(Topic ID: 267050)

BSD long-opto needs time to warm up

By Zennmaster

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by hugepockets
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

Hello.

I was having the classic Mist issue where the magnet would run back and forth and the mist ball would not populate.
This thread was the exact issue I was having:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-ball-on-magnet-issue

After reading through that thread, I ordered the caps and the inductor mentioned in it with the intention of replacing L1, C7 and C10 on the 24 opto board. While I was waiting, I cleaned both ends of the opto switch with q-tips and window cleaner. That got switch 82 to work in test, and Mist would work perfectly for about 1 game, then the issue returned. This worked a few times, but always reverted shortly.

Today I got the caps and the choke, replaced them, and also re-flowed all the header pins on the 24 opto board.

Now at bootup, the problem remains, but after about 2-3 minutes everything seems to work just fine, and as long as the game stays on, everything works just like it's supposed to. As a test, I shut the game down and let it cool, then started it up and immediately put it into switch test on 82. It started off solid "open", then after a couple of minutes started "chattering" closed, and eventually settled down and started working correctly.

If I do a "quick reboot" just letting the game sit off for a few seconds, it comes back on working fine, which makes me think there is something that needs to literally "warm up" to an operating temperature in order to work properly. Any idea what I should be looking at?

More data: at "cold boot" I am seeing approximately 15VDC at the header pins of J118 on the driver board with the connector removed, so no load. For a 12V unregulated line, this seems fine to me.

I also saw this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-dracula-mist-opto-intermittent-
and this one:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aligning-bsd-mist-optos

But in both cases the OP never followed up as to what ended up working.

Thanks!

#2 1 year ago

Update: After a couple of hours, it looks like the long opto has quit again. I have verified that the 15VDC that I was seeing at J118 on the driver board is making it to the opto board, and using zaza's resistor test as outlined in this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-mist-woes-long-beam-opto , I get a "jittery" signal when shorting the pins on J1 and J2, but I get a solid signal at any time by using a diode to short pins 1 and 3 on J3. This suggests to me that the wiring under the playfield is very likely fine. Now I'm looking at the connectors on the board, and really, really dreading having to replace the opto (I am mostly concerned about trying to get it aligned, and I am also finding some conflicting information as to whether the transmitter and receiver are a different part than a "normal" opto).

1 week later
#3 1 year ago

Update: Replaced the 24 opto board with a Homepin board. Right at boot the switch worked, and an hour or so into testing it looks solid. I'll work on the old board and see if I can restore it, but it appears that the problem has been solved.

2 months later
#4 1 year ago

I am having the same issue. Replacing C10 and D3 on the 24 opto board got it working for me, but it needs time to warm up for some reason. Just like yours after a couple of minutes it works fine. Did you ever figure out the issue with the original board?

#5 1 year ago

Replace the caps that filter the dc voltage. I had one that measured fine on the board, but crapped out under load. When removed it from the board, you could see it had puked.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

Update: Replaced the 24 opto board with a Homepin board. Right at boot the switch worked, and an hour or so into testing it looks solid. I'll work on the old board and see if I can restore it, but it appears that the problem has been solved.

I was going to say just replace it with the homepin as that's what I did but you beat me to it!

At any rate, the problem with my original board was that the choke/inductor/whatever that is (almost a decade since I did it) the pads were just gone from previous repairs. It wasn't expensive to get the homepin (IIRC I bought it as a kit) and swap it in, boom, perfect mist.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from hugepockets:

I am having the same issue. Replacing C10 and D3 on the 24 opto board got it working for me, but it needs time to warm up for some reason. Just like yours after a couple of minutes it works fine. Did you ever figure out the issue with the original board?

Not yet. Since the replacement board worked perfectly, repairing the old board got a severe demotion in priority. I do plan to get to it eventually, and I will probably end up shotgunning it, and just replace everything until it works.

1 week later
#8 1 year ago

Just an update from me. I replaced the L1 inductor and the other C7 capacitor for good measure. Fixed my problem. Everything works 100%. For reference, the inductor was kinda tricky to find the right one. Found some info on another forum post. I got one from mouser. 11P-103J-50 Fastron Fixed Inductors RF CHOKE 10mH 5%.

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