(Topic ID: 167467)

BSD: Backbox Lighting Mostly Out

By weaverj

7 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 32 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by weaverj
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 7 years ago

just picked this up wednesday night. today, i'm replacing the backbox incandescents with led's. as you can see, it's not going well.

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#2 7 years ago

this is all lamps on test.

i pulled the incandescents with the power off and installed led's in test mode. i never really looked at the bulbs before, so i put incandescents back in and they were out, too. it's not the led's.

#3 7 years ago

never thought of this as being something to check before buying...

#4 7 years ago

Check connectors J115, J120 and J121 for burned pins and connectors. Replace the male pins and female connectors if anything looks toasty. Also check the 6 or 7 fuses down near those connectors by pulling one end of each out and checking continuity with a meter.

#5 7 years ago

led3 on the driver board is flashing irregularly. that's not normal, right?

#6 7 years ago

ugh...

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#7 7 years ago

I've had to adjust the wires on leds a lot but those connectors do look toasty. I would check all fuses.

#9 7 years ago

fuse 106 is dead...

#10 7 years ago

Were the lights working before you put LEDs in? If so, a bad LED bulb can cause a fuse to blow. Check fuses as noted above. Try wiggling the noted connectors on the board. Likely you have a bad solder joint on one of the pins. If you have a 9 v battery with test clips hook them to the first light on the string and see if they light. You should also test for a broken wire or bad connector, using a dmm set for continuity test. One probe on the connector, the other on one of the wires on the socket. Should get a beep if no broken wires. Just a few things to start with.

#11 7 years ago

You'll want to replace at least those connectors and ideally the header pins on the board too. Connectors are cheap and easy to replace, so that's no big deal. Might be able to pull the connectors slightly out and tweak how they connect and sometimes that will get the lights on temporarily.

Or if the fuse was blown and that was the cause, then don't worry about it right now but plan to do that work in the near future.

The LEDs will likely cause some major glare on the playfield though, especially on a dark game like BSD.. I usually keep normal bulbs in the backbox now because of glare caused by bright LEDs.

#12 7 years ago

Connectors and possibly fuses - this is a very simple fix, no need to get bothered by it.

#13 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Were the lights working before you put LEDs in?

i don't think so. never checked though.

#14 7 years ago

replaced fuse 106 and things are better. the newly lighted bulbs flicker in and out a bit.

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#15 7 years ago

Connectors

#16 7 years ago

here's a pic from the other night. yeah, incandescents were definitely jacked before.

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#17 7 years ago

those connectors are f'd and need redone. They where burnt in the dracula i just got too. Common wpc issue id assume

#18 7 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

here's a pic from the other night. yeah, incandescents were definitely jacked before.

Wow yea your missing a bunch of gi on the playfield also. New connectors for sure and may need the driver board pins replaced also.

#19 7 years ago

playfield is fine. that pic was during attract mode.

#20 7 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

playfield is fine. that pic was during attract mode.

You still need to replace both gi connectors bc it will put alot of strain on the driver board .

#21 7 years ago

yeah. so just pull all the wires out and punch into a new connector?

#22 7 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

yeah. so just pull all the wires out and punch into a new connector?

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/ Ed has parts and tools. Size .156

New connectors, and new pins on the board, otherwise your new connectors will burn up fast.

If you haven't worked on a board yet, see if anyone you know can help you.

LTG : )

#23 7 years ago

is 09-50-8111 molex or standard punch down? i don't want molex, do i?

#24 7 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i don't want molex, do i?

Molex is easiest to use and works well.

LTG : )

#26 7 years ago

I just sent my board off to Chris Hibler and he bulletproofed the board. I did the connectors which fixed my same issue except for onestrand in the backbox on my Dirty Harry. Like others above said, the new connectors will continue to burn on you unless you get that board fixed. This is a common issue on the B/W games of this era and can be fixed!

I totally recommend Chris though, he has done a few of my boards and his work rocks and he is a great guy.

#27 7 years ago

Trifurcon pins and a ratcheting crimper. Do it once, do it right, never have to do it again.

#28 7 years ago

i pulled that black wire on the bottom connector, trimmed it, then repunched it. got my backbox lights on. i was excited. after awhile, however, the back third of my playfield gi went out.

this is probably the hardest game i've led'd. removing those damn plastic ball trails underneath the playfield suuucked.

#29 7 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i pulled that black wire on the bottom connector, trimmed it, then repunched it. got my backbox lights on. i was excited. after awhile, however, the back third of my playfield gi went out.
this is probably the hardest game i've led'd. removing those damn plastic ball trails underneath the playfield suuucked.

This is what will continue to happen unless you replace the plugs AND the pins on the PCB.

The GI draws a lot of current EVEN with LEDs fitted.

At least it is an easy fix as the machine is showing you what the fault is.

#30 7 years ago

guys making me work.

#31 7 years ago

Interesting that you don't have this same issue with any of your other games. At least you can learn on this one when the time comes to fix the others.

#32 7 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Interesting that you don't have this same issue with any of your other games. At least you can learn on this one when the time comes to fix the others.

i know, right? the one thing that seems to be a trend for me is replacing the main cabinet speaker. the diaphragm is dry-rotted off the suspension. HS2 first, now BSD. never actually looked at FT or WCS, but the sound is way more level on those so never thought of checking.

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