One thing of interest that I've never seen done before is this.
Why? A lot of effort went into doing this to just about every coil drive wire in the game. Cut, spliced in much heavier gauge copper wire and heatshink applied to every joint, all very neatly and methodically. Looks like it might have been done in the factory, as all the original cable ties are still in place. Why this was done, I have no idea.
Soldered the wiring harness to these this morning and have them installed and adjusted the switch contact gap.
Waiting on some solder lugs to arrive, so that I can connect the new style pop bumper lamp sockets to the wiring harness, then tidy up the wiring loom.
Then I got side tracked with these boards. The electrolytic capacitors on the 24 opto board, associated with the mist magnet had passed their used by date and leaked electrolyte onto the board.
Once again, I forgot to take 'before' pictures in my haste to clean the boards. You can see one of the 35V 100uF capacitors and the inductor sitting beside the 24 opto board.
If you look closely you can see the remains of the leaked electrolyte (yellow) on the surface of the capacitors.
Just as well I removed the inductor, a previous botched repair job and the poor soldering attracted my attention. One leg of the inductor is very short and I doubt it made contact with the solder pad on the board. I've ordered a new one and hope to see it arrive later this week.
Thanks to DavidWhite81 who was kind enough to bring to my attention that I had this metal ball guide (marked with the yellow dot) installed the wrong way around. It would have been a nightmare to get at later. Thanks mate!
The capacitors arrived, still waiting on the inductor for the 24 Opto board. Few minutes spare today to do a bit more, capacitors installed and the 10 Opto board mounted and connected.
Thanks. A few small jobs to finish under the playfield and then I'll set it aside and concentrate on installing the internal cabinet hardware, before loading the playfield back into the cabinet.
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