Try reseating your board ribbon cables and make sure they are not a row off

Is that your c8?

Pinball Basement board?

Try reseating J101 and J114 power connectors on the big power driver board, and J210 on the CPU board. Any burning/discoloration on the J101 connector housing?

Look at Pinwiki and check what the 3 x LEDs are doing on your MPU - they will tell you if it is booting or not.

If the MPU doesn't boot nothing will work.

Time to see pictures of the thr boards with the game on.

This is the same exact thing that happened to one of my games. I swapped out the main board and it powered right on. I put the old board back and the error was still there. So the issue is somewhere on the main board imo.

Sorry I can't be more help than that.

In your last picture, see that big black ASIC chip shaped like a square...? Give a soft but firm press in the middle and gently press around the edge of it. My JM acted up like this and that was the source.

Another source could be the varistor within the power box (where the main switch is to fire up BSD). My CFTBL had a bad one, and I swapped it out. That was that.

This here. Start with the easy things first. I'm surprised noone have mentioned yet that a visual inspection of fuses is highly unreliable.

You need to remove at least one end from the fuse holder and measure continuity with a multimeter. A fuse can look visually ok but still be broken. I wouldn't do anything else before knowing 100% that all fuses are fine.

If fuses turn out ok, measure voltage at the different test points to see which pcb have problems.

Take the fuse out

Set it to the continuity test at 5 o'clock -> |

Touch each probe to each end of the fuse at the same time, if your meter beeps (or has that ability you will hear it buzz) you're good, if it doesnt have the beep you can also validate continuity by seeing a value on the meter.

first mistake, get a meter test them.

Pretty sure that particular meter does not have an audible test. You'll need to set it to "200" at nearly the 6 O'clock position (that would be ohms measuring from 0 to 200 ohms). Anything above 50.0 or so indicates the fuse is bad.

I think you seriously need to look carefully at your lack of electronic skills and employ someone to sort the problem out.

Honestly, if you can't use a multimeter what hope do you seriously think you have finding a problem?

It is so easy to cause hundreds of dollars damage without even realising it.

Please search You-Tube for dozens of tutorials on using a multimeter because it isn't just about setting the meter, it is about how to interpret the results the meter gives you.

That red area with the green symbol at 5 o'clock is a diode tester. He needs to put it at the 200 at the 6 o'clock position and look for either a 0 (good) or whatever that meter displays for infinite ohms.

I'd seriously consider getting a different meter with an audible continuity test.

Yep I was totally wrong on that, my bad OP.
For some reason I thought that was the continuity setting.

Or.....we could help him learn and diagnose issues and help empower him moving forward.

Since all the LEDs are lit that supposed to be, that tells me there are no blown fuses. Just because the LEDs are lit, doesn't mean these are all good voltages.

The 5 volts is very important to measure as to know if the game is not booting up because the voltage is too low. Set your meter to the 20VDC setting and wedge your black lead under the ground braid wire at the bottom of the backbox. Turn the game on. Then you have one free hand to measure the 5volt test point on the driver board at TP2 and then also measure at C31 + side marked by the arrow. Normally, should only see a slight 0.03V difference between these 2 points. Can you post what you see on both measurements? I hope you see at least 4.94v at C31. pasted_image (resized).png

So when you say D20 on the CPU board is blinking, is it blinking about every half a second?

Is this only after it has been on a while? Is that when it goes into attract mode? These symptoms usually are a sign of a low 5 volts.

So I am afraid that I do see some battery alkaline (not acid) damage on the CPU board. Even though there is damage here, this very likely would not cause the game to boot as it is not a severe case of damage. At worse from what I see here is that you would have some switches not working. But the board still will need to be repaired properly.

pasted_image (resized).png

Is the new CPU board from Pinball Basement? If so, I'm afraid I would not put that in at this time as their quality has not been great so far. I hate to put that into the mix right now.

It is best to get the game booting and playing before deciding what to do with this original CPU board.

OP, the DC voltage setting is the one with a "V" and two horizontal, parallel lines - one will be solid and the other will be dotted. Do not put it on the "V" with a single wavy line next to it. That is "AC" voltage and rarely used in a machine for diagnosis.

Try to unplug your sound board and then power on.

So the first part sounds like the MPU booted up.

Try these things..
Measure the 5 volts on the Driver and CPU boards, as previously mentioned
With the game off, press on all the IC socketed parts on the CPU board and reseat all the ribbon cables at all the connections.
Try the game again.

I just missed posting my previous statement before seeing your 5 colt measurement.

Wow. That is too low. Can you retest them again after reseating J101?

If it is still low, I believe BR2 bridge rectifier needs to be changed on the driver board.

Just easier to remove J114 on.the left side of the driver board and retest TP2. If any board is loading down 5volts, that will tell you.

Have another driver board you can test in the game? At least you will be able to test the rest of the game.

Time to gave the board repaired. Anyone you know works on boards and can change BR2, C2, C7 and the other capacitor above F101 to F105?

Yeah, I would definitely hold out on.the CPU board swap until the game boots with a good 5volts. That way you can tell there was a problem with any of the parts you may had transferred over to the new CPU board.

Makes things easier to identify an issue taking small steps.

The two position ribbon from the MPU to the DMD controller is backwards. The red stripe position on the ribbon should match the other ribbon that connects from MPU to FlipTronics to Sound to DMD controller.

Flip that ribbon and let’s see what happens.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

PinballManiac40 i think you might mean BR2 (maybe), C2, C4, and C5, right?
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

I saw that too, but it looks like the ribbon is plugged in backward on both ends, which won't cause a problem.

It's still good advice... plug the darned cables in right!

The tiny '2' on the display board is an indication for the stripe side of the cable should be on the top. On the CPU your stripe should be to the left to match the other cable.

Yep. You are right.
Oops.

C5 and C11 look a little "domed" to me.
C5 doesn't dome usually.
But C11 can dome if coil and flasher connectors are misplaced.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info