One thing of interest that I've never seen done before is this.
Why? A lot of effort went into doing this to just about every coil drive wire in the game. Cut, spliced in much heavier gauge copper wire and heatshink applied to every joint, all very neatly and methodically. Looks like it might have been done in the factory, as all the original cable ties are still in place. Why this was done, I have no idea.
Soldered the wiring harness to these this morning and have them installed and adjusted the switch contact gap.
Waiting on some solder lugs to arrive, so that I can connect the new style pop bumper lamp sockets to the wiring harness, then tidy up the wiring loom.
Then I got side tracked with these boards. The electrolytic capacitors on the 24 opto board, associated with the mist magnet had passed their used by date and leaked electrolyte onto the board.
Once again, I forgot to take 'before' pictures in my haste to clean the boards. You can see one of the 35V 100uF capacitors and the inductor sitting beside the 24 opto board.
If you look closely you can see the remains of the leaked electrolyte (yellow) on the surface of the capacitors.
Just as well I removed the inductor, a previous botched repair job and the poor soldering attracted my attention. One leg of the inductor is very short and I doubt it made contact with the solder pad on the board. I've ordered a new one and hope to see it arrive later this week.
Thanks to DavidWhite81 who was kind enough to bring to my attention that I had this metal ball guide (marked with the yellow dot) installed the wrong way around. It would have been a nightmare to get at later. Thanks mate!
The capacitors arrived, still waiting on the inductor for the 24 Opto board. Few minutes spare today to do a bit more, capacitors installed and the 10 Opto board mounted and connected.
Thanks. A few small jobs to finish under the playfield and then I'll set it aside and concentrate on installing the internal cabinet hardware, before loading the playfield back into the cabinet.
Thanks for your detailed posts mate, Will really help me put mine back together soon.
mrm_4 As soon as the weather improved here last year, my spare time was consumed constructing this gazebo beside our pool. More work to do yet, flooring, railing, path, steps and integration with the glass fencing. When the weather drops away which won't be long, I'll get back into my BSD project. I'm really looking forward to getting stuck in again as it's been a while. Will post updates when I return to it. Thanks for your interest.
This project has kept me busy for a long time now. North and south sides have glass panels installed below the ledge. West side has thin profile corrugated colourbond below the ledge. Next step is to manufacture some shutters with gas lift struts to enclose the west side from the prevailing winds and rain in the winter and hinge open in the summer to allow more light and airflow through. Whilst I'm waiting for more supplies to arrive, I decided it was time to do some more on my BSD today.
The last job to do on the playfield before it goes back into the cabinet is to connect the pop bumper lamps to the wiring harness. I've been a long time admirer of the awesome work that from Chris at HEP does and picked up this tip from him. When soldering the newer style pop bumper lamp sockets to the wiring harness it's much easier to solder the wires to a lug, then screw the lug to the underside of the playfield using a short screw. No more burnt fingers and a much neater job, thanks Chris.
To keep the job away from other components and not melt any insulation on nearby wiring, I speared a piece of cardboard with a wooden skewer, placed the lug over that and then pushed the skewer into a nearby wiring bundle to hold it steady whilst soldering the wires to the lug. Screwed into place on the playfield.
Tubing in place under the pop bumper mechs for added protection to the pop bumper lamp insulation. Even though I sanded the underside of the playfield clean, you can still see where the original factory staples were that held the flat straps of the pop bumper lamp sockets in place.
Finally, after a very long time away from this project, the playfield is ready to go back into the cabinet. A milestone moment.
Time to spend a bit of time on the cabinet. A thin spray of flat black acrylic applied to hide the more obvious battle scars on the inner faces of the cabinet above the playfield level and it's ready to install the inner hardware and wiring harnesses. I decided some time back that I wasn't going to restore the cabinet at this stage, mainly due to being time poor and now it's the middle of winter here in south east Australia, definitely not conducive to that kind of job, I pressed on.
It does look better to the eye than it appears in the photos. Although I must admit after all the work on the playfield, it's with some regret I'm not able to bring the cabinet up as it deserves. Hopefully sometime in the future I'll get the opportunity to do it justice.
Some of the cabinet hardware is now installed and the two lower cabinet wiring harnesses are in place.
All the hardware has been cleaned and reinstalled.
The cabinet speaker will most likely be replaced, a new speaker grill is in place for when the time comes.
Here's another conundrum I faced when restoring this game, rust or the scarring it left behind when treated. Some of the metal items that I couldn't replace need to be replated or painted. Another job for the future when time allows. I need to learn how to replate metal, but unfortunately now's not the time.
The powerbox is all done and the service outlet removed as it's useless here down under. I'll install a plastic plug into the hole before powering up the game.
Powerbox installed back into the cabinet.
Main power wiring run through the cable supports and the power socket screwed back into place.
New flipper opto boards sitting in the cabinet inside their antistatic bags. Sometime before I bought the game the originals were harvested along with most of the board set in the backbox.
Two milestones in one day! The playfield is inserted onto its pegs, the rear brackets, hangers and rests will go on tomorrow. Then the topside rebuild can continue once I've cleaned up and reinstalled the transformer. Really looking forward to starting on the topside rebuild. At least it's starting to look like a pinball machine again!
Last job before calling it quits for the day, the start and ball launch buttons are installed. I'd like to be able to buy new pieces for these two, without having to buy the whole assembly. The launch button really needs a new red cover as this one is cracked and glued back together.As you can see the red has almost completely faded away, shame as the rest of the colours look good.
The infamous label finally removed. Nice of the person that did the mod to label it. Will have to rejumper this one for 230V operation.
All done, wiring and plugs cleaned and is now ready to install back into the cabinet.
Back to the playfield and getting closer to the final few topside parts fitting into place. My order of lexan washers arrived, allowing the rebuild to progress. Some are installed to protect the plastics and others are in place to ensure the plastic stays flat and doesn't twist.
Wire crossover ramp installed. The mounting hardware is fitted, but not tightened as some wiggling will be required to fit it to the large plastic ramp when the time comes.
A quick tour around the playfield showing the lower mountain cave installed and the curved wire ramp.
Next up is the large plastic ramp which needs a really good clean and a new ramp flap.
All cleaned up with a new ramp flap made and installed. Ready to go back onto the playfield.
It's really coming together now with the ramp installed. Just a few small parts left to go, the lamp board above the coffin, the flipper bats and rubbers. Looking forward to reassembling the backbox and powering it all up for the first time in a long time.
Quoted from Pinballer73:
The playfield disassembly process begins. Hopefully it helps others reassemble their game one day. Removing the playfield scenery to access the ramps for removal. As we progress keep your eye out andvtry to spot the lost ball.
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This is a great helpful thread! I have a BSD that I am shopping right now, and found the same lost ball in the same spot.
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