(Topic ID: 245328)

BSD restoration - a real project


By Pinballer73

9 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 267 posts
  • 33 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by pintechev
  • Topic is favorited by 28 Pinsiders

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There are 267 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 6.
#51 9 months ago

Old rusty ball and the rear ball guide removed. I might list the ball on eBay for maximum profit.
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#52 9 months ago

Back to the left hand side.

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#53 9 months ago

Quick change to the right side.

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#54 9 months ago

Back to the top. Getting dizzy yet?

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#55 9 months ago

The next ball guide being removed.

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#56 9 months ago

No turning back now! Time to stop and survey the playfield in more detail. Hopefully some areas will look much better once the playfield gets a good cleaning. Look mum, no hands...ahhh...I mean no flipper opto boards.
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#57 9 months ago

Just before I begin to remove the last of parts mounted on the topside, lets take one last trip around the playfield to see the where the various types of posts & screws are located.
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#58 9 months ago

All the parts removed so far.

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#59 9 months ago

More stuff to list on eBay, some may even work. Strictly no refunds.

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#60 9 months ago

No much left now. Anyone want a partially disassembled project??

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#61 9 months ago

Now to remove those painful jet bumper assemblies. Over the years my tolerance with the lamp holders has dropped significantly. I just cut the flat strap, leaving the rest connected to the wiring harness for later reference. The sockets are cheap and this way is far less painful than burning your finger tips or melting the insulation on nearby wiring with a soldering iron.

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#62 9 months ago

They're out! You beauty!! If you haven't already guessed, I despise the removal process for some reason.
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#63 9 months ago

Same goes for the wiring to each solenoid coil. Once upon a time, I'd cut and tape, then label each one. Now I just use the solenoid chart from the manual to determine which wire connectors where when reassembling. Much less work than pissing about with bits of tape and marking pens.
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#64 9 months ago

I didn't take photos of each of the major assemblies being removed, didn't see the point or benefit really, they only go in one way.

Here is two photos showing how some items must be removed before you can access the mounting screws of others. I wonder what initial headaches this caused on the assembly line? Perhaps none and it's just us crazy people that rebuild these games that curse each and every time they've put an assembly in place before realizing it's got to come out again to get the right one in first!
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#65 9 months ago

Well that's all the top mounted parts removed, well all but one. I don't like removing these wire guides unless it's absolutely necessary. The damage that can be caused to the surrounding playfield just isn't worth the risk.

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#66 9 months ago

Now to remove the screws holding each switch assembly to the rear of the playfield. I like to do this before starting to clean the topside. It's very easy to snag the switch wire actuator and do it damage.

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#67 9 months ago

Well that's all the major game specific assemblies removed from the bottom of the playfield.

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#68 9 months ago

For all the dodgy repairs you've seen so far, at least this is a good idea. Someone that converted the wiring to run at 218V thought to label their work for future reference. Can anyone translate the first word for me? Obviously something stating it has been modified. This will need to be configured for 230V AC operation when the rebuild begins.
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#69 9 months ago

Time to take a good look at the topside of the playfield during the first cleaning pass to remove the loose dirt and grime.
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#70 9 months ago

Remember that rusty ball trail? It's almost gone now after a clean. Hopefully the next stage thorough clean and polish with Novus 2 will remove it altogether.
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#71 9 months ago

That's the topside clean of loose dirt and grime. What remains requires a much more thorough clean to remove.
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#72 9 months ago

Most of the major under playfield assemblies removed for cleaning and assessment to determine what new parts are required for the rebuild.

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#73 9 months ago

Well that's it, I'm set for life! I've called work and let them know I won't be in for my next shift on Thursday, as this morning I found 4 coins in the cabinet from at least 2 countries. 1 EURO dollar, two 500 LIRA Italian coins and 1 American quarter. This game has been to at least 3 countries that I know about, with 4 journeys over the oceans.
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#74 9 months ago

Well, these photos of disassembly is a treasure (especially to a purist like me who wants to know what & where every little washer, screw and nut goes).
In this photo below is the power wiring diagram. This will help you with the 230V conversion (I think this is correct for australia). You need the H-17837-3 jumper scheme. (Note that I had to scale down the photo because pinside won't let me upload it)
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I have another question regarding those large washers at the slingshots. Were these under, or over the slingshot plastics? Or maybe the plastic was "sandwiched" from both over and under with washers? And what part # (or diameter) are all the washers of the slingshots?
Also, don't forget me about coin door original currency and registration card scan!
Thanks!

#75 9 months ago

Thank goodness Kerry Stair at Mantis Pinball has reproduced the weldmets for this game. Check out this for a welding job! , Structurally sound, could probably drive over it and not change the shape. However, it looks terrible and will be replaced.
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#76 9 months ago
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#77 9 months ago

Looks great! following love BSD!

#78 9 months ago
Quoted from provato:

Well, these photos of disassembly is a treasure (especially to a purist like me who wants to know what & where every little washer, screw and nut goes).

Glad you are able to put them to good use.

Quoted from provato:

In this photo below is the power wiring diagram. This will help you with the 230V conversion (I think this is correct for australia). You need the H-17837-3 jumper scheme. (Note that I had to scale down the photo because pinside won't let me upload it)
[quoted image]

Thank you, yes that's the diagram from the schematics booklet that I will be using to configure the wiring at the plug for 230V operation.

Quoted from provato:

I have another question regarding those large washers at the slingshots. Were these under, or over the slingshot plastics? Or maybe the plastic was "sandwiched" from both over and under with washers?

Post, washer then plastic. Under the plastic and on top of the post.

Quoted from provato:

And what part # (or diameter) are all the washers of the slingshots?

I'll measure them for you next chance I get and report back. I doubt they are factory installed. I've never seen them installed from the factory for this era of machine. Anyone know for sure?

Quoted from provato:

Also, don't forget me about coin door original currency and registration card scan!
Thanks!

Haven't forgotten, when I get to the coin door I'll remove the additional labels and take a photo for you.

The registration card is standard WMS. Are you sure you want a copy? Happy to do so, however it's nothing special.

#79 9 months ago

Yes, I need a good scan in 600 dpi of this registration card.
Also yes, these big washers appear in other bsd and wcs94 machines I’ve seen. In some machines they are installed over the plastic, in other machines over it... They are also described in the official part lists (ipdb).

#80 9 months ago
Quoted from Pinballer73:

Well that's it, I'm set for life! I've called work and let them know I won't be in for my next shift on Thursday, as this morning I found 4 coins in the cabinet from at least 2 countries. 1 EURO dollar, two 500 LIRA Italian coins and 1 American quarter. This game has been to at least 3 countries that I know about, with 4 journeys over the oceans.
[quoted image]

That last one isn't an American quarter. Just FYI. Might be a 100 Lire... Loving all the restore photos. Great work.

#81 9 months ago

Following, working on a BSD of my own so good timing.

#82 9 months ago
Quoted from Pinballer73:

The playfield disassembly process begins. Hopefully it helps others reassemble their game one day. Removing the playfield scenery to access the ramps for removal. As we progress keep your eye out andvtry to spot the lost ball.
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That's funny, I think I have a ball stuck in that exact spot...

#84 9 months ago
Quoted from poppapin:

That's funny, I think I have a ball stuck in that exact spot...

I tried it today. If you lift the playfield with a ball in the Castle Lock, it makes a beeline down (up?) the ramp and towards that area. If you can get it to bounce just right...

#85 9 months ago

Evaporust is your friend

#86 9 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Great idea! This will turn out great. I am curious how you
Found this at Coin-op warehouse? I live close to that place and I can NEVER find pinball there.

They have pinball there from time to time, as soon as they get one in its posted on Facebook and gets sold in minutes

#87 9 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

Evaporust is your friend

Will pickup some later today and try it out for the first time, thanks.

#88 9 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

That last one isn't an American quarter. Just FYI. Might be a 100 Lire... Loving all the restore photos. Great work.

Just had another look, this time wearing my glasses lol. Repvbblica Italiana L.50 or 50 LIRA. Well spotted!

#89 9 months ago

Pinballer73, your my Pinside hero. Thank you so much!

#90 9 months ago

Such a fun project on such a cool game. That playfield will shine up nice, looks to be the sun process version which is probably why it didn’t plank with all the moisture this game has seen judging by the rust everywhere

I would just replace all the rusty hardware. My BSD came out of a pizza place and was kinda gross so that’s why I did.

BSD fun fact: there was only one release of game code as they got it right the first time.

#91 9 months ago

Here you go provato how's the condition of the warranty card, is it acceptable to you? If so, please send me a PM with your email address and I'll forward you both sides in 600 dpi.

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#92 9 months ago
Quoted from PNBLWZD:

I would just replace all the rusty hardware.

I hope to make that call today. Picked up some plastic containers and Evaporust yesterday. Depending on the results, I may need to do as you suggest and buy some new hardware. All depends if the plating has been damaged by the rust, I expect some will definitely need to be replaced. The game appears to have sat a long time, being robbed of parts and exposed without a playfield glass.

#93 9 months ago

Let the Evaporust experiment begin! As most of this hardware was borderline or completely unusable, I decided on a boots & all approach. The instructions state to wait half an hour before inspecting, rinsing and a possible 2nd dunk.
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#94 9 months ago

Looks like there are several size rubber post sleeves in the game, including some tapered ones. Will have to check the manual to see if the tapered ones are listed as standard.
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#95 9 months ago
Quoted from Pinballer73:

Let the Evaporust experiment begin! As most of this hardware was borderline or completely unusable, I decided on a boots & all approach. The instructions state to wait half an hour before inspecting, rinsing and a possible 2nd dunk.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Good stuff! Your hardware isn't that bad I imagine it'll give you some great results. Check my restoration threads, I use evaporust wherever I find rust and it does great! People seem to use tumblers but I've never gotten good results out of it. Just a mess cleaning up the screw heads!

#96 9 months ago

Don't put hardware in over night.

#97 9 months ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Don't put hardware in over night.

Agreed, I only do this for real nasty hardware.

#98 9 months ago

All hail the magic liquid !!

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#99 9 months ago

Thanks for the upload of the registration card! Your scan is great. I sent you my e-mail address in pm.

Evaporust and other liquids are good for rust removal, but glassbeating your parts in a sandblasting booth and then polishing them with a spiral sewn wheel + compound is the best option.

Experience with metal has tought me that the right mechanical way is always better than the best chemical way to restore metal parts.

#100 9 months ago

No problems, I'll scan it at 600 dpi and send it to you.

I tend to agree with your comments on cleaning metal. Overall I had terrific results with more than 3/4 of the hardware cleaned today coming out really nice..

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There are 267 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 6.

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