(Topic ID: 125290)

BSD Castle Lock- releases ball immediately


By Kane

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by aobrien5
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 4 years ago

Just checked the other 9 BSD Castle Lock threads and none of them seemed to cover this issue.

Ball enters Castle and locks. New ball is sent to shooter lane. Shooter lane fires and Castle immediately releases locked ball giving a 2 ball multiball.

Is this an opto problem? I recently removed the whole ramp/castle assembly so something might have gotten screwed in the process.

#2 3 years ago

That's weird, not sure why it would do both. If it thought there was an extra ball in the castle it should just spit it out. Have you tested the optos yet? Digital camera for sender and bright flashlight for receiver.

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from Kane:

Ball enters Castle and locks. New ball is sent to shooter lane. Shooter lane fires and Castle immediately releases locked ball giving a 2 ball multiball.

I'd got into switch test, roll 1 ball, then a 2nd, then a 3rd into the castle opto board area and see what registers or doesn't? also, the balls may not be 'lining' up correctly for the opto board via the drop post position at the end of the ball guide. If you had reassembled the PF, 1/4 of an inch here or there can make all the difference for performance. BSD, the game you love to hate working on .

#4 3 years ago

Maybe also possible that the trough/shooter lane switches aren't registering properly. Check them all.

#5 3 years ago

Pretty sure that when I had this behavior it was a trough issue and not a castle lock opto issue. As Ballsofsteel suggested, head into test and check your castle lock optos. I'd go further and check all of your ball sensors, though (trough, castle, mist etc...).

#6 3 years ago

I had this same issue last year. Ball would lock properly most of the time. Then, after first ball was put in play, locked ball would release giving unearned two ball multiball.

At first it looked like the plate/ball guide the ball rests on when locked was loose and not holding the ball high enough on the playfield to adequately block the opto. Further inspection and testing revealed that the ball still was not being held high enough up the playfield to allow the ball to properly block the opto.

My solution was to place two strips of 3M double faced foam tape across the surface of the plate/ball guide the ball rests on when locked. They ended up pushing the ball higher up the playfield by about 1/8" and creating a positive block to the opto signal.

This may not be the solution for you but it is very easy to test with a piece of thin weather strip or cardboard or whatever to push the ball higher on the guide in the locked position.

Good luck and let us know the results of your testing.

***UPDATE *** My solution above was for a different problem. Glad no one saw it and called me out on it.

#7 3 years ago

Ok, diagnosed the problem. In switch test, 1st ball down ramp registers "Ball #2", Second ball "Ball #1" and Third "Ball #3". I've taken the assembly off the ramp (pictures). Did someone in the past just switch the wires when soldering in a new opto board or is this something else? If it's just a matter of switching the wires I presume it's A3 and A2 on the White side. (That's ball 1 & 2 opto)20150425_155503_resized.jpg20150425_155513_resized.jpg20150425_155536_resized.jpg

#8 3 years ago

Or would it be the Black, receiving side?

#9 3 years ago

Black is receiving. Maybe check the manual to verify wire colors for the 3 optos?

#10 3 years ago

the order on this PCB with orange-x wires seems to be ok, maybe somewhere else on 10-sw.optoboard switched wires ?

#11 3 years ago

Yeah, the wiring all looks original. Unfortunately I'm color blind so following wires back to the main board will be pretty much impossible. If I can get away with switching the wires on the receivers I would look to do that.

#12 3 years ago

Yes, colorblindness makes it pretty difficult, but in this case you might be able to see the difference between an orange-yellow and an orange-black wire, located on J2-4 and J2-5 on the 10sw. optoboard under the playfield and page 3-22 in the manual.

But yes, you can switch the wires on the 3-opto-PCB BLACK

BSD-castle-lock.jpg

#13 3 years ago

Awesome. Thanks zaza.

#14 3 years ago

REPAIRED-
Turns out that it is not the receiving, Black, side that needed to be switched but the White instead. When Black receiving wires were switched it still reported as Ball #2, Ball #1 then Ball #3 in that order. The repair was simple enough, I simply pulled the two wires from the Molex connector and swapped positions. I'm sure someone here can explain why it was the White sending unit that registered the change and not the receiver. I'm just happy that it's fixed.

#15 3 years ago

I'm also putting a note in the machine explaining the repair so that in the future there won't be any confusion if it's noticed further up the chain.

#16 3 years ago

This was covered in the main BSD thread:

My first inquiry into it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/35#post-1777112

Mentioning it again:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/35#post-1780071

And again:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/37#post-1831010

And again. This particular post explains EXACTLY what you had going on with your machine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/39#post-1872288

And finally my post explaining that is was due to the main opto board. Once replaced with one from Homepin, everything was all better:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/39#post-1872865

.

#17 3 years ago

NPO- You do know that there are 52 pages in that thread and over 2,500 posts. I'm sure it is full of great information but to wade through it can be difficult. I checked the dedicated threads 1st and didn't find anything. Maybe the thread should have a glossary like Vid1900 has.

Thanks for taking the time to point out again and again and again how I missed it. Soooo helpful.

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from Kane:

NPO- You do know that there are 52 pages in that thread and over 2,500 posts. I'm sure it is full of great information but to wade through it can be difficult. I checked the dedicated threads 1st and didn't find anything. Maybe the thread should have a glossary like Vid1900 has.
Thanks for taking the time to point out again and again and again how I missed it. Soooo helpful.

I'll say this:

Yeah, you're right, reading that post, I did come across as a dick. My bad on that one; I didn't stop and think about hwo that post read, and it did come across as arrogant and pompous.

I will also say that I spent time reading 36+ pages in that thread when I had my BSD, and I did it multiple times.

As far as the "helpful" part, I think my "thread creation" history speaks for itself: I do give back quite a bit in this community - 15 fixed threads and one "how to" thread. That being said, things can also be improved constantly, and when I fixed the 2-1-3 Castle Lock problem, I should have started a thread on it as that would have been easier to find and more beneficial to others.

So yeah, I could do better and make the information easier to find. You didn't exhaust your resources either though.

So we both have room for improvement .

#19 3 years ago

Remember, you can always search inside the thread by using the box on the top right of the first post.

Good job fixing, great idea to leave a note inside!

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