
Back to The Future Custom Pinball Card - Rules print2.JPG
Back to The Future Custom Pinball Card - Rules print1.JPG
Back To The Future Custom Pinball Card - Free Play. Mikonos2.jpg

There are 357 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 8.
#151 2 years ago
Quoted from drew_351:

Anyone know about the dimensions of one of these? Trying to figure out if I would need a trailer, a bed of a truck, or if it would fit in the back of my SUV to pick this up.

What kind of SUV do you have?

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vehicles_for_Moving_Pinball_Machines

#152 2 years ago

That pinwiki is priceless...

I didn't believe that I could NOT put a machine in a 2011 Kia Sorento - it proved me wrong
Figured there was no way my 2nd BTTF would fit in a 2008 Ford Escape regardless of what pinwiki said - it proved me wrong
So this time, I'm trusting it - just bought a 2017 Honda Odyssey for wifey - it'll hold 4 pins - time to double up my collection in one swoop

#153 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

I'm trusting it - just bought a 2017 Honda Odyssey for wifey - it'll hold 4 pins - time to double up my collection in one swoop

2016 Honda Odyssey here. You're 100% good. Just make sure to remove those interior handles next to the sliding doors.

4 may be doable. I can attest to 3.

#154 2 years ago

When you're putting your game back together and realize the wire ramp goes on FIRST not LAST.

IMG_4131 (resized).JPG

#155 2 years ago

Thanks for all the information. Waiting for the guy to get back to me on it. Why are there so many people who claim that this game isn't great. Maybe it is just because I like the movie so much that I think it is awesome. More modern games have deeper and longer game play I am guessing?

Although I do wish it had a ball save.

#156 2 years ago
Quoted from drew_351:

Why are there so many people who claim that this game isn't great. Maybe it is just because I like the movie so much that I think it is awesome

Comparing it to Bally / Williams games at the time (black knight 2000, earthshaker, elvira and the party monsters, whirlwind, banzai run), it pales a bit by comparison. 2 flipper fan layout, 2 entries to the same ramp, One VUK ball lock ramp. It does however have some drop targets which many of the above don't. I didn't buy one because of the layout, I bought it because it's an awesome theme.

#157 2 years ago

I still think this is an absolute mortal lock as the highest selling pin if it is redone as a modern pin.

#158 2 years ago

Back to the ramps, when will we know if you are successful making them? Are we talking days, weeks, months?

#159 2 years ago

So ramp update.. I did get a.. quote, and it's not pretty. I'm looking at $1100 for CNC'd tooling (not including trimming because that's an additional $750 programming fee). Being that there are 122 registered owners on pinside, I think I'd be ok trimming them manually and drilling any necessary holes. However with that said, assuming I can safely sell say 20 of them (including the piece price cost to run them), just to break even I'd have to charge $125 each (not including my time to trim and drill holes, labels which I still need to price out). I'm seeing if they have a more cost effective solution that can bring the tooling down, will keep everyone posted.

#160 2 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

So ramp update.. I did get a.. quote, and it's not pretty. I'm looking at $1100 for CNC'd tooling (not including trimming because that's an additional $750 programming fee). Being that there are 122 registered owners on pinside, I think I'd be ok trimming them manually and drilling any necessary holes. However with that said, assuming I can safely sell say 20 of them (including the piece price cost to run them), just to break even I'd have to charge $125 each (not including my time to trim and drill holes, labels which I still need to price out). I'm seeing if they have a more cost effective solution that can bring the tooling down, will keep everyone posted.

I'm thinking you could sell a lot more. May take time though. I can't remember ever seeing a Bttf with perfect ramp

#161 2 years ago

Other thing I'm slightly concerned about, if my model is off, I've thrown $1,100 out the window. So I'm starting to 3d print the entire ramp (minimalist, printing only 1/8" thick, cored out). It's split in 6 pieces, and each piece is between a 30-60 minute print. I'll glue them together and see how it fits, that'll solidify my confidence in how accurate my scan trace is.

bttf-rarmp-3d-print (resized).jpg

#162 2 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

So ramp update.. I did get a.. quote, and it's not pretty. I'm looking at $1100 for CNC'd tooling (not including trimming because that's an additional $750 programming fee). Being that there are 122 registered owners on pinside, I think I'd be ok trimming them manually and drilling any necessary holes. However with that said, assuming I can safely sell say 20 of them (including the piece price cost to run them), just to break even I'd have to charge $125 each (not including my time to trim and drill holes, labels which I still need to price out). I'm seeing if they have a more cost effective solution that can bring the tooling down, will keep everyone posted.

I don't think $125 is horrible. Is it great either? No.

#163 2 years ago

rock914 said he could do this ramp - I messaged him and asked him to come over and post something

#164 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

@rock914 said he could do this ramp - I messaged him and asked him to come over and post something

I'm am open to all options to get this made as affordably as possible

#165 2 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I'm am open to all options to get this made as affordably as possible

he'd need "20-30 people willing to spend 2-$300 on this ramp before it is even thought of being made."

I know at the price point I'm out.

#166 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

20-30 people willing to spend 2-$300 on this ramp before it is even thought of being made.

Any idea what that includes? Is that a finished cut and drilled ramp with decals and riveted metal flaps, and him creating the mold to form it? I can supply the form if he can just run parts. The original is 1/8 acrylic, but I think 1/16" PETG would survive quite well.

#167 2 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Any idea what that includes? Is that a finished cut and drilled ramp with decals and riveted metal flaps, and him creating the mold to form it? I can supply the form if he can just run parts. The original is 1/8 acrylic, but I think 1/16" PETG would survive quite well.

we didn't get into details. He's been prompt on his messaging so I'd just hit him up directly. I told him I'm stepping back as I was just trying to connect him to us.

1 week later
#168 2 years ago

Joined the club with an old operators machine that has been sitting for 15 years. Going to restore it from the ground up. Looking for any game specific parts and tasteful mod ideas, and particularly a set of plastics if possible (and ramp LOL). Willing to be reasonable on price knowing the rarity. PM me with what you got! Thanks!

2 weeks later
#169 2 years ago

So this is probably more of a troubleshooting issue rather than game specific but I figured I'd start here...

The upper 2/3 of my backglass lighting is completely out. I've narrowed it down to the wiring circuit protected by fuse F4. Checked the fuse. Went ahead and replaced because it what was installed was the incorrect rating. Reseated the connectors (I think it was J5 and C8) still darkness. What should be my next step? Every other GI and PF bulb is working fine except this entire set. Is there something obvious I'm missing?

#170 2 years ago

Check your IDC connectors to see if they're burned or if all wires are seated properly.

You'll need to following the wiring harness from the sockets, to the harness, and through to the IDCs.

Continuity checks with a DMM may also be a good idea to confirm it's getting back to the board.

#171 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

So this is probably more of a troubleshooting issue rather than game specific but I figured I'd start here...
The upper 2/3 of my backglass lighting is completely out. I've narrowed it down to the wiring circuit protected by fuse F4. Checked the fuse. Went ahead and replaced because it what was installed was the incorrect rating. Reseated the connectors (I think it was J5 and C8) still darkness. What should be my next step? Every other GI and PF bulb is working fine except this entire set. Is there something obvious I'm missing?

Make sure you check the Z connectors where the backbox wiring harness connects to the backbox harness. Every DE game I have gotten has had to have the Z connector and associated connectors ties replaced.

1 week later
#172 2 years ago

So, my previous issue is still unresolved - my dad will be over tomorrow and I plan on roping him into helping me troubleshoot. I'm more mechanical than electrical. I own a DMM but get really frustrated with them really easily, he's a 40+ year experience electrician so I hope to report back tomorrow with a solved result.

My 2nd issue will need some more in depth troubleshooting as well.

Issue 2:
"Knocker" coil activates anytime a coil with a wire color "blk-xxx" (xxx = any wire prefix "blu", "yel", it doesn't matter) and "orange" is activated even though the knocker coil is on "blk-gry" and "yel-vio". This isn't a new issue, from the moment I turned the game on the coil was firing (didn't realize it because I was still getting used to the sounds of the game so I though "hmm, that's an odd sound", got 2 balls into a game and smelt smoke to realize the knocker coil was smoking and melted the rod in the coil) decided to replace coil and rod tonight to find it wasn't a coil issue and appears to be something wiring related. So, where do I start to look? Reseated connectors, still a problem. If I pull J6 there is no issue assuming because it looks like all power goes through this connector.

#173 2 years ago

and for those of you that haven't seen it yet... it appears that Retro Refurbs has closed up shop so the only source (that I now of) for BTTF cab decals is GONE. beating myself for not buying a set a few months back when I found them.

#174 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

So, my previous issue is still unresolved - my dad will be over tomorrow and I plan on roping him into helping me troubleshoot. I'm more mechanical than electrical. I own a DMM but get really frustrated with them really easily, he's a 40+ year experience electrician so I hope to report back tomorrow with a solved result.
My 2nd issue will need some more in depth troubleshooting as well.
Issue 2:
"Knocker" coil activates anytime a coil with a wire color "blk-xxx" (xxx = any wire prefix "blu", "yel", it doesn't matter) and "orange" is activated even though the knocker coil is on "blk-gry" and "yel-vio". This isn't a new issue, from the moment I turned the game on the coil was firing (didn't realize it because I was still getting used to the sounds of the game so I though "hmm, that's an odd sound", got 2 balls into a game and smelt smoke to realize the knocker coil was smoking and melted the rod in the coil) decided to replace coil and rod tonight to find it wasn't a coil issue and appears to be something wiring related. So, where do I start to look? Reseated connectors, still a problem. If I pull J6 there is no issue assuming because it looks like all power goes through this connector.

This is a common problem with DE games. That is the reason that the knocker is completely missing when you buy one.
You need to test the tip122 transistor at Q39 and the tip36 transistor at Q4.
If you have the knocker disconnected, check to see f the clock tower and top right flasher work in test mode.
The Q39 will drive both based on which is selected. The Q4 is used in the higher power knocker.

#175 2 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

This is a common problem with DE games. That is the reason that the knocker is completely missing when you buy one.
You need to test the tip122 transistor at Q39 and the tip36 transistor at Q4.
If you have the knocker disconnected, check to see f the clock tower and top right flasher work in test mode.
The Q39 will drive both based on which is selected. The Q4 is used in the higher power knocker.

Flasher clock and flasher top right work fine and do not activate the knocker.

I got 1.94 going C-E across Q4 which is similar to what I got for q2-q5. Aren't transistors all or nothing so they fact that I got something a good sign? I did these reading with the transistor still mounted to the board as board work is above my soldering skill level. For giggles I measured q3&4 on my 2nd BTTF and I was getting around 2.15

Don't remember q39 reading value but I was getting something going C-E

Did that help any or just make it cloudier?
Thanks for the quick help!

#176 2 years ago

Use the diode setting. Should be somewhere in the neighborhood of .6
Sometimes being On the board can give false readings. Usually for transistors you will get nothing or .6 depending on what legs you are testing. If you get a short, then it is bad.

If you have another BTTF then I would also swap the boards and see if you still have the problem.

#177 2 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Use the diode setting. Should be somewhere in the neighborhood of .6
Sometimes being On the board can give false readings. Usually for transistors you will get nothing or .6 depending on what legs you are testing. If you get a short, then it is bad.
If you have another BTTF then I would also swap the boards and see if you still have the problem.

O.593 on q4 and 0.657 on q39

Should I still swap boards?

Quoted from ypurchn:

So this is probably more of a troubleshooting issue rather than game specific but I figured I'd start here...
The upper 2/3 of my backglass lighting is completely out. I've narrowed it down to the wiring circuit protected by fuse F4. Checked the fuse. Went ahead and replaced because it what was installed was the incorrect rating. Reseated the connectors (I think it was J5 and C8) still darkness. What should be my next step? Every other GI and PF bulb is working fine except this entire set. Is there something obvious I'm missing?

I swear I checked J5 but when I pulled it today pin#1 was burnt/broken and stayed with the board. with moderate damage to the connector. So I'm thinking this one is obvious. Not sure if the higher rated fuse cause this issue or just old/worn/bad connector. Hypothesis - old connector was heating up. Popping fuse. Solution = increase fuse size. Eventually fuse got too large to protect against heat build up? Idk but sounds good anyway.

#178 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

and for those of you that haven't seen it yet... it appears that Retro Refurbs has closed up shop so the only source (that I now of) for BTTF cab decals is GONE. beating myself for not buying a set a few months back when I found them.

Interesting. I just got a set of BTTF decals from them. They're not perfect, but they're better than the cab I had. Wonder what the deal is?

#179 2 years ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Interesting. I just got a set of BTTF decals from them. They're not perfect, but they're better than the cab I had. Wonder what the deal is?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-decals-from-retro-refurbs/page/5
It gets juicy around pages 4 and 5

#181 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

O.593 on q4 and 0.657 on q39
Should I still swap boards?

I swear I checked J5 but when I pulled it today pin#1 was burnt/broken and stayed with the board. with moderate damage to the connector. So I'm thinking this one is obvious. Not sure if the higher rated fuse cause this issue or just old/worn/bad connector. Hypothesis - old connector was heating up. Popping fuse. Solution = increase fuse size. Eventually fuse got too large to protect against heat build up? Idk but sounds good anyway.

First of all. Put the correct fuse in.

GI connectors commonly burn on most games of this age. The IDC connectors are not very good. After many years, the resistance starts to increase and they get hot and burn. You will need to replace the header pins on the board and the connector with a new style with Trifurcon contacts. You can find all the parts here. https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

When I get a game from this era I do this whether it's burned or not.

Since you have to wait for parts anyways, I would still swap to boards and confirm where your problem is.

#182 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

So this is probably more of a troubleshooting issue rather than game specific but I figured I'd start here...
The upper 2/3 of my backglass lighting is completely out. I've narrowed it down to the wiring circuit protected by fuse F4. Checked the fuse. Went ahead and replaced because it what was installed was the incorrect rating. Reseated the connectors (I think it was J5 and C8) still darkness. What should be my next step? Every other GI and PF bulb is working fine except this entire set. Is there something obvious I'm missing?

I just fixed this exact problem on my #Maverick tonight. Check J5 on the PPB, wiggle the connector, or pull it off slightly. Does the backbox GI string come back on? In my case it did, indicating either poor connection or cold soldering joint on the J5 male connector on the PPB board. I pulled my PPB and reflowed the solder on all the pins of J5 and popped it back in. GI is good as new! More info here http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#General_Illumination_Issues

1 week later
#183 2 years ago

so I finally got around to ordering the needed parts to replaced J5 and GPE is out of the 9-pin header... so it's off to the interweb to find them.

so I figured since I was waiting on header parts I would go ahead and rebuild the flippers... nope... marco's kit is for newer DE games. I see where they even posted the TB from Sega/Stern about the parts needed for rebuilds but, I guess it was just an oversite from the manufacturer. Pinball Life's kit actually matches what is installed on my machine http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3525 luckily (I guess) my SP sounds like it's having some flipper issues so I can still use the kit.

this was probably the best publicity stunt I've seen pulled in a minute. Create enough of a mini panic, that sales probably spiked once he re-opened.

#184 2 years ago

I always order the large header pins and cut them to fit what ever size I need.

#185 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

so I figured since I was waiting on header parts I would go ahead and rebuild the flippers... nope... marco's kit is for newer DE games. I see where they even posted the TB from Sega/Stern about the parts needed for rebuilds but, I guess it was just an oversite from the manufacturer. Pinball Life's kit actually matches what is installed on my machine http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3525 luckily (I guess) my SP sounds like it's having some flipper issues so I can still use the kit.

Here's a picture of the Marco kit I recently ordered for BTTF. Only differences I see are the EOS switches included and the return springs are the newer style that link to the bracket, where as the pinball life kit includes both spring options and no EOS switches.

BTTF_Marco_Flipper_Kit (resized).jpg

#186 2 years ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Here's a picture of the Marco kit I recently ordered for BTTF. Only differences I see are the EOS switches included and the return springs are the newer style that link to the bracket, where as the pinball life kit includes both spring options and no EOS switches.

yeah, the springs that go over the plunger links are the parts I'm missing that come with pinball life's kit.

#187 2 years ago

After a long search I managed to join the club twice in the past few months

20506977_10213981796403755_5237477206202563529_o (resized).jpg

#188 2 years ago

Anyone interested in joining the club send me a PM.

#189 2 years ago
Quoted from skywelker:

After a long search I managed to join the club twice in the past few months

showoff

It's obvious that there are some lighting shadows playing games but, is the original blue really THAT much darker than the retro refurb decals?

#190 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

It's obvious that there are some lighting shadows playing games but, is the original blue really THAT much darker than the retro refurb decals?

Yeah, the blue on the decals is a good bit lighter than the original paint. Printing difficulties with blue supposedly. I think it has more to do with blue being difficult to scan...

IMHO, the blue difference is far less of an issue than the graphics design flaws under the second U and the arrow tails in the source imaging they use.

#191 2 years ago
Quoted from skywelker:

After a long search I managed to join the club twice in the past few months

So you bought comment23's restored bttf, then bought another (or reverse order)? I assume you're not keeping both.

#192 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

showoff
It's obvious that there are some lighting shadows playing games but, is the original blue really THAT much darker than the retro refurb decals?

Yes they are lighter, but the angle is not helping in that pic. I'll see if I can grab a better one showing the differences. I'm sure there were variations in the production from data east as well. I noticed one of the machines used leaf switches for the flippers and the other used microswitches and I'm pretty sure they are both original.

#193 2 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

So you bought comment23's restored bttf, then bought another (or reverse order)? I assume you're not keeping both.

Reverse order, I am keeping the one I got from comment23 and selling the other.

#194 2 years ago

Am I really the only one that doesn't like the powder coating on that bttf? To each their own though.

#195 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Am I really the only one that doesn't like the powder coating on that bttf? To each their own though.

I'm with you. Orange is such a hard color to pull off. I don't think I have seen any machine with orange powder that I like.

I had to get the volcano ramp on my Congo coated three times because I didn't like the orange color. Finally got the lava look.

#196 2 years ago
Quoted from mtlpin:

Full repro set should be available for everyone soon. All I can say right now

Any updates on the repro plastics?

#197 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Am I really the only one that doesn't like the powder coating on that bttf? To each their own though.

I wonder what Delorean silver trim and legs would look like...

#198 2 years ago

If someone has the cash to spend. I would love to see what the game looks like with everything chromed.

#199 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

If someone has the cash to spend. I would love to see what the game looks like with everything chromed.

I thought about doing that with my Bally Harley Davidson......and adding a set of pipes. Lol

#200 2 years ago

I know it's all a matter of opinion, but seeing it in person Adam really nailed the color match on the orange. I don't know how it would look on an original darker cabinet, but it is stunning with the brighter blue of the retro refurb cabinet decals. The fade to yellow looks better than I had even hoped for once I got it, but straight orange would have looked good too.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 40.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
$ 14.50
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
From: $ 16.95
3,500
Machine - For Sale
Lehigh Valley, PA
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 24.00
From: $ 19.99
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 8,500.00
Pinball Machine
PinballSTAR Amusements
$ 5,799.00
Pinball Machine
Operation Pinball
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
From: $ 5.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Medisinyl Mods
$ 40.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
$ 209.99
There are 357 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 8.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside