You need to check the traces themselves. The repairman should have done this if you payed him...

If you have a good digital multimeter remove the board with the burnt traces. Use the continuity test function and test from component pins one on each side of each burnt trace. If you don't get a tone/buzz from each test a trace is bad. "Jumping" the trace means replacing/overlaying a piece of wire to regain the connection.

There are a bunch of Youtube video's on how to do it...

If there was a PUFF OF SMOKE from the DMD controller board, and the DMD stopped working when the smoke came out, I daresay that's the problem. It's quite possible that things are still getting power, but why are there burned traces? Traces don't just decide to burn for no reason! A component connected to said burned traces is failing catastropically, causing the trace to burn. Figure out what's downstream of those burned traces, (depending on what traces are burned, it may or may not be apparent where the problem lies), and start investigating it. If there was that much current going through it, and the problem is on the DMD rather than the controller, there would likely be evidence on the DMD as well. Also, if there was that much current going through a component on the DMD controller, it's safe to say that the component in question is probably zotted as well.

Got any photos?

Check all the fuses in the game to make sure they are the correct amperage. I would lay bets that at least one is overfused. I have yet to buy a used pin with all the correctly rated fuses. Please let us know which ones are wrong, if any, and if you are blowing the correct value fuse. This will help zero in on the problem.

I would solder in a jumper wire if the traces are burnt.

Also look for any other components which are very brown and the circuit board below is very brown.

So the smoke came with the DMD out.

When you moved the pin did you remove and reinstall any connectors?

I suspect, then, that smoke was pouring off that burnt trace during that game too.

I wouldn't go soldering jumper wires in, until you've figured out the root cause. There's no point in replacing a burned trace with a wire before fixing the problem that caused it to burn, unless you want to compare the aroma of burning circuitboard epoxy with that of burning wire insulation*.

You need to get a digital multimeter. It's one of the essential tools to keeping a pinball machine running.

*The burning wire insulation smells worse in the short term, but the burnt epoxy smell hangs around a lot longer. It's like cigarette smoke in that regard.

I have a Wavetek. There are a bunch of good ones out there, Centech, Fluke just to name 2 more. Depends on your budget though, and the features your looking for.

What game is this (did I miss it)? Do you have the wiring schematics? We can get them on line if we have name year and model/serial numbers. I want to know what is plugged into that empty plug socket the burnt trace is connected to. Are any wires burnt or wire covering melted?

Cover those IC chips with something (masking tape or a like) the camera flash can erase them. In your top pic you can see that round dot on the chip? That's a window and how the flash gets into it to erase the chip/EPROM.

Those don't look like burnt traces (from what I can see).

I'll bet it's capacitor electrolyte leakage.

You posted before I finished compossing mine...

You missed my post?

Check those caps. The puff of smoke you saw can easily come from a cap.

Only if it came out the bottom witch is unlikely. The 'X' scored in the top is a relieve point for when they burn up. Those Caps look fine from the top. No swelling, the plastic covering isn't melting back, no brown fuzz around the bottom...

I've seen more caps fail out of the bottom, than burst the x.

...and that's been alot.

Also, what's that dark mark by C30? Need better pics with a macro focus!

Got the schematic for that board? I'd be happy to take a look at the schematic w/regards to this problem, if you could point me to the schematic.

That's gonna be important for figuring this one out. I also suspect something funky is going on with those caps, though..

http://www.ipdb.org/files/2848/Baywatch_Manual.pdf Theres the manual. Whats the number beside the plug? I can't see it in the picture.

Cold solder joint right on the cap pin, and the more I look at the pics the more I think your right Firebaall.

tpn2011, dip a Q-Tip in rubbing alcohol and wipe the traces and see if they clean up.

Oh, nice of Sega to give out a manual that contained board schematics (unlike midway, which had them in a separate manual)

Not so nice of them not to provide a board layout for the board we're looking at! (they've got one for the top board, but not the one that we've got problems with), which appears to be the Babcock DMD board. Can't make out most of the numbers on the schematic, either...

Any burning on the underside of the board? I'd wager there's a burnt trace from the burned area around the caps to the burned trace going to (or passing near) Q4.

I think you might be in a little over your head.

Here's some resources, you should become very familiar with:

http://www.mediafire.com/?059sflkijaroxic

Right now, the best thing for you to do is hire a knowledgable electronics technician if you expect the machine to be working correctly any time soon. Otherwise, read through the documents I linked to, and then post. You'll be better armed to understand what's needed.

At your current skill level, any advice is going to be too dangerous for you to try and use. I'm not being mean about it, just frank. Read the documents, and become the pinball guru!

Did a quick Google search and found this guy. Looks like he knows what he is doing, I dunno. Maybe if you call him and take the damaged board/s to him he will work with you. Worth a shot.

http://www.davesarcade.com/

From the online pinball shops thread.

No problem!

Inside that winrar file, you'll find the much sought after guides by "clay". They are in the folder called "pinrepair.com Repair Manuals Apr 2011".

WINRAR

Yoink! Thanks for posting those pinrepair guides, I've been lookin for those.

I've got a video of Rebuilding and fixing a WMS DMD controller board if that's of any insight. A lot of these systems have similar approaches when it comes to fixing power supply issues and figuring out what components might need replacing.

That cap is not on the controller board....It's on the display glass. That's a big difference in repair.