You can just disconnect power to the MPU at J210. If F114 and F115 do not blow, then it should be an issue on the MPU.

Then do a resistance test, with power off on the game, on U20 across pins 9 and 10. If this is below 1 meg ohm, U20 is toast.

Yes. Sounds shorted.

I have to do some looking into the other issue since that is not ringing a bell with the other 2 fuses other than I think you may have to disconnect the ribbon cables from the CPU board, not just the J210. Sorry.

You were looking to see of F114 and F115 were blowing.

Can you replace U20 and reconnect everything?

The F104 and F105 may been because I did not tell you to pull the short ribbon cable off between the MPU and driver board sending false highs over to enable the coils that caused the F104 and F105 fuses to blow.

Do they any fuses blow with J210 plugged in with U20 removed? This will be a better test.

Excellent news so far.

Seems a good time to test the MPU switch inputs.

After putting the game into the switch edge test, unplug J206 to J209. Then jumper from J209 pin 1 to J207 pin1, 2, 3 to.8. If they register, then J209 pin 2 to J207 pin 1, 2 3 to 8. Want to do this for all the switches shown in the switch matrix chart. This will determine if it is a MPU board or not.

Yes. You can see the traces from J206 pin 1 to J207 pin 1, etc. Same with J208 and J209.

I am glad it looks like the CPU tests good.

There is a big 7-opto board with at least 4 connectors going to it mounted on the underside of the playfield. Can you remove that board to see whether the vertical mounted capacitor looks like it is wet underneath it? That is a sign it is leaking and is bad. Also look under the C2 on the driver board, which is on the left side of the board, to see if has been leaking.

Best to start a new repair thread. Include any work that was done previously to.the gamre failing and picture of the MPU.