(Topic ID: 69243)

BSD Dracula reset issue


By systemlcp

5 years ago



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  • 5 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Big70
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

Seems to happen at least once when it first is turned on then after its warmed up the only definite trigger is hitting both flippers at once.
Only hack I noticed on it was the slam tilt switch was cut, rewired it and it works now.
Attached is a pic of the switch matrix.
Error on start usually for castle optos and manget, though the magnet seems to work in test mode. (have the homepin board for that once I'm convinced I don't have a power problem.)
Plan is to work through this article if no one has a more direct recommendation:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets
photo.JPG.jpeg
thanks in advance.

#2 5 years ago

I would go through the normal reset section on Pinwiki and not worry so much about the warming up part.

A reset is a reset.

LTG : )

#3 5 years ago

Going through the Pinwiki article is precisely what you should do.

The only thing that I can think of COULD be indicated by the fact that it's apparently only doing it while cold is that it could be a bad thermistor. That said, I had the same issue (got worse over the course of a couple months) and thought I thought it was the thermistor, it turned out to be connectors. You'll fare much better using that approach than trying to shotgun it.

Only thing you *might* want to do differently is check for voltage difference on the 5v line between the CPU and driver board within the first few steps.

#4 5 years ago

I haven't been back to work on it but here are the notes of what he (the owner) did so far:

It's working with two flippers, full game and no resets. Right now my suspicion is with the thermistor based on this from the doc:

Resetting while the game warms up is therefore a key indicator of a failing thermistor.

I went through what testing I felt comfortable doing (will document that in a bit) and the last step I did was 4.8.11, checking the thermistor. It looked good but after reading about it I decided to try letting the game warm up. Right away I started a game and made an effort to use only one flipper at a time. Soon enough I got into the game that I figured I had probably used both so I tested and sure enough there was no reset. I played several games, got mist to work a few times, coffin multiball, castle lock (sort of) and most everything else worked. Tomorrow I'll start it up and try both flippers right away to see if it resets before warming up. I'm hoping so since a thermistor failure sounds like it would be the nicest point of failure.

Right now the only credit dot error is Switch 44 - Trough 4 Balls. Makes sense since it still seems to lose track. When a ball is in the castle lock it doesn't know what to do and has to search.

Everything I checked looked good according to the doc:
Line voltage: 122

Checked screws on PDB

Replaced the four 3A SB fuses. The old ones were each good but had some corrosion (though the fuse holder looked fine) that could have interfered but a test after that wasn't any better.

Reseated all connections on PDB. Didn't see anything obviously loose/corroded. One weird thing I noticed is that J116 and J118 have the same colored wires and same key so they'd be easy to get swapped. Since they are simply providing 12v and ground maybe it doesn't matter. J116 is for the coin door and J118 is for the 10 Sw. Opto board.

4.8.9 TP2 was 4.99 volts and the ROM's 32 pin was 4.97.
4.8.10 Rectifier was between 8.3 and 9 and the cap was between .505 and .562

I didn't pull the PDB since I don't trust I could recognize bad solder points anyway.

After all of this I still saw resets and then I unplugged and checked the thermistor but didn't make any changes.

Next day:
Well, unfortunately BSD worked without trouble immediately after starting this morning, meaning I can't necessarily blame the thermistor. I then swapped outlets in the power strip (since I had unplugged it at one point so maybe it had moved) but couldn't find one to cause resets. On the first start there did seem to be a delay in the DMD displaying where I thought it was resetting but didn't really seem to. I'll keep watching for resets/oddness.

#5 5 years ago

Reset problems on WPC pins prior to WPC95 are almost always in 1 of 2 places. Either your connector J101 on your driver board. They can get hot and become crispy like GI plugs do. In that case replace both the male and female part of the connector. Or could be a bad solder joint on the male pins of the connector.

Even more often than that, the resets are usually caused by a failing bridge rectifier BR2 and its associated cap C5 on the driver board. bad solder joints or spotty continuity between them can also give the issue. But I'm sure it's been a long time since those were replaced, so just pull the driver and replace them both. You can get those form Pinball Life for $1.75 (35 amp 200 volt bridge) and $2.50 (15000 uf @ 35 volt cap). Biggest thing after you replace those is to use your meter to make sure you've got continuity between the + lead of BR2 and the C5 and the - lead of each. Run a jumper wire between the + of each and - of each on the solder side of the board. MAKE sure you are doing + to + and - to - so you don't damage anything. There are traces on both sides of the board and sometimes you don't get enough solder flow through the holes to reliably hit the top side traces. Running the jumpers insures you have good continuity between the two. I've had continuity before without a jumper, but just not good enough I guess and had to go back and run jumper wires. It's upsetting having to pull that driver board again to run jumper wires when you just had it off and could have done it the first time.

Replace BR2 and C5, run 2 jumper wires and that should clear your problem up.

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