(Topic ID: 261712)

BSD Repaired. Here are my repair notes.

By PumRibby

6 days ago

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#1 6 days ago

Hi! I just posted my repair notes for the OXO I just finished. I wanted to share my repair notes for my Bram Stoker's Dracula that I worked on last year. We bought it in a package deal with a Johnny Mnemonic. The previous owner thought that only the left flipper was broken. How wrong he was. It was the first modern pin I worked on and with the help of the forum here, I fixed a ton of problems. Here is what I did, in case anyone else may need help.

Problem: Dead Left Flipper
Repair: Tested and replaced 3 blown fuses on FlipTronic board.

Problem: Disappearing post stuck up.
Repair: Replaced severely burned coil and sleeve on disappearing post. The coil sleeve had melted shut it was that bad. (SEE PICTURE)

Problem: Ball hitting underside of the ramp at launch.
Repair: Adjusted shooter coil to hit the ball more centered. Center Ramp Assembly partially obstructing shooter lane. Realigned.

Problem: Burned pin on J121
Repair: Replaced pins and double-checked solder. (SEE PICTURE)

Problem: Burned/ shorted transistor Q90
Repair: Replaced Transistor, burned again. Found Coffin Lock One bulb socket had a short inside from a metal ring that had separated from the fixture. Fixed it and replaced Q90 again. (SEE PICTURE)

Problem: Bad voltage Regulator
Repair: Replaced Voltage Regulator (duh)

Problem: Burned/ shorted transistor Q98.
Repair: Replaced transistor.

Problem: Left Sling Shot firing on its own.
Repair: All the switches for both slingshots were poorly adjusted without proper tools previously at some point. Bent them back and adjusted them as best I could with proper tools. (SEE PICTURE)

Problem: Column 6 grounding out.
Repair: (This one was actually my fault. Accidentally touched coil lug with machine off, of course, while adjusting poorly adjusted slingshot switches.) U20-13 shorted. Replaced soldered U20 chip with a socketed chip.

Problem: Ball falls back into the trough from shooter lane.
Repair: Adjusted tension on spring on Ball Shooter Lane Feeder so it doesn’t hit as hard.

Problem: Mist Multiball drops the ball down the center of the playfield.
Repair: Oh boy, this is a big one.
•Homepin 24” Opto version 1.2 that was installed was faulty. Replaced with the 1.4 version.
•Ball sitting too low to block optic on the right side. Adjusted metal plate that the ball rests against higher up the playfield.
•Light shield on left side opto found in the bottom of the cabinet. Replaced.
•Magnet losing power: Bad connection after the “phone cord” fixed.

Problem: Left ramp opto fluttering on and off.
Repair: Cleaned optics.

Problem: Lower Playfield GI lights (Yellow String) dim.
Repair: Measured only 4v at J115. Found continuity issue at 9 pin Molex from Transformer under Playfield. Repaired.

Problem: Wires falling out because not crimped properly on J120, J104, J115
Repair: Repinned wires.

Problem: Asylum/ Renfield Flasher not working.
Repair: Broken wire on Flasher fixed.

Problem: T.L. Ramp/ Mina flasher out.
Repair: Bulb Socket needed adjustment.

Problem: Ball getting stuck under the playfield.
Repair: Adjusted wire ramp ball popper out of the way to allow the ball to exit the lower left ramp assembly without hitting it.

Problem: Ball drains too much.
Repair: There is no fix for this. That’s just how it’s designed.

Problem: Game reset during gameplay. (Sometimes when both flippers hit at the same time.)
Repair: Replaced burned pins/connector and fixed a cold solder point at J101.

Problem: Phantom “Ground Short Row 1 is Stuck Closed” Affecting Startup, but doesn’t affect gameplay.
Repair: This was a pain. If the game had turned on after being off for a few hours to a day, this would happen. It would also say sometimes to check the switches in the left jet or some other fault until you started to play and then it would be fine and not show any errors in the test. I unplugged the wiring from the CPU and the fault went away. Then I checked each and every wire and switch in Row 1 and didn’t find anything. Then I noticed that sometimes it would take an even longer time to start up if the mist ball was in the left pocket. It couldn’t “see” it was there and kept trying to load a ball in the right pocket and would drop it out and repeat it a few times before it finally ejected the ball from the left pocket first and then reloaded the right pocket. This got me thinking to look at the 10 opto board, which I found to have corrosion on one of the diodes and a pretty heavy burn mark under the resistors. I cleaned it and re capped it. At first, there were a bunch of errors that came up. Not only Row 1, but now other Rows. However, the game still played fine. Then it seemed to “fix” itself. It started coming on without any faults. I still suspected the opto board to be a problem, so I bought a replacement Homepin version. The problem has not returned.

Problem: DMD flickering near the top and not fully lighting.
Repair: Bought a new DMD.

That's all for now. Thanks!

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